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May 01, 2017, 01:25 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by D Dale
I agree.... seems wrong that the 5 volt LED is out but you detect 5 volts.

The other thing is I always have to have the battery connected and power going to the FC to be able to connect to the computer!
If you do have power connected and connected to the computer and you are reading some of the settings, this is might indicate you are not getting a full 5 volts.

The other question is WHY are you using a separate 5 volt BEC for the radio rx unit? the 3 wire cable between the FC and RX will provide 5 volts to the RX unit. Adding a 5 volt BEC for the RX is just adding another failure point to the craft!
I would purchase a whole new FC kit... I would not TRUST any of the components now that you let the MAGIC blue smoke out!!

Also I purchased a new battery way back when... and they soldered the wires to the wrong side of the plug... when I tried to charge the battery, the charger told me I connected it up wrong... 5 minutes scratching my head, I saw the red and black wires were not matching... so from then on I use a volt meter and check new batteries when I get them!!!

Yes I do try to power FC with suspect PMU and another universal bec, and still nothing except last settings and active gyro/acc figures showing on GUI. Just for gp, I will do a test for voltage when connected to FC.

I am using a separate bec for rx to have the kill switch feature you use. A separate bec is required correct?

also i specifically remember triple checking batt polarity before connecting to quad
and it had be through a charge cycle anyway, the charger would have alarmed if the polarity was crossed

A clue, but still confuses me, is that when I connected the batt, the connector slightly welded together, and before I could get it apart the shorting stopped. What ever caused the short had burned out and the rest of the system was being supplied with 12V normally, with ESCs' beeping away with no signal.

yeah, the magic smoke is hard to get back in once released isn't it!?
i would just like to salvage what is good and what is not if I can, and maybe find out what caused the short

the pinch in the pos. ESC wire, I am pretty sure was there before hand, and is clean, shows no signs of arcing
and i also remember that the 5V LED indicator on PMU was not lighting up but functioning prior




Quote:
Originally Posted by Tower669
Also, as someone else stated,there aren't any lights on the fc... (that you can see with the covers on anyway). And as Dale states,at this point trust is an issue.

sorry for the confusion, I will try and be more specific.
What i meant by not lighting up, that is with all components connected, but no lights from LED at all


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tower669
I remove all hot wires from all Rx connections as the pmu takes care of that anyway. (Just in case)
at this point i have removed the ZYX kit and have it on bench
I will fart around a little more today testing the PMU

What gets me is that i have still not figured out what caused the short
this is why I am doing a revamp of the whole FC and power system
I never really liked the idea of frame integrated PDB, and should have done it this way from the git go.
I build all my stuff all durable/reliable as I can and stay away from combo components when possible
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May 01, 2017, 01:46 PM
Obi Wan Macaroni
Well, I just had a few minutes to test out my Stretch BumbleBee rig with the updated Yaw gains, and it was near perfect. I would say that what little yaw wag was there (barely perceptible), that there was none. It was more likely just adjusting to the mild winds that are blowing today. Only odd thing is that the ESC on the aft/starboard arm was quite warm to the touch. Not hot, but very warm. The others were all barely warm, and the motors were all barely warm, as well. Possibly a bad ESC.

I should also note that I was flying underweight, with a smaller 5000 mAh 4S battery, instead of the 16000 mAh batteries it has been modified to fly with. The original BumbleBee is designed to fly with a 2200 mAh - 5000 mAh 3S batery. I've mounted stretch arms, bringing it from a 500mm wheelbase to about 780mm, and mounted MultiStar 2814-700kv motors, instead of the motorthat came with it. I found the original motors to be sufficient, but the proprietary propellers to be sub-standard in quality. So I mounted some different motor mounts, with these MultiStar power plants. This one is my long range flyer, good for about 20-25 minutes of flight time, with the 14x4.8 wooden propellers. It's also mounted with a 2W VTx, and a custom, Ardiuno driven light show, and light up, bloodshot eyes. The first pic shows it with the upgraded motors I originally tried, but later discarded, and they were not powerful enough for what I was trying to achieve.

I sliced two carpenter bees in half, however, when they came too close to the TimberŪ props I have mounted on this aircraft. I hate to kill bees, especially bees who pollinate. Carpenter bees are very large bees, who bore into wood planks in this area, and many others. They are often solitary. They are pollinators of flowers, and are mostly black. You've probably seen them, and wondered what they are, or simply thought that they were bumblebees.

Wait...I just realized the significance of this. A Stretch BumbleBee, killing bumble bees...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carpenter_bee
Last edited by NakedHoof; May 01, 2017 at 02:05 PM.
May 01, 2017, 02:11 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
the flite noise seems to attract every other thing that flys lol!

my F450 was dive bombed by an owl once, and he took out a prop
but I bet his toes weren't feeling too swift after that
May 01, 2017, 02:19 PM
Obi Wan Macaroni
I'd wager that one of these wooden props would have maimed an owl.

