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Apr 28, 2015, 11:33 AM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP

CMP 65" Cessna 182

This one, of course.

No thread on this one anywhere? I just pulled the trigger and I know it's been around a while. Surprised I can't find anything on it. It's one of the better-looking Cessna 182 ARFs out there, and if it looks and flies half as good as my CMP PA-28 I'll be very happy with it.

So, if there's no thread, this will become my build thread on it. If there is a thread, would someone kindly point me in the right direction?
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Apr 29, 2015, 08:31 PM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP
I got mine today. I was surprised (not sure if it's disappointment or pleasure just yet) that it wasn't in the color scheme shown above, it's in the traditional Cessna white/red/black color scheme, which I think I'm fine with as that's still a highly attractive color scheme as far as I'm concerned.

Also, it seems to have been updated with the more scale forward-angling, lower-profile mains.

Equally surprisingly, it's not a built-up balsa airframe like I was expecting. It's fiberglass! And it's beautifully-molded fiberglass! Lots of niely molded in details (doors and the likes) and the control surfaces are all beautifully ribbed with glued in plastic strips to emulate the corrugated metal, instead of it being printed-on, which is the case with the Cherokee Arrow.

There's no battery hatch. Which means the wing has to come off for battery changes. If it were a balsa ship I'd have no problem cutting out a hatch, but I've got no experience with fiberglass work and I'd rather not chop up the glass. Soooo...

Looks like I'm taking the wing off for battery swaps.

Taking the wing off wouldn't be bad. It's only 4 screws (Two to fuselage, 2 to struts) so that's probably the route I'll go.

Thinking a G46 on 5S for power.

Wing is a 3-piece wing. Center section and the two outer panels that are removable for transportation. Kinda' moot since I'll have to pull the wing off for battery changes, but a cool feature none the less.

Manual is standard CMP drawings that are easily followed if not a little on the vague side, but nothing looks daunting and everything's understandable.

This should be a fun build!

Running parts list:

670kv G46
5s 4000 packs
An ESC (Probably 70-amp with external BEC)
6 servos--maybe 7 if I use one specifically for the nose gear to avoid the linkage.
Robart 654 nose gear
Better-quality 2.75" main, 2.5" nose wheels.
1/6th scale pilot bust.
Spinner (2.5"?)
Prop (13x8.5E MA most likely)
LEDs? Mmm...LEDs...

This should actually be a simpler build than the Cherokee, since I don't have the retracts to worry about. Parts list is looking nice and short.

Some pictures.


Apr 29, 2015, 09:53 PM
Registered User
As a bona fide Cessna lover, I carefully considered this CMP Cessna but passed on it for several reasons. First and foremost: the fiberglass fuselage precludes any reasonable battery access. I fly only electric and the wing removal for battery access is just not acceptable to me.

The plane is heavy for its size, and becomes even heavier because of the required nose weight to achieve balance. It has a reputation for being tail heavy, probably due to the weight of the fiberglass fuselage. Also, I do not care for the fiberglass wingtips glued onto the balsa wings. It's usually very difficult to get a nice fit and finish on these.

I'm certainly not trying to disparage the plane. The general proportions are close to correct and the fiberglass fuselage is a beautiful piece of work - I've seen the plane in person.

After considering all the Cessna 172/182 options in this 1600 mm size class (there really aren't very many), I bought the Phoenix 182 and I'm currently assembling it. I've started a thread on it in this section. Like all models, it is not perfect and has some issues, too.

I'm looking forward to following your assembly thread here. Best of luck with it!

Apr 29, 2015, 10:21 PM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks for the input, Dave.

I can believe it being tail heavy. The Cherokee Arrow was too. I resolved that by flying with a dedicated RX pack and I'll probably do the same with this and mount it as far forward as possible.

I'm also planning on using the Robart nose gear which I can imagine being quite a bit heavier than the stock wire nose gear.

If push comes to shove I'll also use a Trueturn spinner and 3-bladed prop. That should help shift some weight forward.

To save a bit of weight all around I'll probably fly it without the wheelpants. I fly off a dry lake that can be a bit bumpy at times so the wheelpants might be more trouble than they're worth. I also prefer the utilitarian look without them.
Apr 29, 2015, 10:32 PM
Registered User
Should be pretty much a straightforward build. And a fun plane when completed. Be sure to post some progress pictures and comments as you go along.

Nothing wrong with a 172/182 w/o wheel pants. Lots of full scale ones end up that way, too.
Apr 29, 2015, 10:56 PM
Fly and let Fly!
Cocg's Avatar
Whoa..! Dang another thread to subscribe to..! Congrads Rampage.. Cool.. Will follow..
Dec 09, 2015, 12:35 PM
Registered User
This Plane I can not find Can provide me a message ?
Dec 13, 2015, 10:02 PM
Ldm's Avatar
I would cut one of the doors, and add hinges and rare earth magnets to hold the door shut.
This process would allow for easy access to the battery and give you a simple scale door .
Dec 15, 2015, 08:35 PM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP
Originally Posted by Ldm
I would cut one of the doors, and add hinges and rare earth magnets to hold the door shut.
This process would allow for easy access to the battery and give you a simple scale door .
I thought about that, but it'd also cut the stiffeners that run the length of the fuselage.

