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Trev, (3D Print World Aylesbury) what would be the chance of you doing a filament sampler sort of offer?
Maybe 100gms each of different types of filament/colours. needent even be on reels, just loose coiled, or maybe inc. one empty reel. Would be a good intro into how to use them, and give us the chance to make some small items in different stuff without having to buy 1kg reel. |
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I found this earlier, awesome selection of filaments! I can see me buying a few different ones for christmas to have a play with! |
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Cheers Matt, didnt know that as I've not looked at ordering yet, but will soon.
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The website was having an issue with adding the shipping but I sorted this via a phone call to Print World. |
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you started out using temps that we more like PLA not ABS. ABS has to be hotter on the bed to make it stick. ABS also has to be at least 230 ( I found my Hux' needed to be set nearer to 245 on the first ABS reel that I tried). I settled around 235- 240 on my Huxley. The Da Vinci seems to get away with lower temps (but some of the forums suggest that their displayed numbers are miles from reality). Over hangs:- You are expecting far too much from ABS. You have to keep it warm to stop it shrinking while you print. Therefore it will be too soft to hold a steep over hang. If you exceed 45 degrees you should think about adding support for it. |
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Name: Mitch
Location: High Wycombe Printer: Da Vinci (Had A Huxley before) Preferred Material: ABS Open to making stuff for others: 50/50 Thingiverse name: Chilternflyer |
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Now that I'm locked into a commercial machine I miss the idea of tinkering with it. That said: there are several enthusiasts that are already talking about putting E3D heads on them. I want an E3D Chimera on mine with two bowden driven extruders |
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It actually works very well because I've bought stuff to try that wouldn't have bought if it had to be a 1KG reel! |
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You are more than welcome to come round and tinker with the Hux any time you like.
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Morning gents. A little late to the party I see. Still, second on the list of printing peeps in post 1 . I saw mention of acetone vapour bathing and thought I would share my technique and equiptment. I'm currently using (to great effect) the old electric tomee tippie baby bottle steriliser, it has a lid and a 60 second timer with a stat in the base (basically a large volume low liquid content kettle).
The lid has some vent holes in it, I'll run wire through these to hang the parts from (usually hung from an unimportant/obscured location on the print) after a througher session with some 120 grit. Don't blast all the dust you get off though, knock off the loose stuff but the bits in the gaps will rejoin the main print. 2 shot glasses (or however much I feel like squirting in) of acetone, you'll get a feel for it. Hit the button, wait for the 60 seconds to elapse. By this point the steryliser has a dense acetone fog inside, I'll lift a corner of the lid and blow in gently to circulate the fog around the part. After 90 seconds, pull the part and set it aside. Best not to leave it in there for too long as if the acetone covers it for too long the part will deform or take 9 years to reharden. Hanging it up to dry out is never a bad idea. Don't feel that if you missed a bit or a side, or the finish isn't flat enough, that you can shove it in again straight away, that'll make things worse. Let it harden, sand and vapour again. The process can be repeated as much as you like. Just try to keep exposure below 2 mins. I've had a few larger prints that needed doing one way up, and then the other. I've been meaning to do a video on the process for ages, I may well do one soon. CJ |
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