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Mar 11, 2015, 01:54 PM
kha
kha
openLRSng haxor
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepnawillys
Don't think you can get pwm out, only ppm. To configure you just power it up when the GUI says to. Update fw with the USB. Don't forget to have a antenna on it to do anything
All outputs are capable of PWM, albeit there is not too many of them. Refer to RX configuration dropdowns for available functions.
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Mar 11, 2015, 03:44 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kha
All outputs are capable of PWM, albeit there is not too many of them. Refer to RX configuration dropdowns for available functions.
Right on! Thanks Kha!

I just have to wait for the postman to bring me the other one I ordered, then I will mess with it.

Thanks All!

Btw, Kha, I always thought that when it came time to get a Long Range System, it would be between Dragonlink, or EZUHF. I watched hours of videos on those systems. But then I learned about OpenLRS and have not looked back. Not only is it less expensive, it has also been tons of fun learning about it!! I feel like I'm getting away with something. It is a great system. So thanks for all the hard work. And thanks again for the help.
Mar 13, 2015, 02:01 AM
Registered User
I was able to get the port that is labeled SDA, to become my PWM channel 7 on the Brotronics PowerTowerRX. So now it is doing exactly what I wanted. PPM for all my Naze32 commands, and one PWM channel that lets me turn on and off my LED lights

Thanks again for all the help, guys.
Mar 26, 2015, 01:46 AM
Registered User
Does this rx support 459mhz? Sucks as all the new hawkeye stuff only supports up to 453mhz. No good for uk...
Mar 26, 2015, 03:44 AM
kha
kha
openLRSng haxor
Quote:
Originally Posted by discophil
Does this rx support 459mhz? Sucks as all the new hawkeye stuff only supports up to 453mhz. No good for uk...
OpenLRSng allows going up to 463MHz on all supported hardware, it will be out of spec for the RFMs but it will still work quite fine.
Nov 28, 2015, 12:06 PM
Registered User
I wrote a page explaining how to wire and use the Brotronics Broversity RX:
http://marc.merlins.org/perso/rc/pos...ng-Manual.html
Jun 29, 2016, 01:17 PM
Registered User
So, I just got a power tower RX and sadly it's also quite lacking in documentation, or even basic pin labelling.
Here is what I found out, through trial and error and a multi meter. If someone can confirm or correct, that would be grand:

There are 8 outputs in the RX configurator, but I believe only 7 are wired (#5 seems to be going nowhere?)
If you use the buzzer for loss signal and loss model finder (you should) and don't solder to use RX/TX, you're really only left with 3 servo ports since #1 is used for PPM to your flight controller:
Port 2 can be connected to directly and 3 and 4 (RSSI and SCL) need to have a custom cable made because the layout did not include enough pins to just replicate Gnd/Vcc in the right places.

1 PPM
2 labelled SDA, can be analog
3 labelled RSSI on board, can be sending different signal to lbeep pin if you solder a jumper
4 labelled SCL, can be analog
5 may not be wired anywhere
6 link loss indicator (buzzer port, labelled BZ+ BZ-)
7 RX
8 TX

The labelling on the board is pretty poor though. It goes like this:
1 PPM (port #1)
2) Vcc (+ on the board is not aligned with it)
3) Gnd (not labelled at all)
4) Gnd (labelled -, off center a bit)
5) RSSI (port #2)
6) lbeep (I believe it's also port #2 and activated by a soldered jumper)

The wiring does allow to plug a servo cable directly into PPM on one side and Gnd/5V/SDA on the other side.
This means you can connect to port #1 and port #2 directly with a servo cable.
Port #3 require that you route your own wires to make a servo cable out of pin 5 inthe back, Vcc and Gnd
Port #4 is the same with SCL, you have to make your own cable and route Vcc and Gnd
Port #5 does not seem to exist on the pins I could find
Port #6 is nicely wired with Bz- and Bz+, you just connect a 2 pin powered buzzer there
Ports 7-8 for RX/TX are on the other side of the board, you have to solder on them for some reason.

The battery port is also missing a header, but at least it has holes to add one. To be honest, I have no idea why anyone would buy this receiver if you're not going to use the battery backup. There are otherwise some cheaper or better wired ones you can buy (I did buy it for the battery backup which I think is a fantastic idea)