INSPIRE V1.5 HAS ARRIVED!!!


Welcome to my thread dedicated to distributing the improved 3D Printable DJI Inspired quadcopter that I have named V1.5! These files have been tested in a computer-aided-design environment to ensure correct operation of the landing gear mechanism and contain many improvements over the original print files.

To learn how V1.5 evolved into what it is today, as well as how to print it, assemble it, improve it, and fly it, read the progenitor thread here
3D Printed DJI Inspire Thread
This is where I, Helifrek, Mr.RCCAM, RTRyder and others have discussed the build, mods, and more.

STL FILES AND MODEL FILES ATTACHED BELOW!
These files are shared under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial License

Steps to follow.

• Read the guide.
• Download the frame STL archive.
• Download the set of arms that you want to use. Most people prefer the 20 degree set.
• Print arm joints at 100% infill.
  Print the frame top, frame bottom, bushing holders, and receiver shelf at 40% infill.
  The rest are your choice. You can use less infill.
  

IF FILES ARE CHANGED, THE CHANGED FILES WILL BE ATTACHED SEPARATELY
The main archives will be updated and reuploaded so newbies will get the most current version.
That way downloaders can print only the files that have been updated while using their other prints in their build.


STUFF YOU NEED TO READ

1. Frame Options
   
   1. 20 Degree Sweep
      Most people have used 20 degree sweeps in their frames.
   2. 15 Degree Sweep
      I have found that 15 degree sweep angle would be most effective for my frame since I have an aluminum gimbal with GoPro on the front and a smallish battery on the back.
   3. Exterior Wiring
      There is a set of Exterior Wire Clips that allows you to wire your motors and LEDs without the complicated process of threading your wires through the frame tubes. If you use nylon mesh to wrap your wire bundles they look pretty cool while remaining accessible and functional.
   4. Wormdrive Options
      You can choose two different types of Wormdrive (the primary landing gear part) prints for your frame. The "Wormdrive" prints do not include slots for you limit switches because they are installed on the front of the Frame Bottom print instead. The "Wormdrive Endstops" include those slots.
      Installing the endstop switches on the Frame is more accessible and adjustable than the "Wormdrive Endstops" style, which is still supported as a legacy print for people with frames already.
   5. Features
      
      • Large battery compartment
      • Battery straps
      • Wood screws to eliminate tube twist
      • Room for APM and Pixhawk
      • GPS on top
      • Mounting holes for extra components
      • FPV mount for PZ0420M camera
2. Hardware Needed
   
   1. Tools
      
      • Drill, Dremel w/ cutoff wheels
      • 3mm drill bit, 8mm drill bit
   2. Landing Gear Parts
      
      • Endstop switches
      • Metal Gear standard servo
      • Trimmer potentiometer
      1. Thrifty Diode Method
         
         • Diodes
      2. Arduino Control
         
         • Arduino Mini 5V
           or
         • Arduino Micro 5V
   3. Fasteners
      
      • Threaded inserts.
        I suggest using the threaded inserts for plastic from McMaster Carr. They are superior that the ones on BangGood, but the BangGood inserts are so cheap that I must recommend them as well. The BangGood inserts are less secure, but a tad easier to install.
      • Screws
        This is a long list and it is attached to the bottom of this post. Download the Parts List.
   4. Carbon fiber
      
      • 16mm tube
        I use 3K weave that I found on ebay.
        2x 200mm length
        2x 380mm length
      • 8mm tube
        I use this 3K weave that I found on ebay.
        2x 80mm length for joint shafts (can also be aluminum or CF rod)
        4x 50mm length for feet if not using ESC boxes.
      • 5mm rod
        The cheapest I found are from HobbyKing, so you can bundle them with your electronics
        2x 170mm for pivot control rods
        2x 80mm for tail canopy support
   5. Bushings
      You have several different options for bushings to hold the joint shaft.
      