Quote:
Originally Posted by psychlic
the flite noise seems to attract every other thing that flys lol!

my F450 was dive bombed by an owl once, and he took out a prop
but I bet his toes weren't feeling too swift after that
May 01, 2017, 02:48 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
yeah, who knows (frp props)
it was dusk and i was flying around under the trees, and I guess he was pissed I was disturbing his hunting and scaring the mice off.
i actually caught it with on vid with my helmet cam
It just looks like a dark spot hitting the top of quad and bouncing off, and it was gone all in an instant. It was about 15-20ft up and at first I thought I hit a power line. The quad struggled to stay airborne like a wounded bird, with one half of a prop gone, and took a soft landing in the spongy st.augustine grass, lucky for me...............and lucky for the owl (only thing I can think of it being) that they were not carbon props, or else i may have found some severed toes!
I went back again next day about the same time, and no more attacks
poor owl, I feel bad for the guy, but it was a park.............man & wildlife collide

One of the best flying experiences I've had was flying a fast/modified 450 heli at low altitude, just above the ground around and around in a baseball field racing these little dare-devil racer birds with pointy wings. MAN, those little suckers are master flyers and fast. They put me to shame but still had sport of racing me in the grass field. That was a blast!.............owls,hawks,crows, jays, seagulls, etc, had them all with helis and multis. Birds are fun to fly with if you can avoid their attacks and not dice one up!
Last edited by psychlic; May 01, 2017 at 03:13 PM.
May 01, 2017, 03:58 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
Just did a re-test of FC with PMU connected and check voltage off FC rail, steady 5.17V
but still no response from LED

Fc is dead it would seem, RIP

I'm thinking the other parts are ok
May 01, 2017, 04:05 PM
Loki's Minion
Tower669's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychlic
Just did a re-test of FC with PMU connected and check voltage off FC rail, steady 5.17V
but still no response from LED

Fc is dead it would seem, RIP

I'm thinking the other parts are ok
Mabye just the LED is dead. ..
Latest blog entry: Vuzix iWear
May 01, 2017, 04:06 PM
Loki's Minion
Tower669's Avatar
Pull off props and try to arm motors.
Latest blog entry: Vuzix iWear
May 01, 2017, 04:27 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
yeah, i could check that
but since there is no communication or stick motion on GUI i doubt it will arm, but it would be worth a try.
I am already going in with a Naza on the 550, so I will have to do a bench test later
May 01, 2017, 04:45 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
hhmmm, on fleaBay
a Tarot ZYX-M kit in USA is about $115-125
a DJI Naza-Lite kit (which can be hacked to V2) w/Upgrade M8N puck in USA, is under $74
and even a V2 kit is still less than the ZYX

I like the Tarot, but DJI is giving them a run for their money
May 01, 2017, 04:53 PM
Obi Wan Macaroni
As long as you don't need an Octo, then NAZA is a possible choice. Of course, I wouldn't choose a NAZA if it won't do a Y6 config. Because everyone knows how much I love the Y6! Of course, the NAZA V2 has been discontinued, AFAIK. The new controller is the N3, I believe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by psychlic
hhmmm, on fleaBay
a Tarot ZYX-M kit in USA is about $115-125
a DJI Naza-Lite kit (which can be hacked to V2) w/Upgrade M8N puck in USA, is under $74
and even a V2 kit is still less than the ZYX

I like the Tarot, but DJI is giving them a run for their money
May 01, 2017, 05:08 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
an N3 is about $450 from china, yikes! but still no obstacle sensors
for that kind of money I'll wait when they come out with the FC kit they have on the P4 with sensors
just a matter of time
May 01, 2017, 05:11 PM
Zero Cash Money
Quote:
Originally Posted by psychlic
hhmmm, on fleaBay
a Tarot ZYX-M kit in USA is about $115-125
a DJI Naza-Lite kit (which can be hacked to V2) w/Upgrade M8N puck in USA, is under $74
and even a V2 kit is still less than the ZYX

I like the Tarot, but DJI is giving them a run for their money
The only problem with those Lite Kit hacked is, technically it is a Naza V1.... which takes 2 to 4 minutes to warm up before you can fly, the other thing is, you do not get the PMU that has a CanBus port so you can not add the Naza OSD or any other CanBus accessories!!!

So the $74 still needs a OSD aftermarket (Chinese) OSD then the stuff becomes kinda messy!!! that is $30 to $50

A true Naza V2 I see is $139 free shipping then another $30 to $50 for OSD unit

There is also a DJI A2 with Mark II OSD, ground station 2.4ghz kit for $479 shipped!!!
May 01, 2017, 05:24 PM
want to fly the big one please
psychlic's Avatar
still $74 a good price is you don't need the bells and whistles, just basic auto-pilot
The Lites with the hack are what I use, and one with an M8N puck warms up in about a minute and half


if I'm going to spend for a V2, then i would probably just get another ZYX
but under $75 with upgrade puck is good enough for my needs at the moment
like I said, i'm saving my dough for the FCs' down the road soon to come with obstacle avoidance
May 01, 2017, 05:38 PM
Obi Wan Macaroni
I would buy the A2. Almost did, in fact. Then I discovered that in order to get all of the follow-me, waypoints, and other goodies, you also needed the LightBridge V2. I had both the A2, and the LightBridge (what I thought was the LB2, but it was not) in my cart at Newegg (they gave me a nice line of credit). I was looking at about $1600 for both, but cancelled the order when I found out that the LB was the V1, NOT the V2. Too bad. Instead I bought a couple of pro lenses for my Lumix 4K professional video camera. The nicer of the two, the 12mm F1.4 baby, was $1300, all by itself! The most I've ever paid for a lens, and it also cost more than the camera! It is, however, sublime. It is such a fine piece of glass, I do not regret it for a moment.


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