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Sep 24, 2014, 03:52 PM
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thnilsen's Avatar
Build Log

Brian Taylor - Hawker Tempest Mk. V build


Since I was a kid I have always admired the Hawker Tempest V forms. I had a plastic Airfix kit hanging in the my room as a youngster when I just started with model flying, which is what got me hooked on this plane. Move on 25 years or so and I have finally started building one.Two weekends ago I came home form the Norwegian Scale national competition where my rather sport scale Goldberg Ultimate just didn't cut it any more.

This will not be a quick process as I tend to do more thinking than building, but I hope to be able to fly it in next years F4H scale competitions here in Norway - which gives me around 7-8 months to complete it to some form of flying condition.

I have not yet decided on which colour scheme I'll end up using, but I'm leaning towards NV778 in its military colours as it was done up in '68, rather than the target tug colours it currently holds.
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I initially wanted to build Sepp Uiberlacher's model, but it's just a bit too much work to get it ready for next season (not to mention too expensive to buy all the balsa for in this country). So BT's Tempest will be a good start. I got the short kit and canopy from Traplet, just need to get the cowling and spinner from them as well.

BT's Tempest is designed for static landing gear but I intend to install electric main retracts and if possibly shoehorn in a DIY tail retract. Engine wise I will be going electric. If space permits I will try and fit a sound system as well.

There are a few excellent build logs for Tempests and Typhoons which I do intend to use as a resource. One of them will be John Ranson's (Sepp version) over at www.rcscalebuilder.com (1/6) or Exxon's Typhoon at www.rcscalebuilder.com. John's model is an amazing piece and has a very nice sound system as well (video) . I won't be able to build anything near the standard he produced, but hopefully it will come out looking like the real thing at 5m distance (which is the rules for F4H static judging) :-)

I started with something easy - the tail end. The horizontal fin is built up in two halves that gets glued together. However, the ribs for the horizontal fin is just so small, so as soon as one put any pressure on the LE or TE the ribs broke off. (I'm probably a bit to heavy handed)
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So I traced out new fin ribs and rebuilt it in once piece.
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Next step will be to sheet one side of the fin. I'll leave it open on one side till I have the rudder built and can complete the hinges. Not yet decided on whether I will use the BT hinge method or go for traditional hinges. The BT hinge is very nice as it is all concealed, but makes it a bit more complicated to build.

On the original BT plan both rudder and elevators are built using solid balsa sheets. I will build mine using 0.5mm plywood core and ribs to make it more scale and too keep the weight at the tail end down.
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Sep 24, 2014, 05:24 PM
Formerly "vonJaerschky"
Wolpertinger's Avatar
Always nice to see another Tempest or Typhoon. I currently have a 1/5 scale Typhoon under construction from Vaillancourt plans. I look forward to seeing your Tempest come together.
Sep 24, 2014, 05:32 PM
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thnilsen's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by vonJaerschky View Post
Always nice to see another Tempest or Typhoon. I currently have a 1/5 scale Typhoon under construction from Vaillancourt plans. I look forward to seeing your Tempest come together.
I just started reading your thread yesterday. Hope you don't mind me stealing some of your ideas along the way.
Sep 24, 2014, 05:35 PM
Formerly "vonJaerschky"
Wolpertinger's Avatar
Not at all! Besides, I've just stolen them from someone else!
Sep 25, 2014, 05:31 AM
Full scale or 1/8 scale
Shell shock 2's Avatar
Hi,Is this the 72" wing span version?
Sep 25, 2014, 09:04 AM
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thnilsen's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shell shock 2 View Post
Hi,Is this the 72" wing span version?
It's the standard 61.5" span version.
Sep 28, 2014, 07:28 AM
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thnilsen's Avatar

Horizontal fin


Moving on to the horizontal fin. This is also built up in two halves, where both halves are sheeted before being glued together to make a complete horizontal fin. I won't glue them together yet as I want to prep the hinge anchors first. Building the two halves was a bit easier than the rudder as there where more glue surface this time around. Once joined the tips will be made up of two layers of 6 mm depron to keep weight down.

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I wanted to start on building the rudder and elevators, but couldn't find any good plastic or carbon tubing to use for the hinge line. It was either too small or to wide which would make the hinge too sloppy. I like the idea of having the option to easily remove the rudder/elevators so I'll spend some time to get this right rather than using pin hinges.

I have also started cutting parts for the fuselage, but ran out of 6mm basla. Hopefully the LHS will have a new stock in this week.. Might as well look for something to use on the hinges at the same time.

