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Feb 03, 2015, 01:07 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyKunz
Yes, I have to stick my pinky finger in to get it to toggle states. I wish it extended past the end so it would be easier to push.

That said, I still have it in the system and next time I order from Sparkfun I'll be getting another one to use for controlling the LED illumination inside. That's just bling.

If I were doing it all over again, I would change to using one of the toggles like I have for everything else.

Andy
https://www.e-switch.com/product-cat...s#.VNENrJ3F_0w

I was thinking about looking into these. The button is .614" in diameter.
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Feb 03, 2015, 01:09 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
That looks like a much better choice. My button is about 0.4" dia.

Let me know how it goes. Maybe I'll update my machine to match!

Andy
Feb 03, 2015, 01:13 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
So then I looked them up on DigiKey. $21 each. Ouch! Maybe I won't be updating my machine to match!

Andy

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...739-ND/2116218
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...741-ND/2116220
Feb 03, 2015, 02:04 PM
Registered User
LOL that's what I saw. Their smaller ones the PV3 is available in the same size as yours, but with a raised button. I've got a call into the manufacturer about those. The ones I posted earlier are splash and dust proof...probably a little overkill for this application. I just want them to look awesome!
Feb 03, 2015, 02:07 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
pmackenzie's Avatar
Try ebay, they show lots of these anti-vandal switches.
(A term I had never heard before seeing it here)

Biggest I found was 16mm however.
Feb 03, 2015, 02:12 PM
Registered User
And BINGO was his Name-O! lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/19mm-Metal-O...item4182f480ae

The button size is 13mm or .51". A little bit larger than they one Andy has. Maybe that extra .1" will make all the difference
Feb 05, 2015, 02:07 PM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
Any of these switches work?

http://www.mpja.com/Panel-Mount-Push.../products/293/
Feb 09, 2015, 02:46 PM
Registered User
Ended up getting these:

http://www.mpja.com/SPDT-Push-Button...fo/31377%20SW/
Feb 09, 2015, 02:51 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Let us know how they work out.

In a few weeks I expect to start building a second machine for a friend.

Andy
Feb 09, 2015, 07:07 PM
Registered User
Well I ordered some from a vendor on EBAY last week and they sent me a PM asking me how I liked the part and to give them a positive review. I responded that I hadn't received them and asked if they had a tracking number and they said they were out of stock and would be two weeks. So i cancelled that and ordered those today from the link above, but they are out of stock to and will be a month. So i cancelled those, and I dunno where I'm going to get them from. UGH. Who thought little switches would be so hard to get!
Feb 09, 2015, 10:46 PM
Registered User
Ugh, now the circulation pump I got from Marco just quit working after 20 minutes of running. I'm never going to get this thing aligned!
Feb 10, 2015, 12:50 AM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by TStanley01
Well I ordered some from a vendor on EBAY last week and they sent me a PM asking me how I liked the part and to give them a positive review. I responded that I hadn't received them and asked if they had a tracking number and they said they were out of stock and would be two weeks. So i cancelled that and ordered those today from the link above, but they are out of stock to and will be a month. So i cancelled those, and I dunno where I'm going to get them from. UGH. Who thought little switches would be so hard to get!
Looks like the green & red versions are in stock:

http://www.mpja.com/SPDT-Push-Button...fo/31376%20SW/
http://www.mpja.com/SPDT-Push-Button...fo/31375%20SW/
Feb 10, 2015, 01:51 PM
Registered User
Lol a normal person would, but I want blue dang it. All my gauges are blue and I wanted them to match. I found another guy on ebay with them, so I'll just order those.

On another note, I emailed Marco last night about the pump last night around 10:30, and responded within 10 minutes saying he would send out a new one this morning, no questions asked. That guy offers good service!
Feb 10, 2015, 01:59 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
My experiences with Marco have been fantastic as well.

One of the reasons I decided to go with lightobjects.com was because of all the good service/support I saw Marco doing. Since I kind of do the same thing for Spektrum radios I know how trying it can be, and I know the level of commitment it takes.

He definitely has earned my business, and now that I'm working on a second machine it was a no-brainer to go back to him.

Andy
Feb 12, 2015, 12:00 AM
Registered User
Yea, he even discounted a product this week and offered everyone who had bought one in the last month a credit for difference.

The only two things I have seen that I would change about the kits is to go ahead and install the other two limit switches at the factory, and the screws that hold the 2nd mirror to the x axis gantry were a little short. They were only 16mm long and only held on by two threads. I went and got some 4mmx20mm bolt and they held great.

I hooked up an aquarium powerhead I had to get me some circulation going through the tube while I wait on the replacement pump so I could get my alignment done today. Geesh this big table had to be right on. By the time it got to the far side of the table, every thing had to be PERFECT, but we got it going. I'm going to start cleaning up the wiring now and getting stuff more finalized while I wait for the pump. It was fine for doing half seconds burst a few times a minute, but I wouldn't want to run a job through the machine with it.

While my purpose for building this table is for acrylic manufacturing, it looks like I'm going to have to get into RC airplanes now. I've been looking at some of these threads on here and these things look really neat. I actually got my pilot's license several years ago and fly every once and awhile, but I've never really flown RC.

Any ideas or recommendations for plans on beginner-intermediate plans that I can cut a kit out of? Probably something 40 size.
Feb 12, 2015, 09:45 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Find a "final" location for the frame in your building. You need to level it on the floor so that it doesn't twist things up on the gantry. If you move the unit you need to re-level it or things don't come out right (I have experience in this).

The feet on the bottom are very useful.

Andy
Feb 12, 2015, 10:20 AM
Registered User
Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
Yes, and check it two weeks after you reset it, it will take that long for the frame to settle in, after that it should be pretty stable.

