Originally Posted by airbusfo

For those of you who have made a wing attachment bolt at the fuse, are you still using the small screws into the tube on the wings if you remove your wings for transport?

Wondering if adding the fuse bolt does away with the need for those screws.

Thanks
Brad

This is a great question and was a concern for many of the folks in this thread
If you search "Blind" you will find results of folks using blind nuts to help secure the wing
Page 315 has a photo as well, and there are other photos you will find through the search on this topic
Hope this helps

Originally Posted by rking3

This is a great question and was a concern for many of the folks in this thread
If you search "Blind" you will find results of folks using blind nuts to help secure the wing
Page 315 has a photo as well, and there are other photos you will find through the search on this topic
Hope this helps

Thanks
I did read that, and will be implementing a variety of those ideas.

I just couldn't tell if using the wing bolt method negates the need for the small wing screws.
As someone else mentioned, I guess I could do it and then rotate if/when it gets loose over time.
Thanks
Brad

One other question..

I'm about to buy my lipos for an 8s setup. Do most guys prefer around 4500mah vs 5000 because of the added weight? I'm looking at 4500, 5000, or even 5800 but not sure if staying lower is better because of the weight and CG

Originally Posted by airbusfo

One other question..

I'm about to buy my lipos for an 8s setup. Do most guys prefer around 4500mah vs 5000 because of the added weight? I'm looking at 4500, 5000, or even 5800 but not sure if staying lower is better because of the weight and CG

I am using 8s 5000 roaring top
The lipos already slightly push in the inlet ducting thats in front of the fan
dont think I can fit in 5800 and I couldn't push the CG any further back if I did add weight

Originally Posted by airbusfo

Thanks
I did read that, and will be implementing a variety of those ideas.

I just couldn't tell if using the wing bolt method negates the need for the small wing screws.
As someone else mentioned, I guess I could do it and then rotate if/when it gets loose over time.
Thanks
Brad

I ran mine on 10S, 12S and K45 with nothing but the small servo style screws holding the wings in place....never had an issue, but never took them on and off regularly either.

Thanks to all of you that reached out so far - only have a few 90mm Mini Avanti's left on the incoming container. Get one of the last few before they are sold out!

Neil
www.sebartusa.com
sebartusa@gmail.com
443-961-7050

Originally Posted by airbusfo

For those of you who have made a wing attachment bolt at the fuse, are you still using the small screws into the tube on the wings if you remove your wings for transport?

Wondering if adding the fuse bolt does away with the need for those screws.

Thanks
Brad

Sorry I'm late to the party on this question and it appears answered but it never hurts to have some backing as well. On post 4970, page 332, I showed a few pictures of how I attached my wings which was also with the blind nut and bolt through the fuse. I do not use a screw into the carbon spar at all. The bolt is the only thing that holds each wing half on. The anti-rotation/locator pins handle the torsional load on the wings so the only thing these do is hold the wings to the side of the fuse and there is little to no force trying to pull the wings away. We do this exact thing in our F3A planes as well using 1/4x20 nylon bolts and nuts. I used much smaller for the Mini Avanti.

I'm currently building another one of these (the Yellow/Red/Black version) and will be putting in a K45G3 turbine. I plan to use the exact same technique there as well. Hope this helps.

Scott

Thanks Scott!
That is exactly the confirmation that I was looking for.

I finished my build the other day, just waiting for lipos to arrive -- and for our field to reopen.

Gary at efflux has been outstanding, and helped me with different issues, as this is my first EDF.
I bought the Schubler/HET combo for 8s.
Can't wait to fly it!

No problem. You'll love this little guy. Don't push your flight times....3.5-4 mins. and then check. Leave enough for a few go-arounds the first flight. Ailerons are pretty hot if you go with the settings listed in this thread so, if you are more of a pattern dude, make sure to have those low rates ready. It's not THAT fast to make it too hot but it'll roll, that's for sure. You'll want aileron differential as well (this can be set up later). It barrel rolls quite a bit. Mainly, enjoy! This is a great jet.

I finished my yellow Avanit S.
I used both a bolt tapped in the wing spar and a wing root bolt. Both cases were 3mm cap screws with over-sized aluminum washers.
I added a plywood reinforcement to the wing root.
The carbon joiner spar has wood end plugs. The bolts go thru them. I tapped the hole and hit it with thin CA to make the threads last longer.

I took a belt & suspenders approach because I've got time to kill while waiting to fly it.

My 6S JP Fan made 3.8kg thrust on the test stand. My Avanti weighs in at 4.1kg. CG was spot on with the battery at the back of the plywood tray.



I'm making airplane noises, wising the virus away.

Ahh...I like that double method!!

Originally Posted by jimbo12

I finished my yellow Avanit S.
I used both a bolt tapped in the wing spar and a wing root bolt. Both cases were 3mm cap screws with over-sized aluminum washers.
I added a plywood reinforcement to the wing root.
The carbon joiner spar has wood end plugs. The bolts go thru them. I tapped the hole and hit it with thin CA to make the threads last longer.

I took a belt & suspenders approach because I've got time to kill while waiting to fly it.

My 6S JP Fan made 3.8kg thrust on the test stand. My Avanti weighs in at 4.1kg. CG was spot on with the battery at the back of the plywood tray.



I'm making airplane noises, wising the virus away.

Fantastic job, man. Very well done.

Originally Posted by jimbo12

I finished my yellow Avanit S.
I used both a bolt tapped in the wing spar and a wing root bolt. Both cases were 3mm cap screws with over-sized aluminum washers.
I added a plywood reinforcement to the wing root.
The carbon joiner spar has wood end plugs. The bolts go thru them. I tapped the hole and hit it with thin CA to make the threads last longer.

I took a belt & suspenders approach because I've got time to kill while waiting to fly it.

My 6S JP Fan made 3.8kg thrust on the test stand. My Avanti weighs in at 4.1kg. CG was spot on with the battery at the back of the plywood tray.



I'm making airplane noises, wising the virus away.

Excellent Job! Since you have some time, you might want to think about adding some FOD protection in the wheel wells?

I was thinking the wheel openings and duct openings inside the fuselage could use improved openings. The sharp edges of both are lead to increased airflow losses. I'd have to carve them from balsa, which looks like no fun. But perhaps I'll take it on.

FOD protection is not a bad idea. I fly from a paved strip, but one can never tell what's on it. Would it be better to put the screen on the inlet of the fan?

I just finished flight #6 on mine. I also used the "blind-nut thru the root rib" wing attachment.....no problems. The K45 is a little much, I think a 30 would be the perfect turbine for this plane. I also added JP brakes.

I'm very happy with the way it flies, but disappointed in the stock struts. Mine have bent twice already without a hard landing. I just ordered the upgraded struts from Efflux. Overall, a great little plane.