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Mar 31, 2004, 01:13 PM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
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Buiding my Lazy Bee / Gyro Bee


I am currently trying to build a Clancy Lazy Bee Special kit, with the 50" Aileron wing, and with the Autogyro of Arizona Conversion kit. So far, thing have gone well, and I hope I can finish and fly prior to the Maryland Spring Sizzle on Memorial Day weekend. This is my first Lazy Bee, but having seen the way they fly over the past few years, this is going to be a great project to complete.

My power system is going to be a Magnetic Mayhem, turning a APC 14x10 prop through a 3.3:1 Planetary gearbox, powered by a 8 cell 1900 SCR battery to start. This will provide plenty of thrust for the fixed wing plane, but also enough for when turning the Autogyro.
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Mar 31, 2004, 01:15 PM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP

Tail Feathers


Here are the tail-feathers. It has been a while since I used laminated sections, but this turned out really well. Lots of elevator area to help control the attitude and speed with the autogyro rotor......
Mar 31, 2004, 01:17 PM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP

Wing


The wing is all framed up and ready for sanding to shape. I'll mount the aileron hardware after cutting away the ailerons. I am still debating to use the bellcrank system with one HS-81 servo, or use 2 HS-55's mounted out near the control surface.
Mar 31, 2004, 01:21 PM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP

Rotor and Pylon


The autogyro conversion will allow me to fly the Lazy Bee with the wing, then switch at the field to the autogyro just by removing the wing and attaching this pylon. A single servo will control the tilt to the right and left of the rotor, with a pushrod on each side of the pylon to balance the load on the servo arms.

Each rotor blade is airfoil shaped balsa, with a music wire leading edge and a slight reflex sanded into the TE. Rotor diameter is 48" alltogether, mounted on a modified Master Airscrew Gearbox.
Mar 31, 2004, 01:23 PM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP
Here are the blades, shown folded for the time being. The tips of each blade are marked with black stripes to aid in tracking adjustment when in autorotation.
Mar 31, 2004, 01:26 PM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP

Fuselage is underway


The fuselage is finally underway. I am building it slightly different, removing some of the circular windows and using 1/8" square balsa sticks instead. Overall, there will only be some changes to the nose to accept the power system shown above, and some strengthening of the Axle box to support the larger landing gear.

Hopefully through the weekend I'll be able to complete the majority of the fuselage framing. Only 8 weeks to go till the Spring Sizzle,.... hopefully I can get her all finished and ready by then!
Mar 31, 2004, 05:00 PM
Visitor from Reality
Rob - get back to that bench and build! Bringing this Bee to the Sizzle will guarantee you space in my QEFI column, even if you don't bring the whirligig wing replacement bits

Idle thought - hope you are planning on a longer UC. With the Lazy Bee straight wire gear, even an 11" prop tends to turn green around the ends after a grass take off, or turn into a 10" prop on tarmac (the Sizzle has both ).

Maybe I need to get off my duff and finish my 40" BasicBee - 10 CP1700, AXI 2820/10 - for the Sizzle ... I've always fancied the GyroBee, but Arizona seem to have quit making kits and gone to some kind of BARF rig for this model

Good luck with your project. Now get off the Zone and finish her up

D
Apr 01, 2004, 07:44 AM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP
Yea, I have to get moving. Last night I finished on side of the fuselage, from the axle box back to the rear. I will have a new undercarrage, because you need the higher nose to help set the rotor angle, as well as clearance for the large prop.

I'll post some more photos early next week, hopefully after I finish the fuselage framing this weekend??
Apr 01, 2004, 04:54 PM
Visitor from Reality
Have been seriously tidying up the Balsa Dust Factory - and the shelving re-arrangement caused the Bee bits to bubble to the top!

Seems I had delusions of mounting the pack up in the fuselage top - sounds better from a vertical balance point of view, but other bits get in each other's way. Not sure which I'll go for, the high mounted pack will need longer wires off the ESC.

In the meantime, here's the front end of a seriously powered E-Bee - an AXI 2820/10 that will feed off 8 cells (being light-hearted here ) or 10 x CP1700 (unless a suitably 40A capable set of flatties from Lee Po Batt Ree arrives mysteriously in the mail )

But how's about that battery hatch?

Unearthed while "cleaning up", it's from the SR Batteries "SR Night Fly 95", when it was on a long winged Lazy that I took to KRC, strapped on some litesticks and went nightflying for my first (and only) time!

IIRC, that was the last KRC held on the Buc-Lehigh Club's grass field, before the event moved to the far more palatial gig on Queen City Airport's spare tarmac runway.

