FlySky / Turnigy iA6 (and iA6B) voltage telemetry mod - Page 17 - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Nov 07, 2017, 08:17 PM
Potato003
Removed
Last edited by batata003; Nov 08, 2017 at 03:48 PM.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Nov 08, 2017, 03:55 PM
Potato003
With all the respect to the OP (which brought this great feature into many people's attention!) I found a much better way to see the battery voltage in the transmitter without needing to "lose" the power rail at the first channel. This worked perfectly at the IA6 receiver. The OP alternative works fine and I am glad he posted this thread because it was because of him that I discovered this easier method! Thanks OP

The solution provided by the OP is great but I found another one which will keep all your channels working fine, no need to isolate the power rail from channel 1 from the others.

You also WONT need to remove the plastic connectors from all the channels (the black plastic that is very hard to remove!).

You will JUST need to do this: cut the trace from the back of the board from channel 1 that goes to a spot called BAT. JUST cut that trace with a knife of anything. In the image attached it's the blue arrow where you must cut.

AFTER that you just need to solder a wire to the BAT spot in the board (right below the CH1 terminal) and that's it! Only that. After that you can connect the other end of your wire to your 3S or 4S battery. I didnt try a higher voltage but my receiver worked fine till 17v!

This alternative is better than the provided by the OP cause you keep your channels power rails the same and dont need to mess with the power connector from the servo you would connect on channel 1.

One more thing: I tried doing the same in the IA6B receiver but I ended up damaging it. Playing with SMD in such a small size it's very hard and tricky to solder a wire to the head of the resistor. I strongly advise you not to waste your money and time trying to hack the IA6B, it's pretty difficult. But if you want to know the voltage of your drone/plane you should use the IA6 receiver and use the method described above, it will work perfectly and is the easiest way possible to do this (I searched a lot and couldnt find a better technique!).
Last edited by batata003; Nov 08, 2017 at 04:17 PM.
Nov 08, 2017, 05:05 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar

"Everything old is new again".


Quote:
Originally Posted by batata003
With all the respect to the OP (which brought this great feature into many people's attention!) I found a much better way to see the battery voltage in the transmitter without needing to "lose" the power rail at the first channel. This worked perfectly at the IA6 receiver. The OP alternative works fine and I am glad he posted this thread because it was because of him that I discovered this easier method! Thanks OP

The solution provided by the OP is great but I found another one which will keep all your channels working fine, no need to isolate the power rail from channel 1 from the others.

You also WONT need to remove the plastic connectors from all the channels (the black plastic that is very hard to remove!).

You will JUST need to do this: cut the trace from the back of the board from channel 1 that goes to a spot called BAT. JUST cut that trace with a knife of anything. In the image attached it's the blue arrow where you must cut.

AFTER that you just need to solder a wire to the BAT spot in the board (right below the CH1 terminal) and that's it! Only that. After that you can connect the other end of your wire to your 3S or 4S battery. I didnt try a higher voltage but my receiver worked fine till 17v!

This alternative is better than the provided by the OP cause you keep your channels power rails the same and dont need to mess with the power connector from the servo you would connect on channel 1.

One more thing: I tried doing the same in the IA6B receiver but I ended up damaging it. Playing with SMD in such a small size it's very hard and tricky to solder a wire to the head of the resistor. I strongly advise you not to waste your money and time trying to hack the IA6B, it's pretty difficult. But if you want to know the voltage of your drone/plane you should use the IA6 receiver and use the method described above, it will work perfectly and is the easiest way possible to do this (I searched a lot and couldnt find a better technique!).
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...6&postcount=34

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0&postcount=65
Nov 09, 2017, 07:51 AM
Potato003
@KraftyOne indeed, when the old is good it's always new!

Anyway, I discovered by myself that and clearly other people too. BUT when I search at google this thread is the first shown and unfortunatelly the method presented here is not the easiest one! So if someone reads my comment OR your 2 links luckly they will have more information!
Nov 09, 2017, 03:00 PM
Registered User
I attach some pictures here of the receiver and the mods made. I am using a Turnigy i10 transmitter. The center pin on J1 is isolated and confirmed with a volt meter. I have the jumper wire from the center pin on J1 to the resister that has also been isolated. I ran a positive lead directly from the where the FC is connected to the PDB (full 4s battery voltage). My transmitter is still showing that the receiver is connected but no telemetry. Only a rx battery symbol with a question mark? The original 5v telemetry from the receiver is now gone? Also, I am a noob! Lol
Nov 09, 2017, 04:34 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by batata003
@KraftyOne indeed, when the old is good it's always new!

