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Apr 18, 2014, 08:15 PM
Balsadustus Producerus
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Build Log

Das Ugly Stik


I ran the Vintage Radio Control Society display booth at AMA's EXPO January last. Since the VR/CS '2014 Plane of the Year' is Phil Kraft's Ugly Stik, I had my plans-built Stik sitting on a set of plans with a Lazer Works short kit, along with a selection of strip and sheet wood needed to complete the airplane. Idea was, to show how simple this design is to build, along with the completed airplane. After returning home Sunday night, I wondered what to do with that kit.

So here we are, a build log of the Kraft Ugly Stik! If you wish to follow along with me, Lazer Works lists the kit

http://lazer-works.com/rcm.html

on the third box from the bottom of the RCM list, column on the left. As of this date, the kit lists at $77.05 plus shipping. When I called, they mentioned there usually is a kit or two on the shelf as it is popular. Should they must cut a kit to your order, add about a week. Contact them directly at the above address for more information. Let them know if you are a VR/CS member. Shipping was less than a week if I recall rightly: they are located in Wichita Falls, Texas. A short kit means you only get the parts needing cutting in a certain shape, such as ribs and wing tips. Wood needed to complete the airplane was just over $30 at my local hobby shop, who sells Midwest wood.

Plans are available from

http://www.outerzone.co.uk/index.asp

Type "ugly stick" in the upper left search box and you'll get a selection. This project will use the 'Phil Kraft from Grid Leaks' copy, although the 'Phil Kraft from Jensen' also works. If you haven't visited Outerzone before, it's simple--select your plan, download it and that's it--no logging in, no registration, no fees. Look around while you're there...I'm a kid in a candy store I load the pdf on a flash drive stick and Kinko's prints it out for near $8 plus tax. Oh, yeah, be sure to click only on the little tiny phrase "download page". Don't click on any flashy, colorful, advert-laden "DOWNLOAD" or "DOWNLOAD NOW!" buttons, or you'll get ads galore. Steve has to pay the bills to run the site, somehow.

At the moment, my idea is to silk it and use an old, reliable ENYA .60 III, which I found in the Engine FS/W forum, priced near $80, shipped, a couple years ago. Radio will either be the Airtronics RDS8000 or Hitec Optic 6, both 2.4 systems.

Disclaimers: The respective brands and names of their products belong to those owning the brands/companies, copyrights and all that. However, I will say what products are to be used in this project as I go along, naming them as needed. I'll also say here I am not one for political correctness, having a tendency to speak my mind--it's my Gaelic background getting me in trouble occasionally. If that offends, so be it
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Apr 18, 2014, 08:45 PM
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Here is the kit after leaving the box. As it's laid out, wing ribs are at the top of the building board, fuselage parts just below, then strip ailerons and the vertical stabilizer/rudder. Miscellaneous parts to the right. And the ever-present cranberry juice is lower left. Love that stuff.
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Apr 18, 2014, 08:58 PM
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A word about the plans...

When you see them, you'll see references to stuff you probably have never heard of. Most of that will concern the radio equipment. Not to worry, that will be dealt with when we get to installation. Same with the called-out VECO .45--I have one but will not be using it. I'm going for the Enya as that is what Kraft usually used on this design. My other Stik flies with a K&B Sportster .45 and has adequate power, but this .60 will be better, especially on windy days.

Now, a little Clannad background music from Pandora, refill the cranberry juice and find the glue...
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Apr 18, 2014, 09:17 PM
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This is the original Grid Leaks magazine article. Sorry about the inverted picture--I tried to right it before attaching but my computer wouldn't stand for it. Hard to read. Do any here know how to enlarge that?
Latest blog entry: Single Channel Case
Apr 18, 2014, 09:23 PM
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Here is the vertical stabilizer. Rudder hinges later, of course.
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Apr 18, 2014, 09:42 PM
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Common problem--only half of the horizontal stabilizer is shown. How to build on that? I'm using parchment paper for the first time as a plans protector. I found you can draw in it with a soft pencil, so I traced the right half onto the parchment, then flipped it over, carefully aligning the centerline and leading/trailing edges for straightness. Since the aft end of the fuselage showed through the parchment, confusing the left half of the stab, I taped a 8x11 printer paper under it, then taped the parchment. Now, the right side gets the parchment protector and it's glue time.
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Apr 18, 2014, 09:50 PM
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To ensure accuracy, I placed the elevator at the stab's trailing edge, seeing if the traced part, the left side of the stab, has the correct span. It does. No need to encourage inaccuracies. They'll show up on their own, eventually
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Apr 18, 2014, 10:33 PM
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Horizontal stabilizer framed up, ready for 1/16 sheeting, but that will be tomorrow.
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Apr 19, 2014, 03:42 AM
Balsa breaks better
Thermaler's Avatar
I needed something to do while waiting for glue to set.

