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Apr 17, 2015, 03:19 PM
Alchemist
nitewatchman's Avatar
Sorry for your loss.

I can see your carnage but this does point out one of the strengths of the design. Just print another one! Looking at the break though the shells look pretty thin and the inside a little sparse. I have printed mine at 100% with 8 shell layers. While 100% is 100% the additional shell thickness tends to reinforce the infill and areas around holes I believe. Weight difference is only a few grams.

The bigger question however is why did it bounce? Can you put your finger on any single cause? Could it be something like the NAZA allergy to sunlight (I think that you are using an APM controller)?

I am getting closer to the faithful day (motors arrived yesterday) and want to learn from those that go before.

gary
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Apr 17, 2015, 04:01 PM
Professional Geek
cozmogeek's Avatar
I tried to use use alt-hold (to avoid breaking it lol) and the barometer was making it bounce up and down. It was slightly windy. Unfortunately it was already broken by the time I realized why it was acting that way. I did at the end however flip it back to stabilize and land it nice and softly but the damage was already done. I tried to land it in alt-hold mode actually and it landed, then flew back up like 4' by itself then dropped again like a rock lol it was pretty horrific to watch. My friend was like "WHOAA... go easy!!" "THAT'S NOT ME" I have it all on video, you'll see.

I already printed the replacement frame piece and yeah it was pretty weak you can tell. It split on the layers just like all the other orange ABS parts i've broken. The replacement is 100% solid orange PLA. I ended up gluing the canopy back together which I'm hoping will be fine.
Last edited by cozmogeek; Apr 17, 2015 at 05:03 PM.
Apr 17, 2015, 11:12 PM
Professional Geek
cozmogeek's Avatar
Got everything all fixed up. I might try another flight tomorrow. I'm starting on my mobius camera to gopro project, which is another thing made by rchobbysuk actually.

Fixing this the 2nd time tonight made me realize that this being printed is a huge advantage. If I had to order replacement parts they'd be expensive and take forever to get here.
Apr 18, 2015, 02:24 AM
Registered User
Wow Fragmaster, that took some effort, but a great Thanks You for the files. I have not yet started to print, because I accidentally fried my printer controller. am waiting for my new controller.

Fragmaster, on your CAD files, did you look at the issue of the support rod pivot point by moving them 2.5mm inward and 2.5mm down from the where the original hole is in the STL file?

I plan to start my build as soon as my printer is up and running. I am also more than willing to help in documenting or in any way possible - because you guys are great!
Apr 18, 2015, 03:35 AM
Registered User
First off I want to say thanks Cozmogeek..I ordered all the screw, bolts, carbon and other items. I also just received a package with my motors, esc's and my LED's....and here lies the issue. I can see a relief for the LED and I also printed out the cap that goes over it; however I now see that usually the motor wires go through that hole in the front. If I had that exact same size hole on top just a bit behind where the motor sits I could run them there. But there is no hole. Before I redesign it does anyone know if something already exists?
Apr 18, 2015, 05:38 AM
9W2DLR
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fragmaster
BELOW ARE THE CAD MODELS I MADE

If you are printing your frame for the first time, I suggest you use my STL files because they have some improvements over the ones you bought. The improvements are small, but they make assembly MUCH simpler and the frame a bit stronger. The frame is now symmetric! And the holes are oriented perfectly. Updated foot files are SO much easier to screw together since I corrected the countersink for the rear holes (another update will be out shortly).


Files that have been improved:
canopy_nose_fpv and canopy_base
framework_main_body_bottom_(rev1) <-- Now is (rev2)
framework_receiver_shelf <-- Now symetric holes for 30mm standoff
wormdrive_endstop_holder_(rev2) <-- Now endstop screw holes have slots so you can remove the screws!


STL Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qobfv6hru...dJ_bkHtZa?dl=0

STEP 214 Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8jd7oqak1...pMk7N9HUa?dl=0

IGES Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ppt3x6nko...YH5AyW0Wa?dl=0

PRT Files
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fnzj8temf...zTiNsl8la?dl=0


Helifrek, please pin this post to your first post, please.

I'll add details later! 75 degrees out with no wind, I must fly!!!
Ok i got the motivation to print this again, good test for my newly arrive flashforge dream
Apr 18, 2015, 07:37 AM
Registered User
Firstly, congrats to everyone who's made their first flight! I'm about to order motors and would appreciate some advice. What are your thoughts on this 480KV motor + 20A ESC combo?

http://www.banggood.com/Emax-MT3110-...-p-946412.html

http://www.banggood.com/Sunrise-BLHE...-p-958350.html

or should I rather go for these bigger, more expensive 480KV motors with 30A ESCs under the motors as per mod in this thread?

http://www.banggood.com/Sunnysky-X41...l-p-78198.html
Apr 18, 2015, 07:42 AM
Destroyer of airframes
RTRyder's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by nambass
Wow Fragmaster, that took some effort, but a great Thanks You for the files. I have not yet started to print, because I accidentally fried my printer controller. am waiting for my new controller.

Fragmaster, on your CAD files, did you look at the issue of the support rod pivot point by moving them 2.5mm inward and 2.5mm down from the where the original hole is in the STL file?

I plan to start my build as soon as my printer is up and running. I am also more than willing to help in documenting or in any way possible - because you guys are great!
A couple quick notes, first moving the inner pivot 2.5 x 2.5 mm isn't the optimum location, I moved it again and now it seems to be perfect. I don't have the measurements at hand, can post them later, but the pivot wound up much lower than I originally moved it.

