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Mar 20, 2004, 10:11 AM
Thread OP

What good is Odorless CA glue?

I bought some Oderless CA glue and the only thing that it seems to stick to is my fingers? I always seem to go back to 5 minute Epoxy because I have the best luck!
Last edited by samcrismon; Mar 20, 2004 at 11:58 AM.
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Mar 20, 2004, 01:55 PM
Registered User
JDMstuff's Avatar
Odorless CA takes awhile to cure. If you're in a hurry, use water to kick it off. Regular CA kicker creates a lot of heat and can melt foam if too much is used.
Mar 20, 2004, 07:34 PM
Will work for planes
omega blood's Avatar
Kicker (unless stated otherwise) will eat/melt foam. For foam that or epoxy is the best IF your in a hurry. If not the GWS glue works great but takes a while to cure. for balsa thin to midium CA works good. I find that the ZAP brand of CA's work best for me.
Mar 20, 2004, 08:21 PM
Shortman's Avatar
Don't use kicker! Use an aerosol Accelerator.

Mar 20, 2004, 09:22 PM
Thread OP
I have not worked with balsa yet. I have only built a SS and a EStarter. For both the Epoxy seemed to work best. So balsa is the primary application for CA?
Mar 20, 2004, 09:49 PM
Will work for planes
omega blood's Avatar
Originally posted by samcrismon
I have not worked with balsa yet. I have only built a SS and a EStarter. For both the Epoxy seemed to work best. So balsa is the primary application for CA?
Yes. The only CA you can use on foam is oderless.
Mar 21, 2004, 11:22 AM
Cogito Ergo Sum
ca and kick while magical is painful too. here is a picture of my fingertip skin that will forever be part of my hellcat. lol, man that hurt
Mar 21, 2004, 11:29 AM
Suspended Account
I've been building the depron planes and using oderless CA. Baking Soda is an excellent accellerator/filler. I use it all the time. I've heard of people filling a salt shaker with baking soda and 'sprinkling' it ontop of your ca glue area.
Mar 21, 2004, 05:30 PM
Registered User
JDMstuff's Avatar
You can also use a solution of baking soda and water in a spray bottle. Works just as good and a lot less expensive.
Mar 22, 2004, 01:53 AM
AustinTatious's Avatar
Hey Tmproff and all,

I know Baking Soda is cheap, however it is Also EXTREMELY heavy! Do yourself a favor and buy some Micro Balloons. They work better than Baking soda for accelerating CA and they are also about 1000 times lighter per volume (or more!)

Throught my 15 years of building, i discovered the true secrets of success with CA. I use it for EVERYThing but FIlling. Here is what I do that Works very well.

1. Get Good CA to begin with....

I like Jet and Great Planes THIN. Always THIN! When you buy it, ask the store if they have any that they keep refrigerated. If it has sat on the shelf at room temp too long it will appear a bit brown. Buy the clearest CA you can find.

2. Use it properly.....

Hold the two pieces you are trying to glue together tightly. Squirt a tiny amount on a joint between the pieces and let physics take place. Capilary action will draw the thin glue into the areas where the pieces are touching. When glue stops being drawn into the pieces, stop applying it. You may need to accelerate it in some cases, i like to use a heat gun if i can, but a GREAT way to kick it and add strength is spray Micro balloons on the joint.

3. Score the two surfaces slightly with some sand paper. Makes a HUGE difference.

for foam friendly CA, do the same as above but be REAL careful with kicking, it usually melts foam no matter how you do it, jsut be patient.

Keep a lid on your glue and if your not gonna use it for a long time, put it in the fridge, or jsut throw it out cause it will go bad and work poorly.

Biggest mistakes ive seen people make are Using TOO much, and applying it to each side THEN putting them together. Also people tend to get themselves glued to projects, thats easy to prevent too. Just before you start to build, go ahead and put a drop on your thumb and pointer and "rub it in" Do this several times and get a nice layer built up. Now if you ahve to hold a little too close to a joint, use one of those fingers and you wont loose any skin. If for some reason you do get glued to a project, if possible Rotate it until you twist off. Trying to peel yourself off often results in lost skin.

Dont leave your head above what you are glueing, fumes are very painful to eyes and nose and can hurt you.

BE careful when Bonding very dry balsa, the reaction with the wood alone can cause EXTREME heat, Ive darkened wood before and im waiting for the day i set fire. Im not kidding, this stuff gets HOT HOT HOT.

If you use Ca properly, the subtrate will usually fail before your glue joint does.


Mar 22, 2004, 01:48 PM
Registered User
exempt's Avatar
I still use CA when I can but Elmers "Ultimate glue" is my new favorite, it has pretty much replaced my epoxy, sure it takes longer to set up but if you add water it's pretty fast and you can use it on ANYTHING (including foam)

Mar 22, 2004, 06:10 PM
Polyurethane is my main glue. CA is for tacking parts that cannot be clamped AFTER I apply polyurethane. And guess what kicks off CA very well? Uncured polyurethane! If I make a joint, I apply the urethane to one side, test fit to make sure it transfers to the other side and then run a small fillet all around. It cures from the INSIDE and prevents foam-out. I have the strength of urethane with the speed of CA.
Mar 22, 2004, 07:31 PM
Can I coat a sheet of balsa on the fuse of my plane with CA to strengthen it?

I am building a Talon and every thread I read about it tell me to reinforce it with fiberglass... I don't want to do that as I am terrible with glassing and it adds weight.

Has anyone tried to spread CA over balsa sheet to strengthen and does it work well?
Mar 22, 2004, 07:53 PM
AustinTatious's Avatar
yes it does, use thin CA and a BIG fan.. you wont be able to sand and it will probably look bad though.
Mar 22, 2004, 08:56 PM
Expensive, heavy and ugly. Its adds little since its brittle and has a very low peel strength.

You all know what I am going to recommend....Polyurethane! Yes, it will soak DEEPLY in balsa sheet and lock the fibers to improve axial shear resistance. To apply, don your latex (or equivalent) gloves and disposible smock (or clothes you don't care about) and use a stiff card to spread it as thin as possible. once it soaks in and darkens the wood, carefully wrap the part in Saran wrap as smoothly as possible. Even better is Parafilm if you can find it. Cover ALL wetted areas with film. Use clear tape to secure Saran and overlap Parafilm. Let part sit overnight for at least 14 hours. Remove wrap and let cure for another 2-3 hours before sanding. If you are good, little sanding is required and you get a gloss finish with little foaming.

Its FAR cheaper than CA for this and much lighter.

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