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Apr 26, 2014, 03:13 PM
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Build Log

Team Losi JRX-2, Rebuilding the very first Team Losi RC 2WD Buggy.


An odd little side step from my usual "vintage Kyosho addiction", might be the first that comes to mind when looking at this topic. And it is, but I stumbled upon this car by accident. And it was closely related to my vintage Kyosho projects. When I purchased the "Corally Mid" (see this topic: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2140457 ) it came with the wrong shocks, and after some investigation, it turned out to be Losi JRX-2 shocks. I contacted the seller, and found out the Kyosho shocks had been mounted on a JRX-2 the seller also had.

As the seller didn't have time to remove the shocks (even reply to mail took days sometimes) we agreed he would send the complete car for about the same money I would normally have to pay for just the shocks.

And this is what I got:












The car is pretty dusty, and the turnbuckles are rusty. Front wheels are clearly not original, and the rear rims have cracks where the drive pin fits. The rear suspension has been updated to JRX-Pro spec, with regular A-arms, instead of the typical trailing links system of the JRX-2. But it seems most of the original suspension parts are still there, so I could opt for bringing it back to the way it was when Gil Losi Jr. introduced it to the RC world, as their first 2WD competition buggy.

But the first hurdle is getting the right tools, as this car seems to use inch size hex screws. The manual just states that all tools needed to build the car are included in the kit, but these were no longer with the car, so that wasn't very helpful. Maybe someone with experience with these cars can tell me what tools for drivers I need to have handy, besides the obvious Philips driver, to be able to work on this car?



Update 1 may 2014:


Well, I just ordered a set of inch size hex drivers, and turned out 3 out of the 4 included in the set, were what is needed to wrench on this car. First, a few pics without the body on:








Dusty, and rusty, time to start taking things apart:




I still need to think of a way to get those turnbuckles ok again. I heard that cola is a good rust dissolver, but is this really true? Meanwhile, I checked the transmission. I doubt the way the spur is mounted is really stock...






It has a lot of play, as you can see on the last pic. The manual is not very clear about mounting the spur, so this requires some research. After cleaning up the motor mount plate, at least things were looking a little better:




Luckily the transmission feels very smooth, no grittyness, binding, just very light, and very little play between the spur axle and the diff outdrives. No way I can better that, so I will leave the gear casing unopened for now.

Next up I cleaned the chassis plate. I'm amazed how rigid that stuff is, very fine material. Apart from the usual scrapes at the bottom, and some scuff marks (even the steering servo left it's outline visible!) it turns out pretty clean, and a solid base for rebuilding the car:




More will follow later this day, but I need to upload those pics to my laptop first, and resize.


Update 23 may 2014

A little later than initially intended, but here's some progress. First I cleaned up the steering rack so it looked much better, and is also working smooth again now:




The front suspension mount was also cleaned up, and looks pretty nice still:




Next up was cleaning the chassis plate, and the pivots on which the bell cranks turn. The outline that the servo "etched" into the chassis plate, can't be cleaned off, so it will remain as a reminder of when this car was run:






After this, we take a big step, the later era H-arms, that have been installed to get the car closer to JRX Pro spec, are now removed, and the original 5-link suspension parts installed back again:








As you can see the rear shock is not attached to the link yet, as this requires special screws, that were no longer present with the car when I got it.


While looking to get the missing hardware, the repro body was also waiting for trimming. It's a very nice repro, and it was pretty easy to get it to fit. I've drilled the mounting holes, it just needs a bit of excess material removed at the bottom of the side-skirts, and a little sanding the edges smooth:





Update 10 june 2014:


After a little side step, cutting and painting the repro body, it's time to continue with the chassis. I thought the screws that are needed to secure the bottom ends of the shocks to the trailing link arms, were missing. But as I was looking over the box with the extra parts that came with the car, I noticed some screws that looked like the ones I was looking for. I guess I overlooked these as I was expecting those screws to be beefier. Anyway, with these screws now present, I could proceed with the rear suspension. The gear cover is a repro.






And here's the front, with battery holder and antenna mount:






Plus a total shot to round it off for now:





Update 18 june 2014:


As hinted at further in this topic, I found some wheels, both white and orange. Wheels are in decent shape, the orange fronts even look like new, and also the tires are nice:








Before fitting the wheels to the body, here's a pic of the chassis with all shock mounting nuts installed, and the ESC removed. I didn't like the look of the Acoms ESC installed on the rear shock tower, and apart from that, a Novak ESC from that era would look better.




And here is how it looks with the wheels installed:






The photos don't really show it, but there was some color difference between the front and rear wheels I received, so eventually I used the rear wheels that came with the car, as these still have deeper colour than the ones I just received. So, now it was time to combine body and chassis:












I did paint a repro wing as well, but I don't seen how I can remove the clamps from the original wing without tearing it apart, and I don't want to do that...

So here is how it looks with the old wing:





Last edited by SoloProFan; Jul 01, 2014 at 02:19 PM.
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Apr 26, 2014, 03:13 PM
Fan of just about anything RC
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Bodywork and detailing:


Update 1 june 2014:


As today was a good dat for painting, as there was little wind outside, I prepared the trimmed body for the paintjob, and started on the darkest color, red. I had only a partially used spraycan, and this didn't last me enough to finish. So here's the result for now:








Now I need to order some new paint, and hopefully it will be the same shade, and not noticably darker or lighter...



Update 8 june 2014

Well, as mentioned later in this thread, the new can of red paint was spot on with the already applied color, so no issues there. So here are some pics of the result, after slightly retouching some edges of the windows:








I'm happy with the results so far, so next, mask again, and apply the white paint.