      • You can buy two packs of these teflon bushings.
      • You can print the bushings that came in the file pack out of ABS or nylon (if you compensate for nylon shrinkage)
      • You can find bearings that will fit into the bushing holders. The cheapest I found were from McMaster for $4.50 each.
   6. Threaded Rod
      The threaded rod that actuates the landing gear is the most versatile and variable part of the build because many prople have access to different types and sizes of rod. I use metric 8x8mm four-start trapezoidal threaded rod for my machine and it transitions very quickly using a servo motor. Others have used 1/4-20, M5-0.8, M8-1.25, 1/4-16 ACME to successfully transition their landing gear. It doesn't really matter which you choose as long as you can mount it to your servo and fit a nut onto the top of the Wormdrive Endstop Holder. Most people print the original Wormdrive Endstop Holder piece and then modify it with a dremel to fit their nut.
      
   7. Electronics
      Motors, ESCs, Propellers, Battery, Silicone Wire, Flight Controller, etc...
      Completely up to you. Read the Thread to learn what other people have used.
3. Printer Settings
   The Joint tube ID has been set to 16.5mm to account for ABS shrinkage and tube diameter tolerance, I do not recommend scaling up the Joint prints to account for shrinkage.
   The files designed for perfect 16mm printed tube mounts are attached in a later post.
   Below are the settings that I have used to print my frame. They are very similar to the settings that I have read successful frames have used.
   
   1. Arm Joints, Bushings, Lift Linkages, 38mm Strut
      
      • Min. Infill: 100%
      • Min. Walls: 3
      • Raft: Yes
      • Support: No
   2. Major Frame Parts
      
      • Min. Infill: 40%
      • Min. Walls: 3
      • Raft: Strengthener, Motor Mount (print upside down), Frame Top, Frame Bottom
      • Support: Frame Top, Frame Bottom, Bushing Holder Rear, Wormdrive
   3. Canopy Parts, Canopy Nose, Canopy Top, Canopy Tail
      
      • Min. Infill: 20%
      • Min. Walls: 2
      • Raft: Yes
      • Support: Yes
4. Assembly Instructions
   
   1. Component Preparation
      
      • Threaded Inserts
        
        1. Ream holes to 4mm with drill if using McMaster threaded inserts.
        2. Place insert onto a clean hot soldering iron (I use 300C temp).
        3. Gently press into hole until fully inserted. Insert should be just below the surface of the part.
        4. Quickly remove iron and thread in a long screw. Use the screw to clear the threads of plastic and orient the insert perpendicular to the part.
      • Wormdrive Endstop Holder
        
        1. Ream linkage holes to 3mm.
        2. Install your insert onto the top of the part (side with the ridge) using a heat gun or epoxy after drilling to an appropriate size.
        3. Install your endstop switches with M2.5 screws after they have been soldered to the circuit. Ensure correct orientation.
      • Linkages
        
        1. Carefully ream to 3mm (not 1/8"!) the screw holes on the Boom Support Linkages, Rod Linkages, and Bushing Holder Rear.
        2. Ensure minimal slop between the screws.
      • Arm Joints
        
        1. Ream Inner Arm Joint to 8mm or until axle snug.
        2. Widen Arm Joint tube holes with a dremel and cutting bit until the tube is tight in the part but can be fully inserted. Loose is bad, but can be compensated for.
      • Tubes
        You MUST do these steps before the Section B list below!
        
