(Re)winding and building motors, tips & tricks, checks & tests - Page 13 - RC Groups
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This thread is privately moderated by Ron van Sommeren, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
May 01, 2006, 03:57 AM
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Aug 27, 2006, 08:54 PM
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manuel v's Avatar
Photos of a method already mentioned to remove magnets of the bell.
Sep 20, 2006, 12:40 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
I did a bit of cleaning up in this thread. Removed unanswered questions, thank you's, compliments and links gone bad.

Vriendelijke groeten Ron
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Oct 22, 2006, 12:44 AM
Registered User
Here are a couple of my tips for motor building.

1) I use a tapered punch clamped in a vise to hold my stator while I wind it.

2) I made a beeper from a pizzo buzzer and a 9V battery as an instant short tester. You can attach it to the start tail of your wind and ground it to your vise or metalic stator post. It will sound off when a wire is nicked.

3) I use old tooth brushes cut down to various shapes for pushing/pressing windings.

4) Some old dental tools work very well for winding too.

5) In a pinch you can use black iron pipe from a hardware store turned to the proper dimensions for flux wrings.
Oct 28, 2006, 05:30 PM
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manuel v's Avatar
Very useful to clear the C- clip. fact of a flat screw driver. Put a magnet of the opposite side so that it receives the C- clip.
Oct 28, 2006, 07:41 PM
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I have two sets of these. They have 3.5mm plugs on one end. it enables me to hook up any motor (see if it runs.. see which way it turns ect) without soldering to the motor's leads.. One set is for small motors.. One set is made from a cut up connection block from a large audio speaker. Saves me lots of time I use them all the time..
Nov 01, 2006, 01:51 AM
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manuel v's Avatar

Thanks for tip. this is a clone of your idea.

Manuel V.
Nov 01, 2006, 08:17 AM
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olmod's Avatar

scource for flux ring materials

Originally Posted by mlh1961
The fork tube that attaches the forks to the frame, is a good one, most are a tad over 1 inch OD, and generally do not have a seam due to the gooseneck clamping inside the tube. Alot of the down tubes and main back tubes work, along with the seat posts. You can even use the bearing carrier where the pedals attach, and the head post if you need a larger ring.

You can generally find bikes for little or no money, either as junk or at a yard sale for a couple of bucks.

Dec 15, 2006, 02:18 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
When in a very tight winding situation, round the top of the wire to remove the burr. This will prevent it from scratching the insulation (shorts ).
Or, as Don (bz1mcr) put it:
Dull the end of the wire when sewing the last turns in.
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Dec 31, 2006 at 08:04 AM.
Dec 30, 2006, 09:30 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by bz1mcr
Site says it is retailed by NAPA and Murry's auto stores, that should pretty well cover the USA.

Is this the product that desolves CA?
"PB Penetrating Catalyst-Quickly breaks loose the surface tension of frozen parts and protects against further rust and corrosion."

If you need to disolve ca just use acetone in a small jar. It works slick and is cheap
Jan 29, 2007, 01:50 PM
Lee's Avatar
We filmed an experienced winder when he did a class for our club. Maybe it can help someone.


I also made a buzzer that attaches for the entire winding and alarms at the slightest short. I found a buzzer at Radio Shack that will handle the voltage of a 3 cell lipo and put a plug so I can just plug in one of the lipos I seem to have laying around. I hook one end of the buzzer lead to the wire being wound and the other to a bolt on which I mount the motor. I can wind accurately the first attempt almost every time.

I ground the end of a 3/8" X 3" bolt so it gently screws securely into the stator and will hold it while I wind. I covered it with electrical tape so I don't accidentally touch my alligator clips together getting false alarms.

We are winding hot 20 mm motors with 8 winds of 22 gauge wire for a ballistic 36 wing we fly. We have had speeds in excess of 80 mph on an outrunner single and higher than 100 mph on a double. I don't think outrunners were designed to do this but it sure is fun when they do.

Last edited by Lee; Aug 20, 2007 at 07:30 PM.
Jan 29, 2007, 09:16 PM
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olmod's Avatar
Here is an idea that came to me contemplating sharp edges stators causing shorts,take the pack coat the face with hard setting epoxy and dip into a tray of miro balloons ,the micro's overlap the sharp edges ,it may take a couple of coats any overflow can be trimmed flush with the inside with a *11 blade.
Feb 17, 2007, 12:26 PM
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lostrider's Avatar
Save weight on cdrom motor:
replace shaft with a stylus pen.
Apr 05, 2007, 02:03 PM
Registered User
Best tool i have found to pack windings is a tooth broken off a plastic fork. Jams thing more flatly than a bamboo skewer and is also wedge shaped. Method of discovery... forgot to bring skewer to work when I was going to wind a motor during break... and cheaper that CF flat rod.
Apr 06, 2007, 07:56 AM
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bmutlugil's Avatar
A broken plastic prop blade can be shaped as desired and used for this purpose, it can also be shaped into an epoxy glue spreader, etc. The epoxy can be removed later on.

I have one such blade I have been using for years - certainly much longer than the broken prop

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