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Feb 01, 2017, 05:13 PM
MorganTech
I have a Suppo 2820-6 that is 1000KV and swings a 11x5.5 APC-E prop, the motor weighs 140g. I'll probably try it on both 3s & 4s, the CG will most likely dictate which one I use.. I did do a mod to the motor mount file , enlarging it by 8mm in diameter. This allows the wires to pass and stay clear of the rotating out-runner.

Thanks for the link... with the long awaited release of the Stearman PT-17, I thought it was pretty quiet around here. I was wondering if there was any chat going on about it.
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Feb 03, 2017, 01:43 PM
Aerobatic Fanatic
HugoCraft's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwellsy
If I could find a sub $1000 printer/cutter that would be awesome.
I spent $315 on the monoprice maker select v2 and been printing since black friday. Hoping to start printing all the parts to make this CNC which should cost less than $400

MPCNC (Mostly printed cnc)
https://vicious1.com/specifications/

Things I've printed so far
https://goo.gl/photos/xYVkCBs8RJYc74gt8
Feb 03, 2017, 02:41 PM
Ken's CAD Models
dz1sfb's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by HugoCraft
I spent $315 on the monoprice maker select v2 and been printing since black friday. Hoping to start printing all the parts to make this CNC which should cost less than $400

MPCNC (Mostly printed cnc)
https://vicious1.com/specifications/

Things I've printed so far
https://goo.gl/photos/xYVkCBs8RJYc74gt8
Very interesting!

Ken
Feb 03, 2017, 05:00 PM
Purdue Engineering
Rocketman1092's Avatar
I printed the MPCNC a year or two ago. It's a great machine! I mostly use it to cut multicopter frame plates from G10 fiberglass, which it handles nicely.
Feb 04, 2017, 12:11 AM
Registered User
Austin42's Avatar

help with printing problem


As you can see the fuselage parts of my print came out great. I had a nozzle clog before I started the wing sections and this is when my issues started. I am getting a lace like effect in some parts of the print
Feb 04, 2017, 10:33 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Austin42
As you can see the fuselage parts of my print came out great. I had a nozzle clog before I started the wing sections and this is when my issues started. I am getting a lace like effect in some parts of the print
It looks to me as if the nozzles is still causing issues. I had this once and it was because of the extruder stepper gear stripping/slipping the filament as the nozzle was still partially dirty. I had to clean my nozzle better then it was able to push it thru fine, and that problem went away for me.
Feb 04, 2017, 06:19 PM
Registered User
roversgonemad's Avatar
I printed another section, 55C bed temp. I pumped up the flow parameter to 160% for the first few layers. I also applied some alaphatic glue to the edges of the trailing edge. It was up a little, but I was able to sand the mating surface to the point the glue joint was acceptable. I also cleaned the bed and started with clean glass.

The third section is printing now. We'll see how it comes out....

Does simplify3d have more options for the layers at the bed? I wanted to fly the P-47 first before spending money on more software... But if it's really that much better, it might be worth it.
Feb 04, 2017, 06:35 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by roversgonemad
I printed another section, 55C bed temp. I pumped up the flow parameter to 160% for the first few layers. I also applied some alaphatic glue to the edges of the trailing edge. It was up a little, but I was able to sand the mating surface to the point the glue joint was acceptable. I also cleaned the bed and started with clean glass.

The third section is printing now. We'll see how it comes out....

Does simplify3d have more options for the layers at the bed? I wanted to fly the P-47 first before spending money on more software... But if it's really that much better, it might be worth it.
My opinion Simplify 3D has more options that you can imagine. I bought it because of these planes and I have never regretted it.
Feb 05, 2017, 06:02 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by roversgonemad
So I did a search and didn't see anything definitive about my problem. I am printing a Slic3r P-47. My printer is a Makerfarm Pegasus 10. I am running the 3Dlabprint recommended settings with some tweaks to get rid of zits and get the weight at the right point. All the fuselage parts printed well (progressively better by the section as I tweaked settings). When I started printing wing sections, the trailing edges are pulling up. It was recommended that I lower my bed temperature. I did this, and it pulled up worse. Filament is eSun 1.75 mm, print head is the e3 v6 with a .40 mm nozzle. Filament is running at 200 C, I initially had the bed at 70 C, per the 3Dlabprint recommendations. I lowered bed temp to 50 C, and the trailing edge pulled up worse than before. I am using Suave hairspray, it's vinyl based, on solid parts, it makes parts pretty hard to get off the bed. Stefan recommended a higher bed temp, I'll try that next. I'd love to hear from some more experienced printers out there. I'm really forward to flying some printed planes. But it's not going to work well with warped glue joints..... Any tips are greatly appreciated!
I found esun filament in grey, and in fact many brands in grey a little problematic.

