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Nov 21, 2014, 09:49 PM
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Build Log

Building a Century Swift NX Real Deal N4022E Jet Ranger


...

https://buildingswiftnxjetranger.blogspot.com/
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Aug 15, 2018 at 09:10 PM.
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Feb 22, 2017, 09:56 PM
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Well let's hope the gate keepers at Horizon get them straightened out and returned to you ASAP ! I think our sunshine (like on your box) is coming to an end - time for rain & snow & cold - BOO!

I mounted the other step rail tonight and glued the round caps on the skids before I lost them The step rails are screwed on so they can be removed as needed.

Then I discovered the black set of TRex600 struts are slightly narrower (like 1/4") but around 3/4" taller I assumed the only difference was color. This will definitely help keep that tail out of the grass ... Time to see what a black set of landing gear looks like ... I'll turn the Align logo around to the inside this time

I hope that chicken-dance doesn't rear it's ugly head ...
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Oct 28, 2017 at 11:24 AM.
Feb 23, 2017, 06:32 PM
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I drilled and mounted the black struts and used the skids from the original eBay Swift 16 I first bought back in April of 2012.

I like the additional height. The color matches the bottom of the fuselage (black). Some step rails would enhance their looks. But they seem to be a little more flimsy than the white ones - hmmm ...

I see these TRex 600 curved struts are almost impossible to come by these days (that's the story for most of the parts on this heli it seems)
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Oct 28, 2017 at 11:24 AM.
Feb 23, 2017, 08:28 PM
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i have some of those old struts on my 600, they have a lot more give than the newer style.
Feb 23, 2017, 08:38 PM
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Okay - good, it's not just my imagination The extra give makes me a little nervous ... but I like how they look.

And thanks again for the tail case, it arrived today. I'll be disassembling everything again this weekend and will check to see how it works out back there.
Feb 23, 2017, 11:11 PM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
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John:

You are doing a GREAT job of sorting this project out .. I'm proud of you !! You are giving me great incentive to dust off my Logo 550 and make some progress with it before it snows again ?!?

GREAT thread .. GREAT photos .. Kudos to you !!

Russ
Feb 23, 2017, 11:35 PM
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Thanks a lot Russ - I'm excited to be working on this project, again, finally. Maybe it's a frame-of-mind thing - I seem to have more patience now then I recall having before (?)

Looking forward to messing with that Gold-N-Rod this weekend. If I get the tail sorted out I'll be able to move onto the next step - just not sure what that is yet, but I'm looking forward to figuring it out

A couple inches of snow are in the forecast, but not until after the thunderstorms overnight ...
Feb 24, 2017, 12:09 AM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot
Thanks a lot Russ - I'm excited to be working on this project, again, finally. Maybe it's a frame-of-mind thing - I seem to have more patience now then I recall having before (?)

Looking forward to messing with that Gold-N-Rod this weekend. If I get the tail sorted out I'll be able to move onto the next step - just not sure what that is yet, but I'm looking forward to figuring it out

A couple inches of snow are in the forecast, but not until after the thunderstorms overnight ...
Well, you know:

It's tough to have patience when your mind is pre-occupied with 43 other dilemmas ?! So, now you are, perhaps, in "comfort zone", and that would be a good thing !

Crazy about the weather, and our forecast is very similar, just a few days later .. about Sun / Mon .. as your weather is heading our way !!

I'm loving the warm weather we are having .. the Heating Oil Man is not happy !!

Chat later,

Russ
Feb 25, 2017, 09:38 PM
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Had a mini-marathon with this project today. A couple of things got accomplished after 8 hours or so of tinkering.

Got the Gold-N-Rod measured, cut, and installed. Luckily, the included 2-56 threaded studs were compatible with the gray Century ball links used for the tail on the NX. No Cracks! The only resistance to movement now is the tightness of the ball links on the balls. Buttery Smooth!

The NX tail case proved to work better than the 16 tail case after all. And there's no way to slide a fitted tail case (without the tail shaft and pitch slider mechanics) through the fuse - only the NX case can go through (half of it) with the other half installed after shoving all the guts an additional 2" past the holes in the fuse/wood/landing gear.

Made couple of sponge ring clones and experimented with positioning them on the boom, shoving them into the boom, where they end up, how they affect the Gold-N-Rod's path, how much play remains in the tail, etc. Rinse & Repeat about 10 or so times.

I discovered some sharp protrusions of fiberglass inside the fuse near the tail - had to get a file out and smooth them out as the sponge rings were getting snagged.

Decided to add some foam to the tail cone to help snug up the tail case and boom with the fuse.

What seems to work well is using all 3 sponge rings, not glued to the boom, shoved all the way to the tail case half prior to installing the air frame into the fuse. For now anyway, until I discover why this is a bad idea

Anyway, I think the tail work is close to being finished ... maybe
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Feb 26, 2017 at 01:47 AM.
Feb 25, 2017, 10:30 PM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
MiniBoy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot
Had a mini-marathon with this project today. A couple of things got accomplished after 8 hours or so of tinkering.

