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Oct 19, 2014, 11:19 PM
Registered User
Sent that last from my phone and did not spend much time typing it... I think it reads a little rude and is not what I intended at all ...I meant that I am truly surprised that a simulator might be of use...I mean I have done emergency procedures a couple of times on the multi million dollar full motion simulators.... and that was only Kind of helpful as to where things were located....still not quite like the real thing.....if you know what I mean
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Oct 19, 2014, 11:38 PM
Registered User
Jockadopolus's Avatar
RC Flight sims can be a great training tool but many people sit at there computer for hours and use it like a game
I tell them to stand as if you are at the flying field and only fly for short sessions Joe
Oct 19, 2014, 11:59 PM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
Lockey's Avatar
If the Easy Autogyro works out, I might go one step further (or back) and make a fixed wing rudder / elevator only trainer … moving on to aileron trainer and then fixing a mast and progressing to this one … it would essentially be a very resilient and robust basic progressive trainer (see pic)… but that’s another story

Back to the thread … I didn’t manage to get any building done over the weekend as I had a major catastrophe with one of my computers and thought I had lost all my business accounts info, I have managed to recover some from an earlier back up, but have lost about 14 months info

Anyway, I hope to do a little building today …

If I can be of further assistance Greywuuf, please drop me a PM ... and no mate, no offense was taken from your post

Lockey
Last edited by Lockey; Oct 20, 2014 at 12:05 AM.
Oct 20, 2014, 01:37 AM
Mike's Ma Maaaaaaaaan
PaulB's Avatar
Hi Mr. Greywuuf,

can only conclude with what the guys here are all saying. At the risk of repeating them I have also had a bit of time flying 1 to 1 scale followed (accompanied) by many, many years of both fixed wing and helicopter (model) abusing. I also found these whirly twirly things a bit of a challenge at first, it does take a higher level of stick stirring coordination than most standard fixed wing models just to fly reasonably flat constant height circuits.

In my humble opinion have defiantly picked a rocky road to travel down, however, I really do think that with this model you are going to have the best chance of success.

However it works out, please keep us posted because input from guys like you can be invaluable to others who want to take the plunge.

Good luck,

Paul
Oct 20, 2014, 02:05 AM
Registered User
hmmm, thanks for the encouragement guys, I got thinking about it, and I have a fair amount of "stick time" on a little coaxial electric ( indoor type micro ) heli .... so I have the reversed controls coming at you thing down as well as decent orientation ( that thing is small in a cluttered hanger with high ceilings ) had forgotten about that....I am a helicopter mechanic by trade.... and as I said... have some fixed wing time...none of which applies directly to RC model Gyro's I certainly know enough to know what I don't know... but hopefully know enough to ask intelligent questions... I just decided to give it a go so I did not ask a lot of "hypothetical stuff" with out ever having tried it. I learned a lot from my first Auto G spectacular disassembly.... mostly that you really want a bigger field to start off in... it seemed to be going away to fast and I ended up turning before I had ANYTHING properly sorted in my mind.... next time will be better I am sure ... I'll keep you posted as if nothing else I am amusing to watch ....
Oct 20, 2014, 05:12 AM
Registered User
Tom Wright's Avatar
I have a sneaky feeling your resolve and determination might just get you at least some tentative flights ,if you take a step by step approach and think carefully about how to do this and allow us to "hold your hand" at each stage

In doing this we might be taking on a challenge on a par with the one you will be faced with.

Tom.
Oct 20, 2014, 05:45 AM
Registered User
Tom Wright's Avatar
A further thought.... If the initial flights are carried out over deep snow maybe you would get it flying before breaking it .

Tom.
Oct 20, 2014, 07:17 AM
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Tom Wright's Avatar
Hi Tony

First class work and again done at great speed
I only have one reservation at this stage and that is the addition of the undercarriage cross brace , I understand why this has been added and it may well be OK but in the event of a bad landing or even crash on firm ground the torsional loads directed into the fire wall attachment and structure between the fire wall and mast are much greater than the unbraced undercarriage.

