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Jan 11, 2015, 07:27 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Logitech Trackman Marble+ model T-CL13. I have another one (older) that I like better.

I have big hands, and these are almost big enough to use comfortably. They simply don't make big-enough ones any more. Very sad. I think they base their designs on small-handed, undernourished secretaries, not beefy American men.

Andy
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Jan 11, 2015, 10:38 PM
Registered User
Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
Nor are they left handed!

L.
Jan 12, 2015, 03:59 AM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
Hi Andy,
Impressed with your new panel, looks like the laser is cutting 6mm ply there?
This seems to be the hardware equivalent of performing "recursion" in software
or Physician heal thyself.
Have ordered from Marco 63mm focus lens + adaptor, how much difference did it make to your machine?
Do you produce your cut shapes in Corel draw by tracing plans in some cases, when you are not producing scratch designs?

Henry
Jan 12, 2015, 09:31 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by HJG
Impressed with your new panel, looks like the laser is cutting 6mm ply there?
Yes, and it's good cabinet-grade plywood so the wood is very dense.

Quote:
This seems to be the hardware equivalent of performing "recursion" in software or Physician heal thyself.
I thought the same thing. Use the machine to make itself. I have a friend who manufactures 3D printers. Several of the parts are 3D printed.

Quote:
Have ordered from Marco 63mm focus lens + adaptor, how much difference did it make to your machine?
Yes, I was not about to try cutting the ply without it. I felt the air assist was necessary based on comments I've seen. The only thing I have cut since installing the adapter is this piece of plywood. I cannot give an evaluation otherwise.

Quote:
Do you produce your cut shapes in Corel draw by tracing plans in some cases, when you are not producing scratch designs?
I use TurboCAD. I can import a TIFF into it and then trace the plans that way, but I haven't done that in probably 10 years.

What I normally do is start with a printed drawing. I draw a datum for each view, take measurements, and then enter those into CAD numerically as lines crossing the datum at specified points. Then I draw lines or splines as appropriate and pull them until the spline intersects the lines at the lines' ends. Similar to a "connect the dots" concept.

I do the same for at least the top and side views. Front views tend to be easier to interpolate.

I'm working on a B-24 using this method right now. I just finished this part, actually. I'll see about posting the drawings tonight. I don't know if I still have an interim version with the reference lines, but I know I still have the printed.

Andy
Jan 12, 2015, 09:44 AM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
I'll answer part since I have done it a few times now

I do use Corel to trace parts from plans. Scan full size at a print shop and have them send me a pdf of the drawing. In Corel I trace each part.

If you have a VERY good drawing with FINE lines and not extra marks (like hatching), then the automatic tracing functions can save you some time. But, I have yet to find a set of plans that works well that way. Takes more work to clean up the auto trace than it does to just trace it by hand in the first place.

The air assist is a benefit for cutting plywood and thicker balsa. It also makes cleaner cuts in thinner balsa. You could get away without it IF you have a really high volume vacuum system that will pull ALL the smoke down away from the cut. I have a 2hp blower on mine and it is not enough to do that all the time.

And, if you do any etching the vacuum won't help much so the air assist is "mandatory". The air assist will also keep the optics cleaner.

charlie
Jan 17, 2015, 07:47 PM
Registered User
How much clearance did you leave for the top of your frame. I don't want the wire chain hitting the top of the lid.
Jan 17, 2015, 07:58 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
There is about 3-4" from the bottom of the lid cover to the top of the chain, which is a few inches above the top of the gantry. There is a post with simple PDF drawings I did in CAD to show the bracket I used on each.

Andy
Jan 17, 2015, 11:17 PM
Registered User
Cool, I'm trying to figure out how tall I need to make my frame above the gantry. I know the overall height of the gantry itself is right at 8 inches. Just need to figure out how much clearance I will need for the cable system. Gonna suck if it hits after I get the whole thing welded up.
Jan 17, 2015, 11:19 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Way back at the start of the thread I mention a link showing dimensions of all the parts. That's actually a PDF from the LightObjects site. You can use them to duplicate it.

Andy
Jan 17, 2015, 11:22 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Here's the post. Use the link there for dimensions.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...37&postcount=7

Andy
Jan 22, 2015, 08:26 PM
Registered User
Cool, I have the stand being built, should be done by next Friday. I'm running Windows 8.1 and Coreldraw 7, so I'm having compatibility issues right now getting the DSP to talk to the computer.

We need some more cool videos of you cutting some kits out for motivation!
Jan 22, 2015, 09:11 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
If you skip USB you'll be a lot happier. Use the network interface.

Andy
Jan 23, 2015, 01:10 PM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
HI Andy,
Have now bought a 2nd Pc and have it connected via Ethernet to laser awc608.
Not quite sure on the step resolution, 10 micro mtrs seems close how are yours set please ?

Henry
Jan 23, 2015, 01:17 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
I'll have to get back to you. I did a bunch of test cuts to calibrate it, getting closer and closer to perfection with each.

