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Jun 12, 2014, 04:13 PM
Registered User
Worth a try - it looks like there are 16 philips head screws to remove to get top of housing off:
3 under each motor (12 total).
2 beside each leg (inside and outside) on each arm.
2 others perpendicular to battery orientation.
Is this correct?

Do you have to remove the legs (allen screws) to get the outside screws beside the legs out - I don't think I can get a screwdriver in unless I do?

Someone mentioned there are photos in one of the posts showing the connections, particulary how the GPS module is plugged in - does anyone know what the URL to that post is?

Thanks for all the help.
CK

Quote:
Originally Posted by JPAlbee
I was looking through YS-S4 draft manual and found an interesting note related to ARMing motors: Motor arming will fail if GPS module is not connected.

You may want to follow earlier suggestion to open up the casing and look at GPS connections to GPS unit and the FC.

I hope this work for you.
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Jun 12, 2014, 04:17 PM
Registered User
caddy77's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPAlbee
Caddy, check the AP Version number via the GUI (upper right entry). The stock firmware is 141043. What version did you flash?

Then do the configuration of transmitter (lower right under TX graphical depiction of sticks) and see if that helps.
Thanks JPAlbee for your response!

My firmware is 140053. ZeroUAV's FW is not compatible with WLtoys. After flashing the FW the Transmiter won't work anymore. All axis are reversed and the red light stays on because "RTH" is not anymore on one of the two switches on Tx.

I replaced now the Rx and Tx with my Spektrum Dx6i. Here i can reverse the channels and everything works again! The only differense is, i can only arm the motors when the GPS Signal is found. With WLtoys "version" i could still fly with bad or no GPS signal.
Jun 12, 2014, 04:33 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by CitizenKane
Worth a try - it looks like there are 16 philips head screws to remove to get top of housing off:
3 under each motor (12 total).
2 beside each leg (inside and outside) on each arm.
2 others perpendicular to battery orientation.
Is this correct?

Do you have to remove the legs (allen screws) to get the outside screws beside the legs out - I don't think I can get a screwdriver in unless I do?

Someone mentioned there are photos in one of the posts showing the connections, particulary how the GPS module is plugged in - does anyone know what the URL to that post is?

Thanks for all the help.
CK
If you click on thread tools (top right) and select show attachments, it will show all the pictures. Although I don't think there are any decent pics of the gps connectors.
Jun 12, 2014, 04:38 PM
Close to CAMPX Ians Old School
ill weigh the mobius and bolt I use go mount to the gimbal
it works like a charm out of the box with the GLB gimbal
no balancing theatrics or engineering degree required





Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
The problem with all the gimbals available are they have motors that are larger than necessary for the lightweight Mobius. And gimbals/motors original designed for larger cameras like a goPro present balance problems for the gimbal motors as well as the airframe. Balance can be equalized with some finagling, but you're still saddled with hauling around extra unnecessary weight. To be released soon is a gimbal (reportedly) using smaller motors to minimize the excess weight and balance issues. This thread should show the details if you haven't found it.
Jun 12, 2014, 04:41 PM
Close to CAMPX Ians Old School
CK
see post 1191 lmk if you need more pics
and yes the legs have to come off to access the screw diagnoally intereferes with by the leg


Quote:
Originally Posted by CitizenKane
Worth a try - it looks like there are 16 philips head screws to remove to get top of housing off:
3 under each motor (12 total).
2 beside each leg (inside and outside) on each arm.
2 others perpendicular to battery orientation.
Is this correct?

Do you have to remove the legs (allen screws) to get the outside screws beside the legs out - I don't think I can get a screwdriver in unless I do?

Someone mentioned there are photos in one of the posts showing the connections, particulary how the GPS module is plugged in - does anyone know what the URL to that post is?

Thanks for all the help.
CK
Jun 12, 2014, 05:26 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by CitizenKane
...
Someone mentioned there are photos in one of the posts showing the connections, particulary how the GPS module is plugged in - does anyone know what the URL to that post is?

Thanks for all the help.
CK
This shows the FC. Click on the image and you'll zoom in close. The GPS plug is on the upper left side of the FC.