That and I'm not really sure it would give you access far enough forward. Apparently she's pretty tail heavy.
Jan 19, 2016, 02:36 PM
emckay7067's Avatar
I have this kit and am starting work on it now. I got it from Value Hobby. It looks to be a really good kit.

On the real Cessna, the nose gear has a forward rake on it. This kit has it mounted straight down with no coil spring, so this gear will not take a grass field very well without some sort of mod.

As to the battery access, my kit shows a removable front windshield.
Jan 23, 2016, 03:25 PM
emckay7067's Avatar

Motor Alignment

I decided that the motor and nose gear should be dealt with before starting on anything else in this kit. The reason being is that once you start putting the tail feathers on, damaging them is easier when working with the motor etc.

THE INSTRUCTIONS ARE WRONG IN SOME PLACES. Be sure to fit check things before drilling holes.

You would think that the hole in the wood motor box used for the electric motor would be centered around the hole in the firewall. It isn't, and the instructions don't say a thing about the motor box alignment.

To get the motor prop shaft centered in the cowlings prop shaft opening, the hole in the motor box and the hole in the firewall should line up evenly at the top. That is, the motor box should be lower than be even with the hole in the firewall. At lest that the way mine lined up. Check this with the cowling fit in place.

Also, the distance given in the instructions from the firewall to the front of the motor thrust washer is not correct. Once I got the parts put together, the distance from the firewall to the front of the motor thrust washer is 5 & 7/8 inches. Not the three-something inches the instructions called for. Again, check with the cowling in place.
Mar 02, 2016, 01:57 AM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP
I finally got started on mine. A few guys at my fiend are also doing Cessna 182s. One guy's restoring an old airframe built from a Pica kit. Another's got a Great Planes he's putting together. So I figured the time was now.

I'll keep my thread separate from emckay's because he's doing an excellent build and I don't want to clutter up his build log. That and there are some significant differences between the CMP and the Value Hobby ARFs, even if they are mostly similar.

Thanks to emckay, I was able to sort out a mostly-acceptable battery hatch through the front windshield. I had to do a little trimming but it worked out. Front windshield pivots upwards on 3 plastic hinges. Battery goes in through the windshield and slides forward up to the firewall. I'm thinking about leaving the front left window out to make it a bit easier to get everything connected.

Here's what I've got so far.

The battery goes in and pushes all the way forward to the firewall. I put some foam padding on the inside of the firewall and built a tray for the battery to properly sit on so I can strap it down.

So far so good! I like this because this plane is known to need significant weight and this allows me to push much of the battery's weight as far forward as possible.

It's also a pretty beefy battery.

I'm intending to go with a low-kv-high-voltage setup. I'll be flying Zippy Compact 6S 4000 25c packs with an EFlite 80-amp ESC and, most likely, a 420kv Turnigy G46 with a 14x7 (or 13x8 3-blade) prop. This is said (by people who run this motor on 6S) to give around 950 watts at 45-50 amps. That should put me well above the 100-watt-per-pound category for this type of airplane.

I'm probably going to use a Great Planes adjustable motor mount. I've used one in the past and liked it. So it should work out well in this case.

Also, I got a picture with the cowl on. I was surprised at how well the cowl lined up with the stripes. It's nearly perfect.

Since there are previsions for LEDs in the cowl and wing tips, I'll likely be trying out LEDs for the first time too. At least 2 in the cowl and one in each wing tip.
Last edited by Rampage; Mar 02, 2016 at 02:03 AM.
Mar 20, 2016, 02:31 AM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP
Got the motor and landing gear in mine. Used the Robart as planned but had to cut it a bit to fit. I really don't understand what makes it worth $80.00 but hey, it looks good on the plane.

Used a small block of wood to give the nose gear a bit of forward rake like the full scale.

Wheels are 2.75" Dubros on the mains, 2.5" Dubro on the nose.
Mar 20, 2016, 03:08 PM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP
So for the wing/fuse mount, 2 aluminum pins are provided. The manual shows to coat these half in epoxy and shove them into the holes provided at the leading edge of the wing center section.

Problem is those holes are way, way too shallow.

Thinking I should just drill them out to fit, but the manual's very vague when it comes to drilling things out.
Mar 29, 2016, 01:20 AM
Rampage's Avatar
Thread OP
Got the wing put together and on the plane.

I really like the 3 piece wing but I'm seriously considering gluing the outer panels to the center piece. Even with the struts there's a bit of play in the wings. The method they use to attach the outer panels to the inner panels has the spar, an anti-rotation pin back near the trailing edge, and a sheetmetal bracket that you run a screw down into. It does allow for a little bit of play near the trailing edge even with the struts on.

I still haven't put the radio or servos in yet. Maybe a project for the rest of the week. I also need to start getting the LEDs together.

Also, the mains are really springy and cool. This is going to be a touch-and-go queen I have a feeling.
Last edited by Rampage; Mar 29, 2016 at 01:27 AM.

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