Thread Tools
Sep 22, 2015, 12:04 AM
Tom Para
Tom in Cincy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobberknocker
. Maybe a type of tongue and groove in the design would help.
My peg also fits very snug. Maybe your calibration is off or maybe a wider extrusion would help.
Yes. a tongue & groove would fix it.
So did a thin piece of plywood
I 'm Just not crazy about the way the front of the wing is secured.
I am going to take a couple short pieces of K&S brass telescoping tubes and make an insert .
Kind like a spring loaded canopy hatch lock.
I hope to get a few more flights in tomorrow..
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Sep 22, 2015, 12:32 AM
Registered User
Slobberknocker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom in Cincy
So did a thin piece of plywood
Plywood?!? How the he** did you print plywood? Im so far behind....I just got the freaking plastic figured out.

Seriously though. Post up some pics of your mods and fixes. If we get enough, maybe we could get a new 2.0 release with all the fixes and upgrades built in.
Sep 22, 2015, 01:06 AM
Stepan
Thread OP
Hey, I am very pleased with your first flight gratulation, just few question, did you have proper center of gravity (if it is more aft we gain elevator sensitivity...) I use this planes for ACES aircombat and never had issue with glue joints (I use recomended CA and accelerator from userguide and PLA print). Also the wing into the fuselage fits very accurately, but it will probably always different tolerances dependent upon the particular printer
Sep 22, 2015, 03:42 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom in Cincy
It Flew !

I am happy to report I had 3 successful flights on the Spitfire today.
Woohoo, great news, thanks for the report.


On my front, thanks for the info and suggestions from you all about hairing.

I have had some much better success with PETG
I've managed 2 successful warp free prints in a row on the main wing pieces (which seems the most prone to warp) I'm not sure what setting has had the biggest improvement but I suspect its slowing down the print speed. I have dropped it from 50mm/s down to 40mms. The other main changes are are extrusion temps now at 255 and Bed temp on 95 - both of those I have been gradually increasing.
Bed adhesion is now really good, just using kapton, no glue or spray - and even after the bed has cooled it takes quite a knock to release it.

The downside of course with the new speed is just one of the pictured wing pieces takes 8 hours to print.. but better slow than warped!

Here's a pic of the last two prints showing the nice flat mating surfaces

Next I'll start playing with retraction and restart settings using gary's advice earlier .
Sep 22, 2015, 05:04 AM
Registered User
Add1ct3dd's Avatar
Just adding myself into the convo - printed the test piece and it came out quite nicely, couple of layer splits with PLA, but I reckon upping the temp will solve that. (200c atm).

Is anyone printing with a .5mm nozzle? It's what I use, I got the "factory" file for Simplify3d from the guy who makes it which looks good, using 2 perimeters on the lower bit of the wing moving into 1 layer perimeter, and adjusted to suit a .5mm nozzle.
Sep 22, 2015, 03:39 PM
Registered User
Slobberknocker's Avatar
For you guys that are having problems with warping on the wing. I have found that a hotter temp during the first 2 layers for adhesion, then dropping the temps down for the rest helps with the warping. I have no problems with warping with any of the materials using this practice.

Black PLA example;
Extruder-
layer 1 215c
layer 2 210c
remaining layers 205-200
Bed-
layer 1- 60c
layer 2 -55c
remaining layers- 50c
Fan-
layer 1- off
layer 2- 60%
remaining layers- 100%
I use a similar rule for all my other plastics with great results, but I don't use a fan on ABS at all.
I print with a 12" Makerfarm I3V on a 3mm piece of mirror as my glass. Also using a .3mm promethious extruder.
Sep 22, 2015, 09:34 PM
Tom Para
Tom in Cincy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stepacz
Hey, I am very pleased with your first flight gratulation, just few question, did you have proper center of gravity (if it is more aft we gain elevator sensitivity...) I use this planes for ACES aircombat and never had issue with glue joints (I use recomended CA and accelerator from userguide and PLA print). Also the wing into the fuselage fits very accurately, but it will probably always different tolerances dependent upon the particular printer
Hi Stepan.
I got 2 more flights in today.
Yes the cg was correct .
I stiffened up the control rod, repaired and reinforced the elevator joint and adapted a servo horn to use on the elevator to replace the printed horn.
The longer horn on the elevator allowed me to move out a lot further to reduce the throw.
The stiffer setup actually made the pitch sensitivity worse.
This is what I know for sure.

With a fresh battery and flying fast the elevator is too touchy for me.
As the battery wears down or I throttle back the sensitivity is greatly reduced.

