Newport 12 #20 build - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Feb 26, 2015, 10:02 AM
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Dick L.'s Avatar
Speaking of decks - I was introduced to a new technique for "scribing" deck boards from a single flat panel. A good woodworking friend demonstrated the process to me last night that he uses on custom cabinets, so thought I would post in case others might want to try it. I had never seen/thought of this. Process involves a straight edge and an Xacto knife with a modified blade.

Basic modification is to take a blade (like a # 11 as example) and grind the sharp edge flat (remove the sharp angle and basically make the cutting edge flat). Once you have a flat edge, you will have a very narrow chisel point and holding the blade as if you were cutting - you instead "push" the blade following the straight edge so that it acts like a chisel - making a very narrow (thickness of blade) groove in the wood. Push harder to make groove deeper - or make several passes. Eventually you will have to re-grind to keep the tip sharpened.

If you want curved deck beams, you can scribe the curve on a piece of 1/8" thick hard "Masonite/hardboard" and use that in place of the straight edge to scribe the curved "seam".

If using balsa or other thin soft wood, be careful not to push too hard, or you may cut right through it.

I HAVE NOT tried this method yet, but have an un-decked RG65 on which I may try a wooden deck using some Bird's Eye Maple veneer I have been saving.

Just thought the process might appeal to some.
Last edited by Dick L.; Feb 26, 2015 at 10:03 AM. Reason: spelling
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Feb 28, 2015, 09:51 PM
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Vince Hoffmann's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by poltergeist
Just need to decide whether to use straight planks the run parallel to the centerline, or curved planks that follow the sheer. Any opinions on good/bad of either method?
Straight planks are typically associated with work boats, and curved planks with sail or pleasure boats. I think it all depends upon what you want and how much work you want to put into it. Both look very good. My N12 has straight planks and I love the way it looks.
Mar 10, 2015, 11:04 PM
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Vince Hoffmann's Avatar
How is the boat coming along?
Mar 10, 2015, 11:52 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Hi Vince,

Kinda on hold for the moment. I've been in touch with Bob McClung, and he apparently has all the parts (bulkheads, rudder shoe, templates etc) that I need to get this boat put together. I'm waiting to hear back from him, but I figure using his parts will speed up my build, rather than me making stuff from "scratch."

I'm still wavering back and forth on whether to use the fiberglass deck that I have, or to go with a wood deck. At the moment I'm thinking of using the 'glass deck and "trimming" it (like toe-rails etc) with the wood that I have.

Kevin
Apr 14, 2015, 12:49 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Well...I've called Bob McClung several times, he has told me he has all the interior wood parts, rudder shoe, etc in boxes in his garage. I gather he's pretty much out of the model boat "business" and I guess doesn't have the time or inclination to go through his "stuff" to find parts to sell me.

So that's OK, I've just decided to carry on with the bulkhead patterns that Vince H was kind enough to post here, and I'll go with a planked over plywood deck. It should make the boat much prettier than using the (not very attractive in my opinion) fiberglass deck.

So I've got the two main bulkheads built and dry fitted, along with the mast step stiffener and chainplate reinforcements. I also built an aft bulkhead that will be epoxied in securely, and my plan is to span between the aft and mid bulkheads with a 1/2" carbon fiber tube down either side of the main hatch whose purpose is to act as a ridged carry handle so that the boat can be launched by hand with the main hatch off.

So what I need to decide is how big to make the main hatch. It needs to be long enough to allow room to insert the ballast easily, but not extend too far aft and interfere with where the mainsheet exit goes through the deck. I'd also like the hatch to be wide enough for easy access to the hinged radio board, but not so wide that it might take water in when heeled in strong winds. Any of you Newport 12 guys care to measure how big your main hatch is, and how far aft of the mast step your mainsheet exit is. Not sure how far aft I can move the mainsheet exit and still have enough travel with the swing arm in the boat.

Appreciate any opinions/input.

Kevin
Apr 14, 2015, 02:50 PM
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Vince Hoffmann's Avatar
Looking good Kevin!
I made my main hatch as large as possible and stretches about 8" wide by 10" long between the mast step and rear brace. I've got a picture around here somewhere...
Apr 14, 2015, 10:32 PM
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rsgault's Avatar
Kevin,

The front of the main hatch opening on #207 is 32" from the bow and measures 13 1/2" x 5". The mainsheet exit is 47 1/4" from the bow.

Rich
Apr 15, 2015, 10:24 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Vince:

Thanks for the info. I've been pouring over your build log for inspiration. Thanks for measuring the size of your hatch!