With esun filament and these thin wall parts I found I had to up the hotend temp considerably, I would try as high as 215 or even 220 which may help with not only layer adhesion but also "sticking"down the 1st layer, and likewise I ran the heated bed around 72 for 1st layer and drop it down to 67 from 2nd layer onwards.

I never really had much success with hairspray, it makes a mess and really didnt help me much at all. I find printing on Kapton tape on top of a nice flat borosilicate glass, or even borosilicate glass directly with slightly hotter temps than most people suggest (could be my printer reading high) and maybe 5 or 6 brim loops works best.

It's also important to have a nice flat bed (hence I like the boro glass), any low spots on your surface will allow air to get under the brim, and that 1st layer needs to be squished down hot and tight. I have on those big inner wing pieces at times had the 1st layer height (there is a % 1st layer setting in S3d) so close to the bed the extruder skips a step occasionaly and the print is "elephant footed" at the bottom (look at S3D troubleshooting page for that reference) but it sticks down and stays flat.

yes cleaning up the brim can be a bit painful but start with getting a succesful flat print and then you can increase the brim seperation until you have issues again, the more seperation you can have the easier it is to remove.

Yes S3D gives you more options, and like donandtheresa I have not regretted paying for the license.

EDIT: in case your wondering how successful my prints are.. I have printed wing pieces 480mm tall on my delta, when printing that tall its absolutely crucial to have that 1st layer well and truly flat and stuck to the bed.. there is a picture of a 480mm tall wing print nearly finished in my post here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=388
Last edited by auscrash; Feb 05, 2017 at 06:17 PM.
Feb 05, 2017, 11:00 PM
Registered User
roversgonemad's Avatar
Good to know about the grey. Once I finish this plane, I think I'm going to order a couple rolls of natural. The brim is a pain, but it definitely helps hold the pieces down. I have been pumping the flow up to 150% for the first few layers, through the printer control. There's some trimming to fit parts, but it's stuck to the bed quite well. I have have had some layer adhesion issues too, but nothing consistent, so I've been sealing them up with a little CA.

I'm curious to see how this thing flies. I am wondering if 3S is going to be enough. Based on the cowling weight, I should be in the ballpark weight-wise, but 3S may be a little anemic. I don't have any 4S, so I may need to series up a couple 3S, and really haul!!
Feb 06, 2017, 05:02 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by roversgonemad
I have have had some layer adhesion issues too, but nothing consistent, so I've been sealing them up with a little CA.
sounds like its either too cold, or you may have temp stability issues (based on your inconsistent comment). I would certainly try upping your hotend temp maybe another 10c over whatever you have now, I'd even keep upping it until you have indications in the print its just too hot like sagging and back it off from there, my experience with flying these is you need good strong layer adhesion or you run a very real risk of a wing or fuse break in the air under load. I purchased some esun yesterday and noticed the labels on the rolls specify 210-220c for their pla+ so even esun are upping their recommendations from what they used to have on the label I believe.
Feb 07, 2017, 10:11 AM
Never too old to learn
So, I have the fuse and left wing printed of the Hannes Edge.
Had the nozzle clog as I started on the right wing.
I removed the nozzle and cleaned it.
When I powered up the printer nothing happened.
Here I am with over half a printed plane and my printer is dead. I contacted xyz printing and they gave me 3 options.
I may just ship it back and get another brand printer as I was never happy with the prints the DaVinci put out.

Tom
Feb 07, 2017, 10:29 AM
Registered User
I would take the case off the power supply, look for a blown fuse and reseat every connector?
Feb 07, 2017, 09:21 PM
Registered User
roversgonemad's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by auscrash
sounds like its either too cold, or you may have temp stability issues (based on your inconsistent comment). I would certainly try upping your hotend temp maybe another 10c over whatever you have now, I'd even keep upping it until you have indications in the print its just too hot like sagging and back it off from there, my experience with flying these is you need good strong layer adhesion or you run a very real risk of a wing or fuse break in the air under load. I purchased some esun yesterday and noticed the labels on the rolls specify 210-220c for their pla+ so even esun are upping their recommendations from what they used to have on the label I believe.
I think to be safe, I'll reprint the wing half I have printed. I have a new roll of grey... It will be a good challenge to make the grey work. The next plane is definitely going to be natural, probably with red accents. I completely agree that the temp is too low. I have printed a few other parts for my kids, and I upped the temp and got much better finish results.
Feb 09, 2017, 12:35 PM
Purdue Engineering
Rocketman1092's Avatar
I've been inspired by all of the 3D printed airplanes turning up lately and decided to start modeling a design of my own.

Man, inlets buried in wing roots are tricky work


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