You can also see some of the hand-wired connections (e.g. the motor power wires) are less than perfect.
Jun 12, 2014, 05:37 PM
Registered User
Thank you.
CK

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
This shows the FC. Click on the image and you'll zoom in close. The GPS plug is on the upper left side of the FC.

You can also see some of the hand-wired connections (e.g. the motor power wires) are less than perfect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HotWheelsMojo
CK
see post 1191 lmk if you need more pics
and yes the legs have to come off to access the screw diagnoally intereferes with by the leg
Jun 12, 2014, 06:03 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by caddy77

I replaced now the Rx and Tx with my Spektrum Dx6i. Here i can reverse the channels and everything works again! The only differense is, i can only arm the motors when the GPS Signal is found. With WLtoys "version" i could still fly with bad or no GPS signal.
I have no idea if the following will work but there was a new config sequence in this thread yesterday I think. In a video. It is supposed to allow non-GPS flight. The sequence is pretty simple .... leave sticks centered and toggle RTH switch 12 times .. then wait til red-green or green-green LED flashing. I don't know that it will work .. but might be worth a try.
Last edited by JPAlbee; Jun 12, 2014 at 06:03 PM. Reason: typo
Jun 12, 2014, 07:20 PM
Registered User
I got the top off and inspected all connections and all seemed fine. I pressed in all connectors although they all seemed firmly seated. Retried arming motors still nothing. Pressed all connectors again and lightly tapped FC and tried arming motors again AND THEY STARTED. Ran normally for 10-30 seconds and stopped. Re-armed and they started again and ran for quite sometime and stopped by themselves again. Tried several more times and motors always came on and turned off normally the same way (sticks down and out). There must be a cold-solder joint or a lose connection pin and I am afraid to fly until I can determine what is causing the intermittent motor shut-down. Still have not been able to attain GPS lock and I know my area has clear GPS access (iPad achieves GPS lock immediately).

Thanks very much for the tip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
This shows the FC. Click on the image and you'll zoom in close. The GPS plug is on the upper left side of the FC.

You can also see some of the hand-wired connections (e.g. the motor power wires) are less than perfect.
Jun 12, 2014, 07:41 PM
Registered User
CK, Glad to hear you are making progress. I took me 1-2minutes the first time to get a lock .. and now it is about 30 seconds
Jun 12, 2014, 07:42 PM
Noob
I'm about a week into ownership now and it's flying superbly.

Findings to date :
WLtoys V303 Seeker GPS Kalibrierung (2 min 0 sec)

This video is spot on for re-calibration, it's in German but very clear and precise and most importantly, it works.


The battery below works well, it can be charged from the WL Toys blue charger. It charges faster than the original and has a slightly larger capacity, 2800mah. It is a tight fit but if you remove the labels it helps.

I don't know if it lasts longer as I quit operations on 10 minutes to be safe.

RTH and Head lock work really well provided you have a good satellite lock. RTH usually lands within 1-2 feet of take off.

Thus far I have flown approx 250 meters with no change form stock, stable and reliable. Time to fit my mobius now I trust the machine but I've yet to decide on the best method for that.

Overall: very pleased with the v303 and at $269 from Banggood I can't fault it except for the rather delicate Propellers.

Cheers.
Jun 12, 2014, 08:39 PM
Registered User
QuadFlyer01's Avatar

Intermittent Power Loss Problem Solved


I discovered what has been causing the unpredictable power failures with my V303. I suspect that this may be responsible for the failures that other folks are having as well.
For me, the problem is with the Power Board. Specifically, there were broken solder connections on 2 of the 3 pins that supply power to the FC. This is the group of pins that were apparently bent forward at the factory and then contained with a large dab of white silicone (see attached pics).
Unfortunately, while diagnosing this specific issue,the quad lost power from an elevation of about 20 feet, dropped to the ground and broke the shell and one of the legs
If anyone wants to test theirs, I suggest the following:
Remove the props
Remove the top shell
Power up the quad
Use the eraser end of a pencil and gently apply pressure in all directions to the 3 pins. If you have this same problem, if shouldn't take long to show itself while you gently push on the pins. In my case, when I barely touched one of the pins, the FC would immediately reboot. Therefore, I determined that the vibration present from normal operation was causing the pins to move slightly which woud then reboot the FC. When the FC reboots while in flight, the result is an immediate crash.
It was a real pain to remove the silicone that was covering the pins. However, now that I have that done, I am ready to apply some additional solder. Hopefully I will get a good connection.
Jun 12, 2014, 09:35 PM
Close to CAMPX Ians Old School
Way to many problems surfacing on these 303's , theyre fun as heck when they are working but having had the sudden crash myself im ready to send the PAYPAL Posse out.