Update 9 june 2014:


So, the white paint is on. It took a few layers to get good coverage. All went well, except that on one part the red paint was so fresh, it started to bleed a little into the white. I brushed the white off on that spot, waited for the area to dry, then used very thin and light strokes of the brush to build a new layer of paint. Let it dry again, another thin, lightly applied layer, and so on. This prevented any more bleeding, and a sharp color seperation was maintained. As pictures speak louder than words, here are some:











Update 1 july 2014


Time for the finishing touch. First step was adding some decals. As I wasn't going for full boxart livery, I looked at various pics of other peoples' JRX2, and combined some into this car. A few decals were lost in the process, as they didn't stay intact when trying to move these a little. But luckily most decals were present in twofold or more, so I had some spares, and the body started to look nice.

But there was still one "hurdle" to take, somehow I couldn't get the wing mount buttons parted, even when I unlocked them by turning 90 degrees. I was about to order a couple of new ones, when I suddenly realized I had only be pulling straight, instead of on one side. And finally the wing buttons came loose...

After drilling the holes in the new repro wing, the buttons needed to be mounted to the new wing, This was almost harder then removal, I had to remove a little material from the top of the part that goes into the other wing buttom half, to make snapping these back together easier. But the results are worth it, I think:





















Hope you like it. One thing remains, getting a smaller spur, as the current one is jammed against the repro gear cover, so the car isn't even a roller, as the rear wheels are jammed now.
Last edited by SoloProFan; Nov 09, 2014 at 11:09 AM.
Apr 26, 2014, 03:13 PM
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(as precaution, also reserved for updates)
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Apr 26, 2014, 06:12 PM
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I love these threads. I ought to get mine all cleaned up and restored. I'll post a pic of mine later here. Mine is a PRO-SE, I think.
Apr 27, 2014, 01:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72
I love these threads. I ought to get mine all cleaned up and restored. I'll post a pic of mine later here. Mine is a PRO-SE, I think.
Thanks. Apart from that I like to freshen up these "oldies", I also hope that others who have one collecting dust or rust on the attic, etc, are getting pulled out and given a new life.
Latest blog entry: For the love of the hobby!
Apr 28, 2014, 10:28 AM
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wparsons's Avatar
Nice find! Hope you can get it cleaned up and built like stock!
Apr 28, 2014, 11:19 AM
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Thanks. I'll try to make you proud. I've ordered a set of popular inch hex drivers, I hope that will suffice. I've heard that cola is a good way to remove rust, if that is correct, I can clean up the turnbuckles in it.

Also need to decide if I will get new/not broken stock wheels, or convert to hex.
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Apr 28, 2014, 05:26 PM
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fastmax's Avatar
I can't recall exactly what size wrenches the car takes. Been so long since I've had one, but a common size SAE set should cover what you need. If you can find some a new set of stock wheels would be awesome!
May 01, 2014, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastmax
I can't recall exactly what size wrenches the car takes. Been so long since I've had one, but a common size SAE set should cover what you need. If you can find some a new set of stock wheels would be awesome!
I ordered a set of 4 inch size wrenches, and 3 of those are all I need. So update has been added to the first posting.
Latest blog entry: For the love of the hobby!
May 01, 2014, 03:19 PM
addictedtoplanes's Avatar
Would this be suitable for brushless conversion? I have a partially built JR2 sitting in my basement, and I would like to get it running.
May 01, 2014, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addictedtoplanes
Would this be suitable for brushless conversion? I have a partially built JR2 sitting in my basement, and I would like to get it running.
It looks pretty sturdy so far from what I've seen. But it seems the car doesn't come with a slipper clutch, at least mine didn't, and the plastic joints in the axles to the wheels might not hold up. If you do go brushless, a mild setup would be best probably, and maybe also lower the punch setting, so the motor spins up more gently.
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May 05, 2014, 01:17 PM
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Ahh memories. This was my first "hobby" car. Wish I still had it.
May 11, 2014, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geekybiker
Ahh memories. This was my first "hobby" car. Wish I still had it.
Though I have no memories of this car, as this is my first, I must say I like it's sturdyness and the way things look like it's a simple design, yet well thought out.

I made some progress with the trailing link suspension rebuild, but run into some trouble getting replacement parts for the shocks. I found a nice lot of shocks, with just the part I need, but the seller won't ship outside the USA...
Latest blog entry: For the love of the hobby!
May 20, 2014, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloProFan
It looks pretty sturdy so far from what I've seen. But it seems the car doesn't come with a slipper clutch, at least mine didn't, and the plastic joints in the axles to the wheels might not hold up. If you do go brushless, a mild setup would be best probably, and maybe also lower the punch setting, so the motor spins up more gently.
I just built my jrx2 for vintage racing.,...although mine has a 5 link...I installed a slipper in mine...works like a charm
May 20, 2014, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloProFan
Though I have no memories of this car, as this is my first, I must say I like it's sturdyness and the way things look like it's a simple design, yet well thought out.

I made some progress with the trailing link suspension rebuild, but run into some trouble getting replacement parts for the shocks. I found a nice lot of shocks, with just the part I need, but the seller won't ship outside the USA...
I can gab them for you probably and get them shipped to you...btw i have a TON of extra jrx2 parts...i bought a huge parts lot..and that is an h arm rear car...the original is a 5 link...i have a very early unstamped motor plate car from the first run made
Last edited by zuki250; May 20, 2014 at 11:37 AM.


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