But I like going fast

I have flown speed 400 racers and hot liners.
What seems obvious to me is the elevator surface area is too
large.
It might be fine for combat flying but maybe not as well suited for the average sport flyer.

Getting back to the cg ..
The lettering and marks on the bottom wing panel does not work for me.
The plane needs to be balanced upside down.
A simple mark on the top of wing panel R1 and L1 would work better.

btw The ailerons are very good.
And I plan on cutting the elevators back

I'll report back how that plays out...............
Last edited by Tom in Cincy; Sep 22, 2015 at 10:26 PM.
Sep 22, 2015, 10:17 PM
lurking in the HOLE :)
KCV6's Avatar
Haven’t read all the posts but have been watching this thread for a while. For those of you having warping issues, are you only printing one piece at a time? I managed to eliminate some of the issues I had with printing larger ABS and PLA pieces and detail parts (gears) warping/deforming by printing a second part to the same height (dummy rod). This allowed each layer to stabilize before the printer put down the next layer. Downside is it takes longer to print and it wastes some filament but it did end out giving me consistent results.

Mark
Sep 23, 2015, 02:15 AM
Stepan
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Add1ct3dd
Just adding myself into the convo - printed the test piece and it came out quite nicely, couple of layer splits with PLA, but I reckon upping the temp will solve that. (200c atm).

Is anyone printing with a .5mm nozzle? It's what I use, I got the "factory" file for Simplify3d from the guy who makes it which looks good, using 2 perimeters on the lower bit of the wing moving into 1 layer perimeter, and adjusted to suit a .5mm nozzle.
Yes it (works) flyes, even with 0.5 nozzle. I have information from a guy who printed it, It gain strenght, durability (good for landing) But also 100grams of flying weight on the other hand, he said that it still flyes OK. This information is about P51D but I think it will works also for Spitfire...
Sep 23, 2015, 10:19 AM
Tom Para
Tom in Cincy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by KCV6
For those of you having warping issues, are you only printing one piece at a time? I managed to eliminate some of the issues I had with printing larger ABS and PLA pieces and detail parts (gears) warping/deforming by printing a second part to the same height (dummy rod).
Mark
Welcome aboard Mark. We are always open to suggestions and printing tips.

I myself have only printed one piece at a time especially these larger wing components.

Heading to the field right now to fly the Spitty.
I trimmed its tail feathers a bit so we will see if thats a good idea or not....
Sep 23, 2015, 07:43 PM
Tom Para
Tom in Cincy's Avatar
I got a few more flights in today.
I am happy to report trimming the elevator back 6 - 10 mm made it fly better for me.
Most people at the field agreed it looked more stable.
I'm not dissing Stepans design just saying it fits my style..
I included a few pics showing the trim job.
You could trim right to the internal structure doubler and there would still be enough elevator left to fly quite well .
Last pic shows the "cut in half" servo horn I used to replace the printed elevator horn...
Sep 23, 2015, 10:19 PM
lurking in the HOLE :)
KCV6's Avatar
Thanks Tom. Really nice job so far and really good work Stepan.

I havn't attempted any fixed wing parts yet, mostly custom multirotor parts but I print a lot of hollow enclosures/boxes and custom fixture parts for electronics test equipment at work. I'd love to get some time on our FORTUS 400 but I suspect that won't happen.

Mark
Last edited by KCV6; Sep 23, 2015 at 10:29 PM.
Sep 23, 2015, 11:29 PM
Registered User
Slobberknocker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom in Cincy
I got a few more flights in today.
I am happy to report trimming the elevator back 6 - 10 mm made it fly better for me.
Most people at the field agreed it looked more stable.
I'm not dissing Stepans design just saying it fits my style..
I included a few pics showing the trim job.
You could trim right to the internal structure doubler and there would still be enough elevator left to fly quite well .
Last pic shows the "cut in half" servo horn I used to replace the printed elevator horn...
Should be interesting to see what others have to say.
Its hard to tell what changed your flight characteristics more, the smaller elevator area, or the change in your mechanical linkage with the longer control horn. By changing the mechanical linkage, you have increased the servo resolution. That alone will smooth out that twitchy feeling you had.
Sep 24, 2015, 12:23 AM
Tom Para
Tom in Cincy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slobberknocker
Should be interesting to see what others have to say.
.
Agreed. I am eager to hear another report.
Very happy with my Spitty. Its flying nice.
Sep 24, 2015, 12:44 AM
lurking in the HOLE :)
KCV6's Avatar
Could possibly experiment with a few different balsa control surface configurations and then do a final printed version. Easy to shape on the fly and remove from the hinges when required. I have done this with foamies in the past.

Mark


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools