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Oct 08, 2014, 07:01 PM
"Devil Dog"
Junkman2008's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by inkslinger
With all the CNC part's does it make the 200 SRX fly any better? What would be the first thing to replace from the stock heli?


Whether or not it flies any better is subject to opinion but IMHO, the slight increase in weight makes it fly smoother. That increase in weight is not very much but it seems to help. Again, opinions may vary. As for upgrading, here's your thread.
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Oct 09, 2014, 06:07 PM
Registered User
Nice post!! It's what I been looking for something to hover around for this old guy!
Oct 09, 2014, 11:43 PM
Seahawks
Palm Desert Heli's Avatar

Well-done.


JM Thanks for a great beginners guide! Your guide motivated me to fix my broken tail boom. Rakon Carbon Tube Tail Boom? Did you install? Pros/Cons? I've got one ordered.

I don't see a Rakon 3-4-5 blade head replacement installed? On your list? Pros/Cons?

I'm not into bling for the sake of Bling. Which Rakon parts offer the best bang for the buck as a structural improvement?

Sorry if you've covered already.

Thanks!!
Oct 10, 2014, 04:28 AM
"Devil Dog"
Junkman2008's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Palm Desert Heli
JM Thanks for a great beginners guide! Your guide motivated me to fix my broken tail boom. Rakon Carbon Tube Tail Boom? Did you install? Pros/Cons? I've got one ordered.
The carbon tail boon shatters when it goes bad. The stock tail boom bends. Once a carbon tail boom shatters, it is toast. When the stock tail boom bends, it can sometimes be straightened out. Advantage: stock tail boom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Palm Desert Heli
I don't see a Rakon 3-4-5 blade head replacement installed? On your list? Pros/Cons?
I am upgrading my bird to the 5-blade head at the moment. You will have to check back to see my writeup when I post that thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Palm Desert Heli
I'm not into bling for the sake of Bling. Which Rakon parts offer the best bang for the buck as a structural improvement?

Sorry if you've covered already.

Thanks!!
Here's your thread.
Oct 10, 2014, 02:43 PM
Seahawks
Palm Desert Heli's Avatar
Tool ? Hex Kit. Only 1.5mm 2.0mm needed. Are these the same a TORX tools?

Thanks!!
Oct 10, 2014, 02:46 PM
Seahawks
Palm Desert Heli's Avatar
JM's You Want Rakon Heli Bling (Blade 200SRX) but You're On a Budget: Step On In!

Thanks!!!
Oct 10, 2014, 05:38 PM
Seahawks
Palm Desert Heli's Avatar
JM, Have you covered your battery choice? I've been using the Hobbyking Turnigy nano-tech 950mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack. $9.60

Thanks!!
Oct 11, 2014, 09:52 PM
"Devil Dog"
Junkman2008's Avatar
Thread OP
I do NOT recommend either of these two sites. The main reason is that Rakon Heli shows a picture of every part they sell on a weight scale along side the exact same OEM part on an identical scale. Most of Rakon's parts are LIGHTER than OEM. The main issue with bling is that some manufacturers make bling that adds so much weight to the bird that it becomes unflyable. I can vouch for Rakon's parts as I have PERSONALLY used ALL of the parts for the Blade 200 SRX and my bird flies with no issues. There are plenty of videos that show this also. I CANNOT vouch for any other company. The last thing that I want to be the cause of is someone spending a bunch of money on bling that causes them to be grounded so buy from other places at your own risk.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Palm Desert Heli
JM, Have you covered your battery choice? I've been using the Hobbyking Turnigy nano-tech 950mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack. $9.60

Thanks!!
The only battery that I have used is the stock one. I do not know (nor do I want to chance) what another battery might do to my bird without HH's blessing.
Oct 12, 2014, 06:58 AM
Registered User
Steve_'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008
The only battery that I have used is the stock one. I do not know (nor do I want to chance) what another battery might do to my bird without HH's blessing.
As long as the C rating, mAh rating, dimensions and weight are comparable,
it should not be an issue.

I mix and match brands of helicopters and batteries all the time with no problems.

Changing pinion gears by even one tooth changes the electrical characteristics of your
helicopter more than using a different brand battery, assuming that the batteries have
the same specs.

