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Mar 19, 2015, 09:08 AM
Did I make the A Main?
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What's the best off-road electric RTR to get into racing with?


I see this question asked a lot, and figured I would share my thoughts here.

I feel that the best place to start is 1/8 Buggy. They are gonna be the most durable class which is important when first learning to race. You're gonna crash a lot and it would be much better to spend more of your time learning how to drive than learning how to make repairs which will be an issue with just about any other class... especially 2WD Buggy which is by far the weakest design that is prone to breaking easily. Many folks recommend 2WD racing as a first starter class and I couldn't disagree further. People say that racing 2WD makes you a better driver but I feel that it only adds more frustration because 2WD cars are more prone to spinning out of control. 4WD on the other hand is pretty much point a shoot, and that's what a beginner needs to get started with. Only exception I have for 2WD is if you're racing on a high traction indoor surface such as clay or carpet/turf.

I used to recommend the 4WD SCT class as they are equally durable with 1/8 Buggy, assuming you select a truck that is based on a corresponding 1/8 Buggy design. Only problem is that class typically uses 2S LiPo which places too much strain on the batteries so they typically need to be replaced every 6 months making it one of the most expensive classes to maintain. Clubs in my area are opening up battery restrictions and allowing folks to run 4S with the same electronics that are in 1/8 Buggies so that fixes the problem; however for someone wanting a RTR, then that pretty much eliminates any recommendation that I might make for 4WD SCT.

What you want to do is go down the list of options for each of the following cars and build a spreadsheet to list out key differences that are important to you. Try to look for aluminum and carbon fiber upgrades to see which one's offer better quality parts. Then go to the "Team Driver Support Page" for each corresponding brand and get a feel for which one will offer you the level of support that gives you a warm fuzzy. Since you won't be building a kit, you're gonna have lots of questions on how to tune and make repairs when things break so you're gonna need to rely heavily on the team drivers to help you out.

Here's the list of RTR's I'd consider to get started in your search (in no particular order):

Team Associated RC8.2e
Serpent 811-Be
SWorkz S350
HPI Vorza Flux
Losi 8ight-E

I would start looking at Associated and Losi first, they tend to have the best team driver support of the RTR's currently available on the market. Most RTR's have a poor setup out of the box. First thing you'll need to do is rebuild the diffs and shocks to suit the needs for your current track conditions. Find a team driver who has posted their setup sheet and then rebuild your car to match their setup to get the best results. Otherwise you'll only add more frustration driving a car that isn't setup for your conditions.

I would also highly recommend reading the Hudy Setup Guide, you'll be completely lost without it:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho....php?p=1953528

Check out more stuff on My Bookmarks page!
Last edited by bill_delong; Jan 25, 2019 at 04:23 PM.
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Jun 28, 2015, 01:06 PM
Registered User

DHK Hunter and Tekno SCT410.3


Those are two trucks you rarely see in the same sentence.

I own both. The hunter BL as my first since a 1989 Losi JrX2. Then got the bug and just purchased a new, built, Tekno SCT 410.3 with a Tekin Pr4 Rx8 setup it came with (would have economized on the Hobbywing Xerun).

In any event, I have questions surrounding both. My experience, as a basher currently, is that the Hunter is a blast. The Tekno is a way better performer, with handling, turning, and speed. However, it happens to nosedive when bashing at the high school across the street and I don't want to subject it to that given the expense.

Question 1: What is an economical way to upgrade my Hunter to a 3S setup with a good but economical electronic setup? Willing to spend maybe $150? Would also like to be able to take the Hunter to the track for a friend or back-up?

Question 2: How to outfit a SCT 410 as a basher/track back-up wth same 3S setup. I may be the high bidder on ebay for a $220 brand new SCT 410. It's partially built, shocks not done. I'm almost regretting bidding on this as the tekno was designed to race and I don't want to be wasteful, but think I may win today. Nobody is bididng higher than me.

In any event, your blogs are very helpful. I hope you can post to the RCtech threads on the SCT410 and 410.3. A lot of viewers there could use your input. FYI-I would have posted this to your thread, but couldn't locate it. I'm sure the advice would be helpful to a lot of people so I'm hoping you can update the group.


On another note, I'm a little disappointed bashing my Tekno. Love the feeling of the handling and speed. However, the local high school bashing area has these flats that have 5 foot embankment drop off's to lower tiers that my Hunter flies right over very well. Doesn't nose dive, and nose is not pointed in the air either (flat). But it flies. My Tekno nose dives? I know it's not a jump and haven't jumped my tekno yet, but wondering if that's normal.