One the other hand if the undercarriage is two springy then ground undulations may cause pitching and rolling movements on the ground that constantly changes the air flow angle through the rotor, resulting in greater difficulty when it comes to ROG. A relatively small point at this stage as we know the model will ROG well as currently configured.

Maximizing durability,maintaining simplicity and configuring the design so that every builder ends up with identical models is the designers challenge which in turn should result in the model flying off the board , what the pilot does from that point depends greatly on previous experience and how much attention has been given to the the advice offered and flying shown in the videos.

Super photos by now most looking in will be getting a fair idea of what the build entails.

Best Regards

Tom.
Oct 20, 2014, 08:14 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
Lockey's Avatar
Thanks Tom, it is a very quick model to build, anyone with any previous building experience will build it in less than a day

I am going to use the wing from the other one (save building another wing) I didn't put a CF spar in the wing, instead I just used fiberglass tape and I already know this holds up well

Wherever I have drilled and used bolts through the CF tube, I have glued a length of 8 mm dowel inside (perfect fit) CF is from HK ... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9012

I have done the hang balance and this is what I get (see pic) I downloaded an app for my i-phone to check the angle ... you will see in the last pic, if you take a vertical line through the centre of the top of the mast, it will cut through the front of the wing (done without the rotor blades on)

I hear what you are saying about the undercarriage mate, I made the brace with stainless steel fishing trace wire BUT it could be made from a strongish cord which would break in the event of a real heavy landing ... I have it on the prototype and it stopped it rolling and bouncing about, and I didn't find any problems on heavy landings

I am going with a Emax BL2215/15 (950 kv) motor with a 10 x 4.7 ... http://www.emaxmodel.com/views.asp?hw_id=106 and 1500 / 3s battery, weight with everything except the rotor blades is now 615 grams

Lockey
Last edited by Lockey; Oct 20, 2014 at 07:15 PM.
Oct 20, 2014, 09:41 AM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
Lockey's Avatar
Making a rotor blade, these were made for the prototype and I didn't have any 12 x 6 mm spruce, so I used 6 x 6 mm and wrapped the leading edge with fiberglass tape to add a little weight to the front of the blade and it also added a little strength

NOTE: It is important to use 12 x 6 spruce (where possible) for the leading edge to get the CG of the blades in the correct place and make the blade more efficient


Lockey
Last edited by Lockey; Oct 20, 2014 at 06:40 PM.
Oct 20, 2014, 10:12 AM
Registered User
Tom Wright's Avatar
Hi Tony

Blades made with 6x6mm spruce leading edge will work but may not run as well as they should without weighting to bring the chord wise cog forward. The 6 x 12 mm spruce is more robust and gets the cog close to were it should be.
Also the 6 x 12 mm reduces coning by reducing bending resistance.( coning is not good)

Tom.
Last edited by Tom Wright; Oct 20, 2014 at 10:18 AM.
Oct 20, 2014, 06:31 PM
Tony Audsley Retired Locksmith
Lockey's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wright
Hi Tony

Blades made with 6x6mm spruce leading edge will work but may not run as well as they should without weighting to bring the chord wise cog forward. The 6 x 12 mm spruce is more robust and gets the cog close to were it should be.
Also the 6 x 12 mm reduces coning by reducing bending resistance.( coning is not good)

Tom.
Thanks Tom ... you are the man

I will be using the new blades from AJ baldes on this one, I will take pics to cover the completing of these ... just thought I should show the pics of how to make them in case some of the guys want to make their own ... I will make a note to use 12 x 6 spruce for the leading edge

Should I use the new dimensions from the CFL for the delta plate and the blade ends ?

Lockey
Oct 21, 2014, 12:37 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockey
Thanks Tom, it is a very quick model to build, anyone with any previous building experience will build it in less than a day ......

Lockey
Once we get some plans in our hands that is

and all of this spruce you guys are using.......my table saw is going to get quite a workout ( I will have to rip my own from boatbuilding leftovers..... boat shops we have... hobby shops not so much )
Oct 21, 2014, 12:40 AM
Registered User
oh and remind me to order steel rule with metric markings you intellectuals ( civilized, refined choose your own description) with your logical measuring system are making this hillbilly work for this.


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