I think I'll fit this hatch to my new Lazy Bee, for a little continuity - the laminated outlines came off the same jig too.
Apr 01, 2004, 07:27 PM
De-Brushed user
Do you think the 2820 is a good choice for the regular Bee? Ive built one (with floats!) for a friend, and i have a homeless 2820/10 sitting here, and a pack of Irate 2200 (i could get another). The Bee is never going to get flown, and isnt too far along to convert, so i could get it for free or real cheap, if this setup would be successfull. It just seems somewhat sadistic for the little Bee
Jonathan
Apr 01, 2004, 11:25 PM
Visitor from Reality
Well, it's like this. The Bee was lolligagging around the shop collecting dust.

The 2820/10 was unemployed - an ungrateful old codger of an Aveox 1409/3Y had stolen the AXI's gig in the front of my "Basical-E"

And I found that mount goofing off in a drawer making a move on a packet of servo mounts, I suspect.

Figuring that (A) Bees can do surprising things if you try and (B) I gotta throttle stick, ain't I? It was inevitable that the three got together.

Sure it doesn't need 350W. I used to float-fly a long wing lazy Bee on six or seven jugs, a geared green ferrite and a 10 x 8 wood prop. Probably made some watts, but I suspect not many

So, yours wouldn't be on the water too long with a 2820 . I've got to keep assembling pieces of wood - they're starting to look like a Gee Bee, so it's getting exciting now - but I will tinker along with the Bee as I really need one. She's not getting a fancy cowl, so if it proves unmanageable I can pull it off and bolt something sensible on instead.

Andy Clancy once sent me a bunch of shots from the North CA Bee Meet - how's about Bee Specials running tuned pipe 20 glow engines? Ain't talking OS 20 LA either! So I think it'll stay together - will fly her on CP1700 first off, about the same weight as the 8 x SCRC1700 the last EBee flew on.

Keep you posted, but don't hold your breath. That Gee Bee has me in its spell ...

D
Apr 02, 2004, 07:39 AM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP

KRC,...


I used to belong to the Buc-Le Club, as my parents place is only 1 mile from there. I flew in all the KRC events at Buc-Le, and then at the Queen City airport,.... I wonder if we ever bumped into one another previously,.... It's a small world.

Last night I framed the Left side out with the balsa sticks, have to do the solid sections and window portals yet, and then we are ready to frame them up together this weekend. I heard somewhere that putting the battery higher helped the LB roll better and fly inverted longer, since the wieght wasn't down low on the vertical CG level. I am planning to have a cooling hole inlet in the front of the cowl, under the motor, which will double as the battery access. I'll slide it in from the front and secure with velcro I think. Still have to work that out sometime soon.
Apr 02, 2004, 10:12 AM
Visitor from Reality
Rob - only went to the one KRC at that field, Andy C picked me up passing DC and we stayed in what had to be the last hotel room for miles around. He had a pair of Big Bees - one with an AF40 on a MAT beltdrive and four seven cell packs, three for the motor, one for the lighting system! The other had three of the Lazy Bee Master Airscrew units on three seven packs! He took a five motor C*x BARFoamBee.

I had a long wing Lazy and a tri-motor shortwing Lazy. Dick Miller got three motors onto a C*x foamy, and someone else there had a twin! Lot of motors, not that many Bees!

By the last Queen City, I was flying a 60" scale Longster Wimpy and a 20 cell Four Star 40 - that latter even impressed Dave Grife!

Not sure if I made any real progress though ?

Have seen the nose battery access mentioned, but not actually done before. The side door - described at:

http://lazybee.welcomes-you.com/

is the usual approach, putting the pack on the top cabin rails and using the wing as a hatch comes second. I've heard of the higher pack idea and it sounds sound, if that makes sense. I really should try it out.

Have also heard of a Bee with the pack Velcro'd to the wing underside!

Don't reckon too much on flying inverted The Bee has a real attitude problem about that attitude. I spent three years trying to get a glow Bee to fly around inverted, with little luck. Only tried a couple of times with my E-Bee, but go for it!

D
Apr 03, 2004, 08:19 AM
Registered User
The only times I got mine inverted was by accident. It seems like you don't want to touch any control when it is inverted. I have had no luck with outside loops either.
Apr 07, 2004, 11:46 AM
Scale Builder, RCAPA #29
Rob Schaffer's Avatar
Thread OP

Construction Continues


I now have both sides framed up and joined together. I can now begin the modified axle box installation and the nose assembly. Won't be long now....


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