        1. When drilling into carbon fiber, use high speed and light pressure to start.
        2. Cut to length with cutoff wheel. Grind ends flat.
        3. Insert both ends into drill guides and place on flat surface in order to align holes to be drilled.
        4. Use hot glue to secure the guides so that they cannot rotate after being placed correctly.
        5. Drill drill 1st hole in one drill guide. Insert long screw to test and hold it in place. Drill 2nd hole in same drill guide. Insert long screw.
           Drill the remaining holes into the other side after ensuring the drill guides are still parallel.
        6. Measure and mark the center of the arm tube and the side on which the wire routing hole will later be drilled.
           DO NOT drill wire routing hole until Step 19!
        7. After all holes are drilled assemble all tubes into Boom Joint, Outer Joint, and Motor Mounts for both left and right arms.
        8. Put a long piece of 8mm tube into the Boom Joint axle holes.
        9. Carefully examine the arms to ensure motor mounts attached to the same arm are level to one another.
           Carefully examine the arms to ensure that the arm tube is level with the pivot tube in the Boom Joint (hence the long 8mm piece).
        10. Twist them until they are level, widening holes if necessary.
      • Wire Routing
        • Add wires for LEDs even if you don't have them yet. They would be a huge pain to add after a completed assembly.
        • Do not solder connectors onto your wires until after they have been threaded through the tubes.
        • I recommend using wires that remain in the arms and have connectors at both sides to streamline replacing components.
          This requires 24 plugs if your ESCs are on the center frame and 16 plugs if your ESCs are under the motors.
          Wire mesh makes it much easier to route through the tubes, allows bundling with LED/signal wires, protects from abrasion, and looks really nice.
   2. Putting Stuff Together
      Assembly begins at the servo and the Frame Top. The written instructions below are more descriptive than the visual guide, so I suggest you have both open in different tabs so you can see all of the information.
      VISUAL ASSEMBLY GUIDE (WORK IN PROGRESS)
      
      
      • Central Frame and Wormdrive Mechanism
        
        1. Attach servo to Frame Top using 8mm button head screws.
        2. Attach Servo Cap to the servo horn using the screws included in the servo box.
           Attach servo horn to the servo using the screw supplied with the servo.
        3. Attach the threaded rod to the servo cap and secure with a M3 set screw. (Print a cap that uses an insert, or an undersize hole that can thread an M3 screw)
        4. Thread Wormdrive onto threaded rod, lower than half-way so the final assembly will be in a gear-down configuration.
        5. Attach Lift Linkages to the Wormdrive using 40mm socket head or button head screws. Use nylock nuts or regular nuts with locktite. Washers may reduce friction here.
        6. Attach Frame Strengthener to Frame Top using 10mm screws.
        7. Insert joint shaft into the Boom Joints.
           Add Bushings and spacers/washers (if needed) onto both shafts.
        8. Insert Boom Joint and shafts into Bushing Holder Front. Press fit.
        9. Attach Boom Rod Linkages to the Bushing Holder Rear using a long socket screw and nut or a socket screw after installing threaded inserts into the Bushing Holder Rear.
           Use blue locktite on the screw if using inserts.
        10. Attach the Boom Joint assembly to the Wormdrive assembly using 10mm screws.
            Do not connect Lift Linkages to the Boom Joint until carbon fiber tubes are drilled and inserted.
        11. Slide Bushing Holder Rear onto the joint shafts. Secure Bearing Holder Rear to Frame Top with 10mm screws.
        12. Attach Receiver Shelf to Frame Bottom using 10mm screws.
        13. Attach Bushing Holders assembly to the Frame Bottom and Receiver Shelf using 10mm screws.
        14. Insert 80mm long 5mm diameter rods into the receiver shelf.
        15. Attach Canopy Tail to the Frame Strengthener using 8mm screws.
        16. Insert the battery straps that you want to use onto Canopy Tail.
        17. Attach Gimbal Frame to the Frame Bottom using 10mm socket head screws.
            
            DO NOT WIRE YOUR FRAME THE FIRST TIME YOU ASSEMBLE IT
            DO NOT GLUE YOUR TUBES INTO PLACE
        18. Insert tube into outer Boom Joint using 25mm socket screws and nuts+locktite or 30mm socket screws and locknuts.
            
