Originally Posted by estojicm

Yes,serial to PPM input. The value of this resistor is not critical,just used first at hand. I used 1S lipo as a quick solution, just to test if it works. Voltage regulator on board is probbably not good enough for any lipo voltage, so I'll put regulated 5V eventally.

3.3v regulator should work fine with LiPo

Still ... There are some cheap 5v step up in case ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Boost-...-/131040239382
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Power-...-/251391261778

But ... I bet the module will work fine even when LiPo is just 3.7v without any step up ...

I still dont understand how this works..
I see that NRF24L01 gets plugged into I2C to SPI adapter
I'll be using a 1 S lipo to power this setup..

What else do I need? I'm using Frsky taranis..

Originally Posted by landguy

I still dont understand how this works..
I see that NRF24L01 gets plugged into I2C to SPI adapter
I'll be using a 1 S lipo to power this setup..

What else do I need? I'm using Frsky taranis..

So you can do as following:

Do you have any FrSky PPM RX ? Like D4R-II ?

If yes ... then more easy and practice is following:

Keep using FrSky taranis with internal 2.4G radio on.

Connect the FrSky D4R-II to the module (i2c adapter + NRF24), by connecting FrSky RX CH1 into the SDA pin of the i2c adapter.
Power up FrSky RX and DIY module using 1S lipo, it will work just fine.

Power up your WLtoy v2x2 copter.
Power up the Taranis
Power up the FrSky RX and DIY with your 1S lipo

It should start the auto-bind ... and after 3 seconds it will be ready to fly.

Remember that trim and end point could be totally off

I have a spare x8r... but it seems like it doesnt output ppm.

Maybe I'll need to get a D4R-II.

Do you have any suggestion on the programmer I need? I only have the ftdi stick from HK.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ulti_Wii_.html

Maybe I should get this instead?
http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/180980285...84.m1438.l2649

and I'll burn the hex file you provided with extreme burner to the i2c adapter.

Is that correct?

Originally Posted by landguy

I have a spare x8r... but it seems like it doesnt output ppm.

Maybe I'll need to get a D4R-II.

Do you have any suggestion on the programmer I need? I only have the ftdi stick from HK.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...ulti_Wii_.html

Maybe I should get this instead?
http://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/180980285...84.m1438.l2649

and I'll burn the hex file you provided with extreme burner to the i2c adapter.

Is that correct?

You need the USBasp for program the i2c module ... you also need some jumpers, since i2c module have the 6 avr programming pin (miso/mosi/sck,rst,gnd and vcc) not in the 'classic' 3x2 layout

For program the i2c module I use eXtreme burner

Possibly on taranis the training port can be used directly for feed the module ... I may give a try on mine ... I have taranis but I almost never use it

Other than the trainer port, why don't we use the module slot?

http://eastbay-rc.blogspot.sg/2014/0...e-pin-out.html
Pin 1 -- signal (PPM)
Pin 3 -- Positive battery voltage
Pin 4 -- Ground

So I'll connect Pin1 to SDA, Pin 3 to 5V and Gnd to Gnd. Using the Jumper cables for USBasp for this..

Just need to confirm if the pinout of taranis is 5V.

Originally Posted by landguy

Other than the trainer port, why don't we use the module slot?

http://eastbay-rc.blogspot.sg/2014/0...e-pin-out.html
Pin 1 -- signal (PPM)
Pin 3 -- Positive battery voltage
Pin 4 -- Ground

So I'll connect Pin1 to SDA, Pin 3 to 5V and Gnd to Gnd. Using the Jumper cables for USBasp for this..

Just need to confirm if the pinout of taranis is 5V.

Yes this is also an option

Pin3 could be as much as the battery inside your taranis, so 8 or 12v ... this will kill the atmega48 chip on board

Yup, did a check, same as my battery..
In this case I'll still power the i2c direct from 1 s.. easier without needing to buy voltage regulator.

Purchased the items.. now to wait for it to arrive.



Thank you! will let you know if it works..

Managed to get it work.. but only with d4r.

when using directly from the module port, with just ppm from it being connected to SDA, the blue light (yellow on my I2C actually) doesn't flash.

But when i connect it from d4r, its flashing.

I had to do some channel switching, from taer to aetr but how should i do a transmitter calibration to this? the step of my control is very huge, for example moving my throttle a little it seems to jump to 50% throttle on the quad..

Originally Posted by landguy

Managed to get it work.. but only with d4r.

when using directly from the module port, with just ppm from it being connected to SDA, the blue light (yellow on my I2C actually) doesn't flash.

But when i connect it from d4r, its flashing.

I had to do some channel switching, from taer to aetr but how should i do a transmitter calibration to this? the step of my control is very huge, for example moving my throttle a little it seems to jump to 50% throttle on the quad..

Calibrate this TX module is a bit tricky ... I did use an arduino v2x2 decoder for read my TX module signal

I may try to squeeze some auto calibration ... or just put some blinking when all the stick are center and when they reach the expected end point ...

Only way you have for calibrate it is on your TX side, set proper center point, proper Expo and end point ... quite a try error without a arduino v2x2 reader ...

Is it possible to make it as per the default where you have to move throttle all the way up and back down again to initialize the quad?

Originally Posted by landguy

Is it possible to make it as per the default where you have to move throttle all the way up and back down again to initialize the quad?

Yes, it sound an idea to use the binding phase for read the center and low throttle .. and then wait and read throttle signal ... so in this way it can read center and high and low value ...

If I have time ... tomorrow I can give a try and make a new firmware

Let me know how it goes! Thank you

Hi, I've built the module(to fit an empty frsky module) but the LEDs both blink(alternating) which indicates an error with the nrf module. Tomorrow I can hook up my logic analyzer to check if there is any communication. Is there anything else I can check before that?

Originally Posted by KoekieMonster

Hi, I've built the module(to fit an empty frsky module) but the LEDs both blink(alternating) which indicates an error with the nrf module. Tomorrow I can hook up my logic analyzer to check if there is any communication. Is there anything else I can check before that?

Just double check that you put in the firmware with the right fuse bit. Even if it should not go in NRF24 error also at 1Mhz in case.

I guess you could have not put on reverse the NRF24 module over the i2c/spi adapter ... so ... actually one of my NRF24 module I was able to kill it by touch ... but it was only one ... and I did mess on the risky edge with multiple without causing any damage

If you have a arduino nano or mini ... you can try to check if the arduino NRF24 mirf ping server-client application is working ...