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Nov 07, 2017, 07:17 PM
Potato003
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Last edited by batata003; Nov 08, 2017 at 02:48 PM.
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Nov 08, 2017, 02:55 PM
Potato003
With all the respect to the OP (which brought this great feature into many people's attention!) I found a much better way to see the battery voltage in the transmitter without needing to "lose" the power rail at the first channel. This worked perfectly at the IA6 receiver. The OP alternative works fine and I am glad he posted this thread because it was because of him that I discovered this easier method! Thanks OP

The solution provided by the OP is great but I found another one which will keep all your channels working fine, no need to isolate the power rail from channel 1 from the others.

You also WONT need to remove the plastic connectors from all the channels (the black plastic that is very hard to remove!).

You will JUST need to do this: cut the trace from the back of the board from channel 1 that goes to a spot called BAT. JUST cut that trace with a knife of anything. In the image attached it's the blue arrow where you must cut.

AFTER that you just need to solder a wire to the BAT spot in the board (right below the CH1 terminal) and that's it! Only that. After that you can connect the other end of your wire to your 3S or 4S battery. I didnt try a higher voltage but my receiver worked fine till 17v!

This alternative is better than the provided by the OP cause you keep your channels power rails the same and dont need to mess with the power connector from the servo you would connect on channel 1.

One more thing: I tried doing the same in the IA6B receiver but I ended up damaging it. Playing with SMD in such a small size it's very hard and tricky to solder a wire to the head of the resistor. I strongly advise you not to waste your money and time trying to hack the IA6B, it's pretty difficult. But if you want to know the voltage of your drone/plane you should use the IA6 receiver and use the method described above, it will work perfectly and is the easiest way possible to do this (I searched a lot and couldnt find a better technique!).
Last edited by batata003; Nov 08, 2017 at 03:17 PM.
Nov 08, 2017, 04:05 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar

"Everything old is new again".


Quote:
Originally Posted by batata003
With all the respect to the OP (which brought this great feature into many people's attention!) I found a much better way to see the battery voltage in the transmitter without needing to "lose" the power rail at the first channel. This worked perfectly at the IA6 receiver. The OP alternative works fine and I am glad he posted this thread because it was because of him that I discovered this easier method! Thanks OP

The solution provided by the OP is great but I found another one which will keep all your channels working fine, no need to isolate the power rail from channel 1 from the others.

You also WONT need to remove the plastic connectors from all the channels (the black plastic that is very hard to remove!).

You will JUST need to do this: cut the trace from the back of the board from channel 1 that goes to a spot called BAT. JUST cut that trace with a knife of anything. In the image attached it's the blue arrow where you must cut.

AFTER that you just need to solder a wire to the BAT spot in the board (right below the CH1 terminal) and that's it! Only that. After that you can connect the other end of your wire to your 3S or 4S battery. I didnt try a higher voltage but my receiver worked fine till 17v!

This alternative is better than the provided by the OP cause you keep your channels power rails the same and dont need to mess with the power connector from the servo you would connect on channel 1.

One more thing: I tried doing the same in the IA6B receiver but I ended up damaging it. Playing with SMD in such a small size it's very hard and tricky to solder a wire to the head of the resistor. I strongly advise you not to waste your money and time trying to hack the IA6B, it's pretty difficult. But if you want to know the voltage of your drone/plane you should use the IA6 receiver and use the method described above, it will work perfectly and is the easiest way possible to do this (I searched a lot and couldnt find a better technique!).
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...6&postcount=34

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...0&postcount=65
Nov 09, 2017, 06:51 AM
Potato003
@KraftyOne indeed, when the old is good it's always new!

