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Sep 03, 2004, 08:17 PM
Fidler & twidler
empeabee's Avatar

GBx EndBell/shaft fitting.


The fit of the endbell and shaft is VERY tight ( by design - so it doesn't start slipping later in the motors life ).

I stacked up a pile of 3mm washers on the shaft and then used a 3mm nut to pull the bellend onto the shaft - adding washers as required.

Note
I got a bit carried away and pulled the bell about 1mm over the 'lip' of the shaft and had to shorten my bearing tube.

RysiuM sugested some Lithium greese on the thread, and also tapping a long nut with clearance hole to save having a stack of bowed washers left over looking for a home.

Mike
Last edited by empeabee; Sep 03, 2004 at 08:24 PM.
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Sep 04, 2004, 05:41 PM
Registered User

Placing a second row of magnets in a bell.


It is uneasy to glue a second row touching the adjacent magnets of the same
polarity, i.e the bottom edge of the magnets in the second row touching the top edge of the first row.

A simple stick with a magnet glued at its end makes this much easier.

With the "magnetic stick" pick up a magnet and place it in the can, with its
edge touching a same polarity magnet in the first row. The placed magnet
will not be repelled and is easy to adjust with a toothpick.
Apply CA carefully - not to glue the "picked" magnet to the stick magnet.

Place all magnets of the same polarity one after another. Only then unglue the magnet from the stick, and glue it again after you turned it over. Proceed to glue the remaining magnets.

In the second picture the magnet has not yet been glued - but keeps
stationary.
Last edited by Amos; Sep 05, 2004 at 05:19 AM.
Sep 05, 2004, 10:44 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar

Sometimes


Arround my workshop there is on occasion a bit of magnetic dust due to grinding ect' when building or even sometimes checking i use a piece of 3/32"brass tube about 4" long around one end i put a small wad of that sticky black automotive putty and roll it around inside the magnets pushing into the gaps between as well to pick up any unwelcome guests,its quite surprising how much it can absorb. those magnets are so strong they just suck it out of the air. when im happy that a motor is clean i bag them or box them.
Sep 05, 2004, 07:05 PM
CD-ROM Junkie
Art Newland's Avatar

removing insulation


BTW, in addressing the whole "removing the enamel" thing, for soldering the wires when you are done winding, guys are using aspirin to eat off the insulation, because aspirin has acid in it (I suppose). Well... I got to thinking, maybe other acids would work also. I took some soldering flux used for sweating copper plumbing, put a little on a metal surface, sat the wire in the flux, and heated it with a soldering iron. Worked a whole lot better than aspirin, and smelled a lot better too. I was able to solder directly to the wire after. I'd still say use a lot of ventalation.
Sep 05, 2004, 11:39 PM
CD-ROM Junkie
Art Newland's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Newland
BTW, in addressing the whole "removing the enamel" thing, for soldering the wires when you are done winding, guys are using aspirin to eat off the insulation, because aspirin has acid in it (I suppose). Well... I got to thinking, maybe other acids would work also. I took some soldering flux used for sweating copper plumbing, put a little on a metal surface, sat the wire in the flux, and heated it with a soldering iron. Worked a whole lot better than aspirin, and smelled a lot better too. I was able to solder directly to the wire after. I'd still say use a lot of ventalation.
I also found out if you tin your soldering iron well before you do this, it transfers the heat better, and tins the wire at the same time.
Sep 06, 2004, 12:37 AM
vox
vox
Registered User
Here's a good one for holding those bearings in the GB1.1 kit bearing tubes.

I cannot remember the exact size of the tubing, but I found some left over aluminium tubing (bought from a local hobby store) that fits tight (but not too tight) in the GB1.1 kit bearing tubes. I cut the Al-tube shorter than the bearing tube, leaving about 3-4mm either end (for bearings) and now the bearings just drop in and sit there.

With the long GWS shafts, you wouldn't even need to glue the bearings in - they'll be held in by the bell and the e-clip.
Sep 06, 2004, 02:31 AM
Registered User
Here is my cd-rom trick cool tip that is...
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...63#post2599063
Sep 06, 2004, 07:03 AM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Removing insulation using soldering flux:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...3&postcount=82
Sep 06, 2004, 12:14 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar

Braking magnets in half.


First I want to point out, that it's better to use the right size magnets for the job, rather than splitting them to fit. If you can get 5x4x2 or 5x3x2 by the all means use them, instead of breaking 10x4x2 or 10x3x2 in half.

However if you have a whole stack of 10mm magnets (like do), but you need 5mm there is a simple way do do it. "Simple" if you have right tools

1. I use old caliper as a magnets support. Caliper is made out os steel, so magnets "stick" to it without moving. Caliper has a small straight grove in the center, so magnets can break easy.
I place the magnets lined up along the grove, and I mark the center line.

2. A small drill (like 1/16) is placed on the magnets on the center line.

3. All together is pressed on my arbor press. Before I bought the press, I used a vise. But press is much easier to work with. Not much force is needed to break 2mm magnets in half

Do not forget to protect the exposed magnet's surface from the elements. Use paint, glue or whatever is good to seal it of and protecting magnets from "rusting".

RysiuM
Sep 06, 2004, 12:59 PM
Registered User
Here is my picture for my tip on cutting holes on top for the homemade motors..
Sep 06, 2004, 06:28 PM
Registered User
lensrc's Avatar
A quick tip for the insulation problem: Buy solderable wire. I used Beldon, but now get it from an electric motor manufacturers supply company. I gotta buy 10 lbs to get it there, but it is a lot cheaper per pound, and I dont gotta strip the insulation, just use a 750 degree iron.
Sep 06, 2004, 08:43 PM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by iflyrc71
..cutting holes on top for the homemade motors..
I have notice funny thing. My motor with 12 magnets 5x3x2 (about 3mm distance between magnets) works like a centrifugal fan. Magnets work as a fan blades forcing the air between magnets back and out. I noticed that when I run the motor without the prop, and it still made a lot of wind behind it. So cooling holes in the front plate are quite efficient for keeping the magnet's temperature down.

Just another reason for using 2mm thick and 3mm wide magnets

RysiuM
Sep 07, 2004, 09:20 PM
Registered User
Carl's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Art Newland
BTW, in addressing the whole "removing the enamel" thing, for soldering the wires when you are done winding, guys are using aspirin to eat off the insulation, because aspirin has acid in it (I suppose). Well... I got to thinking, maybe other acids would work also. I took some soldering flux used for sweating copper plumbing, put a little on a metal surface, sat the wire in the flux, and heated it with a soldering iron. Worked a whole lot better than aspirin, and smelled a lot better too. I was able to solder directly to the wire after. I'd still say use a lot of ventalation.
If you use any kind of acid to clean the insulation, be sure to clean all of the acid off your work or you will end up with the acid eating your pretty new motor weeks later.

Carl
Sep 14, 2004, 09:22 PM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar

Tip for drilling sheetmetal


This may help those wanting to drill thin metal drums,air holes ect' https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...4&postcount=12
Sep 14, 2004, 09:32 PM
Registered User
lensrc's Avatar
Commonly known as "Bullet Bits"


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