FlySky / Turnigy iA6 (and iA6B) voltage telemetry mod - Page 3 - RC Groups
Shop our Airplanes Products Drone Products Sales
Thread Tools
Jan 27, 2016, 04:54 PM
Registered User
Same pin connection, it is(was) power pin, that is why it have multiple connection.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Feb 05, 2016, 05:43 PM
Registered User
Gemmmy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkydiver73
I did the iA6B mod too, it's very accurate , whitin 0.01V. Need to melt the plastic of the pins with soldering iron, or maybe easier to sacrifice an ibus pin.
Tried with 3s, but the voltage divider is 38.4K + 10K, feel free to try on 4s. Some hot glue for fixing the wire is recommended .
Can you make it in a short video ?
Feb 05, 2016, 05:44 PM
Registered User
Gemmmy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by triibutu
Since I haven't seen this anywhere else yet, here's a relatively easy mod to enable the cheap and light iA6 receiver to monitor flight battery (or any other) voltage instead of the RX own regulated power and send that back to the i6 or i10 TX.
On the first pic is the ADC input circuit for the RX voltage telemetry, it's a 1/10 (I suppose, mine is more like 1/11, the resistors being 47,1k and 4,77k) voltage divider and is connected to the + pin of channel 1. The + pins of all channels are connected together on the other side of the PCB, all that's needed is to separate the voltage input from the rest. Remove the cover, wiggle the plastic spacer off the pins and just cut the trace between the two pins like on the second pic.
Now, instead of that useless RX voltage from the BEC, you can have some other voltage sent back to the TX and displayed on the screen without any additional sensors.
I tested this with 3S battery (up to 12,6 volts) and the i6 TX displays it nicely, but I don't know what the real upper limit is. RX voltage alarm works fine too, the only small problem is that the i6 TX will let you set RX battery level up to 10.0 volts and the alarm can only be set up to 9.8 volts. If that is not suitable, it's possible to reduce the telemetry voltage by half by connecting a 51k series resistor with the voltage input, only have to remeber that the displayed voltage is then half the battery voltage, but you can set the alarms more freely (I have mine set to 5,4V, which then means 10.8 volts flight battery voltage).

Edit: The mod for iA6B is in post #23
Can you make it in a short video ?
Feb 05, 2016, 08:47 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar
I have found that the easiest way to mod the iA6 is to make a cut on the underside of the board, clean the enamel from the 'sense' track and solder on a single wire.

I monitor the bottom 2 (from negative) cells in my packs, with the warning set at 7.0V for high drain models (EDFs, Hotliners), but higher for more sedate models. When the alarm starts sounding at full throttle, I have time for a couple of circuits at reduced power to set up the landing, and usually end up with 25% capacity remaining.

The "dummy" black wire helps me locate the plug correctly in the balance socket, especially when using 3 and 4 cell packs.
Feb 11, 2016, 07:59 AM
Registered User

Some help please, I messed up


While trying the method from the first post I struggled to wiggle out the plastic pin spacers with tweezers so I gave up on that and went for the method in this last post cutting the backside and soldering right to the trace.

When I finished and went to power up the rx would not start, no led, no binding with tx.- After much testing I thought to look at the front side and try once again to take out the spacers to see if I messed something up I couldnt see beneath them, so when I finally did it, i compared with the pics from OP and there it was: I must have popped off a component in the circled spot while struggling with the spacers.

So what I would really appreciate is for someone here to please check out their board and identify what goes there so I can hook up to the leads and replace it off board. I think it must probably be a resistor providing the ground to the 8mhz oscillator, cant tell smd values from OP's pics tho
Feb 11, 2016, 08:28 AM
Registered User
That's a ceramic capacitor, has to be the same as on the other side of the oscillator. They bear no markings unfortunately, but usually around 22 pF is used with crystals.
Feb 11, 2016, 12:36 PM
Registered User
I have 1.60uF as measured on the oscillator's pads which are connected in parallel to the capacitor and the module, although being in parallel affects the capacity that's being read by the dmm, you rekon there would be any harm by mismatching the original capacitor? Thanks for your prompt reply btw
Last edited by nelsonmunoz; Feb 11, 2016 at 12:37 PM. Reason: Added pic
Feb 11, 2016, 01:01 PM
Registered User
You can't measure them in-circuit like that and your dmm won't go that low anyway.
But there is no harm done trying, it just won't work.
Feb 11, 2016, 02:04 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by triibutu
You can't measure them in-circuit like that and your dmm won't go that low anyway.
But there is no harm done trying, it just won't work.
I've got another dmm with a lower scale,would just have to put some batteries in. Do you think it'be worth it to desolder the cap, or is that too risky ? I think i'll gun it with the 22pF first then if that doesn't work i'll take it out and measure it proper. I'm just worried about its reliability if it powers on whilst mismatched -- wouldn't like a dropout mid flight...

In any case I ordered an ia6b, I'm just antsy in the meantime.

Thanks again for helping out a newbie.
Feb 11, 2016, 04:46 PM
Registered User
Anyone knows how to get the RSSI signal out of the fs ia6b?
Feb 11, 2016, 10:31 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by triibutu
That's a ceramic capacitor, has to be the same as on the other side of the oscillator. They bear no markings unfortunately, but usually around 22 pF is used with crystals.
Thanks triibutu! The 22pF did the trick, the rx works again and now reading the two lower flight battery cells. Thanks to all the others as well!
Last edited by nelsonmunoz; Feb 12, 2016 at 04:31 AM.
Feb 11, 2016, 11:15 PM
Laughs at un-boxing videos...
basicguy's Avatar
I removed 3 or 4 of the insulator/spacers. If they don't come off with slight persuasion, use a contact cleaner or other lubricant/cleaner. Never takes more than a minute at most. Work around the edge. Soldering on a trace like Krafty says works well. I solder a pin to the other end of the trace and measure the first cell. It works well on all pack sizes.
Feb 12, 2016, 09:33 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by stinkydiver73
I did the iA6B mod too, it's very accurate , whitin 0.01V. Need to melt the plastic of the pins with soldering iron, or maybe easier to sacrifice an ibus pin.
Tried with 3s, but the voltage divider is 38.4K + 10K, feel free to try on 4s. Some hot glue for fixing the wire is recommended .

No need to melt the plastic. The plastic piece will slide off and underneath is another trace that needs to be cut on the iA6B.
In summary:
1 Cut the trace between the two resistors.
2 Cut the trace between the middle pin of J1 and the rest on the backside
3 Cut the trace opposite the one that was just cut, under the plastic
4 Solder a small wire from the resistor to the middle pin of J1
5 Feed your battery wire to the middle pin of J1. I pulled from an ESC
Feb 22, 2016, 11:37 AM
Registered User
I am running my ia6b v2 naked. does anyone know if i can remove the metal cover thing and surrounding metal casing? I am planning on dremeling it all off. as long as the metal cover doesnt really serve any purpose but protection.
Feb 22, 2016, 06:12 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaw
I am running my ia6b v2 naked. does anyone know if i can remove the metal cover thing and surrounding metal casing? I am planning on dremeling it all off. as long as the metal cover doesnt really serve any purpose but protection.
It can be pried off. I started pulling one off. Cant say for sure if I was breaking it or if it was just glued. YMMV.


Thread Tools