        19. Now we can determine CoG and drill the Arm wire holes
            
            1. Install your battery and gimbal with camera, don't worry about the other electronics since they are much lighter.
            2. Use some sort of long bar to balance your Inspire on its arms in down position.
            3. Determine the balance point. That is where the center of your arm tube must be positioned. Slide the tube to this position and mark needed clamp locations on the tube at sides of the outer Joint.
               If motor mounts are too close to the boom tubes, the propeller may strike. Do not shift the center backward more than 26mm when using 13" props.
            4. Mark a point 29mm toward the front from the marking you made for the Boom Support Linkage. This is where the wire routing hole will be drilled.
               Drill the wire routing hole in the same plane as the motor mount holes, 10-11mm diameter.
            5. After aligning the wire routing hole with Outer Joint 2, and install Boom stop at front using 20mm flat head screw and locknut.
        20. Clamp arm tube with Outer Joint using 10mm screws.
            Be very careful not to over-tighten and cause the Outer Joint 1 print to split. This is of concern when there is a gap between Outer Joint 1 and Outer Joint 2, which is fine functionally.
            Tighten until there is no wobble between tube and Arm Joint. Minimize friction to allow tube rotation by smoothing the contact surfaces on the Joint prints.
            
        21. Attach ESC boxes and one Motor Foot to Motor Mount using two 20mm flat head screws. The "+" sign on the inside of the ESC Box faces outward.
        22. Test fit Motor Foot to Motor Mount to check CF tube length is correct, file to fit. You want the Foot Tube to have less than 1mm of wiggle room before it hits the ESC box.
        23. Install Motor Mounts to arm tube using 30mm flat head screws and nylock nuts.
        24. Loosely secure remaining Motor Foot print with two 10mm flat head screws and two 20mm flat head screws.
      • Landing Gear
        Now that the landing gear is nearly complete, you can use #4 3/8" countersunk wood screws to lock down the tubes into the printed parts.
        There are 4 locations on each arm where a wood screw can be inserted. It is important to insert them in order to achieve the best result, if your frame experiencing any tube twisting in the mounts or joints.
        
        1. Mark your tubes so they can be distinguished between left and right and front and back. The tubes must go back in the same place after disassembly and reassembly.
        2. Place your frame on a table or other flat surface and confirm that the landing gear is even, and the arms remain parallel when you lift the frame by the outer arm joints.
        3. For best results, drill pilot hole and insert the wood screw one location at a time. Work your way from the center outward, one at a time.
        4. Use Drill Guide for Wood Screw, wrench, and 5/64" drill bit to start pilot hole. Once you score a point, remove Drill Guide and drill hole through only one wall of tube.
        5. Insert #4 wood screw into pilot hole, being careful not to over-tighten.
        6. Check frame orientation again before moving on to the next hole since inserting the screw can cause the tubes to rotate a tad.
        7. Once you are finished with the wood screws disassemble arm and boom joints, keeping track of tube identity and orientation for later (markings).
      • Wiring and Final Landing Gear
        
        1. 
        2. Attach motors to Mounts using 10mm screws.
        3. Route wire bundles through tubes and Arm Joints. Don't forget the LED wires. Add them even if you don't have LEDs yet.
        4. Insert tubes into Motor Mounts and Arm Joints and secure with socket head screws.
           Insert screws carefully, ensuring that the wires are not pinched or damaged.
           ***A good method is to insert a pick from the opposite side in order to spread the bundles. Touch the tip of the pick with the screw and press the screw through the hole. Add nuts afterward.
        5. It's a good idea to route one bundle on either side of the socket screws so that they are easier to tug through to adjust length after assembly.
        6. Reinstall your wood screws last,
           Be careful of your wires. They should already be spread out of the way due to the adjacent socket screws crossing the tube, but be aware.
        7. Check frame orientation again before locking wood screws down with a dab of superglue around the edge. This should still be removable later if you need to.
        8. Glue (epoxy or CA glue recommended) control rod into remaining Boom Rod Linkage and test fit it into the other on the frame.
        9. Check motor orientation and ensure that the Boom Support Linkage angle is 60 degrees down from the horizontal when motor mounts are rotated to the desired angle.
        10. Glue the rod into the linkage on the frame after the correct length is cut and the motors are oriented correctly.
      • Canopy
        