Been checking for bad connections but haven't found any........yet
The one I got didn't have the silicone goop on it, but if you look at the Gallery of pics in this thread the first picture of the FC you can see the same thing your pic shows but with clear goop and the bent pins
Houston we have a problem , WLToys new about this and band aid'd it with the goop
This is not good
Was this a May 17th batch order ?

Im gonna sleep on this before the next step, one week today it arrived and such a roller coaster

Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadFlyer01
I discovered what has been causing the unpredictable power failures with my V303. I suspect that this may be responsible for the failures that other folks are having as well.
For me, the problem is with the Power Board. Specifically, there were broken solder connections on 2 of the 3 pins that supply power to the FC. This is the group of pins that were apparently bent forward at the factory and then contained with a large dab of white silicone (see attached pics).
Unfortunately, while diagnosing this specific issue,the quad lost power from an elevation of about 20 feet, dropped to the ground and broke the shell and one of the legs
If anyone wants to test theirs, I suggest the following:
Remove the props
Remove the top shell
Power up the quad
Use the eraser end of a pencil and gently apply pressure in all directions to the 3 pins. If you have this same problem, if shouldn't take long to show itself while you gently push on the pins. In my case, when I barely touched one of the pins, the FC would immediately reboot. Therefore, I determined that the vibration present from normal operation was causing the pins to move slightly which woud then reboot the FC. When the FC reboots while in flight, the result is an immediate crash.
It was a real pain to remove the silicone that was covering the pins. However, now that I have that done, I am ready to apply some additional solder. Hopefully I will get a good connection.
Jun 12, 2014, 09:45 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by QuadFlyer01
I discovered what has been causing the unpredictable power failures with my V303. I suspect that this may be responsible for the failures that other folks are having as well.
For me, the problem is with the Power Board. Specifically, there were broken solder connections on 2 of the 3 pins that supply power to the FC. This is the group of pins that were apparently bent forward at the factory and then contained with a large dab of white silicone (see attached pics).
...
It was a real pain to remove the silicone that was covering the pins. However, now that I have that done, I am ready to apply some additional solder. Hopefully I will get a good connection.
This looks like a very poor design and/or fabrication. Why did they not use a proper plug with a shell to keep those three wires separated first of all... the red and black wires are VERY close to shorting out! And why are the pins bent... there is no need for that unless they made the wires too short and decided to bend the pins instead?

Good sleuthing to find this problem, and good luck with getting a good soldered connection.

<EDIT> Looking at this early picture (click on the picture to zoom in), there IS a proper plug shell on that end of the wiring on that one! And the wires are plenty long enough to plug in without the circuit board pins bent over. Do those pins extend THROUGH the circuit board for some other connection on the underside? I don't see why they need the pins and plug on that end anyway... solder the wires directly to the circuit board for a more secure connection if the pins aren't connected to anything on the other side..
<EDIT>
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 12, 2014 at 10:06 PM.
Jun 12, 2014, 09:58 PM
Registered User
QuadFlyer01's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank
This looks like a very poor design and/or fabrication. Why did they not use a proper plug with a shell to keep those three wires separated first of all. And why are the pins bent... there is no need for that unless they made the wires too short and decided to bend the pins instead?

Good sleuthing to find this problem, and good luck with getting a good soldered connection.
Tom, there actually is a shell for the 3 wires. I removed it during my testing because I needed to be able to test each pin/wire seperately from the others. Initially, I wasn't sure if the bad connection was on the female side or the male side.

I really have no idea why they decided to bend the pins. The FC power wire is more than long enough so I don't think this was an issue. It could have been done simply to help hold the pins in the circuit board while someone soldered them in place? Or, it could be that they were bent after the soldering in order to get them closer to the circuit board, which would then allow the silicon to cover the entire pin set. I suspect the latter because I believe the bending is what probably snapped the original solder connections in the first place...It's really just hard to tell what the thinking was on this.


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