Here's what I've been thinking on for a couple weeks, and hacking away on for the past week, while the wind and rain have forced up inside, rather than to the fields for testing.

As most of you know, I rarely bother to paint a model. I normally don't keep flying it long enough for the paint to fully cure But, with the never ending bad weather this week, I figured I'd throw a little more time and effort into maing this one look decent. It still won't win any beauty contests, but sure looks better then plain old Blue!

This plane's basic specs:

Wing: 30"x15", 7.5" polyhedral, 2" dihedral (each side) (Who knows if that's the correct nomenclature, but makes perfect sense to me)
Fuse: 2 layer profile
Controls: Rudder / Elevator
Power: DCM-189/C/1047
Battery: 2S ET700, 1200, or 3S ET1200 or A830
Weight: 8.5oz RTF w/ 2S ET700

Maiden Report: Wow, a couple pretty surprising things appeared on the first hand launch! 1) The required CG is way forward of where I thought it should be. 2) Control throws need to be less than half of what I thought they would need. Needless to say, it was an exciting second or two Finally put in a heavier pack, moved it to the nose, and turned the throws down to 40%, and it flew! Loops and rolls are wacky and fun. It flies even wackier than my favorite wacky plane, the Lady Bug (Clancy). It will slow down quite well, and could probably fly OK on an IPS. It could easily get down to 7.5 or maybe even 7 oz with this power, and a lighter pack, like the K340's.

Anyway, here's some pictures. I'll work on cleaning up (and correcting) the plans soon. It'll probably be a couple weeks, since I'm leaving soon for a long conference, and have some commitments that must be attended to before I head out.

Edit, added plans

It looks great!!! I can't wait to try and build one.

Really neat looking gene. What foam?

Cool plane Gene. I like it.

Gene, that is awesome. Great work!

Is it R/E or rudder and elevons?

I have to agree, that just plain old looks COOL.



Glenn

Very nice Gene .. like the Art on the tail also ..

Can't remember who sent me the tail art, but it was a fellow Ezoner, about a year ago, for another GeeBee version. Thanks again, whoever it was, and chime in here and be recognized!

It's FanFold, painted (mostly) with a foam brush, using 50% Windex-cut craft paint. I tried (again) with a cheap airbrush, and found it wasn't worth the effort.

Yes, Rudder / Elevator. I know Elevons would work, and the tip dihedral would not be required, but there's just something about a wacky/fun R/E plane

Plans added to 1st post A nice feature of the new software... multiple attatchments, and able to add attatchments when editing Thanks Ezone!

Note, on the plans, I moved the wing back, to help with the cg problem I had. It is correctly marked on the updated plans.

*** Use small throws! I think 3/8" each way on elevator and 1/2" on rudder is where I have it right now.

Thanks Gene .. gottem saved for a rainy day ..

Thanks Gene As soon as I find some foam, I'll give it a go...

You said you could do rolls. Are you using elevons and rudder or just elevator and rudder?

Thanks

Just elevator / Rudder. The rudder rolls are the wacky part

After thinking about it for a while, it might be a cool one to do elevons and rudder, for 4 channel control...

But, that's the reason I put the dihedral in there... to make it more stable and relaxing when that's what you want to do.

Gene,

If you don't mind me asking, would this be a good first time scratch build for a new builder like me? I've been looking for a plane to fly in front of my house. This just might fill my need. How slow and stable can it fly?

Thanks again,
Ron

Ron: It should be fine. Just watch the cg and the throws. It doesn't need much throttle, either. With the DCM-189 I'm using, 1/2 throttle to launch is fine. With an IPS, it may need more. Hopefully someone will build one with an IPS and give us some feedback.

I figured I'd give some additional instructions here, based on the way I've done it. Experienced guys can take or leave my advice

This is one that you should be able to easily cut out one evening, glue the tips on overnight, and finish assembly in the morning.