For example, changing from a 10 tooth to an 11 tooth will cause an increase in average
current flow by at least 5%, while running a different brand battery with identical
specifications will change the current consumption by such a small amount that you
would have to measure it to see the difference.

Of course many of the lower end battery manufacturers fudge the numbers to get
more sales, so you have to be aware that an Eflite pack will be much more likely to
match the rated specifications.

For the record, some of my generic packs have held up better than my branded Eflite packs.

Granted, high end cells generally have lower internal resistance and will give slightly
better performance, but few beginners would notice the difference.

It's not like the EFL1516 motor is a power-hungry monster.

I have used this motor in other birds running everything from 3S 800mAh packs to 3S 1300 packs,
although I wouldn't use anything much bigger than the stock pack on the 200SRX because the ESC
seems to be running close to the limit of it's capabilities, and the extra weight will increase the
average current flow through the ESC.

The biggest factor is the quality control, and a $10 pack might not have the same attention to detail
as a $20 pack with the same specs.

One area I have noticed them skimp is the wires. Many times they use smaller gauge wire on the
battery leads than what is used on a comparable name brand pack.

The better packs also usually use wire that has a higher strand count and silicone insulation for more
flexibility, reducing the chance of a broken wire.

Having a battery wire break while you are 50 feet up doing 30+ Mph is never a good thing,
especially on 300 size and larger birds.

My new favorite brand is Glacier. We just bought a 3S 2600 at the LHS for $30, and it has quality wire,
a 5C charge rating, and the capacity was conservatively rated.

There are pros and cons to running aftermarket batteries, but for the ultimate peace of mind,
sticking with OEM batteries is not a bad idea.
Last edited by Steve_; Oct 12, 2014 at 02:28 PM.
Oct 12, 2014, 02:28 PM
Seahawks
Palm Desert Heli's Avatar
Very good battery info review.

Is their a short beginners guide to bats?

I'd like to review if new battery break in is required & how long to fly a battery vs damaging it.

Thanks!!!
Oct 12, 2014, 02:40 PM
Registered User
Steve_'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Palm Desert Heli
Very good battery info review.

Is their a short beginners guide to bats?

I'd like to review if new battery break in is required & how long to fly a battery vs damaging it.

Thanks!!!
Not really any short way to learn all you need to know.

Although this is easy to read and should keep your interest.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
Last edited by Steve_; Oct 12, 2014 at 03:55 PM.
Oct 13, 2014, 12:09 AM
Seahawks
Palm Desert Heli's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_
Not really any short way to learn all you need to know.

Although this is easy to read and should keep your interest.

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html
Great info....Thanks!!
Oct 13, 2014, 02:48 AM
"Devil Dog"
Junkman2008's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_
... There are pros and cons to running aftermarket batteries, but for the ultimate peace of mind,
sticking with OEM batteries is not a bad idea.
And that right there nails my mentality. I'm sure that if I get a degree in "battology" that I would be able to understand those differences and utilize the advantages that may be had from going aftermarket. In reality, my life is just too darn hectic and I don't have the time nor desire to divulge what it would take to truly learn the business. I have to ask myself, is it worth $10 to learn, or is it better to spend my time working at what I do for 10 times that. In the end, I chose to do the latter because of the number one reason that you touched upon, it's a safe option.
Oct 13, 2014, 08:41 AM
Registered User
Steve_'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008
And that right there nails my mentality. I'm sure that if I get a degree in "battology" that I would be able to understand those differences and utilize the advantages that may be had from going aftermarket. In reality, my life is just too darn hectic and I don't have the time nor desire to divulge what it would take to truly learn the business. I have to ask myself, is it worth $10 to learn, or is it better to spend my time working at what I do for 10 times that. In the end, I chose to do the latter because of the number one reason that you touched upon, it's a safe option.
I would rather read about LiPo's.

Consider yourself blessed if you would rather work than play.

Surely there must be some interest in there? LiPo's are amazing.

It's almost beyond comprehension how much battery technology has evolved
over the last 30 years.

When I started in RC, a good hobby grade pack was a Tamiya 7.2v NiCad battery.

It had a 1200mAh capacity, a hard plastic case, and weighed as much as a brick.
Last edited by Steve_; Oct 13, 2014 at 09:44 AM.


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