Got the Gold-N-Rod measured, cut, and installed. Luckily, the included 2-56 threaded studs were compatible with the gray Century ball links used for the tail on the NX. No Cracks! The only resistance to movement now is the tightness of the ball links on the balls. Buttery Smooth!

The NX tail case proved to work better than the 16 tail case after all. And there's no way to slide a fitted tail case (without the tail shaft and pitch slider mechanics) through the fuse - only the NX case can go through (half of it) with the other half installed after shoving all the guts an additional 2" past the holes in the fuse/wood/landing gear.

Made couple of sponge ring clones and experimented with positioning them on the boom, shoving them into the boom, where they end up, how they affect the Gold-N-Rod's path, how much play remains in the tail, etc. Rinse & Repeat about 10 or so times.

I discovered some sharp protrusions of fiberglass inside the fuse near the tail - had to get a file out and smooth them out as the sponge rings were getting snagged.

Decided to add some foam to the tail cone to help snug up the tail case and boom with the fuse.

What seems to work well is using all 3 sponge rings, not glued to the boom, shoved all the way to the tail case half prior to installing the air frame into the fuse. For now anyway, until I discover why this is a bad idea

Anyway, I think the tail work is close to being finished ... maybe
John:

That's all coming together really nicely !! That tail pitch linkage / Golden Rod / ball link connection looks great !

I wonder if you ended up slipping the foam cushions over the Golden Rod .. the photo you have showing the cushions between the aluminum boom and the Golden Rod appear the ball link to the tail pitch linkage would be considerably out of alignment ?!

Also, before you go too far, you need to see if mounting a tail pitch servo on the boom will restrict pushing the mechanics back to where you can get the tail box exposed will be interfered with? You probably have this figured out already, but it seems as the tail servo would be happiest lying across the top of the boom parallel to the ground with the servo horn on the right side of the boom ? hopefully, the servo won't hit the rear inside of the fuse ..

Russ
Feb 25, 2017, 11:01 PM
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Thanks Russ! Good point with mounting a tail servo ... will do that. There appears to be enough room to shove things back but I need to get a servo on the boom to confirm.

Where to put the cushions & goldenrod - that's the 1 million dollar question.

I've tried a bunch of different layouts - all have their pros and cons. The little booklet that came with the fuse said to glue the cushion to the boom - but it didn't say where, and I don't want to damage it tearing it off and re-gluing a bunch of times. I might try a clamp on the boom to keep it from moving and experiment some more with where to put it. Seems like wherever I put it it's fine until I have to slide everything back an additional 2" - it can't slide past a certain point in the fuse as it tapers down smaller than the cushion - and the cushion isn't very soft, it's got some durometer to it ... if you know what I mean. So I'm thinking to let it slide on the boom to avoid damaging it ... but ... (?) Or maybe I should trim it down - but where, on the top or on the bottom (how's it actually compressing in there?)

What I settled on this evening lets the goldenrod drop down to the bottom of the fuse into those channels in the cushions and hit the pitch slider with a mostly straight shot. This avoids the boom sitting too high as it does when the goldenrod is kept close to the boom (which causes the pitch slider to scrape on the cutout in the tail cone), and then it must make a sharp downward bend to get to the pitch slider ... I guess I have to play with it some more. The picture is deceiving - the cushions start out at the end of the boom but then when inserted they slide up towards the front by a few inches, so that bend the goldenrod is taking is more gradual than shown.

The inside of the tail is not very smooth - lots of places for cushions to get caught up on. Fiberglass strips not completely matted down, a CF strip around where the horiz stabs go that isn't flush, the seam along the bottom that forms a hump, etc. And I don't have Looonnnnnggg files to get all the way in there with. Maybe I'm being too anal ... (?)

It's an extremely complicated little puzzle - like a Rubik's cube of sorts. For me anyway I kinda wish the fuse was clear so I could see what's happening in there when shoving things around.

At first I was just using the two clone cushions I made, which are much softer and can slide up/down the tail better than the one in the kit. BUT, when all is said and done the boom was able to move around a bit (the kit one is harder and holds the boom better). So I'm back and forth between being able to slide everything around, not destroy cushions, and minimize boom movement once it's all together (thus the foam in the tail cone).

And then there's the electrical tape holding the goldenrod to the boom - I've had to move the tape around too as that messes with the overall equation as well ...

There's a solution - I just haven't stumbled on it yet Something that's repeatable every time is preferred.
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Feb 26, 2017 at 01:39 AM.
Feb 26, 2017, 01:09 PM
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Okay, got some non-hobby things to do today, so it's a great time for Gorilla glue and clamps to do their thing on some wood - the battery mount portion of the project. I'm building a front base for the CF plate to screw into so it doesn't have do the diving board thing. At some point I need to glue the main base into the fuselage - just not ready to commit to that yet

Can't decide whether to use the NX's or the 16's electronics tray ...

