Warpquad - Acro & FPV
- String Theory Acro Frames
- MotoWii FC
- 'Z'-Pod FPV Concept
230mm String Theory Frame
--- Full Details ---
I'm going to start trying to keep up with videos here too!
New one from BOP with the 5mm 230mm arms...
One from Bird Of Prey! Amazing flying with the Maggie!
270mm String Theory Frame
--- Full Details ---
Incredible flying from Quadmovr!!!...
These are his builds here...
And more here...
200mm String Theory Frame
--- Full Details ---
--- Full Details --- (and details below from Moto Moto)
Warpquad 'Z'-Pod FPV Concept
--- More pics ---
Designed for fast forward flight, in high power FPV craft, so you can see where you're going.
- Mass is centralised as close as possible to the centre of gravity
- Centre of gravity is as close as possible to the centre of the prop disks
- FPV weight is centred on the 'Z' axis and balanced by the lipo
- Symmetric for even Pitch / Roll response and easy tuning
- Both cameras are tilted back 30 degrees
- Both cameras have prop free vision
- The camera becomes level in steady forward flight
- Ground is in the lower 1/5th of the screen, with a 2.8 lens, on take off and low hover
- Removable and transferable between frames
- Power is only connection between frame and pod
- Connected with cable ties to break free in a hard crash
- Mass dampened and isolation mounted
- Antenna's radiation pattern is level in FFF and placed well clear of obstruction
- Off the self parts
- Aerodynamic - it does make a difference!!!
Cons at the moment...
It's a hack
Dubious RX placement
VTX is exposed in a crash
Pod needs improved aerodynamics
Antenna extension cable needs a double right angle (on its way)
Better suited in size to the 270mm frame at the moment
Need better lipos!
The next step is head tracking. First a single servo on pitch, working up to a 3 axis brushless gimbal More details to come...
Thanks for reading, more details are to follow. If you are interested in reading more on the development of the acro frames it started being quietly discussed from here...
*** Please note these are frames only. Hobby level skills are required for construction (see below)
Last edited by Soma; Apr 13, 2015 at 07:07 PM.
Construction Video Series... Warpquad String Theory frame.
- Use a fresh square of sandpaper for each part.
- Some plates are sized so the screws thread through the lower plate and then thread into the arms. The top plates are looser so they slip over the screws. If your plates are labeled top and bottom, this is the reason. It is to keep tolerances as tight for the firmest frame possible.
- There is a spare high tensile / stainless steel screw included in the fastener pack to thread through the carbon before using the alloy screws.
Epoxying Motor Wires...
Power Loom Construction...
New power loom method here...
Also, a fifth set of smaller wires can be added to run the FC directly from the lipo distribution point to keep the voltage as clean as possible.
*** I'm now recommending heatshrinking the arm first, then following the standard procedure. This for an extra layer of insulation to protect the ESC from the carbon. *** 10mm heatshrink just fits over the arm, 12mm would be ideal.
Main Assembly Amendment...
At times there are top and bottom plates marked. During QC if some are tighter tolerance I make them lower plates, and the slip fitting ones tops. The lower ones require the screw to thread through. They fit nice and tight but the threads will still slip to pull up tight on the arms. The top plates are looser so they can slip over the tops of the threads in final assembly.
The arms are sized similarly. The motor screw holes are a slip fit while the frame side holes at times require the included hi tensile steel screw to thread through them first (so you don't wear out the alloy screws). This is all in an endeavour to keep the frame as tight as possible given any variables at hand.
To assemble, thread the screws through the lower plate until the ends just protrude, and then start them into the arm. Keep the gap even between the two and evenly pull in the gap as the heads reach the lower plate.
Low Profile Motor Pins for Quadcopter FC Board...
Last edited by Soma; Dec 06, 2015 at 05:05 PM.