Rich:

I was thinking of going 6" wide on the hatch, but wasn't sure it would be wide enough for access to hinge the radio board. I suppose I should build the board before I finalize the hatch.

Thanks for the info gents!!!

Kevin
Apr 20, 2015, 12:04 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Didn't accomplish too much today. All is just cut out and temporarily dry fit. Decided on 6" by 16" for the main hatch. A little smaller than the size of the hatch molded into the fiberglass deck that I have (but am not using).

Got my CF carry handles mocked-up, as well as the basic framing for the hatch. At the moment my radio board is 6" by 12" but in reality it could probably be cut down some. Decided to mount the board on stanchions, similar to how Vince H did his here. I'll use brass hinges on one side and probably threaded studs/knurled nuts to hold down the other side. I think I've got the radio board too low in the boat though. Anyone have opinions or measurements on how far below the deck the radio board should be?
Apr 20, 2015, 10:13 AM
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Vince Hoffmann's Avatar
I don't recommend threaded studs and wing nuts. I cut mine off after the sheet got tangled in the wing nuts. I use two pieces of 4" long x 1" wide heavy duty velcro to hold the board down, which has worked well so far. A positive latch/lock that does not stick up above the board would be better.

Another option for you will be to build a shield to prevent the sheet line from getting caught on anything that may be sticking up from your board, including the winch servo itself.
May 05, 2015, 12:51 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Well, I've got the bulkheads glued in, as well as the main hatch framed, my C/F carry handles installed, and the electronics board built and installed. On Vince's suggestion, I decided to not use threaded nuts to hold down the starboard side of the board. Instead I loosely copied my brother's Newport #207 and made some spring loaded catches. Hopefully the sheets won't catch on the levers that stick out of the underside of the board. I may have to make a plastic guard for them. Also, I noticed that the preinstalled rudder tube was not on centerline at the top. I managed to get the old tube out by heating it with a soldering iron, then I enlarged the hole through the hull, and clamped a new tube straight in the boat. Mixed up a batch on West System with 403 filler and glued the tube back in...straight this time!!! Still need to make a brace to support the top of the tube, and frame an aft hatch, as well as a few more deck beams and the king planks fore and aft.

Kevin
May 05, 2015, 08:56 AM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Nice clean installation.

Ed
May 26, 2015, 12:00 AM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
Got the deck framing pretty much done, and coated all the interior wood with thinned West System epoxy. Also got my combined rudder post brace/rudder servo mount built and installed, as well as getting the sail servo recessed into the electronics board.

I noticed a crack in the deck flange at the bow. When I ground into it to determine the extent of the crack, I found a whole bunch of bondo "gluing" the two halves of the hull together at the deck flange. Not sure if the hull was made this way, or whether the guy who painted it black did it. Either way, I ground out all of the bondo and re-bonded the hull seam with West and 403 filler. Pretty sure it's not going to crack again!

Next up I need to finalize the sheeting inside the boat (it looks like the jib sheet will rub on the main bulkheads, debating whether to mount a deflector block down low under the jib sheet thru deck) then deck over the boat with 1/32" ply...then the fun of planking the deck begins!!!

Kevin
May 26, 2015, 09:43 AM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Looks very sturdy.

Ed
Last edited by Ed Crowell; Jun 25, 2015 at 07:35 PM.
Jun 25, 2015, 03:55 PM
Kevin Gault
poltergeist's Avatar
As they say, anything worth doing is worth doing several times until you get it right!

I tried to make a rudder shoe out of wood with a brass insert for the rudder shaft (similar to what Vince Hoffman made for his Newport) but it was too fragile. I ended up making one out of 1/4" G10 laminate. Cut to shape and then "Flintstone" machined and drilled to the proper angle, with a brass insert for the rudder. When I tried to attach the shoe to the bottom of the keel, I encountered a broken-off screw that someone had left behind, so had to drill that out and make new threads with thick West System and release wax on the screw threads.

Only trouble was, when I finally got the shoe fit and screwed to the bottom of the keel, the rudder would bind. I ended up heating and extracting the rudder tube that I'd previously epoxied into the boat, and made a new tube with soldered in brass bearing inserts. After cutting out my rudder servo platform and making a fixture to hold the rudder tube and lower shoe in alignment, I glued it all back in with West epoxy.

So now I've finally got a rudder that fits properly and turns smoothly with no binding!!!
Last edited by poltergeist; Jun 25, 2015 at 05:09 PM.


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