Anyway, I discovered by myself that and clearly other people too. BUT when I search at google this thread is the first shown and unfortunatelly the method presented here is not the easiest one! So if someone reads my comment OR your 2 links luckly they will have more information!
Great minds think alike, so I've heard...

I find the easiest way to search for info in these forums is to use the "Show Attachments" page in the "Thread Tools" drop down menu.

"A picture is worth a thousand words".
Nov 10, 2017, 11:52 AM
Potato003
@KraftyOne wow I didnt know about the "Show attahments" tool! Always learning with you guys!

I cant agree with you @KraftyOne about great minds think alike hahha You americans (with all respect for you all guys) proved that stupid minds also think alike electing Trump! Here in brazil we also have terrible politicians, our last president was impeached last year and the current president almost got impeached twice this year... so yeah, we brazilians also think alike americans!
Nov 10, 2017, 01:17 PM
Registered User
There's many ways to skin a cat. One can separate the pad, solder a wire and keep the power pin, or one can separate the pin with just a knife and use a plug with no soldering required. Different compromises, same end result. Not all machines have servos.
The alternatives are all in this thread already. And iA6B, iA4B or iA10 are not too difficult either.
Nov 11, 2017, 02:59 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by batata003
@KraftyOne wow I didnt know about the "Show attahments" tool! Always learning with you guys!

I cant agree with you @KraftyOne about great minds think alike hahha You americans (with all respect for you all guys) proved that stupid minds also think alike electing Trump! Here in brazil we also have terrible politicians, our last president was impeached last year and the current president almost got impeached twice this year... so yeah, we brazilians also think alike americans!
I DID NOT VOTE FOR TRUMP!

I couldn't, I'm Australian.

And this is my friend Moe, who hops into my yard to "mow" the grass.
Nov 11, 2017, 03:40 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jojoextremeo
I attach some pictures here of the receiver and the mods made. I am using a Turnigy i10 transmitter. The center pin on J1 is isolated and confirmed with a volt meter. I have the jumper wire from the center pin on J1 to the resister that has also been isolated. I ran a positive lead directly from the where the FC is connected to the PDB (full 4s battery voltage). My transmitter is still showing that the receiver is connected but no telemetry. Only a rx battery symbol with a question mark? The original 5v telemetry from the receiver is now gone? Also, I am a noob! Lol
Hi. I have the same receiver, and did the same modification - except, I use Flysky I6 with modified firmware to support 10 channels. My receiver does work and report the voltage.

After removing the black plastic spacer at the bottom of the jumper pins, I scratched out the lead for the positive red pin. As far as I can remember, that is all that I did and needed to do. I am not sure what you have done here with the wire soldered up and around or where it goes - but I do not remember doing that. All that needed to be done was isolate the pin from the column of other spins. It is already wired to where it needs to go. After the modification, I had trouble since I was using a 6s system and the voltage reported back to transmitter does not work above 18v or 20v (I can't remember, but I needed +24v). The modification worked up to 4s batteries. I had to end up buying the external voltage sensor module for that, which cost like $7.00.

After I discovered the X6B receivers for $10.00 that come with the voltage detector built into it already, I switched over to use that - since it also supports iBus as well and has replaceable antenna(s).
Nov 13, 2017, 12:59 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jojoextremeo
I attach some pictures here of the receiver and the mods made. I am using a Turnigy i10 transmitter. The center pin on J1 is isolated and confirmed with a volt meter. I have the jumper wire from the center pin on J1 to the resister that has also been isolated. I ran a positive lead directly from the where the FC is connected to the PDB (full 4s battery voltage). My transmitter is still showing that the receiver is connected but no telemetry. Only a rx battery symbol with a question mark? The original 5v telemetry from the receiver is now gone? Also, I am a noob! Lol
Check the resistance between the gnd and the new battery measurement pin, it must be 48.4kOhm (10k+38.4k)


Thread Tools