MotoF3 STM32F3 Flight Controller
The MotoF3 is an integrated flight controller, power distribution board and frame plate for the Warpquad 200/230/270 frames. The board has a 32-bit STM32F3 CPU with 256K of program flash for compatibility with Cleanflight or Betaflight firmware using the MOTOLAB board target. On-board features include 2Mbyte SPI flash memory for blackbox data logging, audio buzzer, and a 4S compatible switching power supply. Interfaces include PPM, SBUS, Spektrum SAT, and two external UART channels (in addition to the third UART dedicated for SBUS/SAT). The built-in DFU USB device is used to avoid conflict with UART interfaces. Four PWM outputs for motors plus two additional PWM signals for servo passthrough are provided.
The MotoF3 greatly simplifies assembly by eliminating the need for a spider-style wiring harness. The LIPO battery and ESCs all connect directly to the board.
Note: We strongly recommend the "Moto Sammich" style construction for maximum structural integrity, using 18 or 20mm bolts and the full Warpquad frame plate as a top cover.
These boards can be ordered with Warpquad kits on ImpulseRC's website here:
or as in integrated frame/flight controller kit here:
Soma's build video for the MotoF3/Warpquad frame kit
Additional Assembly Notes
The bottom side of the PCB contains the power distribution circuitry. It is covered by solder mask which provides some electrical isolation, but it is necessary to use additional insulation between the board and the carbon-fiber Warpquad arms. A layer of electrical tape on the arms trimmed to the outline of the arms seems to work well.
Solder a lipo pigtail into the two holes at the bottom of the board. 14ga wire is recommended. Lipos up to 4S may be used. Solder the ESC + and - battery leads to the pads on each corner of the board. Observe the polarity markings on all connections. Some ESCs will require crossing the power leads. Solder the signal wire of the ESCs to the small pads between the power leads.
Receiver connections for SBUS or Spektrum SAT devices use the 3-pin connections labelled as such. 1.5mm JST sockets may be installed on top or bottom of the board. If installed on the bottom, the SAT connector pin order will be reversed from standard.
For receiver installation under the top cover, make sure the receiver isn't smashed into the ICs on the flight controller. That will usually require removing the header pins or connector on the receiver and attaching the wires directly to the PCB, as here:
PPM receivers will connect to the labelled header pins. Install the buzzer on the board observing polarity.
For Blackbox data logging using the on-board flash, set blackbox_device=SPIFLASH in the Configurator CLI.
Firmware installation instructions are detailed here:
Technical support for setup questions and troubleshooting is available on this thread:
Historical MotoWii Documentation
This information applies only to the discontinued MotoWii board, retained here as an archive.
Notes on MultiWii configuration and installation are here:
Custom MultiWii Sketch
This board differs from any of the standard MultiWii boards and requires a customized version of the MultiWii code. The source code for the "sketch" for MultiWii 2.3 for MotoWii is attached. In Arduino, select "Leonardo" as the board type. These sketches are based on a snapshot of MultiWii later than 2.3 that runs the looptime faster, around 2200uS instead of 2600 in the MultiWii 2.3 release.
V2 has the ESC calibration high throttle duration increased from 3 to 8 seconds to work with slow-starting ESCs like some versions of BLHELI.
V3 has KISS 125uS Oneshot mode support selectable with #define ONESHOT. This will work on any PROMICRO target including NanoWii and Flip Pro. Oneshot mode requires shorting the 125uS option jumpers J1 on the ESCs.
V3 also has the FAILSAFE_OFF_DELAY reduced from 20 seconds to 5 seconds so the motors will stop quicker in a failsafe.
MotoWii connects to receivers using Spektrum satellite or PPM-SUM interfaces. The sketch is preconfigured for SPEKTRUM 2048 using the header labeled SAT. The S, G and V pins are signal, ground and Vcc (3.3V). To use PPM-SUM instead, connect to the header labeled G, V and PPM for ground, Vcc, and signal. Comment the SPEKTRUM define and uncomment the required PPM_SUM define in the sketch. (Do NOT uncomment #define PPM_ON_THROTTLE - that does not apply to this microcontroller.)
