Flyzone Hadron- How far? How Fast? - RC Groups
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Apr 14, 2014, 09:25 PM
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Flyzone Hadron- How far? How Fast?


Welcome to the Hadron “Work Bench” thread. Post here your tips, tricks, hop ups, mods or custom built Hadrons. Whether it’s a vector less, Stryker smoking speed demon or a Hadron Lite, we want to see it! I’m sure it won’t be long before someone builds a Hadron from a bare fuselage with speed in mind. I have just finished building my vector/rudder less Hadron. As I look at what I’ve started I can’t help but wonder. How far could I take it? How fast could it fly? I will get this thread going with my build.
Last edited by LinemanLU47; Apr 15, 2014 at 07:04 PM.
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Apr 14, 2014, 09:29 PM
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I will start with the most involved project I did, the motor mount.

1. Removed all the thrust vectoring parts
2. Using a Dremel cutter I trimmed down the fuselage and turtle deck
3. Cut out foam from an old Stryker Fuse to fill the servo pockets and wire channel.
4. Machined down with dremel cutter the entire engine compartment ¼” being careful to keep the original mount angle.
5. Cut a channel across the compartment and epoxied in a 3/8” x 3/8” nylon bar with holes that correspond to the L style mount I picked for this build.
6. Cut 2 strips of 1” carbon fiber lamination. Bored holes in them to correspond with the 4 motor mount anchors. The two forward mount anchors are the stock vectoring thrust mounts.
7. Laminated the engine compartment.
8. Mounted the 16x19mm L style motor mount with 4 screws
9. Dove tailed the bottom rear of the fuselage to help with airflow to the prop. I used a belt sander!

This set up will mount any length 28mm inrunner motor inside the motor compartment. It can also mount a 16x19mm outrunner off the rear of the mount as well as a 25x25mm outrunner with a simple adapter plate. My plan is to stick with a 28mm innrunner. I’m looking at a HET Typhoon 2W-30 or a Mega Motor. For now I have installed a Medusa V2 2200KV.
Last edited by LinemanLU47; Apr 14, 2014 at 11:24 PM.
Apr 14, 2014, 09:31 PM
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Next came the turtle deck, rudder and vertical stabilizer.

1. Removed the rudder servo, push rod and horn.
2. With a few dabs of epoxy I immobilized the rudder control surface on the vertical stab.
3. Filled the hinge area and control horn hole of the vertical stab with foam patching compound
4. Cut off the forward portion of the vertical stab and reshaped with a dremel cutter so it would fit the turtle deck.
5. Sanded and painted.
6. The turtle deck was easy. Drilled 2 new holes to correspond with the relocated vertical stab, and notched the rear of the channel that holds the vertical stab. for motor clearance.
7. I filled the rudder push rod slot. Sanded and painted.


The finished Vertical stab sits about 2 inches forward of the original location.
Last edited by LinemanLU47; Apr 14, 2014 at 09:56 PM.
Apr 14, 2014, 09:33 PM
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Next came the servos, horns and pushrods.

1. I replaced the stock servos with Hitec HS-82 Metal gear servos. The Hitec servo with their shorter wires only weighed 1 gram more that the stock servo. The HS-82MG is a direct fit into the Hadron wing pockets. A little two sided tape and done!
2. For the servo arms I used 1” Dubro heavy duty arms. I cut a slot in the wing pocket and installed the servo arm pointing up to the top of the wing.
3. Cut the existing control horns off flush with the elevon. I did not try to remove the horn. The flat portion of the old horn made a great base for the new horns backing plate.
4. Installed Robarts ¾” ball link control horns. I was careful to not drill through the carbon rod.
5. Re installed the stock pushrods, now on top. I did have to use a longer screw on the clevis to accommodate the wider ball link.
6. Used paper to build a template to cover the servos and wires on the bottom. Transferred the paper template onto a vinyl sheet. Cut them out and stuck them on.

I added the Metal gear servos and screw in control horns for a little added security. I moved everything to the top to protect them. I don’t always fly near a grassy field. When my planes go on desert camping trips they land in all kinds of bad stuff.
Last edited by LinemanLU47; Apr 22, 2014 at 06:23 PM.
Apr 14, 2014, 09:35 PM
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With the stock 40 amp ESC and Medusa motor (for now) installed as well as a Spektrum AR 6200 w/remote these were my weight results.

Total weight removed 7 ¾ oz
Total of parts installed 4 ¾ oz

Weight savings of 3oz or 12 % of the Stock Hadron’s without battery weight

Current weight
Flight ready without battery 22.2oz
Last edited by LinemanLU47; Apr 16, 2014 at 06:47 PM.
Apr 14, 2014, 09:38 PM
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Next came a whole lot of masking and painting!
Apr 15, 2014, 11:32 AM
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Great write up. You're really making me want to buy one of these things. The difficulty of mounting an inrunner on an F27Q really limits how fast you can realistic (and affordably go). The fact that this thing can mount an inrunner internally (thus keeping an reasonable CG) without too much effort is great.

That motor looks like it has miles of clearance. Would a 35mm fit also?
Apr 21, 2014, 01:49 AM
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A 35mm inrunner will not fit in the motor compartment. It could be mounted off the back though. I am going to stick with the 28mm inrunner. There are a lot of good 28mm options pulling around 1500 watts on 6s.
Nov 30, 2015, 04:21 PM
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Dadawada's Avatar
So I just subscribed to this thread but it doesn't seem like any activity for almost a year. Curious how your modded Hadron flew?

I'm modding one right now but don't plan to go as far as you did. Simply looking for a more powerful powerplant and ESC.
Nov 18, 2016, 12:10 PM
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pval3's Avatar
anything new?
Nov 02, 2017, 11:21 PM
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Yeah I would like to here more about this. That is an amazing paint job by the way. Great job!


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