As usual, I used various glues and methods on this one:

- Cut out one fuse side, skipping the rudder.
- Use it as a template to cut another.
- Strip the skin off the *inside* of both fuse sides, and lightly dust with 3M-77 or equal. Carefully join them, while still wet, so you have a little working time.
- Put a board, like a 1x12 or something on top of them on the bench, and sit a couple of 12 packs or similar weight on top to press them down.
- When you're down to the last beer... (just kidding)
- Cut out the 3 wing pieces, and cut the elevator off the center section.
- Form the airfoil by 'cold rolling' or another method, and match it to the drawings. I like to cold roll over the workbench edge, which is an old counter top with a rounded edge. You can also use a tube, pipe or ball bat. You basically knead the foam to slowly work the airfoil into it. Kind of over form it, since it will relax a little.
- When you have all 3 pieces formed, you need to trim them to fit. This is the biggest PITA in the whole assemby. What I like to do, is to prop up the tip of one piece, and lay it over the flat/center piece, and cut through both of them at once. One of these days I'm going to try this with a hot wire, but I've been using an Xacto. Then, I use a sanding block to fix any little slips or small mistakes.
- Once they fit reasonably well, then put a piece of masking tape on the top-center, to kind of hold the pieces together. Make sure to prop the tips up properly when doing this. Then, turn it over and lay a bead of ProBond in the gap, and then tape over the bottom, and follow by taping the top. Do this for both sides, then lay it on some wax paper with the tips propped up and go to bed...

- When the 2 assemblies are dry, remove the tape, and clean up any extra glue, etc.
- Now is when I like to round the edges, but I'm not sure it really matters. How I do it, is by lightly cutting just the skin, about 1/8" form the edge, all around the part I'm working on. I peel this off, and then sand the edges round. If I'm not going to paint, I put a 1" strip of tape around, to protect the edges. I've also used Polycrylic, and liked it pretty well.
- Install the motor stick with a little hot glue. I have it straight in this one, and it seems fine.
- For the split elevator, I made sure the 2 halves were the same size, and double beveled the LE, and rounded the TE. I left the sides alone. I joined them with a bamboo skewer, by slotting the LE for a fit, leaving 1/16" or so on each side for clearance. I attatched the Bamboo with hot glue, while assuring the halves were flat and square.
- For the rudder, I went single surface, and centered it on the double-thick fuse. I double beveled the LE, and rounded the TE.
- For Hinging, I used 1/4 x 1" strips of overhead transparency film. Tyvek from an envelope or CA hinges would work fine, too. Some guys have gone as far as cutting up the media in a floppy disk! I slot one edge with a #11 blade, put a drop of Zap-0 (odorless/foam-safe CA) on each side of a strip, and stick it in the slot. I pinch the foam down for 10 seconds or so to cure it. Once one side is done, I mark the other side, and slot and glue/insert the part. This can be tough, but stay with it. Once you have all the hinges inserted, then pinch each slot to cure. Make sure there is adequate room for movement, but no big air gaps.
- To put the wing in the slot, I cheated. I cut through the fuse from the back of the wing slot at a 45 degree angle or so back. Then I bent it over a little to get clearance for the wing/elevator. You may need to trim some room for the bamboo joiner to clear.
- Once you are satisfied with the fit of the wing, Mark on the wing on each side of the fuse, so you will be able to quickly tell where it goes when you are glueing. Get some blocks ready, and put a bead of hot glue along the top of the slot, and press the wing into place. Use the blocks to keep the wing and fuse square. After 30 seconds or so, you can bend the fuse a little on the bottom, and do the same there. Close up the cut used for insertion while you are at it.
- I like to get the cg as close as possible using the servos as a balance. Mount the motor to the stick, and screw it down. Get the servos, and put a little masking tape on them, so you can move them around. Stick them to the side of the fuse, and try to find a spot where you can balance on the suggested cg. Mark the spot, and trace them. Cut through the fuse for thier mounting. Assemble the arms you will be using, and hot glue the seros into position. You did plug them in and center them didn't you?

OK, now you can attatch the rx, esc, and battery velcro, and then go fly!