Anyway, I discovered by myself that and clearly other people too. BUT when I search at google this thread is the first shown and unfortunatelly the method presented here is not the easiest one! So if someone reads my comment OR your 2 links luckly they will have more information!
Nov 09, 2017, 02:00 PM
Registered User
I attach some pictures here of the receiver and the mods made. I am using a Turnigy i10 transmitter. The center pin on J1 is isolated and confirmed with a volt meter. I have the jumper wire from the center pin on J1 to the resister that has also been isolated. I ran a positive lead directly from the where the FC is connected to the PDB (full 4s battery voltage). My transmitter is still showing that the receiver is connected but no telemetry. Only a rx battery symbol with a question mark? The original 5v telemetry from the receiver is now gone? Also, I am a noob! Lol
Nov 09, 2017, 03:34 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by batata003
@KraftyOne indeed, when the old is good it's always new!

Anyway, I discovered by myself that and clearly other people too. BUT when I search at google this thread is the first shown and unfortunatelly the method presented here is not the easiest one! So if someone reads my comment OR your 2 links luckly they will have more information!
Great minds think alike, so I've heard...

I find the easiest way to search for info in these forums is to use the "Show Attachments" page in the "Thread Tools" drop down menu.

"A picture is worth a thousand words".
Nov 10, 2017, 10:52 AM
Potato003
@KraftyOne wow I didnt know about the "Show attahments" tool! Always learning with you guys!

I cant agree with you @KraftyOne about great minds think alike hahha You americans (with all respect for you all guys) proved that stupid minds also think alike electing Trump! Here in brazil we also have terrible politicians, our last president was impeached last year and the current president almost got impeached twice this year... so yeah, we brazilians also think alike americans!
Nov 10, 2017, 12:17 PM
Registered User
There's many ways to skin a cat. One can separate the pad, solder a wire and keep the power pin, or one can separate the pin with just a knife and use a plug with no soldering required. Different compromises, same end result. Not all machines have servos.
The alternatives are all in this thread already. And iA6B, iA4B or iA10 are not too difficult either.
Nov 11, 2017, 01:59 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by batata003
@KraftyOne wow I didnt know about the "Show attahments" tool! Always learning with you guys!

I cant agree with you @KraftyOne about great minds think alike hahha You americans (with all respect for you all guys) proved that stupid minds also think alike electing Trump! Here in brazil we also have terrible politicians, our last president was impeached last year and the current president almost got impeached twice this year... so yeah, we brazilians also think alike americans!
I DID NOT VOTE FOR TRUMP!

I couldn't, I'm Australian.

And this is my friend Moe, who hops into my yard to "mow" the grass.
Nov 11, 2017, 02:40 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jojoextremeo
I attach some pictures here of the receiver and the mods made. I am using a Turnigy i10 transmitter. The center pin on J1 is isolated and confirmed with a volt meter. I have the jumper wire from the center pin on J1 to the resister that has also been isolated. I ran a positive lead directly from the where the FC is connected to the PDB (full 4s battery voltage). My transmitter is still showing that the receiver is connected but no telemetry. Only a rx battery symbol with a question mark? The original 5v telemetry from the receiver is now gone? Also, I am a noob! Lol
Hi. I have the same receiver, and did the same modification - except, I use Flysky I6 with modified firmware to support 10 channels. My receiver does work and report the voltage.

After removing the black plastic spacer at the bottom of the jumper pins, I scratched out the lead for the positive red pin. As far as I can remember, that is all that I did and needed to do. I am not sure what you have done here with the wire soldered up and around or where it goes - but I do not remember doing that. All that needed to be done was isolate the pin from the column of other spins. It is already wired to where it needs to go. After the modification, I had trouble since I was using a 6s system and the voltage reported back to transmitter does not work above 18v or 20v (I can't remember, but I needed +24v). The modification worked up to 4s batteries. I had to end up buying the external voltage sensor module for that, which cost like $7.00.

