Mega Speed Shark (1M) by Nanoplanes.net **Maiden Video** - Page 10 - RC Groups
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Oct 20, 2014, 01:25 PM
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MikeRx's Avatar
I definitely feel the inrunner thing, but you cannot beat the ease of fitting and light weight of the Microdan.

Here is the deal, no way around it.
The stab, elevator, ailerons, and wingtips WILL need a medium lightweight cloth covering. (1.5 oz) 30 minute resin for bond.
I will post info for all those who have never done this. It is easy and you will like the results.
I have flown from 23-25 oz auw and lighter is better.
Even a 1/2 oz heavier battery brings more flex into the v2.
YES, there is twisting to go with the flexing, so handling degrades quickly at maximun power, and any extra weight seems to compound it.
The extra carbon in the V3 is just the fix for flex, however, the properly sanded trailing edges of this are too thin to be just bare, film covered wood in the heavy winds generated.

YOU WILL have to glass these thin wood parts to avoid flutter.

The good news is that you have an uncommonly good strenth to weight, especially with the lighter Microdan motor.
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Oct 20, 2014, 05:52 PM
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NanoDave's Avatar
Hey Guys

I know there are some who want to use an Inrunner motor instead of the MicroDan motor.
Although this kit is designed for an outrunner it really is not very difficult at all to modify this to fit an inrunner. The best example of this is Stanordaves Speedshark.
He did an great job without too much trouble to change it.

Basically, there are only a few things to change:
1) Reposition the motor mount (firewall) to the very front of the fuselage nose and don't use the available slots.
2) Omit the front fuselage center divider part (the horizontal piece that divides the fuselage into an upper compartment and lower compartment) , this is where the inrunner will sit.
3) I might add some reinforcing Carbon fiber flat spars glued to the inside fuselage side walls and/or maybe some glassing inside or outside or both in the front nose area.

The Mega Shark will be even easier to do this modification because it has a longer front nose than the Speedshark. Since this is a builders kit, it is easy to make changes as you see fit while you build the airplane. That is part of the beauty of building your own kit, that you can make your own changes as you go and not be restricted 100% to the manufacturer design. If you can make wanted modifications and improvements I say go for it! Just be smart about it and be sure you didn't weaken anything in the structure. If you remove a part somewhere then be sure it is reinforced some other way to make up for it.

Unfortunately this is the best I can do, I just cannot make 2 versions of this kit right now. Sorry guys!
And thanks again for your patience guys... we are almost there!
Oct 22, 2014, 04:45 PM
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MikeRx's Avatar

glassing


Here is a couple pics of the glassing..
This was done with one batch of epoxy, however, I would recommend splitting the work up.. giving extra work time.
The key is painting the least amount possible to the structure.. a mini foam brush does well.
You cut pieces to size then smooth over surface using same foam brush.
A couple drops of denatured alcohol in the mix will help for thinning.
You should trim within an hour as it is easier than full cure.
I am only glassing the wing on the outer panels, as this is twist prone, and also the thin sanded trailing edges.
Oct 23, 2014, 10:33 AM
Yes..ok..maybe..lol.....
I actually like to trim the excess glass when it is fully cured. Then it is just a matter of running a piece of 220 grit sandpaperaround the border of the wing and the glass will literally peel off.
-Like to use Z-Poxy resin mixed with some denatured alcohol.
-After the glass has been placed on the wood and the resin has been painted on the glass,then I place toilet paper on top of the glass and run a foam roller over the toilet paper.Do this a couple of times. The toilet paper will absorb any excess resin. When done the glass should have a dry look to it.
Oct 23, 2014, 05:57 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by shhhhh!
I actually like to trim the excess glass when it is fully cured. Then it is just a matter of running a piece of 220 grit sandpaperaround the border of the wing and the glass will literally peel off.
-Like to use Z-Poxy resin mixed with some denatured alcohol.
-After the glass has been placed on the wood and the resin has been painted on the glass,then I place toilet paper on top of the glass and run a foam roller over the toilet paper.Do this a couple of times. The toilet paper will absorb any excess resin. When done the glass should have a dry look to it.
That sounds like a great way to get a very consistent lay-up for the glass. However, I'm more partial to trimming when the epoxy is somewhat pliable myself. Thanks for the tip.
Oct 24, 2014, 05:38 AM
Registered User
i like the aircraft ,awesome
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRx
Taking my time. 90% sanded and weighing 7.5 oz, or 1.5 oz more than my last Speed Shark at this stage.
At 21.5oz auw, this will be light!
I will have this flying as soon as the rest of the gear arrives..
Oct 24, 2014, 12:07 PM
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MikeRx's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by LUcaus87
i like the aircraft ,awesome
Hey thanks! I have to agree.. Prototype 2 is holding up nicely, flying nearly every day, 3-8 times!

The best part is the speed range.. this larger version slows down more than any other, and the stall break is subtle with little to no wing drop.

My only concern is elevator effectiveness.. this is why version 3 prototype is testing a larger stab and elevator.

25 flights ago..
I actually had a sort of crash!! I say sort of because I picked it up with minimal damage.. when executing a slow loop, I completely cut power relying on momentum and gravity to maintain pullout speed.. problem is that it had plenty of speed, just not enough elevator, or altitude... it met the low cut vegetation and ground at an estimated 60 mph. This was on high rate, max throw.
I have noticed a need to go max elevator on no wind landing approaches, with a lack of response.
On the flipside.. you can bury the elevator at 100 mph plus with no snap tendencies.
I will post a pic of the new stab and the rtc version 3..
Oct 24, 2014, 06:51 PM
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MikeRx's Avatar
Almost ready to cover.
Larger elevator and stab shown.
Adding screw down top hatch, in three seperate sections.
More rounding also..
Oct 24, 2014, 09:36 PM
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Hey Mike what's the outer diameter of the front of fuse ?
Oct 25, 2014, 01:59 PM
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MikeRx's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hubcapsteve
Hey Mike what's the outer diameter of the front of fuse ?
Roughly 34 mm depending on how sanded.. 30 mm inner.
Oct 25, 2014, 02:21 PM
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Here is a 35mm with folding gm 5x5, hmmmmm.....could be an interesting 3s setup
Oct 25, 2014, 02:26 PM
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This setup came out of an excite, fast as .............
Oct 25, 2014, 05:47 PM
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MikeRx's Avatar
Shark mouth!
Apc still turns smooth despite very obvious wear from over 20 flights.. a testament to the slow landings.
Oct 29, 2014, 08:15 PM
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MikeRx's Avatar

Number 3


Came out nice and flew a few packs with no drama.
Looks like this is stiff enough.
Larger stab and elevator work down slow..with less throw needed.
Good visibility from the fluorescent paint.
All screw on hatches. No tape.
Carbon skids.
Successful!
Oct 29, 2014, 08:39 PM
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Jezzejamez's Avatar
I'll take it....

Ops not the for sale thread..
Nice work Mike.. As usual


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