And I think I found out what those rubber clips are for - please correct me if I'm wrong:
Noticing there isn't a good place to secure the NX to the fuselage (L-bracket, metal, wood, etc. - I'm still looking for one though) these little things look like they slide over the fuse lip to keep the NX in contact with it on both sides (as long as it is sitting centered in the fuse to begin with). And, they also interact with the front canopy that now must slide downward (into the clips) before the magnets take over. I installed the canopy with them and they do appear to lessen the slop between the NX and the fuse. Makes the canopy a little more difficult to get on and off (a good thing?) - especially once I get the rest of the windows glued in (I'll have less finger holes to pull on).
They don't appear to interfere with the sliding in/out of the guts.

I think that's what Century had in mind for them (?) If so I'm going to need more of them - they don't look like they'll last forever ...
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Feb 26, 2017 at 07:49 PM.
Feb 26, 2017, 02:24 PM
Whaddya Mean, I Procrastinate?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot
Okay, got some non-hobby things to do today, so it's a great time for Gorilla glue and clamps to do their thing on some wood - the battery mount portion of the project. I'm building a front base for the CF plate to screw into so it doesn't have do the diving board thing. At some point I need to glue the main base into the fuselage - just not ready to commit to that yet

And I think I found out what those rubber clips are for - please correct me if I'm wrong:
Noticing there isn't a good place to secure the NX to the fuselage (L-bracket, metal, wood, etc. - I'm still looking for one though) these little things look like they slide over the fuse lip to keep the NX in contact with it on both sides (as long as it is sitting centered in the fuse to begin with). And, they also interact with the front canopy that now must slide downward (into the clips) before the magnets take over. I installed the canopy with them and they do appear to lessen the slop between the NX and the fuse. Makes the canopy a little more difficult to get on and off (a good thing?) - especially once I get the rest of the windows glued in (I'll have less finger holes to pull on).
They don't appear to interfere with the sliding in/out of the guts.

I think that's what Century had in mind for them (?) If so I'm going to need more of them - they don't look like they'll last forever ...
No, no .. Those are meant to keep the cabin doors from slamming shut and chipping the paint !

>

Just kiddn'

I think you have the right idea about the "snubbers" up in the doghouse .. I have FEET of that stuff from McMaster Carr .. use it for grommets for elliptical / rectangular holes to run servo / ESC / FBL Controller wires through bulkheads, fairings around fiberglass cockpits in boats, etc. ..

However, will the thickness of the rubber / vinyl interfere with the fit of the forward half of the fuselage to the rear half ??

Also got your email .. I had a nasty time with that last night .. I think yahoo was doing some updates .. I couldn't get anywhere with email @ 1:30 A.M. !?! .. Will reply to you tonite ..

Russ
Feb 27, 2017, 11:09 PM
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Yes, the rubber/vinyl will interfere, but the gap is wide enough for both lips to fit (if the forward half is installed in such a way where there's some downward movement to slide into the gap just before the magnets pull things together). That or slots have to be cut in to forward half where the snubbers are located (not preferred).

So I spent some time messing with the tail assembly trying to figure out why there's resistance with the belt and the front/aft gears. Looks like the belt included with this heli is a little wider and thicker than the other ones I have so the fit is a little tighter.

I widened the cutouts in the tail case (top & bottom) to allow the belt more room without scraping on the case halves, but I don't think that's going to do much. Perhaps the belt shrinks in width as it's used? Kinda scary thought. I have two spare belts NIP that look to have similar dimensions, and another belt from the original 2012 Swift 16 - thinner, used (?) - that I might install and note the difference.

I also discovered that the Swift 16's rudder pushrod guide (CNE534) might be able to help with the sideways bow of the GoldNRod when operated. I have to slide it in the fuse to see if it fits. If it does, I have a 2nd one that I'll use up front by the tail servo as well.
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Mar 01, 2017 at 10:07 PM.
Mar 01, 2017, 10:10 PM
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Did some work on getting the air-frame a little more ready for those pre-fuselage test flights. Russ's awesome servos and gyro will feel right at home

CNE534 can't be located way back at the end of the boom as in the previous post - won't fit into the fuselage. So I'm going to try and move it 5-1/4" in and use it to keep the sponge ring from sliding forward.

Why 5-1/4"? Because that seems to be where the sponge ring ends up after repeated cycles of shoving the boom into the tail, attaching the tail case, then sliding forward 2" and locking down the mechanics. I guess it wants to be there

And CNE534 at 5-1/4" still offers some reduction in the GoldNRod whipping around back there. ( NX Canopy shown just for fun )

I also swapped belts with that 2012 eBay one and what a difference! Much less friction and smoother operation. I guess they're stiff when new and need to become 'seasoned' a bit.

Also, there's exactly 1 (one) M3x35mm bolt/cap screw on this heli, and I didn't have one. It holds the tail fin on the tail case. If no tail fin then a M3x30mm works just fine. Found a 10-pack on-line for around $5. I then ordered a 20-pack of some M1.2x3mm (teeny-tiny screws) to mount the windows in-case I decide to not do the glue thing.
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Mar 02, 2017 at 08:55 PM.


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