Joe
Apr 19, 2014, 06:34 AM
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Subscribed!!...Gene
Apr 19, 2014, 09:05 AM
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Thermaler--Thank you muchly. Vastly improved. As Phil said, there is no real need for a step-by-step instruction manual, but I'll add information as it comes along. He said start with the fuselage but on the first one I started with the tail parts, so they would be available for fuselage assembly, resulting in the "one step assembly" he mentions.

Onward!
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Apr 19, 2014, 11:12 AM
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Horizontal stabilizer, or tailplane to those East of the Pond.

Here's what I did. First, cut the 1/16 skins to length, leaving a little extra at each end. Match the edges as close as you can, changing them around until the center joint looks good. Using masking tape, join the sheet wood to make a hinge. I usually use plain masking tape, but it didn't show up well, so I overlaid it with blue tape. Really doesn't need two layers.

Open the hinged sheets, add your favorite glue and close them. I used medium CA for this and rubbed the joint on top of the white Melamine-coated shelf board as it cured, to keep it flat and straight. Any missed areas can be fixed with thin CA. Rub the glue joint down with your hands until the CA goes off. Don't stop moving your hands or you'll really become one with the airplane. That' make it really tailheavy. This helps maintain eveness, if that's a word, between the two sheets, so you don't have to sand the finished product so much. I've also been known to sand that joint before skinning the framework it's going to be used on. Less work later when preparing for the finish.

When adding the first skin, I use medium CA. Reason is, most brands of medium CA don't go off immediately, and open time, or the amount of time between you have applied the glue and it goes off, is rather long. This gives you enough time to align and hold the parts together until dry. Notice how I used masking tape as a hinge again, aligning the trailing edges with it. Again, open the hinge, add glue and close it up. After that, I'll look and make sure everything is bonded as it should be. If not, fixit with thin CA. Other skin is same as the first.

After trimming off excess wood, check both sides for good bondlines and fix with thin CA as required. Round off the leading edge and both tips with a sanding block. Leave the trailing edge square. Done
Last edited by Balsabird; Apr 20, 2014 at 10:18 AM.
Apr 19, 2014, 11:15 AM
Balsadustus Producerus
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Forgot to mention, reason for no laser cut stab parts, is they are all straight-edged. Gives you a taste of cutting and gluing.

Also forgot--I looked around for the 3/16 by 3/4 stripwood for the tail. No one had it, so I bought some 3/16 sheet and attacked it with my trusty Master Airscrew wood stripper tool. Yes, same as the propeller-making company. I have a few and usually leave them set for the more common widths I need, but they are easily adjustable and very reasonably priced, considering what stripwood costs, comparatively. Since the number 11 blade can be a little goosey at the tip, I'll shorten it up as needed so it will still work as it should but the tip wandering around essentially stops, giving you a better, more accurate cut. Don't toss the stripwood leftovers--they are needed later.

Master Airscrew also make a nice wood plane. Will get used a fair amount on this project.
Last edited by Balsabird; Apr 20, 2014 at 11:06 AM.
Apr 19, 2014, 05:53 PM
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I love stik!
Apr 19, 2014, 10:25 PM
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Fuselage is next. Left to right, as always, shows fuselage sides, joined, sanded smooth. Note how the horizontal is pinned to plans, then bottom parts added, glued to stab leading edge, then forward fuselage bottom added. Right side installed but not glued, then left side. Starting with aft former, even with wing trailing edge, formers are glued to sides first, then sides are glued to bottom, pressing down until dry. Former at wing leading edge is not yet glued.

First of many edits, as I was quite tired last night. Notice the last two formers toward the tail. I've cut out the center, leaving about 3/8 to 1/2 width remaining. Allows for rudder and elevator pushrods passing through. Best doing this before gluing into place but I don't always think of these things. I did that with my Dremel Moto Tool and a coarse 1/2" diameter sanding drum.

Also, if you look closely, you'll see the former in the middle of the wing cutout, far side from you, bottom left picture, doesn't quite make it to the right fuselage side. There is a small gap. I didn't notice I'd mislocated that former offcenter to the fuselage centerline, until too late. A sliver of balsa, 1/16x1/4 was cut, fitted and glued.

Also, Lazer Works was nice enough to laser-scribe a center-line and former locations on the fuselage bottom skins. Formers are installed behind those lines, except the former at the wing leading edge. Glue that one forward of that line. I'll make do with mine as it is now. Rats!
Last edited by Balsabird; Apr 20, 2014 at 11:12 AM.


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