        1. Attach Base Plate to the Frame Bottom using 6mm screws.
        2. Tie Base Plate to Receiver Shelf by attaching 38mm Struts with 6mm screws.
        3. Attach Canopy Top to Canopy Tail and Frame Top using 6mm screws.
        4. Attach Canopy Nose to Frame Top using 6mm screws and to Frame Bottom using 8mm screws.
        5. Attach your Gimbal Plate to your gimbal. Then attach the Gimbal Plate to the Gimbal Frame using 10mm screws.

Procrastination Pics!!!


203 downloads for V1.3! Awesome!
I'm retiring the V1.3 files now that V1.5 is out. I may add them to a blog post so that they are still accessible.

OVER 2000 DOWNLOADS for V1.5!
When I reupload a file the view counter restarts

Subscribed! I can't wait to see how much more this airframe evolves! I know we all appreciate your contributions.

Yeah I really like the bottom shelf being one piece like that. It will make it look a lot nicer from the bottom, give more space, AND make it lighter.. yay

Very nice Fragmaster!
I've been silently following Helifreak's thread and keep debating if I want to print one of these or not. One day I think I will but I keep thinking I want to make one a little smaller to utilize a 450 size power setup.

The STLs for the boom and arm linkages are missing...

great work by all involved indeed , im gearing up to print one out myself but i'd like to edit it for 22mm booms , any advice would be great thanks

Awesome work and great idea to splinter this out to new thread!

Great design work by all involved.
I have been following the previous thread and now that I have my 3D printer functional have decided to join the group and print this great model.

Would it be possible to post the STEP files (for the printed parts) as you have done in the previous thread so we can modify the thread insert holes for a different make as we cannot purchase from McMaster when located in Canada?

Originally Posted by djar

The STLs for the boom and arm linkages are missing...

Thanks for letting me know. Files added!

Originally Posted by MacNorth

Great design work by all involved.
I have been following the previous thread and now that I have my 3D printer functional have decided to join the group and print this great model.

Would it be possible to post the STEP files (for the printed parts) as you have done in the previous thread so we can modify the thread insert holes for a different make as we cannot purchase from McMaster when located in Canada?

Yes, I'll post them once I export them. What threaded inserts are you using? It may help others for me to post a version of the files with hole sizes optimized for that type, if it is the most common alternative. All insert holes should be printed a tad undersized and drilled out to accommodate different printer variability.

Originally Posted by Fragmaster

Yes, I'll post them once I export them. What threaded inserts are you using? It may help others for me to post a version of the files with hole sizes optimized for that type, if it is the most common alternative. All insert holes should be printed a tad undersized and drilled out to accommodate different printer variability.

Hi Fragmaster,
I have been using PEM IUTB-M3 inserts on my other projects that require a 4.01mm diameter with a hole depth requirement of 6.5mm. Reading through the posts, my inserts may work without any changes.

Awesome. Now all I need an assembly manual for all these parts I have laying around.
Fragmaster- I think your link to the V1.3 files are down.

Originally Posted by Rcfiddy1

Awesome. Now all I need an assembly manual for all these parts I have laying around.
Fragmaster- I think your link to the V1.3 files are down.

Thanks for letting me know. The link has been repaired!

Assembly is kindof intuitive, but it's true that we need to make a manual soon. It's been harder than I expected to make an exploded view of my assembly.

are *.rar files in the first post contain complete part ? including the original one sold by rchobbyuk?

Originally Posted by skellator

are *.rar files in the first post contain complete part ? including the original one sold by rchobbyuk?

No they are not. Depending how you go about building you may need original stls from rchobbyuk. Its good to start from originals and see which parts you will need.