In any event, the 2 questions I have above would be very helpful. I'm in the Newbie section of RCtech and am hoping to help some others with the advice on the Hunters as well.

thx much
Jun 29, 2015, 10:53 AM
Did I make the A Main?
bill_delong's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks for the interest!

Rather than go with a 3S setup, I would personally go with a 4S setup if it were me, not only will you get better performance, but you'll get longer run times with the higher efficiency too:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho....php?p=1620349

Here's what I would buy for myself today:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...case_Pack.html
+
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Inrunner.html
+
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._version_.html


As far as making a SCT410 more basher friendly, it really comes down to tuning the car to handle the jumps... chances are the rear is too soft so the back end of the car is bottoming out on you as you hit the lip of the jump, that chassis slap is likely causing the rear end to bounce up and cause the nose to dive. There's a fine line between going too stiff on the rear because then you'll give up rear traction too I'd start by raising your ride height and increase rear spring rate until you get the desired results. You can also slow down before the jump and then accelerate up the ramp as opposed to hitting the ramp while already at full throttle, this makes the car jump with nose up.

Hope this helps, other threads that might help too:
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho....php?p=1953528

and

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/sho....php?p=1976019
Jun 30, 2015, 09:59 AM
Registered User

Motor esc for hunter


Thanks Bill. I will start tuning the tekno. Since my Tekno came with a Tekin setup. I still have this xerun 3656 4000 Kv motor/esc setup. I was going to return it to Amain yesterday but decided to keep it. Thought was I would pay 10 bucks in shipping so may as well just keep and install in my Hunter, and have a quality motor backup. After reading your response I'm on the fence. Don't think I can run 4s on that setup. . What do you think the performance difference is between your suggestion and this? Thx much
Jun 30, 2015, 10:55 PM
Did I make the A Main?
bill_delong's Avatar
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Fortunately the Hunter is a little lighter so it won't be nearly as hard on the battery, but I wouldn't run any more than a 2S with a 4000kV motor. Expect to notice significant drop in punch with the battery somewhere between 6-9 months where most 4S setups will allow batteries to last closer to 3 years in most cases. Once you do the math on cost for replacing LiPo's you might realize that the cost for 4S will be cheaper on the long haul as well as up front... because a 20C-4S will be cheaper than a 60C-2S as well
Jul 01, 2015, 03:05 AM
Registered User

Good call


Good call. I was hoping to keep my shiny new xerun setup. But, I don't need it. Will return. Since I'm forced to use 2s for the techno I will allocate all my 2s batteries to that car. Looking forward to 4s on the basher. Appreciate the advice. Leaving me a lot of money and increasing my run times. Cheers
Jul 01, 2015, 10:02 AM
Did I make the A Main?
bill_delong's Avatar
Thread OP
If you were racing and your local track required 2S, then that would be the only reason I would ever use a 4000kV

Hopefully ROAR wakes up and realizes that if they want the SCT class to survive, then they need to migrate to 1/8 electronics with 4S. Most folks in my area have been turned off from SCT because they wind up being more expensive to maintain when compared to 1/8 Buggy due to batteries, plus limited run time... most 1/8 Buggy Mains are 15 min where SCT is lucky to see a 10 min main... when folks are paying the same money to race either class, they're more likely to run the class with the longer 15 min main, doh!
Jul 02, 2015, 12:51 AM
Registered User

4 pole Motor


Hi Bill - what about this 4 pole motor?

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_2100KV.html
Jul 02, 2015, 09:45 AM
Did I make the A Main?
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that can is 43mm is diameter... not sure if it will fit in the motor mount... I don't have a Hunter to confirm if it will fit which is why I recommended a 36mm diameter can to play it safe.... that motor won't have any problem fitting the Tekno and would be an excellent choice for that car
Jul 02, 2015, 06:05 PM
Registered User
Jack from DHK has been very responsive via email. Have a question in regarding the can size. Company seems reluctuant to advise on modifying with other companies' products. Strange thing is the pinion size on my Hunter BL is 11. Found out the Spur is 52. Don't know if they sell a smaller spur but it makes it confusing what type of pinion gear size is appropriate for 3s-4s given the spur size. Have an email in on the can and ability to buy smaller DHK spur gears. This is getting interesting
Jul 03, 2015, 10:21 PM
Registered User

Can diameter


This can diameter reads 38 in the product configuration tab. Am I missing something? I looked at the motor mount and it couldn't fit a 42mm motor. Dhk emailed me back and mentioned 40mm would likely be the max.

In any event, thanks for your help. Looking to pull he trigger on this motor and test out your 4s philosophy for sct racing with 1/8 electronics.... Getting some mixed feedback from others, as follows:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...a#post32017715


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