Andy
Jan 23, 2015, 02:06 PM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
Andy,
Thanks for the very quick reply, now going out to shed (Freezer ? ) and try and
narrow it down.
Jan 24, 2015, 07:30 AM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
Andy,
Have now settled on value of 9.87 uM for both X and Y step values, yours should be at or near this value.
I can achieve 915mm in X vector and 595 mm in Y. so can fit in a 36" balsa sheet.
Can now start on design and construction of table/bed.

Henry
Jan 24, 2015, 04:06 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Sorry I was out. I forgot when I got home last night, and have been at E-Fest all day to represent our club www.elifield.com

Here are my settings. It took several passes with increasingly larger squares until I had it accurate.

Andy
Jan 24, 2015, 05:10 PM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
Hi Andy,
Since the mechanical arrangement in terms of pulleys, motors ,and belts , is the same for [email protected] axis I would have expected the same value to be present.
Care to speculate on why you do not have equal values on your settings?
WoW ! fantastic club field and facilities, very nice, can I adopt American citizenship !!!
Correct me if I am wrong should you not have the water protect feature checked?


Henry
Last edited by HJG; Jan 24, 2015 at 05:28 PM.
Jan 24, 2015, 06:07 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
No, I don't care to speculate. I guess that's why they call it "calibration!"

You don't need to be a citizen (in fact we have several non-citizen members). Just an AMA card and $100.

I have WP on the power supply right now. Yes, and I should have Open enabled soon.

Andy
Jan 25, 2015, 12:48 AM
Mexia Izonfia
MetroGTi's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by HJG
Since the mechanical arrangement in terms of pulleys, motors ,and belts , is the same for [email protected] axis I would have expected the same value to be present.
Care to speculate on why you do not have equal values on your settings?
I would think that the belt tension would have a direct effect on calibration. Think of it as a rubber lead screw. Put it under more tension, and the lead changes.
Jan 25, 2015, 04:48 AM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
MetroGTI,

Yes that is a very good analogy, more tension increases the belt tooth pitch a very small amount which accounts for the different settings.
Wish I had thought of that
Since Andy's values are higher than mine that implies higher belt tension in his setup?
Last edited by HJG; Jan 25, 2015 at 05:04 AM.
Jan 25, 2015, 11:12 PM
Registered User
What type of push-type connectors did you use on the 24 gauge wire going to the limit switches. All the connectors I can find only go down to 22 gauge. I was thinking of soldering them, but I'm afraid the heat might mess up the switches. I've only got a cheap little sears soldering iron I bought for $12.
Jan 26, 2015, 03:46 AM
HJG
HJG
HENRY
TStanley01,
I soldered mine, used cat5 wire for connexion , finished with heatshrink. Provided your wattage on your iron is not excessive you should be o/k.
Also leave enough spare wire to enable change out of limit switches should that be required at a latter date.
Last edited by HJG; Jan 26, 2015 at 03:52 AM.
Jan 26, 2015, 10:12 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by TStanley01
What type of push-type connectors did you use on the 24 gauge wire going to the limit switches. All the connectors I can find only go down to 22 gauge. I was thinking of soldering them, but I'm afraid the heat might mess up the switches. I've only got a cheap little sears soldering iron I bought for $12.
The part number is in the spreadsheet in post #1. I bought them at True Value and crimped them with pliers, then soldered the wire to the connector and put heat shrink over it.

Andy
Jan 26, 2015, 11:02 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyKunz
The part number is in the spreadsheet in post #1. I bought them at True Value and crimped them with pliers, then soldered the wire to the connector and put heat shrink over it.

Andy
That is probably the best bet. Crimp and solder. I was afraid that tiny wire would pull out pretty easily.

Sorry if I have so many questions. If I'm sidetracking your thread just let me know and I'll keep my questions to Marco's forum.

Regards,
Taylor
Jan 26, 2015, 11:13 AM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
This is fine, Taylor.

Andy
Feb 03, 2015, 12:27 PM
Registered User
Andy,

How do you like the push button you got for the red laser. I need several buttons and was thinking about getting some of those, but I heard they were a bit small for a man's finger.

Finally got the stand made and painted and in the garage. Going to start wiring everything up once I get a little time.

Regards,
Taylor
Feb 03, 2015, 12:41 PM
RC Connectors dot com
glenn2626's Avatar
Wow, that looks about the size of my first car! Is that a 900mm x 1200mm bed, or larger?
Feb 03, 2015, 12:57 PM
AndyKunz's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by TStanley01
Andy,

How do you like the push button you got for the red laser. I need several buttons and was thinking about getting some of those, but I heard they were a bit small for a man's finger.

Finally got the stand made and painted and in the garage. Going to start wiring everything up once I get a little time.

Regards,
Taylor
Yes, I have to stick my pinky finger in to get it to toggle states. I wish it extended past the end so it would be easier to push.

That said, I still have it in the system and next time I order from Sparkfun I'll be getting another one to use for controlling the LED illumination inside. That's just bling.

If I were doing it all over again, I would change to using one of the toggles like I have for everything else.

Andy
Feb 03, 2015, 01:04 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by glenn2626
Wow, that looks about the size of my first car! Is that a 900mm x 1200mm bed, or larger?
1200mm x 1800mm w/ 100 watt RECI.


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