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Old Jul 14, 2005, 02:06 AM
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Duh
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I use a pair of side cutting fingernail clippers to cut the magnet wire, makes a very clean cut and will trim wires that have been soldered together as well.

Jason
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Old Jul 17, 2005, 04:33 AM
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Useing old scalpel blades to get the enamel off your winding wire


Put a fine cutoff wheel in your dremel, and grind fine notches in the blunt side of your old scalpel blade. When grinding tilt the blade a bit so the grount surface is less than 90deg in relation the side of the blade.

When useing it for scraping, place notch over wire to be scraped,tilt blade slightly to the right and pull wire through with the left hand. It is good to burn the enamel with a match or a little gas torch before useing this methode.

I place the end of the wire for scraping on the edge of the workbench if the wire is already wound on the stator, so the wire gets forced through that littel notch and cleans up very nicely.

This is an awful lot of writing for such a simple action. But a good solder joint is most important for the performance of you motor.
Old Jul 17, 2005, 01:52 PM
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Why not Delta?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroNut45
Put a fine cutoff wheel in your dremel, and grind fine notches in the blunt side of your old scalpel blade. When grinding tilt the blade a bit so the grount surface is less than 90deg in relation the side of the blade.
Please get the same wheel and blunt the sharp side of the blade. Dull blades are still sharp to easy cut through skin.

RysiuM
Old Jul 17, 2005, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rysium
Please get the same wheel and blunt the sharp side of the blade. Dull blades are still sharp to easy cut through skin.

RysiuM
There were two points why I like my way.
1. The keen edge is curved, less scraping.
2. when scraping (moving the blade instead of wire) you only get shavings of the wire, not the bench.
Why make things simple if you can make it complicated.
Old Jul 17, 2005, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroNut45
There were two points why I like my way.
1. The keen edge is curved, less scraping.
2. when scraping (moving the blade instead of wire) you only get shavings of the wire, not the bench.
Why make things simple if you can make it complicated.
No, you didn't understand. There is no 'my way', or 'your way'. Your way and
my way is the same.
What I'm saying the other side of the knife (the one used to cut stuff) is very sharp, so by accident you can easy cut yourself. 'My way' means all that you wrote PLUS make the other side of blade dull for safety reasons.

RysiuM
Old Jul 20, 2005, 01:07 PM
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Here is a good tip, I accidentally came across last nite.

If you need a short 3mm shaft for the GB cans (with optionall set screw hub from Strongrcmotors.com), then a MPI replacement shaft works great. It already has a machined groove for the circlip and had a machined spot that is flattened as well
Old Jul 20, 2005, 01:17 PM
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Best technique I've found for removing wire coating: ( I don't like scrapping wires...)

Use a bit of zinc flux. simply dab a very small amount onto your wire and submerge this into a glob of hot solder. Strips wire and tins it at the same time. Just don't drip any of it on your nice new windings

http://cheapbatterypacks.com/main.as...8517&pgid=misc (zinc flux, near bottom of page)

Its fast, and removes every bit of the coating and you can visually inspect that the wire is tinned.
Old Jul 21, 2005, 09:24 AM
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homo ludens modellisticus
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Never ever connect a brushless motor (whether in- our outrunner) directly to the battery, your motor will burn! Brushless motors MUST be operated with a brushless controller!

edit: removed stupid error
Last edited by Ron van Sommeren; Jul 21, 2005 at 06:23 PM.
Old Jul 21, 2005, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bz1mcr
Klong66,
MPI replacement shaft works great? Can you provide a link or picture?
Part no:

ACC3966-5 Shaft w/ E-clip for ACC3966, ACC3937

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-99.html

Turns out that the tail end of the shaft with the groove sticks out quite a bit. But i really do like the nice machined flat spot. This is where the gear with allen set screw would normally lock down. Picture of motor will be posted soon.
Old Aug 19, 2005, 02:21 PM
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Newby no more!
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I get lots of hookup wire scraps from old CPU power supplies. The wire are multi-colored.

1. These leads make great motor leads.
2. Strip the wires the sleeves make good insulators for the motor leads.
3. Standardize the color to the ESC and Windings for no guess hookup for motor direction. For example white phase 1(A), black phase 2(B), red phase 3(C) on my CC Phoenix 10 always at a glance gives CCW rotation.
Last edited by beaver newby; Aug 19, 2005 at 05:44 PM. Reason: sp corrections
Old Sep 04, 2005, 03:01 PM
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A broken APC "E" type prop makes a good, stiff tool to push wire in between and against the stator teeth. Very thin on its trailing edge with a semi-flat side and a curved side. Cut and sand back from the tip until you have what you need.
Old Sep 05, 2005, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colbyweb
Hasn't anyone figured out how to make a winder yet? Even if it was manually powered I would like to make one. I just can't figure out how to make it work.
-Rick
Here is a manual winder that works great for me. If someone figures out how to replace busy fingers I'm all for it

This one is similar to others shown in these threads but with a digital counter that REALLY helps keep track of your winds.

Haven't done the file upload thing before. The file was a bit too large for one file so I broke it down into two files. I hope they show up in this message!

Good Luck,
Jim
Old Sep 05, 2005, 09:34 AM
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Good Better Best quest.
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You may notice


in my origonal design posts 22 and 23 the hanging forcepts ,i use a piece of folded felt around the wire,this acts as a clutch as well as allowing me to take my hands away from the winding jig and stops any slackening of the wire ,very handy when you are called away it is especially good on wires awg 20 down to awg 36awg, by holding the forcepts up close to the felt a lot of wear and tear on the fingers is removed,the ratchet built into the handles are adjusted to give the best tension required for the wire,and because you dont lose sight of the way the wire is meeting the stator you can do some nice neat winds. cheers, Lez.
Old Sep 05, 2005, 11:07 PM
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ok


after mounting the stator with bearing tube fitted its just a matter of twisting the end of the wire around a screw i have placed as an anchor point on the wooden frame,make sure the counter is turned back to zero and thread the wire into the first slot with your right hand holding the forcepts/haemostats,the left hand rotates the wheel on the left ,pushing the top edge away from you while you lay down the first 3 turns then with a chisel shaped knitting needle i slide the windings accross towards the hub then lay down more winds stopping occasionly to do any adjustments to the spacing till the required turns are completed, undo the start wire on the anchor point ,undo the locking screw so the stator can be rotated and skipping 2 teeth to the next tooth clockwise looking at the rear bearing tube side ,reset your counter and your off winding again, from this point on i think you should pick it up pretty quickly cheers. Lez.
Old Nov 13, 2005, 12:13 AM
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Tied to the whipping post
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I have had a motor pull out of one of these twice! Second time resulted in the need for a rewind. I had it very tight. I would suggest roughing it up a bit or some locktite.

Mike


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