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Sep 04, 2014, 08:39 AM
Curmudgeon in training!
flyerinokc's Avatar
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Sep 13, 2014, 07:25 PM
Balsadustus Producerus
A few things...

I assembled the Park Fliers Plastics wheel pants last week, and it looks like they are just the ticket. The order from SIG Manufacturing arrived yesterday, and I now have two yards of Koverall as a backup to the silk. I've ordered more 8mm silk from Dharma, so when the Certified-brand tautening butyrate dope arrives, I'll be ready. Naturally, the butyrate is back-ordered and won't be here until next week. Meantime, I've been covering the fuselage and ailerons with the 5mm silk and it's been working well. Again, the alternate plan is if the silk on the wing sags for the second time, using the Certified brand I'll go Koverall with nitrate and butyrate.

Along with the Koverall, a quart of castor oil for doctoring up glow fuel as needed and the 5/32 axle Wheel Pant Mounts are here, too.

Finally, for a bit of selfishness, this is my 1,000 post and I wanted it to be on this project
Sep 14, 2014, 06:16 AM
Mike Denest's Avatar
Mine was covered with silkspan on all of the solid areas and Ceconite 102 on the wing. Plowed it at the Spirit of Selinsgrove reunion when the rubber bands gave up in the third loop.
Oct 06, 2014, 11:12 PM
Balsadustus Producerus
Finally got the time for removing wrinkled silk. I tried re-coating the wing with tautening butyrate right from the can, not thinned out at all, which should have made the silk so tight it would sound like a drum, but no change. Only thing left I know of is removing the loose silk, prepping the wing again and covering with something different. I have a can of Fab-Tac fabric cement from Spruce, and will be using that for attaching Sig Koverall to this wing. Since Koverall is a Dacron fabric, essentially I'll end up with a model airplane version of Ceconite, which is a heat-shrink polyester material. I'll do the usual practice of the first coats of non-tautening nitrate, followed by non-tautening butyrate, then some silver to protect the polyester from UV damage, followed with the color butyrate coats. Just like full-size, but without the rib lacing or surface tapes

I want to make a test wing section and see if the 5mm will do the same looseness the 8mm silk did, but that's for later. I bought enough Koverall for this Stik and, if I can't find how to shrink the silk on that test section, I have enough of that Dacron fabric for the next project, the Stormer. I would like finding out why this happened but won't let it slow down these airplanes any more than it already has.

I really wanted silk, but at the 'Stones sang, "you can't always get what you want..."
Oct 09, 2014, 07:38 AM
Registered User
I went with Koverall and Polycrylic sealer. This is my first build in many years. So far so good. Koverall should work good for you.
Oct 09, 2014, 07:41 AM
Curmudgeon in training!
flyerinokc's Avatar
Good looking wing!
Oct 14, 2014, 10:55 PM
Balsadustus Producerus
Finally got round to doing the new fabric. I found the can of Poly-Tak left over from the last full-size project, a Citabria rudder repair. I thought the Poly-Tak would stick better to whatever remains of the first attempt using butyrate dope as the adhesive, than the Fab Tac would, since that is a relative of nitrocellulose, the base for nitrate dope. Looks like only 90 minutes were required to get this far. Wednesday, if all goes well during the day at work, will see the fabric heat-tautened and ready for the first coat of nitrate dope.
Oct 15, 2014, 07:43 AM
Curmudgeon in training!
flyerinokc's Avatar
Dec 03, 2014, 10:57 PM
Balsadustus Producerus
Some progress in spite of my best efforts...

Pictures show the Koverall-ed wing with two brushed coats of non-tautening nitrate clear and four sprayed coats of non-tautening butyrate clear, while the silked balsa parts have two brushed and three sprayed coats, all butyrate. Next will be two-three coats of silver followed with one coat of white, then the overall color. Idea is having this airplane done for the '15 AMA EXPO for display, as it was there last time in kit form. As of today, there are five airplanes inside the hangar at work and seven more outside in the drizzle, so don't know if that will happen. Time and weather continue to interrupt.

