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This thread is privately moderated by Vortrog, who may elect to delete unwanted replies. |
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Build Log
Hobbyking (TopRC) FW190 Wing Split issue and fix
TopRC FW190 PNF 1200mm owners, as part of your preflight checks....check your wing join seam with a little loading. (eg. face the model towards you, grab the leading edge of each wing and try to flex them gently up and inspect the load). Read below for why
To FW190 2The PNF kit comes with the wing already assembled which is great. Recently though, the model has been acting erattically when banking hard or pulling out of dives or loops, fighting Aileron control until the model slowed down. I fly the model 4S and really pull a lot of G's at high level. This and added to rough landing fields and (on occasion) loading other models on top of her (something you shouldn't do) means that those poor wings, despite being 6mm carbon rod reinforced, take a lot of punishment. Ive also had a couple of landings where the gear just 'did the splits' and allowed the prop to strike resulting in a instant nose over. At first, I thought it was the crusher dust on the landing strip making the wheel slip outwards. I was wrong. My original post here https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2250212 As a result of the suggestions, I found at least part of the problem. Can you see it? HINT: The slight separation to the rear of the wing join gives it away. Yes, my wings glue (clear gum type cement) has given in and is allowing the wings to flex up under load. Here it is with a little wing loading So, its time to reconnect the wings. For this I chose hot glue, however I think the recommendation for Gorilla Glue is a good one or better. (thanks Gregertman) However, as with most things, glue or sealants are only good to a point. Mechanical fixings are much more resilient. So, I hot glued the wings, and then added a carbon rod through the wing AFTER gluing. Ideally it should be done before, but I didn't want to total disassemble the wing. If you look the wing in profile, the best place to put a rod through is just infront of the flaps. I am using a 3mm brass rod to create the path for the 4mm carbon rod. The end of the brass rod is sharpened. As can be seen below, it will pass right through the middle of the join. I initially tried to use a short piece of rod, and ram it in behind with the brass rod, but the exercise failed dismally when the CA glue I squirted into the 'tunnel' grabbed the rod before I had finished inserting it. Take 2, I had to use a long length of rod, push it thoruhg, then back it up about 20mm; and cut it back at the entry. Its not as pretty as it should be, but it is providing the rigidity and bond between the two wing parts. Hopefully, you will do a better job than me below. I will hopefully test this out in the next two weeks and post results. If this doesn't improve handling, next step is change out of control horns, rods and servos to better quality. |
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Last edited by Vortrog; Sep 22, 2014 at 06:01 PM.
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Just an idea for you some metal or plastic banding works too.
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I didn't carry out this check and consequently lost a wing during a half aileron turn which resulted in a fatal crash.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2457 |
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what a pity! I have seen some products from TopRC, and its amazing appearences made me wanna buy. even can be a static model shown in room or any where. I am just beginner by the way.
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354 flights
1 battery fire 2 motor changes (due to bent shaft) 3 prop changes No gear servo replacements Elevator servo locked up and nosed in from about 25m up (I knew it was trouble but i stupidly didnt change out). Sad loss but best value for money warbird ever |
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