(Re)winding and building motors, tips & tricks, checks & tests - Page 10 - RC Groups
Thread Tools
This thread is privately moderated by Ron van Sommeren, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Apr 16, 2005, 01:39 AM
Why aren't you out flyin?
colbyweb's Avatar
I found a great way to strip the enamel off magnet wire. Use a hack saw blade with the wire between your thumb and the blade. Simply press gently and pull the wire through. Several passes and it's done. My blade is fine toothed, I do not know how a coarser tooth would work.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Apr 16, 2005, 04:33 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar
Anyone tried one of these ?? http://www.mytoolstore.com/ideal/ide11-18.html
Apr 16, 2005, 10:40 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar

not practical

Originally Posted by die fliedermaus
Try laying the wire on an aspirin and heating it with a soldering iron.
Stinky smoke but it removes the insulation!
the way i build ,i use a piece of fibre glass circuit board drlled with a hole saw and engraved with a dremel with holes for all the wires to poke through,after its glued to the bearing tube, i nip the wires off to within 1.5 mm of the circuit board then remove the enamel and flatten down and solder, see earlier post on my winding jig.
May 27, 2005, 02:18 AM
Registered User
grumman5277's Avatar

not sure if this has been mentioned

I just recently tried to apply various compounds to the stator for insulation.
I just decided to try it as a long shot but it worked perfectly. First I applied
a nice coat of finger nail polish (hope she doesnt find out) and once dried
i went over the polish with thick CA. The finger nail polish helps keep the CA from going all over and looks just like a stator with an epoxy coating.
May 27, 2005, 02:44 AM
Why not Delta?
rysium's Avatar
Originally Posted by grumman5277
and once dried
i went over the polish with thick CA.
CA is known to eat magnet wire's insulation over time. I would use only odorless (foam friendly) CA if it must be CA.
Why not do this with epoxy? 5minutes can be hard within less than hour. And for sure will be safe for wire.

May 27, 2005, 03:32 AM
Registered User
grumman5277's Avatar


Was never good at mixing epoxy. I did use the odorless thick CA. I dont think
this will harm the enamel on the wire though. The motor is in a gear box and
just gets warm . This is just during 5min static loads. Im trying to get about
16+ Oz out of this.

double 19mm 24 mag 6 pole 10 turn 26ga.
Realy unwinds with the gearing.
Swinging an 8x4.3 GWS at about 4amps. on 2 cells
going to go up a few sizes on the prop.
May 27, 2005, 12:12 PM
Registered User
Fishnut's Avatar
Don't know if this one has been mentioned, but I like to test my outrunners' magnets from time to time by putting a small, flat-blade screwdriver against each one. Once in a while, one magnet will have almost no attraction, i.e., it's been killed, prolly by overheating.

Last edited by Fishnut; May 27, 2005 at 12:38 PM.
May 30, 2005, 08:21 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar

Amp and resistance measurements

here are a couple of links that some may find usefull.
Last edited by olmod; Sep 28, 2006 at 08:25 PM. Reason: dead link
May 31, 2005, 10:08 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Stator insulation discussion:
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; May 31, 2005 at 10:14 PM.
Jun 02, 2005, 06:34 PM
homo ludens modellisticus
Ron van Sommeren's Avatar
Most, if not all, motor kit suppliers have manuals on their sites, very useful e.g.
www.brushless.com (forum too)
Very good lrk manuals (different winding diagrams from cd-rom)
www.torcman.de -> English
Jun 26, 2005, 10:29 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar

EZ stick mount

Cut a peice of light gauge allum' sheet drill ,debur and then roll fold as per drawing ,place over bearing tube onto stick mount clamp and drill cross holes and fasten with favourite screws bolts whatever,the lastly add a couple of dollops of epoxy in the holes on the top and let cure. PS those plastic nuts and bolts make good fasteners to the stick in a prang they can break away and save extra damage to your motor.
Jun 26, 2005, 12:51 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar

EZ CF rod mount


I came up with this so that the up/down angle could be adjusted for the Hydrofoam boat?, but it could easily be adapted to any CF rod setup. Stack drill and stack sand the 2 "A" pieces and go to town! A single ty-rap will hold the motor in place.

Jun 27, 2005, 11:57 AM
Registered User
button's Avatar
I needed just a few thousandths of an inch more clearance between my stator and bell, and compressing the windings was not a practical option with my motor. So, I used a permanent flat file similar to the "Permagrit" variety that some of you may have to grind a brass thrust washer down to about 1/3 of its original thickness. I then placed it on the shaft with the ground end facing the bell, and the bevelled end toward the bearing. Results after reassembling the motor and testing it: no more bell/wire rubbing, and no loss in efficiency (which is what I got by "overspacing" with a full sized washer).
Jun 27, 2005, 12:23 PM
Dismembered Member...
arx_n_sparx's Avatar
Like these, Button? http://www.strongrcmotors.com/thrust_washers.htm


Thread Tools