After I discovered the X6B receivers for $10.00 that come with the voltage detector built into it already, I switched over to use that - since it also supports iBus as well and has replaceable antenna(s).
Nov 13, 2017, 11:59 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jojoextremeo
I attach some pictures here of the receiver and the mods made. I am using a Turnigy i10 transmitter. The center pin on J1 is isolated and confirmed with a volt meter. I have the jumper wire from the center pin on J1 to the resister that has also been isolated. I ran a positive lead directly from the where the FC is connected to the PDB (full 4s battery voltage). My transmitter is still showing that the receiver is connected but no telemetry. Only a rx battery symbol with a question mark? The original 5v telemetry from the receiver is now gone? Also, I am a noob! Lol
Check the resistance between the gnd and the new battery measurement pin, it must be 48.4kOhm (10k+38.4k)
Nov 27, 2017, 06:50 PM
Potato003
@KraftyOne I know you didnt vote for Trump, you look a very smart person! It never crossed my mind

My friends I got a question about this mod: when I check the voltage that I connected to the receiver I see in my multmeter 12.6v (which is a completed charged battery) BUT when I check it in my transmitter (I used the exactly mod in this thread) it shows 12.1.

I know it's possible to adjust voltage sensitivity of the radio using the "secret menu". But I think this only relates to the voltage of the power supply connected to the TRANSMITTER.

Is there someway to calibrate the voltage at the receiver so the transmitter displays the correct voltage?
Nov 29, 2017, 05:47 AM
Registered User

FS iA10b mod


hi all
I have made a different mod to iA10b receiver.
I recently buyed a NAZA m lite and FS-i6x with iA10b.
normally we use to connect naza with its pmu that provides proportional voltage to measure battery status through naza
but iA10b only reads fixed 5,0v provided by pmu.

I have modified RX to read pmu output proportional voltage as naza do, but using "unused" BIND pin on iA10b.
Then I use an Y cable to power naza and iA10b with the same signals, but obviously I can not read real voltage on FS-i6x , but can program battery alarms.
I need a little formula to calculate "real" to "reading" voltage, but it is not a mistake.

Now I can read on i6x 4,303v for 10,000 Vbat.......5,166v for 12,000 Vbat ......and up to 7,739v for 18v (max 4s bat )
My motors do not support more than 4s and normally we use 3s or 4s (F450..S500 frame) batteries and it will be enought.

now I am looking for an option to add an offset to this measures by firmware , then we do not need flysky converter (sorry flysky ;-) , but I will buy other sensors in opposite )

this mod is primary made to use with naza pmu that provides about 2,24v from 6s battery (25,2v)
DO NOT exceed maximum 3,3v because this mod applies voltage directly to uC ADC pin
.
Last edited by wazoo666; Nov 29, 2017 at 07:12 AM. Reason: add extra info and edited picture
Nov 29, 2017, 05:07 PM
My 1st R/C had 2 valves !
KraftyOne's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by batata003
@KraftyOne I know you didnt vote for Trump, you look a very smart person! It never crossed my mind

My friends I got a question about this mod: when I check the voltage that I connected to the receiver I see in my multmeter 12.6v (which is a completed charged battery) BUT when I check it in my transmitter (I used the exactly mod in this thread) it shows 12.1.

I know it's possible to adjust voltage sensitivity of the radio using the "secret menu". But I think this only relates to the voltage of the power supply connected to the TRANSMITTER.

Is there someway to calibrate the voltage at the receiver so the transmitter displays the correct voltage?
My friends thought I was mad because I predicted that Trump would win...

I have not bothered with exact voltage calibration as I only use this mod to monitor the bottom 2 (from negative) cells in my packs, with the warning set at 7.0V for high drain models (EDFs, Hotliners), but higher for more sedate models. When the alarm starts sounding at full throttle, I have time for a couple of circuits at reduced power to set up the landing, and usually end up with 25% capacity remaining.
Jun 07, 2018, 11:19 AM
Registered User

FS-iA6B depinned + voltage mod


Bringing up long forgotten thread, but the topic is still important to some in 2018. So I did a depinning mod on FS-iA6B + did the voltage mod, to see Vbat on the transmitter. I hope images attached will help someone like me as most of the tutorials are for pinned version of FS-iA6B and there are basically no tutorials for doing this on depinned version. All working fine, as you can see in the image with voltmeter, accuracy is +- 0,03V. Flashed with 10ch custom fw v1.7.5 from github and everything working as it should.
Last edited by redpepper007; Jun 11, 2018 at 01:57 AM.


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