L.
Feb 12, 2015, 11:19 PM
Registered User
Moved it into place and it did take a little tweaking to get it back to alignment, but it aligned and then I cut a few calibration squares and got it to 0.003" on a 6" square. Word for future builds though. I had adjusted the max size of the table before I did the calibration, and after I calibrated it became larger than the physical gantry. If I hadn't had the max limit switches hooked up, it would have plowed into the front of the gantry.

P.S. I'm still looking for a good suggestion on some plans to cut out a beginning builder kit for a 40 size nitro!
Last edited by TStanley01; Feb 13, 2015 at 03:12 AM.
Feb 13, 2015, 08:51 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
I don't know of any plans for you.

Don't lose that tap. I may be needing to buy it back from you!

Andy
Feb 13, 2015, 08:22 PM
Registered User
LOL Sweet!
Feb 19, 2015, 11:53 PM
Registered User
I settled on these. With free shipping they came out pretty decently priced.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251804152518...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Feb 22, 2015, 03:18 PM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
Hi Andy,
Made more progress today, mounted the Laser tube and connected up chiller.
I am a lot slower than you
Also included 2 pics of my homemade laser bed, constructed of aluminium.
Hopefully should be firing up the " Touchpaper " tomorrow.
Slightly off topic some females singing about "Beavers"
The Beaver Ballad (4 min 18 sec)
Last edited by HJG; Feb 22, 2015 at 03:28 PM.
Feb 22, 2015, 09:21 PM
Registered User
godfrey's Avatar
It's really hard to tell in the above photos, but I just want to throw this out here as a laserist…mostly higher powered visible gas lasers -- but CO2 applies as well.

I always use either deionized or distilled water, but in applications where cooling must be kept below a certain point (or you're worried about it freezing in a garage), use only clear ethylene glycol. The use of antifreeze is not recommended by laser companies because it can clog small orifices within the tube, especially if it has a stop leak additive in it.

You really don't have to worry about a reduction in output since the cooling jacket only surrounds the tube which lazing occurs…it's not anywhere in the path of the beam.

Thoughts anyone?


Phil

*the builds look nice though! I'm jealous!
Feb 22, 2015, 09:33 PM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
When using lasers in the field we only used straight stuff, either purified water or glycol. No additives allowed and definitely not automotive stuff. Usually the laser mfg will specify a coolant for use with their stuff.

charlie
Feb 22, 2015, 09:54 PM
Registered User
godfrey's Avatar
Yeah, I wasn't sure about the setup above, Charlie. I'm not sure if that's colored class with colored tubing or a dyed coolant…hard to tell -- but that brought up my initial thoughts.
Feb 23, 2015, 04:24 AM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
Hi All,
I have added as coolant ethylene glycol in ratio 33% to 66% distilled water and it is tinted a pinky red colour which according to the can gives protection down to _18*C. I bought it from Halfords and it is described as Halfords Advanced Anti- Freeze and coolant.
It does not mention on the can any leak inhibiting function , the tube is an 80W Reci but am not sure if it has small holes in its cooling circuit.
Should I dump it, dilute it, or just carry on?
I did a subsequent search on google and found this on Sawmill Creek forum :-




john banks

We use a 5 year life organic acid technology antifreeze of the sort you find in a modern automotive engine, 50:50 mix with deionised water. Cheap and readily available, it has been in nearly a year and looks clean in our CW5000 and RECI tube. I went for longer life stuff just so I wouldn't have to dispose of common ethylene glycol antifreeze as it is toxic. Price and availability of non-toxic propylene glycol was poor locally and I wasn't sure about the lifetime plus anti-microbial properties.

Our workshop is insulated (except for the floor which has rubber matting on uninsulated concrete, walls and ceiling have 4" of mineral wool) but unheated except for occupant comfort when in use, so it could go a few days in mid winter, which here might drop the internal temperature to around freezing at worst (last winter was mild, lowest we saw was 6 degrees Celcius), but I don't need to worry about it. Record lowest outside temperature here is still comfortably above the freezing point of 50% ethylene glycol.

Last edited by john banks; 11-27-2012 at 7:29 PM.

Mine is Organic Acid Technology anti freeze
Henry
Last edited by HJG; Feb 23, 2015 at 04:56 AM.
Feb 23, 2015, 08:57 AM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
Contact the laser mfg and ask what they recommend. If they don't care, then it is all about seal and metal compatibility.

I would not rely on anyone else's experience as a guide. Too much at stake.

Give the proper circumstances plain automotive stuff might work OK. I probably would not use it, but, if the mfg recommends it then go for it.

Personally I would not leave one of these lasers in an uncontrolled environment.

charlie
Feb 23, 2015, 09:45 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
I leave my shop heat at 45 when not in there. No problems, even with the sub zero temps we've had lately (-6F this morning). I'm using straight distilled water in mine.

Andy
Feb 23, 2015, 12:50 PM
Registered User
godfrey's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by HJG
...anti-microbial properties.

I had totally forgotten about that one! Bacteria used to be a problem in some manufacturers who made big screen televisions (the old CRT ones). Either they used a bad mixture or there was a small enough hole that allowed something in, but not large enough to let the fluid leak out. It was a long process of dismantling and cleaning it throughly, but the telltale signs were a muddy looking picture that convergence and focus couldn't fix. The fluid was housed in a compartment between the tube face and lens.

I used a product from Tech Spray for that particular application.

MSDS Datasheet can be found here.

Not recommending it's use here unless specified by the manufacturer…just sharing a story.
Feb 23, 2015, 09:28 PM
Registered User
Henry,
I would really like some more information about the aluminum you used on your table. Where did you get it? Can it be made to fit bigger sized tables? Can it hold a decent amount of weight without bowing?


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