I have to Fess up !

It appears that ALL the FG3's that I have recently shipped contain
some incorrect parts.

In the Pic all the GREEN PARTS need to be changed.

The FEET parts were sized incorrectly and the Slots did not line up.

If you have not finished up your BUILD THEN
I will gladly send you the sheet with the CORRRECT parts.

My excuse for this screw up is a 12 yr old ALIEN PC that went bad and the poor old FG3
had never been backed up. I lost all my design info for it.

So I have recently reverse engineered it from my Cutting files.
But, while I was at that a very recent customer noticed the error and e-mailed me.

I have just completed a 3D study and feel confident in the new parts.

See the attached Pic for comparison to your parts.

Regardless, Please let me know if you want me to ship the replacement parts.
Bob@HoosierCutoutService.com

Here are a couple of new screen caps taken during the 3D study
of the updated design.

The mannequin head:

Get one on Ebay either from China or US. The China ones may require some repair. I have had success visiting local wig shops and buying from them. Don't pay more than $10.

1. I first reset the neck angle to the head so that the head is looking up which will be forward when mounted.

2. I usually make a flat slice from the top of the neck's back, at the hairline, to the top of the forehead.

3. I then slice the face/neck down the centerline. I then use the face profile to trace the profile on 1/4" ply that will become the head support and chin skid. This support is tied into the Flyguy bottom and top plates which are reinforced with ply or carbon tube.

4. Next I glue 1/32 or 1/16 ply protective edging to the top skull and the other mating surface. I trace the outline and cut it 1/2 inch wide. I also imbed two sets of magnets to hold the top of the head on.

5. After all this is done, I hollow out the head and make provisions for tying down the two flight batteries.

6. Build Flyguy with the head and batteries so that you can then locate the servo/esc positions for correct CG.

Thanks Otto.

I recently had a question about the HEAD mounting details.

This and the new parts should clear up any remaining questions.

Bob
Hoosier Cutout Service

Hey, Guys - just ordered V3

Couple questions - I see in V2 where the CG is, 1/2" in front of the shoulder blade notch, but looks like this version is lacking that area - any help on CG placement?

Also - Otto, you wrote that you designed this version with the desire to have yaw control. How is that accomplished? Varying motor speeds?

All the best, dawjr

You will get you part next week, fer sure ! :-)

I bow to Otto for the rest :-)

Bob

Originally Posted by dawjr

Hey, Guys - just ordered V3

Couple questions - I see in V2 where the CG is, 1/2" in front of the shoulder blade notch, but looks like this version is lacking that area - any help on CG placement?

Also - Otto, you wrote that you designed this version with the desire to have yaw control. How is that accomplished? Varying motor speeds?

All the best, dawjr

CG is covered in post #10. Yaw control is accomplished with differential throttle using mixing.

FYI:

I assume that Power is from ONLY ONE of the ESC's, similar to Multi copters.

Therefore, one of the ESC's must have it's RED/MIDDLE/Power wire pulled back
and taped off. The connectors are easily unlocked to enable the pin pull.

If you need more assistance with this just ask.

Originally Posted by Otto Dieffenbach

CG is covered in post #10. Yaw control is accomplished with differential throttle using mixing.

Sorry, Otto - I just found that information after re-reading the thread.

Could you please elaborate just a bit on your instruction,

"Use fixed end point ESCs or have your ESCs setup on a switch so that they never go below zero or they will always be resetting the endpoint."

I get the mixing part, but at a loss on the esc's endpoint issue. I'm going to use the typical "plush" esc.

Also - Thanks, Bob, for the cutout service. V3 arrived quickly and safe and sound. Looking forward to the build in the coming days.

All the best, Don

Originally Posted by dawjr

Sorry, Otto - I just found that information after re-reading the thread.

Could you please elaborate just a bit on your instruction,

"Use fixed end point ESCs or have your ESCs setup on a switch so that they never go below zero or they will always be resetting the endpoint."

I get the mixing part, but at a loss on the esc's endpoint issue. I'm going to use the typical "plush" esc.

Also - Thanks, Bob, for the cutout service. V3 arrived quickly and safe and sound. Looking forward to the build in the coming days.

All the best, Don

I have my transmitter setup so that I can turn the mixing on and off. In the off position the throttle and Aux output track 0 to 100 percent off the throttle. When I turn the switch on I mix both channels with rudder. So with rudder in neutral the throttle range is 25 to 75 %. At full rudder/full throttle, one esc goes to 50 % and the other to 100%. At full rudder/low throttle, one esc is at 0 and the other 50%. You always initiate the system with mixing off and turn it on either right before launch or in the air. BEWARE: when you turn the mixing on, both motors go to 25% with rudder in neutral.

Originally Posted by Otto Dieffenbach

I have my transmitter setup so that I can turn the mixing on and off. In the off position the throttle and Aux output track 0 to 100 percent off the throttle. When I turn the switch on I mix both channels with rudder. So with rudder in neutral the throttle range is 25 to 75 %. At full rudder/full throttle, one esc goes to 50 % and the other to 100%. At full rudder/low throttle, one esc is at 0 and the other 50%. You always initiate the system with mixing off and turn it on either right before launch or in the air. BEWARE: when you turn the mixing on, both motors go to 25% with rudder in neutral.

Got it, thanks for the clarification.

All the best, Don

Otto and Bob, thanks so much for the design, cut outs and online tutorial! You guys made a lot of children very happy during our annual charity air show last week! For our final act, Snoopy (flying his doghouse) was set to fight the dreaded Red Baron in his DR-1 however, Snoopy was sick so SUPERMAN had to save the day! In spite of windy conditions, he flew great!

Superman visits the Rogue Eagles (3 min 43 sec)

Thanks guys!

Originally Posted by cde

Otto and Bob, thanks so much for the design, cut outs and online tutorial! You guys made a lot of children very happy during our annual charity air show last week! For our final act, Snoopy (flying his doghouse) was set to fight the dreaded Red Baron in his DR-1 however, Snoopy was sick so SUPERMAN had to save the day! In spite of windy conditions, he flew great!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=viTOAaaPL1A

Thanks guys!

You're welcome!!! That's a fine flying V3. Glad he saved the day.

Bob has my Depron Snoopy Doghouse in development and it will soon be featured in Model Aviation. I will do an rcgroups build log soon. You might start carving a 14 inch Snoopy out of 1 pound foam now.

Originally Posted by Otto Dieffenbach

You're welcome!!! That's a fine flying V3. Glad he saved the day.

Bob has my Depron Snoopy Doghouse in development and it will soon be featured in Model Aviation. I will do an rcgroups build log soon. You might start carving a 14 inch Snoopy out of 1 pound foam now.

Wonderful news, Otto! Bob, our club would definitely be interested in retiring our older design as our current flying doghouse really needs a "Snoopy Makeover"! Our club purchased 6 fly guys over the past Spring, I'm hopeful they will all be flying in preparation of next years air show!

Thanks again guys!

All these "planes" are awesome, and I plan to build mine soon.

I got the Version 1 plans tiled from the PDF file and started to create my own CNC files to cut all parts.

I live in Spain so any chances to get parts shipped overseas crash with oversized parcels regulations, and considering my parts wonīt need to be shipped anywhere I decided to go "bigger".

My new plans are about a 74" long flying artifact, with modified shoulders/arms for bigger surface, higher strengh to handle extra weight. Iīve now seen dual motor setup from Version 3 and those wider shoulders of my prototype are calling for a dual motor setup too.

Letīs see how this ends.