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Aug 22, 2015, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoangsta
I'm having problems with my printer printing mirrored on Y axis. I switched the endstop to the front and same thing.. "scratching my head"
Did you use TheRippa's version of Marlin? With that, the only thing that needs to change is the where the X endstop is plugged into on the RAMPS board. Move it so it is adjacent to the Y endstop. Then I think you need to tell Repetier Host to home at X max, but I could be wrong. I am running OctoPrint and slicing with Cura 15.02.

Finally, a successful ABS print. Now to print some replacement/upgrade parts.
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Aug 22, 2015, 08:22 PM
Registered User
Im using Folger Tech's for now. I will try The Rippa's config.h

Im also printing with ABS. Besides the awful smell, its pretty cool. The print is nothing near calibrated but this is my first printer and it's heck of a lot of fun to tinker with!
Last edited by Hoangsta; Aug 22, 2015 at 09:05 PM.
Aug 22, 2015, 09:15 PM
Registered User
TheRippa's version is based on the latest stable release of Marlin 1.0.2. The one Folger Tech packaged is an older version. TheRippa took the latest Marlin version and setup config.h using FT's settings. You don't want to use the config.h file with a different version of Marlin.
Aug 22, 2015, 09:59 PM
Registered User
Tim, yes I understand that. I used the folger's initially to get used to the firmware. Now that I can read it a bit better, Im going to reflash the firmware. Getting sick and tired of flipping the end stops and such and such. Bleh.. thanks for the info though Tim..
Aug 23, 2015, 10:38 AM
Who put that tree there?!?!
jabu32's Avatar
is there a difference in quality between the E3D V6 clone and the genuine one?
Aug 23, 2015, 10:52 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabu32
is there a difference in quality between the E3D V6 clone and the genuine one?
Google searches show that they are identical to some users. But the difference is, the E3D has a full metal heat break where as the clone has the PTFE insert in it. So if you plan on using filament other than ABS and PLA, then you're going to need to get the full metal break. High heat will melt the PTFE.
Aug 23, 2015, 11:14 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoangsta
Google searches show that they are identical to some users. But the difference is, the E3D has a full metal heat break where as the clone has the PTFE insert in it. So if you plan on using filament other than ABS and PLA, then you're going to need to get the full metal break. High heat will melt the PTFE.
That's similar to what I have found too. Some of the reviews of the clones suggest that the machining is rough and needs some polishing. As for the heartbreak, all metal spares can be had for less than $2.
Aug 23, 2015, 12:14 PM
Registered User
Correct me if I am wrong. The Y axis on mine, when I manually move it in Repetier. Pressing UP on the software moves the bed forward (away from the endstop) and when I press Down, the bed moves towards the endstop.. This is with the endstop mounted on the rear of the printer just like the instructions says...

If this is correct, then I see why my prints are printing mirrored..
Aug 23, 2015, 12:15 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimJC
That's similar to what I have found too. Some of the reviews of the clones suggest that the machining is rough and needs some polishing. As for the heartbreak, all metal spares can be had for less than $2.
Some guy was nice enough to buy one and try it out to give out a review about it. A bunch of people were raggin on him because he bought a clone.

Hey money don't grow on trees!
Aug 23, 2015, 04:24 PM
Who put that tree there?!?!
jabu32's Avatar
I am starting to make a list of things to order. ( i want to order everything at one time)

if you think i need to add something else then let me know. Thanks.

Folger Tech RepRap 2020 Prusa i3 Full Aluminum 3D Printer Kit
http://folgertech.com/collections/3d...3d-printer-kit

3D Printer 0.4mm Extruder Nozzle Print Head for MK8 Makerbot RepRap
http://folgertech.com/collections/ho...akerbot-reprap

Threaded M6 tube with PTFE/Teflon core for 1.75mm used on Prusa i3 Kit
http://folgertech.com/collections/ho...n-prusa-i3-kit

LCD Display controller 12864 Graphical + RepRap RAMPS 3D Printer Mendel
http://folgertech.com/collections/lc...inter-mendel-1

FAMI 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 213*200*3mm
http://www.amazon.com/FAMI-Printer-H.../dp/B00XTJZB8A

E3D V6 Hot End Full Kit 1.75mm 12V Bowden/RepRap 3d printer extruder parts accessories 0.2/0.3/0.4/0.5mm Nozzle
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/E3D-V...366290119.html

HATCHBOX 1.75mm Black ABS 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05mm
http://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-1-75m.../dp/B00J0H8EWA
Aug 23, 2015, 07:22 PM
Registered User
I dont know whats going on here. I'm doing the extruder calibration. I've calibrated the feed rate and its good. But I'm getting this weird ripple effect. I tried different layer thickness settings and what not. Leveled the bed countless times. Any help would be appreciated.

It seems like as if the distance between the nozzle and the layers are high. So instead of the print being printed onto the layers, it's just pouring on top of the layers.. Kinda like putting toothpaste on a tooth brush..

ABS
Bed: 90c
Extruder : 220c
Last edited by Hoangsta; Aug 23, 2015 at 07:28 PM.
Aug 23, 2015, 07:39 PM
Registered User
This is just a guess, but are the X carriage ends the same height above the frame (not build plate)? If not, get those to the same Z height and then you will need to re-level the bed. Be sure to unplug whichever Z motor you are adjusting, and turn the coupler by hand to rise/lower as needed.

Also, have you measured the diameter of your filament? If you have calipers, take 8-10 sample readings over the course of 1-2 meters of filament, remove the largest and smallest (if they vary wildly from the others) and average the numbers. Do not assume the filament is 1.75mm. If you have already done this, or don't have the means to measure the filament accurately, try raising the extrusion multiplier to 105%, see what it looks like, and adjust further from there.
Aug 23, 2015, 07:50 PM
Registered User
I actually did level Z with my digital caliper. But I only did it once. I'll try again later tonight when I get home. I hope to get it straightened out so I can go ahead and print out parts to clean up the electronics..

By looking at the parts printed, looks like both ends of the parts are level across X.

Thing is, it ripples throughout the whole print. I am thinking its the MK7 extruder. I took apart the extruder and cleaned the gears but it still extrudes wierd. It's like its extruding in a pulse motion. So you get a blob and then not enough filament constantly throughout the print.
Aug 23, 2015, 08:01 PM
Registered User
I didnt mess with the multiplier.. I'm gonna try that also..

When I received my filament, I did do a measurement and I got between 1.73 - 1.75... I'll have to try these measurements again
Aug 24, 2015, 12:03 PM
Registered User
Okay so before I jumped into doing any other kind of tinkering. I used the PLA sample that was provided with the printer and I must say, this thing is accurate as heck. So now I need to try to up the temperature on the nozzle for ABS..

PLA
Bed: 60
Nozzle: 190

I'm going to up the bed temp because the skirt wasn't sticking well. I also need to printout a fan mount. and lastly, I need to get a roll of PLA.


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