The other thing is the wormdrive holder should be installed with the hole for the arm brackets lower rather than higher, this gives the frame more overall height with the arms down and puts the arms right where they need to be when fully up. Initially I found mine had oscillations at the motors that I couldn't quite tune out of it using flight controller gains. The fix was to limit the height the arms reached in the up position by flipping the wormdrive bracket and adjusting the limit switches along with moving the support arm pivot to get the correct motor camber from fully down to fully up. For this frame to fly correctly the motors need to tilt outward about 5 to 6 degrees, less and it won't be nearly as stable in flight as it needs to be, more does nothing as far as I can tell except maybe using more power as now the motors are fighting each other by pulling outward more than needed.

I've run two full packs through mine since making the changes and it flys rock solid and smooth now, the smoothest I've ever seen a large frame fly with any DJI flight controller.
Apr 18, 2015, 08:49 AM
Professional Geek
cozmogeek's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbrujo
First off I want to say thanks Cozmogeek..I ordered all the screw, bolts, carbon and other items. I also just received a package with my motors, esc's and my LED's....and here lies the issue. I can see a relief for the LED and I also printed out the cap that goes over it; however I now see that usually the motor wires go through that hole in the front. If I had that exact same size hole on top just a bit behind where the motor sits I could run them there. But there is no hole. Before I redesign it does anyone know if something already exists?
I haven't tried adding LEDs yet but I know someone else pointed out that issue before. I haven't printed the LED holders yet so I'm not sure what the best solution would be. I imagine it involves a cylinder and a subtract operation though.
Apr 18, 2015, 11:04 AM
Registered User
Hey I'm at Lowe's and I need to know what size bolt to get to put my Multistar 4108 motors attached. I went to put them on the bolts that came with however they appear that they are too short if they were just a little longer they would work. But I'm at Lowe's right now and I don't have the book with me so if anybody is seeing this if you can answer quickly I'd appreciate it if not I'll just have to make another trip no big deal.
Apr 18, 2015, 12:13 PM
Registered User
Mr.RC-CAM's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by helifrek
If you guys haven't noticed, I completely re-did the original post. Tell me what you guys think, PM me suggestions. I have re-posted some pictures on there as well, I posted some videos as well. PM me if you want your pictures or videos listed on there.
That is fantastic, thanks for revising the post. It might help to add a link to the rchobbysuk site.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RTRyder
A couple quick notes, first moving the inner pivot 2.5 x 2.5 mm isn't the optimum location, I moved it again and now it seems to be perfect. I don't have the measurements at hand, can post them later, but the pivot wound up much lower than I originally moved it.

The other thing is the wormdrive holder should be installed with the hole for the arm brackets lower rather than higher, this gives the frame more overall height with the arms down and puts the arms right where they need to be when fully up.
My new bearing block has the hole positions recommended by helifreak (4mm down, 2mm over). Is that about the same place your holes were moved to?

I had a 50-50 chance to get the worm block right and lost that bet. Mine needs to flip over. I'll correct that when I install the new rear bearing block that has the revised pivot hole locations.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbrujo
I can see a relief for the LED and I also printed out the cap that goes over it; however I now see that usually the motor wires go through that hole in the front. If I had that exact same size hole on top just a bit behind where the motor sits I could run them there. But there is no hole.
I had to redesign the motor mount to accommodate my HK 4108-480KV screw holes. You can see where I put a new hole on top for its wires. That little change worked out fantastic for me. You can see the details in post #18 of my build log: http://www.rc-cam.com/forum/index.ph...ed-quadcopter/

- Thomas
Last edited by Mr.RC-CAM; Apr 18, 2015 at 12:19 PM.
Apr 18, 2015, 12:44 PM
Destroyer of airframes
RTRyder's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.RC-CAM
My new bearing block has the hole positions recommended by helifreak (4mm down, 2mm over). Is that about the same place your holes were moved to?

I had a 50-50 chance to get the worm block right and lost that bet. Mine needs to flip over. I'll correct that when I install the new rear bearing block that has the revised pivot hole locations.

- Thomas
Probably close enough to work. Since I've changed so much of the design the pivot points on mine might need to be different than those measurements, with mostly stock pieces I'd go with the 2mm and 4mm first and see how it works. One of the differences on my frame is the adjustable support rods I'm using, makes setup easier as well as being able to compensate for slight misalignment of the holes drilled through the arm tubes to locate the support rod bracket. Accurately drilling multiple round tubes to exactly the same spot is difficult at best without a jig to locate the tube in for drilling so being able to shorten or lengthen the support rod to compensate saves a lot of headaches when you finally get it in the air and find out the camber angle of the motors is different side to side.

My entire lower frame is four pieces in total, not that I couldn't print the original because of it's size, I did it so making changes in certain areas didn't require printing an entire lower frame every time I made a change. At some point I may reassemble the parts back into a single piece, or as much as that is possible and still be able to print.

Gimbal support pieces on the printer and computer screen as I type...
Apr 18, 2015, 12:54 PM
I buy ikarus piccolo/Eco8 stuf
helifrek's Avatar
Thread OP
Oops, didn't know I forgot to put the rchobbysuk link! I will try and fix that later on today.

I got some good vids and pictures for you guys today! This was about 20 min ago!
Apr 18, 2015, 02:24 PM
Registered User
Mr RC - cam thank you so much I'm on my way home right now and I'm going to print four of those out. just curious has everyone printed them out with a hundred percent infill because I have printed them out with 20% infill and they seem really sturdy on the z18 using my PLA
Apr 18, 2015, 02:36 PM
I buy ikarus piccolo/Eco8 stuf
helifrek's Avatar
Thread OP
I think I printed mine at 30% and I haven't had an issue!


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