Vince, I can tell by your response that you know a lot about wiring these motors, esc's and regulators etc. But, you lost me in the second sentence of your response ie, How do you "take battery power direct to YEP esc and then power bus (?) from there to RX and servos? I guess what I'm trying to figure out how to wire the YEP 7 esc and regulator to the RX? I know the voltage/amps have to be reduced to power the RX and servos and still have enough volts/amps to power the motor. But how? There has to be a logical series of steps to arrive at a safe setup. Thanks for your response and am looking forward to hear more....

Take a look at the pictures on Hobbyking. For the YEP7a your battery will connect to the pads where the red + and brown - wires are connected. On the battery side of the BEC connect the red wire to the same pad as the red wire, and the black wire to the same pad as the brown wire. On the receiver side of the BEC connect the red wire to the + side of the receiver, and the black wire to the - side of the receiver. Connect a wire from where the orange wire is connected to the BEC to the signal pin of the throttle channel on the receiver.

A picture is worth a 1000 words! All you need to do is cut the power wires from Yep to receiver and insert the regulator. I've never done this as I have always used servos that could run on 2s power. Originally they were the D47's and currently Turnigy 1290's.
Where is our regulator expert when we need him; Finnspeed?

Finnspeeds wiring diagram:

Yes, the "Blue Arrow Ultra Micro regulator" connects the same as my latest version of picoBEC. The difference to the older model Vince attached above is that there is no connection point for the signal wire. This means just that the throttle signal must be wired straight from the ESC to the RX.

TN Walker, if you are unsure that you got the wiring right, just post a picture here and someone will check the wiring for you before connecting the battery.

Sorry for the delay. Thanks Vince and Finnspeed. Now I "see the light"! I will proceed cautiously and feel more secure than I did prior to both of your responses.

Do you have a link to an ordering site or anything?

I've been flying for 41 years, but know little to nothing about this type of flying and equipment.
I'm getting the precision bug again, and have decided to make an entry level with a twisted Hobby Clik.

I've resolved myself to the fact that gathering these types of components will have to be from many
sources to gain weight conscious savings, and not with a combo type offering.

If any of you fine gents is willing to post links to the things I need to get started for a plane like the "Clik"
I'd be willing to offer assistance with say the Taranis, the Flex Aura8 stabilizer, giant scale questions, gas engine
woes and the like.

Motor, servos, battery, wire, ESC and all the rest.

I can't wait to get started, and can take my time since I am a real neophyte here.

Dave Lockhart and Lee Morey are within driving distance of me, but I've gotten no response from a PM or email to
Dave, and a PM to Lee.

Thanks for any help and ideas
Bob
NJ USA

Bob,

Good to see the enthusiasm for F3P!

Sorry I didn't get back to you within the day, but I am a little busy prepping for the World Champs next week.

If you source all the lightest equipment and build the lightest plane, I really don't think you will be happy flying it outside. Modern F3P planes are so lightly loaded that most indoor venues have substantial turbulence.

You are correct, there is not really a one stop shop in the USA for all items on a modern F3P plane. The Clik is a good starting point and using the lightest recommended equipment, you should be able to stay under 4 oz.

I don't know of any planes currently for sale in our area. Indoor sites are extremely difficult to find. I do most of my flying at the lakehurst hangar....Check www.ecim.net for info.

Thanks Dave
Keep me in mind if anything breaks.

Take care
Bob

Back to programming the YEP. You can find a tutorial on YouTube by Gary Quiring. It's pretty clear. Without it I would have been lost. Good luck.

Originally Posted by bob_nj

Do you have a link to an ordering site or anything?

I've been flying for 41 years, but know little to nothing about this type of flying and equipment.
I'm getting the precision bug again, and have decided to make an entry level with a twisted Hobby Clik.

I've resolved myself to the fact that gathering these types of components will have to be from many
sources to gain weight conscious savings, and not with a combo type offering.

If any of you fine gents is willing to post links to the things I need to get started for a plane like the "Clik"
I'd be willing to offer assistance with say the Taranis, the Flex Aura8 stabilizer, giant scale questions, gas engine
woes and the like.

Motor, servos, battery, wire, ESC and all the rest.

I can't wait to get started, and can take my time since I am a real neophyte here.

Dave Lockhart and Lee Morey are within driving distance of me, but I've gotten no response from a PM or email to
Dave, and a PM to Lee.

Thanks for any help and ideas
Bob
NJ USA

The NG Clik is heavy compared to competition F3Ps but will carry weight very well. The Twisted Hobby power system for the Clik is a perfect balance of weight and power. Order that system and you will be happy with your Clik. I've been flying that combination for two winters in a very small gym - 45 feet by 69 feet with a 16 foot ceiling.

Thanks
I should be finished assembling my Clik today.
I ordered the TH power system on the first go around.
I ordered two Cliks initially with the first one to just get one flying, and the second
as a weight savings experiment.
I should have a weight on it a little later.

As luck would have it, a ready to fly Clik presented itself during the course of my build so I now will have two ready to fly, and one in the box.
Can't have enough Cliks I guess.
Now I just have to wait for better weather.
All of the good weather was here while I wasn't ready )--:

Take care
Bob

OK, the build on my new Clik is complete.
The Clik I bought weighs 115 grams with no battery, the one I just finished building weighs
98 grams with no battery.
Waiting for flyable weather.
I fly my UMX Extras in the cul de sac in the early mornings and late evenings.
The plan is to try the Clik in the same airspace.
We'll see

Take care
Bob

FACT: one cannot have two many Clik! I know of no other plane that has been around for even a fraction of the time the Clik! has and none garner as many compliments for how well it flys. I have a Nano at 12" ws(still trying to get it to fly well, need more power), a V2 at 110gr and a 52" giant built from plans kindly furnished by David Kyjovsky(the designer, with the caveat I not build a normal one, which I have adhered to ). A few pics during construction- thats a queen size bed its on. I later added the LE saw tooth between the SFG and a few bits of EPP. That one is now going to be 9 yrs old in Sept. somehow I've never tweaked it. Fuselage is two layers bluecore covered by 1mm depron, wing, crutch and elevator 1 layer bluecore