Retract options
There's way too many options when it comes to the retracts. I want to go with electric to keep things simple, but finding something that has been proven to work over time is not exacly easy without a lot of forum reading. Idealy I would like to get the Lado RS333 100 degree units, but they're not within my budget. Hobbyking is selling a set of all metal retract for up to 6 kg. This has a 6mm or 12.5mm strut mounting.
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https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...g/43897(2).jpg

Another one I have come across is one sold by DXHobby made for up to 12-16 pounds. This one only has a 5mm strut mounting, but should be sufficient. (I fly an old F3A model from the mid 80's with 3mm struts weighing just over 4 kg)
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http://www.dxhobby.com/electric-retr...gle-p-179.html

I can't find much info on these two units other than the produc specs, so for now I've resisted hitting the buy button. The HK ones are less than $30 each so I migh just get one to see if they're any good or not. One of the comments on HK did state that the units don't deploy to 100 degrees so I guess it won't hurt to play it safe.

Motor
For propulsion I am currently leaning towards the Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 5055-430kv . This motor has served me well with my Sebart Miss Wind and it should be plentiful for the power needs in the Tempest if it comes in with an AUW of around 4kg.
Oct 03, 2014, 07:41 PM
Full scale or 1/8 scale
Shell shock 2's Avatar
Oct 03, 2014, 09:45 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
- me too!
Pat
Oct 04, 2014, 07:15 AM
Registered User
Once joined the tips will be made up of two layers of 6 mm depron to keep weight down.
Oct 12, 2014, 03:22 PM
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thnilsen's Avatar

Fuselage


Been a few days since posting now. Just got back in from a week and a bit of holiday in south Portugal. While holidays are nice its always a good feeling once you're home again. Air travel just wastes too much times sometime. This time we had to do three flights over two days just to get home. Managed to finish reading "The Battle of Britain" by James Holland while the kids played in the pool. Highly recommended.

Not a whole lot has changed since last posting. The two fuselage sides are now glued up, well some glue is still drying. The LHS still didn't have any 6mm balsa stock as needed for the front half so I ended up buying some sheets of 8mm and sanded it down to 6mm. I could have laminated two 3mm sheets but that would have meant added weight, even if it would have been minuscule.

Hope to get some time tomorrow to start gluing the two sides together.
Oct 13, 2014, 02:55 AM
Slow builder
_AL_'s Avatar
Very nice.
Subscribed.

Al
Oct 17, 2014, 04:45 PM
Registered User
thnilsen's Avatar

Fuselage continues


Progress is slowly moving forward. Managed to glue the two sides together.

Retracts have been ordered. I ended up buying the Hobbyking 100 degree all metal retract. They're cheap enough to throw away if it turns out to be a mistake. They're on the heavy side so we'll see how it turns out.

An attempt to get some ideas as to how things will fit. The main battery compartment will have to be access from the top of the fuselage. Not really ideal as it will not look pretty with an access panel where there's not supposed to be one. The two almost square bits at the bottom of the cowling will be the speakers for the sound system. I'm planning on using the MR RC Sound system with the transducers. The fuselage will be extended forward to the back of the spinner, so that the motor can be mounted on the back side of the firewall. I won't make up those parts before I get my hands on the cowling. The servo location might also be moved forward a bit if the tail turns out to be heavy.
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Description: Suggested layout of some components. Battery access will be from the top of the fuselage.
I wish I had a jig for this job. When gluing in the two front fuselage formers I glued up one side first to make sure everything aligned at 90 degrees. Once it had dried it took me ages to get the second side of the fuselage to align properly and glued up. A case of checking 100 times and gluing once :-) Without a jig available I found that the backing of a self adhesive protective book covering film could be used as a reference grid to get alignment correct when gluing in the spacers.

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Description: All glued in.. just waiting for the last one to dry. It looks like the fuselage is out of alignment but that is luckily only an optical illusion..
Oct 18, 2014, 03:09 PM
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Rudder and elevator hinges dilemma


First challenge, sorting out the rudder and elevator hinges. The hinges on the plans are built using a 16 gauge (1.6mm) piano wire fed through a plywood support and some brass tubing. The issue I have with this is finding a brass tube or any other type of tube that will produce a solid hold with no play with a 1.5mm piano wire which is what we can get hold of in this metric country. The brass/plastic/aluminium tubing I have found so far are always with just too small or just too wide inside diameter causing too much play for my liking. The best one I have so far is a 2mm outside diameter aluminium tube with a wall thickness of 0.45mm and a 1mm piano wire, but again there is just that little bit of play (around 0.1mm). However, 1mm piano wire is probably a bit too thin since the plywood anchor point is now very wide.

The hunt for something suitable continues...
Oct 18, 2014, 07:58 PM
The "pro" in procrastination
Steve85's Avatar
Very nice, Thomas. You should consider entering your Tiffie in the Build-Off:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2265430

Ha det!

Steve


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