The sketches linked above support automatic ESC calibration without reloading the sketch. This requires installation of a two-pin header on the connector labeled "CAL" on the board. The ESCs are properly calibrated to the range of the MINCOMMAND to MAXTHROTTLE values in the sketch.
To perform calibration:
1) REMOVE THE PROPELLERS The calibration function sends full throttle signals to the ESCs and the potential for disaster exists unless the props are removed.
2) Install a shorting jumper on the CAL header.
3) Connect a lipo. Wait for the beeping to complete, in about ten seconds. Note: The motors will not spin during calibration.
4) Disconnect the lipo and remove the jumper. Calibration is complete.
ImagesView all Images in thread
Last edited by Moto Moto; Jan 07, 2016 at 12:09 PM.
Soldering station - adjustable temperature.
- 0.8mm Round Tip
- 4mm Chisel Tip
- Solder 60/40 Tin/Lead
- Solder Wick 2-3mm wide
- Distilled water for tip cleaning pad
Wet & Dry Sandpaper 240 & 600 Grit (and sanding pad)
2.5mm Hex Driver
1.5mm Hex Driver - For motor shaft set screws
5.5mm Nut Driver
8mm Nut Driver
100% Isopropyl Alcohol
Servo Tester (or just use your RX)
ESC Calibration Cable
Scorpion Motor Bearing Oil
or Sewing Machine Oil
DuBro Prop Balancer - I still havent found a magnetic balancer of high enough quality
NITTO Electrical Tape
Blade Balancing Tape - For hubs, but do not use on these high speed applications!
5 Minute Epoxy - (Only if motor wires require it)
(Local Hardware or Supermarket)
Ideally the frame was designed for the Flyduino Nanowii FC and KISS 12 /18A ESCs...
Have a look at witespy's store for great electronics!...
Have a look at witespy's store...
(Get the satellite plug soldered on, and request right angle pins on only the first 4 motor outputs)
Power jumper config...
You only need a satelite RX with the Flip Pro, but you also need one normal RX to bind them. Get this...
And then for future boards you just need more of these...
LemonRX support thread...
Ready to assemble onto the Warpquad
Last edited by Soma; May 29, 2014 at 07:56 PM.
Links to Builds...
1. WarpQuad arrival
2. XT60 connector mod and power distribution source
3. Motor wire runs and color hardware
4. ESC configuration and mounting + flash port and antenna relocation
5. She flies
6. Blutooth PID tuning
7. HK Frame Comparison
With KISS ESCs
Here's Flits's mod of the Z-Pod using the impossibly small TBS 500mW VTX
Final Glide's Franken-Warp
And that one flying!!!
Another from BOP...
I've so lost track of all the great builds! The thread has been moving so quick. Hopefully I'll catch up sometime!
Last edited by Soma; Nov 09, 2014 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Added Quadmovr's build blog link
That was Flits's first time flying in a month, first session with the copter, flying my control setup, and trying not to crash my prototype
He's a madman! Top Pilot That's him trying to take it easy!
We were all surprised how easy it is to adapt to the angled cam. It just feels right. It just doesn't hover very well.
But as a wise man said "Hovering gets you nowhere"
On a more serious note...
One of my 3S Nano-Techs shows up as a 2-cell battery when I put the voltage checker on the balance lead. Same indication when I put it on the charger. I put the DMM on the main plug and get 7.6 volts.
Can it be fixed? Can it be flown (even if as a 2S)?
Last edited by EArHog; May 29, 2014 at 09:30 PM.
Wow the fpv looks like it will be fast and furious New thread looks great too. Anyone with issues seeing the small stuff soldering as I do, I just picked this up and it is working great! You can get up to 6x magnification with it. I'm using the 2.5x while prepping my new esc to install and it is so easy to see what I'm doing now and much easier to keep solder from getting where it shouldn't. The solder tips I finally got help too. The chisel tip is much better for getting the larger wires off the esc than the single medium tip I trudged through the initial build with.
Seeing better would help, for sure. But stopping my hand from shaking and bouncing all over the place while I'm trying to set the iron down on that one tiny little spot is a bigger issue for me.
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