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got one half of the wing bagged up and trimmed. This build may take some time..
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Wooohooo! More PMS goodness! Nice one Jono!!
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Haha no shortage of kevlar hehe
You can hit me next time you see me for that one lol |
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What was your layup in the end Jono?
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Hmmmmm I put the kevlar in the wrong side . Well that's what you get with idiots building when they should leave it to someone that knows what they are doing !! Fortunately I have not laid up the other side so now (for extra durability) I can have Kevlar on both sides
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I used on each side :
1 layer of 200 gsm double bias carbon 2 layers of 200 gsm carbon uni 2 layers of 200 gsm glass 1/4 oz vale cloth and some extras in areas that need some extra strength I am looking to have a heavy layup for the first PMS 2. My Scorcher is 3.7 kg and easily flies at the local ridge. I think heavy is good for cutting through our rough air. Jono |
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Should be a good ngaio weight with that layup. Maybe around 3.5kg rtf. Should pop you happily well over 250
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I just need 271. then I will be happy
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Haha, do it!
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Jono, I must have done that 3 or 4 times - putting the Kevlar on the wrong side. So easy to do.
Hey if you're using 2 layers of 200gsm uni, have you looked at getting 400gsm? Reason for suggesting it is that heavier carbon cloths are usually not significantly more expensive than the lighter stuff. This might cause a storm of comment on the science of layups. My thinking is rather than using 2 x 200gm glass on the outside, get the first layer of carbon in as close to the outside surface as possible, particularly the biased stuff. Just that extra bit of width separating the carbon layers on top and bottom side increases the stiffness. Ideally if you can spare enough carbon, you want to get span and chord fibres, plus biased fibres, (ie one layer of square laid and one layer of bias laid) as close to the outside of the skin as possible, then maybe some layers of thick glass to add weight and act like a heavy "core", then again square and biased layers, then lots of unicarbon next to the cavity. That would give maximum stiffness in bend and torsion for the amount of carbon used. I've given up on the veil. The method of laying glass in over the paint, wet up with fast resin, and letting it go green before doing the rest of the layup is so good for preventing print and bubbles. You can really work the glass into the corners and get rid of any air, then walk away and when you come back you have a nice grippy stable surface to lay up into. 80 or 100gsm glass works fine, but it's best if its workable, not stiff. |
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Andrew
I have about 30m of 200gsm uni so I will stick with it until its finished as I dont have much of a build budget at the mo. I will look into it for my next purchase though. I seldomly build light so heavy cloth is good for me. I find that the uni and the double bias are not very smooth ad the pattern shows through so I put a vale cloth and a 200gsm glass first to keep the skin smooth. Then I like sandwich the carbon and glass because I feel that it sticks together better. It may be just because you can really tell if glass is wet out properly but its hard to tell with carbon. My double bias is is on at 45 degrees and my uni is all end to end to try and get lengthways stiffness (uni) in the wing and twist stiffness (bias) particularly in the flaps and ailerons The layup went from the outside painted surface to the inside where there will be a foam core vale, 200gsm glass, 200gsm double bias (on the bias), 200 gsm uni (end to end) 200gsm glass, 200gsm uni (end to end), vale cloth. Then there was extra carbon and Kevlar in the ailerons, flaps and wing bolt areas Zero science involved. I just pile in the material to try and get a strong, heavy wing. Building with ignorance is my motto Jono |
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Sounds good really Jono. Building without skill or common sense is my motto.
I agree about being hard to tell if the carbon is wet out. You probably have a good method but mine is to wet out on a piece of greaseproof paper, dobbing with the brush/ rolling/ whatever. Then I flip it over and do it from the other side. Then if you get a piece of dry paper towel and press it down all over, the dry areas on the paper towel highlight any areas that are dry. My general rule is to use far more epoxy than I probably should need, and then suck heaps of it back out again with paper towel blotting and then with the vacuum pulling back into many layers of paper towel. I know I shouldn't do that but I'm lazy. |
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PMS look great Jono. Im keen to see what you think of it compared to the scorcher. I dare sar for the similar weight the PMS will go better as your scorcher is glass and I imagine gets twisted around a little by turbulence even though its heavy.
I was going to say the same thing about wetting out Andrew, Lay in lots of resin and then use lots of paper towel to suck a lot back out. Not the most frugal or scientific of methods but seems to work. |
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I have 1 word, COMPOFLEX !!!!!!
its a magic peelply and breather combo... i just put wayyyyy too much resin in and it pulls all the excess out.. and just peels off a dream... Here's a picture from my latest bop which had 6 layers of carbon... pulled all the excess out (normally its not that drenched tho but 6 layers is a lot of excess resin) seriously it makes it soo easy |
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