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Aug 27, 2014, 07:34 AM
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PDB for ZMR 250 Mystery Carbon Fiber Frame


PDB for the ZMR 250 frame
PDB: power distribution board. Solder all your esc, and fpv to the same place!

Last Batch #3 (closed): https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2293247
Get your board from (soon, restock expected 1st week of february): http://www.team-legit.com


Hello, after tons of people are pursaching the zmr cloneout mystery 250, a BlackOut Mini H Quad clon, I decided to make a pdb (power distribution board) with 20 LEDS, a buzzer, and a FPV filter.

This is the frame: http://www.banggood.com/H250-ZMR250-...6612772014075Q
As many people get involved in this version, this pdb was updated, and now it has much more stuff on it.
This is the last render version of the board:






Features:
  • Esc integration: Solder your esc on the board. You can also solder the signal wires to the pdb, so you even has less wires around there!

  • 3s and 4s compatibility. You can power 3s and 4s batteries. Also you can power 2s batteries, but most motors run at 3 and 4s.

  • Multiples FC supported: Naze32, Flip32, CC3D, kk board and any other 36x36mm.

  • Onboard 5v BEC: This board uses the lm2940 regulator to provide an output of 5v and 1 amp. You can power your flight control with that bec and buy OPTO esc. Also you can buy your normal esc, and power the flight control from the bec of the esc #1. You decide what you prefer

  • Fpv filter: Esc make noise to the fpv system, so this board has a inbuilt fpv filter to avoid that noise. All outputs are filtered on the pdb.

  • Optional 4S battery fpv regulator: If you want to run your fpv at 4S, you should know that some systems run only at 12v. So you can easily plug a pololu regulator step down, or step up-down and thats it!. https://www.pololu.com/product/2846 (kind #1 kind #2) Not only pololus regulators, any other regulators accepted as well, most people buy them on ebay.

  • Front Camera 3 power options: To cover all kinds of cameras, front camera can be powered from the battery, from the bec, or from the 4s regulator (in case you need it 12v from 4s).

  • Video transmitter power options: Same as front camera, the video could be powered from the battery or the 4s 12v optinal regulator. But also it can be used into the osd. In that case solder the AV wire to the OSD pad instead of the Camera AV, and you have your minim OSD full wired. You dont need to wire anything else!

  • Minim OSD integration. Minim OSD its very small, and it can be soldered under the FC, so you dont lost room for other components. It shows you the FC stats into your fpv, such as level, current voltage, bar, even rssi or gps speed and compass. Minim OSD kv version supported as well. Wires are minimal, you only need to solder the rx and tx pads next to the FC, and they are really close to it.

  • Evolved leg copper retraction. In the past some shorts happends using metalic spacers who bit the solder mask with the time. Carbon fiber its conductive, so in this version the shape of the legs has been retracted front the copper to keep a very solid anti-shorts system. Also any spacer has a retraction of 8mm to support metalic and nylon spacers.

  • Friendly Esc Pads: Esc pads angled to provide a easy solder even if you place your esc on the legs. There are also holes to provide wire access to the space between plates in case you plug your esc on the middle.

  • Auxiliary Front esc pads: Some people get wide lens on the fron camera, so they need to retract the camera much as possible. Front camera pads are retracted as well, but now you also have alternative power to avoid nuts from the camera hit the wires.

  • Optional Inbuild leds: This board has 20 leds on it, but there is a optional jumper to allow turning they off. Jumper its shorted by default, you dont need to short jumpers to get the board running as normal. Also you can use this solder jump to turn the leds on or off when you want with electronics.

  • Big holes: Big holes to make the board weigh less.

  • Optional inbuilt Buzzer: PDB includes a buzzer, just solder it its optional. Easy solder. Very usefull if you lost your quadcopter and you want to find it, or you want to setup your profiles without looking at the leds of the FC.

  • CleanFlight LEd System. Buy some WS2812 or WS2812b led stips, and make your quad cooler.

Last batch #2 order:


And this is the last real picture of board before the factory assembled the components on it:


Coming soon!
Last edited by overcraft; Jan 21, 2015 at 11:52 AM.
Aug 27, 2014, 07:55 AM
Registered User
MUAHAHAHAH! I must be the first!
Aug 27, 2014, 08:03 AM
Registered User
yes you are ;D
thanks!
Aug 27, 2014, 08:21 AM
Registered User
whoah that's great, I like it alot must have for the frame users
Aug 27, 2014, 08:44 AM
Here because of FPV
bradsears's Avatar
Great looking work. I would have been a buyer but I bought another solution. Yours looks better!
Aug 27, 2014, 09:13 AM
Registered User
TenFPV's Avatar
Looks good but as others I just put together mine with a different PDB.

My only suggestion would be if you could mount the ESC's to the PDB (and the three pads for the motors at each corner). That's the one feature I wish mine had.
Aug 27, 2014, 09:23 AM
Registered User
Wow. I never imagined one of these could be manufactured so cheaply. I was expecting the board to be much more expensive.
Aug 27, 2014, 09:34 AM
Registered User
Board cost is cheap if you order +30 boards, thats why im doing this, to get mines cheaper as well.

I dont like to solder the motors to the pdb, because where do you place the esc? Between plates? In that case the wires should be in different location. Anyway i think that is a mess for most people, i will leave it like that, i dont want to force people to move off the esc from the arms.
Aug 27, 2014, 09:37 AM
Registered User
The pdb will be black, not purple. There was not black on the 3d simulator. 1.6mm thick, 2oz copper ENIG finish (like gold pads)
Aug 27, 2014, 09:56 AM
Registered User
Have you thought about 4s power setups? You could add a 3pin header, so that a 12v Pololu regulator could be used to power the LEDs (assuming they are in series to run on 3s) and video system when running a 4s setup? Then add a solder jumper to select 3s (direct power to LEDs and video) or 4s (power through 12v regulator to video and LEDS).
Aug 27, 2014, 09:58 AM
Registered User
I like this. What color are the leds?
Aug 27, 2014, 10:03 AM
Registered User
Board works up to 4s, fpv only 3s.

Pololu step up-down cost 3 times the pdb. The cheap small ones are under 0.5A, im not sure if they can handle the tx and camera. Anyway you can put it by yourselft, just dont solder the fpv filter.
Aug 27, 2014, 10:06 AM
Registered User
8 front leds are white, the others reds. Like the original one. Like that hex
Blackout Mini Spider Hex PDB LEDs Testing (0 min 14 sec)
(not my video)
Aug 27, 2014, 10:07 AM
Registered User
Wow this looks great! One question, is the pdb intended to replace the middle carbon fiber plate, or sit on top of it. At first I thought sit on top of it, but that would mean the red spacers/standoffs would have to be able to go thru the pdb, are the holes big enough for that? Or if it's meant to replace the middle Carbon fiber plate will we still have as much strength with the arms being mounted to this instead of the carbon fiber? Or is it narrow enough to fit inside the red spacers in which case is this supposed to sit on standoffs or sit on the middle plate which seems like might be a problem since carbon is conductive? Or am I just missing something, looks real nice though.
Aug 27, 2014, 10:13 AM
Registered User
Yes it replace the middle board. Not a problem with the uggly red spacers (no copper round the holes), but im using black nylon spacers intead of that ones.

I think it is strong enough, original blackout uses the same thickness too


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