Newport 12 #20 build - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Sep 25, 2015, 02:42 PM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Even cheaper and effective is to use pieces of single pane window glass. Just keep cutting back the glass to maintain a nice sharp edge. Pull towards you as you would with a cabinet scraper. Does a great job smoothing epoxy too. Glass is free from local glass company dumpsters. Save the broken curved pieces for when you are scraping a curved surface.
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Sep 25, 2015, 11:37 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Ed,

I went looking for a cabinet scraper, but the local hardware store didn't have one. Turns out the utility knife blades work pretty well. They stay reasonably sharp for quite awhile and are cheap. Only issue is they get hot pretty quickly so are hard to hold on to.

Dick,

Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll try that next time.

Hatch covers are built and planked. Just need to scrape/sand them smooth. Might try and glass them up over the weekend as practice for glassing over the deck.

Kevin
Sep 26, 2015, 11:51 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Hatch covers planked and scraped/sanded. Got some of my carbon fiber veneer glued onto the deck and covers, then laminated some light glass cloth over the aft hatch cover with West 105/207. I like how it's coming out, but some may not agree. Thought the c/f would give a slightly "modern" touch to a classic hull.

Kevin
Sep 27, 2015, 06:31 PM
Registered User
Ed Crowell's Avatar
Kevin,

That looks nice. I like the color with the epoxy on it.

No sailboats at the regatta today and no wind. I left around 12:30.

Ed
Sep 27, 2015, 07:35 PM
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rsgault's Avatar
Kevin,

Looks good. Wasn't too sure about the CF strip when you mentioned it a while back but I am sold now.

Ed,

Bet it was very hot at the regatta today. I was in Temecula doing a side job for a friend and it was very warm there.

Rich
Sep 27, 2015, 11:49 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Ed,

Must have been hot out there with no wind.

Decided to glass over the main hatch cover today. I'm running low on my glass cloth and don't have enough to do the entire deck. I should have just planned a drive down to the supplier and picked it up in person, instead I decided to save a trip and have them mail it to me. Tracking said it was supposed to be delivered on Saturday, but never showed up. It got scanned back into the post office for some reason...who knows when I'll see my cloth.

I glassed the hatch cover this morning and left it in the shade to cure. Stupid me, I didn't keep an eye on it, and just my luck the shade moved and exposed the cover to the full heat of the sun. I've seen it before, the warming wood outgassed and managed to bubble quite a bit. Not sure if I'll sand it all off and start over, or repair it as best I can and call it good enough.

Also got the rest of my c/f veneer glued on. If my cloth ever shows up I'll glass the deck...and make SURE to move it into the A/C in the house as it cures!!!

Kevin
Last edited by poltergeist; Oct 01, 2015 at 11:03 PM.
Sep 28, 2015, 08:06 AM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Kevin,

Once it cures you should be able to sand it down to the glass and re-coat it.

Ed
Sep 28, 2015, 09:16 AM
Closed Account
If you're going to move the glass work into the house to cure, might I suggest you do the glassing in the house! Give all the materials the chance to temp and humidity stabilize and then do the glassing. This will virtually eliminate the chance of any problems like you've had.
Sep 28, 2015, 02:59 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Ed,

Only issue is the escaping air kinda lifted the glass cloth, causing some "white spots". I'm going to try a sand/recoat and see how it looks.

App...

I'm afraid to 'glass in the house for fear I'll make a mess. I've always been told the best thing to do is to move the object to a cooler "space" just after coating so that the wood "in-gasses" (I know....not a word) So far it has worked for me, I just got careless with the hatch cover....lesson learned.

Kevin
Sep 28, 2015, 03:15 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
Try pin holes in the lifted area and rub in some more epoxy. Use a plastic bag to cover it & weight it down while curing.

BP
Sep 28, 2015, 04:44 PM
Registered User
Dick L.'s Avatar
Or visit drug store and get some syringes. Then you can insert as much epoxy as needed. I get my old syringes from a local horse vet. He keeps the "sharps" end - I get the tube and plunger.
Sep 28, 2015, 06:01 PM
Registered User
rsgault's Avatar
I have some medical syringes if you need some, Kevin.
Sep 29, 2015, 01:10 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Thanks all for the advice. I think I'll invoke my "2 boatlength rule" on the main hatch cover. After sanding and another coat of West it doesn't look too bad. Not perfect, but that's what "the rule" is for!

My glass cloth showed up today, so managed to get the deck glassed over. Came out fairly smooth....and no air bubbles!!!!. It'll need a good sanding and a few more coats to level it out.

Sprayed my aft hatch cover with some Rustoleum gloss clear this morning. It came out fairly nice....I think I'll call it good enough.

Kevin
Sep 29, 2015, 02:06 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
Another trick for out gassing the bubbles. Run a hair dryer over the surface after the resin is applied. The bubbles will rise to the surface, then a final brush-out will remove them.

Or put it in a great big vacuum bag !

BP
Sep 29, 2015, 04:45 PM
Registered User
Dick L.'s Avatar
Carbon dioxide from exhaled breath will also cause bubbles to break. Have to do it when they appear, not moments before the epoxy "kicks off".


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