In between working on the Stik, I've been building a Vic Smeed 'Chatterbox' for the EXPO, in hopes of displaying it along with the single-channel rudder-only emulator I received from Phil Green at:

a few days ago. Idea is, to show how a modern S/C R/O system works, to go along with the VR/CS 2015 Theme airplane--any rudder-only design. If you visit that site, look around and be surprised. Those British modelers are having a blast with R/O flying. Check out the videos while you're there. I'd like to do a build log with the radio but don't know if it should be in the Vintage forum or the Electronics one. We'll see.

Meanwhile, what was supposed to be the next project, Spreng's Stormer, has taken a back seat for now.


Dec 04, 2014, 04:27 PM
Curmudgeon in training!
flyerinokc's Avatar
That coverall looks great, drum tight!
Dec 05, 2014, 09:23 PM
Build more, websurf less
FlyingW's Avatar

Beautiful covering job. Did you spray the first coat of dope onto the Koverall?

I've used Koverall on a lot of my planes and I really like the scale look of it and it's low cost. My paint of choice is water-based polyurethane. With this paint I can do the job in the basement any time. With dope I can only work outside during the summer months and only on drier days. I seem to be the only one in my family who likes the scent of dope.

Using a foam brush I usually have a problem with the first coat of paint seeping through the fabric and building up inside. I hold paper towels against the wetted fabric to draw out and remove the excess with good results. Subsequent coats go on very easily.

I've always wondered if that first coat would be better if lightly sprayed on.

Below is my Stik wing with the Koverall shrunk and ready for paint.


Last edited by FlyingW; Dec 05, 2014 at 09:28 PM.
Dec 10, 2014, 07:17 PM
Registered User
Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
I have had trouble with the 8 mm silk shrinking, the 5 mm has always worked fine. If you look on their site, they talk about how they both shrink. On a side note, I have been using ciconite lite uncertified. Same weight as koverall, but much cheaper from AS. I have been using tauting dope on it, when you shrink it with the heat, it will only go so far. The dope has not been an issue so far, several of my planes are many years old. Time will tell. The stik is from Laser Works. Little over a year old, sorry but covered with Ultracote.

Dec 10, 2014, 10:27 PM
Balsadustus Producerus
Flying W--
The first two coats of dope on the wing were brushed on, as spraying doesn't always go through the fabric as it should. These first coats need to encapsulate the fabric weave for best adhesion. Conversely, all remaining coats should be sprayed so as to avoid brush marks. This airplane, as with full-size, had the first two brushed coats of non-tautening nitrate, then the rest is sprayed non-tautening butyrate. Reason is, the nitrate sticks much better to the Dacron fabric than butyrate, which can chip off in a few years if it's applied directly to the polyester. Also, non-tautening is used for polyester as the heating process provides enough shrinking tension: adding a tautening dope could well over-tension the fabric and damage the structure, especially as the dope coating ages. My full-size '46 Bellanca 14-13-2 'Cruisair Senior' was doing this when I bought it, necessitating a repair and recover job in a few places. Your wing looks good

ETpilot--is that Polycrylic fuel proof? I've thought about doing that sometime, but haven't yet.

Cherokee Flyer--That's a good-looking Stik. I've thought of using leftover Stits 104 fabric from my Cruisair project, but couldn't find it in the chaos of my garage. I think those two products are the same.

And, flyerinokc, thank you
Dec 13, 2014, 03:20 PM
Build more, websurf less
FlyingW's Avatar
Thanks Balsabird,

Sounds like the extra paint soaking through the fabric is a good thing. Makes sense to have it wetted throughout to ensure more durability.

Interestingly, I can still lightly re-shrink the fabric to tidy it up even after a year or so without chipping off the paint. Good stuff.

Dec 13, 2014, 05:21 PM
Registered User
Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
Not to take over the tread, but here is another oldie with the ceconite lite and dope.


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