Flyaways Windbreakers! - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Oct 10, 2014, 12:10 PM
I want to fly everything!
Lance Nordby's Avatar
The wheels can bind on the bend in the wire and make the taxiing erratic (Chris can attest to this). I countersunk the edge with an X-acto and it helped a lot (I didn't have a countersink bit available which would have been better).

I also placed the wheel collars closer to the wheel so there isn't as much side-to-side slop. This helped a lot with the tracking. This is important so we don't crash into each other before we even take off.
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Oct 10, 2014, 12:24 PM
Registered User
Castel101's Avatar
"so we don't crash into each other before we even take off" which has happened before!!
Oct 10, 2014, 08:03 PM
So many planes, So little time
Xflyfun's Avatar

Not so fast !


Quote:
Originally Posted by nybeechpilot
it went together perfect.
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Well Well
Do you want me to bring out the box top Saturday
Oct 11, 2014, 06:52 PM
I want to fly everything!
Lance Nordby's Avatar
delete
Last edited by Lance Nordby; Oct 11, 2014 at 10:08 PM.
Oct 11, 2014, 07:15 PM
I want to fly everything!
Lance Nordby's Avatar
The graphics sets have arrived and some them were distributed today. I'm going to use this thread to keep track of who got what and who paid what. Joe paid the initial bill of $266. Assuming he buys a full and backup set we owe him at least $250 plus the tip. I'll update this post as the money comes in.

Chris bought full set and a backup set. Paid $36
Dave bought full set and a backup set. Paid $20, owes Chris $16 (I think)
Dennis bought full set Paid $20
John bought full set and a backup set. Paid $36
Geoff bought full set Paid $20
Lance bought full set Paid $20
Ivan bought full set Paid $20
Total so far $188
Last edited by Lance Nordby; Oct 14, 2014 at 12:13 PM.
Oct 11, 2014, 08:47 PM
I want to fly everything!
Lance Nordby's Avatar
I just lost 45 minutes of instructions. Here we go again:

These instructions are very explicit and long-winded (sorry) so hopefully all of the jets will look the same. Read them carefully before you start so that you do it right and not make your jet an odd-ball. There are important tips here.

It helps to trim the release and backing paper leaving about 1/16” margin to the vinyl. Use blue painter’s tape to position them. Be careful with blue painted areas as the tape will pull the paint off easily.

I started with the stars.

Careful! The backing paper is sticky enough that it will peel the blue paint. The stars are positioned on the paper with the proper spacing. I trimmed the paper leaving a narrow strip between the stars.

The smallest star goes on the front of the nose with the point forward. The aft stars go behind the canopy with the arms of the large star lined up with the joint.

Peel off the release paper and lightly apply the stars while avoiding pressing on the backing. Use a pointy thing and press only on the stars and not the backing. Once the stars are burnished, carefully peel off the backing watching that the points are sticking. Use the tool to get them to stick. Avoid pulling straight up on the backing, instead pull it back tangential to the surface.

The numbers:

Position the number first. Place it as far forward* as possible leaving a 1/8” gap on the bottom. Push the rudder surface away from you. Peel off the release paper and stick only the forward part of the number down. Then work the number into the crack at the rudder line and then onto the rest of the rudder.

Cut the number stripe in half. The stripes do NOT wrap around the trailing edge of the rudder (Chris). Position the stripes and after sticking them down wrap them around the back edge of the rudder. Trim the stripe flush with the other side of the rudder. Repeat for the other number/stripe. The idea is to overlap the stripes on the trailing edge.

Windbreakers:

Note that the WINDBREAKERS font is slanted to the back on both sides. Make sure you don’t slant them FORWARD! Look at the photos and try to place the front of the lettering as shown in the pictures. On the port side the bottom of the BREAKERS should be about 5/16th of an inch above the wing joint. The break between the WIND and the BREAKERS should be such that the WIND is slightly below the BREAKERS by the width of the letter line stroke as shown in the photo. Look at the photos carefully to help gauge the positions of the lettering.

The only thing that went a little wrong is the “poofs” next to the word WIND. The poofs are on the wrong side of the word WIND in both cases. It’s no problem; just trim the front of the poof to match slant of the letters as shown in the photos.

Wings:

Apply the star first. Place the star points about 1/8” from the corner and trailing edge as shown.

Position the blue “swoosh” so it’s trailing edge is 5/16th of an inch from the arm of the star and about 1/4 to 5/16 inch from the leading edge**. Be careful that the pointy tip at the front doesn’t get wonky on you.

Position the red “swoosh” again about 5/16th of an inch from the star and about 5/16th of an inch from the blue swoosh at the forward tip.

The number goes on the left wing as shown with the bottom parallel with, and 2-3/8” from the trailing edge and 2-3/8” from the aileron.

The Fly-A-Ways logo goes 2” from the trailing edge and 2” from the aileron as shown.

Tail swooshes.

Use a straight edge to line the trailing edge up with the existing blue swooshes. There should be a 1” gap at the trailing edge and a 5/16th inch gap at the points at the front.

Other stuff:

I would like to put at least one Callie logo on the jet since it isn’t scale and she really came through for us with a great price and quick delivery. We can discuss this in the future. Chris went and put one on the bottom of the fuse just ahead of the TE of the wing.

We can discuss the stickers that came with kit. Geoff cast aspersions on the inlet danger sign saying it was phony. Maybe he’s right. How about the no-step?


*Dave, since you are #1 (and now Patrick McGoohan knows) you might not want to go that far forward.
**Ivan, you are going to have to get an Imperial ruler because I’m not converting all of these numbers to metric. Sorry, dad.
Last edited by Lance Nordby; Dec 24, 2014 at 09:45 PM.
Oct 13, 2014, 12:57 AM
Geoff
nybeechpilot's Avatar
Thanks Lance!
Oct 14, 2014, 01:39 PM
Registered User
Castel101's Avatar
Awesome! Thanks for the detailed instructions, wow!
Oct 21, 2014, 08:30 PM
So many planes, So little time
Xflyfun's Avatar

tail numbers


Tail numbers;
Joe, 0
Dave, 1
Dennis, 2
Chris, 3
John, 4
Geoff, 5
Aeron, 6
Ivan, 7
Greg, 8
Lance, 9
No # 10
David, 11
Oct 22, 2014, 03:14 PM
Registered User
Castel101's Avatar
Burnt ESC! Smelling Windbreaker #3 's tail pipe checking for damage .
Oct 30, 2014, 05:15 PM
Registered User
Windbreaker steering hack #1.

Both Chris and I have had the steering horn slip and go up the z-bend. (The horn rotates freely making a z-bend kind of an odd choice.) This is heat shrink shrunk and then thin-CA'd into place. We'll see if it keeps it in place....
Nov 29, 2014, 04:35 PM
Registered User
Another successful maiden wind breaking!
Dec 03, 2014, 12:39 AM
Registered User
Hey Windbreakers,

My replacement fuse arrived yesterday, and I started on the rebuild tonight. Be aware! The replacement fuse halves are only joined by a few strips of double sided tape. Why, you might ask? Because ALL of the attachment points and "hardware" must be salvaged from the original fuse.
- All three wing bolt attachment plates.
- The battery plate with the Velcro straps
- The nose gear retract mount
- The canopy attachment magnets from both the old canopy and the fuse. (The new fuse comes with the canopy base part) Obviously, you don't need to remove the canopy magnet if you reuse the existing one. Mine was damaged in my crash so I'm using the new one.

Regards,

Dennis
Dec 24, 2014, 12:01 PM
Registered User
Clete Landefeld's Avatar
Very Cool!..... Wish I had one!


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