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Jan 14, 2016, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dankar04
I used up last tube of Ambroid glue on UC plane last year. Hobby shop had it till a few years ago. Sig-ment is ok. the Ambroid really ran big time.
I bought tube a few years back just for the old days sake. I have not seen anymore in a long time.
I have a 12 pack box of the larger Ambroid tubes. I have found that the Sigment seems to work better on larger models since it is thicker and stays put when used in large qunatities. I may end up selling the Ambroid.
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Jan 14, 2016, 04:14 PM
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Corsair canopy

Originally Posted by scigs30
The fresh smell of Ambroid in the morning.....I also like using Testors on my old Sterling and Guillows kits since the wood is old and porous.
I have one of those Corsair kits. The parts are ready to be assembled. I don't have the canopy. By chance would you have an extras? Dumb question I know, but I really would like to build the model. Bill
Sep 22, 2016, 12:46 PM
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If anyone is interested, i just got my hands on a gallon of Nitrocellulose cement (Ambroid). I have been looking for it for a few years now and finally found it. It has the well known "sweet" smell. The reason it is such a good wood bonder is because it is a wood derivative. It is also a good bonder to many plastics. Otherwise the main binder which is Nitrocellulose is identical to Ambroid. I have 2oz bottles which I can divi-it-up into. If you are interested, just PM me. I paid $285 (plus hazmat fees and shipping charges) for the gallon and the bottles cost me $1.98ea. I will send it for $11/bottle, including shipping in the lower 48. I also have a wood primer which makes the joints even stronger. Same cost. I will knock off a buck if you want both.
Last edited by Otakar; Mar 12, 2017 at 05:47 AM.
Oct 11, 2016, 09:41 AM
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I started using a primer with my Nitrocellulose glue and get fantastic results. In the pictures you will see the results on these tong depressors. The single is glued with just straight Nitrocellulose cement and the double is glued using a primer which I developed. you can see the difference in the fracture. In the straight, the glue joint broke. In the primed, the wood fractured. I am using the technical title of Nitrocellulose because [email protected] is a trade mark of that cement. I call mine "Ambrulose". because I bought it in bulk from the distributor of aviation cements. The reason I chose that name is because it is a compilation of the color and the technical term. It is only a choice. I call my primer just that, Amrulose Primer.
Oct 11, 2016, 02:03 PM
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Local Hobby shop had several tubes of Ambroid. Stuff was very thin and ran way to easy. Worked ok but have never seen anymore. Sigment works fine or titebond if in no rush. I only bought this stuff for old times sake. Still have some Areo-gloss paint but some went south.
Oct 12, 2016, 12:25 PM
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The stuff I have is aviation approved and is actually quite thick. It is AT LEAST as thick as the OLD Ambroid. It is about like very thick honey. In my opinion, Nitrocellulose cement has the best combination of, weight, strength, flexibility, and drying time for wood construction. I even use it on stock work on my rifles when I build new stocks.
Last edited by Otakar; Oct 12, 2016 at 12:36 PM.
Oct 18, 2016, 06:48 AM
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I did more testing and proof of concept of the primer. Also modified the trying time for the primer to extend it a little so it has more time to soak into more dense wood grain. I have been having very good results. Obviously because the primer now takes longer to dry, the gluing process is a bit longer, but even stronger than before.
Oct 20, 2016, 08:17 PM
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I have also started experimenting with a Poly Carbonate base cement that seams to be working just as well. The only problems, if it indeed are problems, it dries too fast initially. but than sets a bit longer, it is also a bit thinner. It is also a bit more expensive.
Oct 21, 2016, 07:24 AM
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This is how I am packaging it.
Oct 29, 2016, 08:10 PM
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Last Friday, I bought (ordered) the last five Gallons of the cement the suppler had. When we talked on the phone, he jokingly mentioned that "it is a lot of glue to sniff", my reply was that, "buying five gallons of the stuff just demonstrates that I obviously have no more brain cells to kill". If anyone wants my "Amrulose" and "Amrulose Primer" I will run out of bottles before I run out of glue. I now have plenty. I will dilute some for aircraft covering and finishing my gun stocks. I was also thinking of using it for re-finishing some antique furniture I have. What I love about Nitro Cellulose is that it is harder than Polly urethane varnish and that it adheres much better than PU also. This is one reason I like it for finishing gun stocks. You just have to be very careful not to get any modern gun cleaner on it.
Nov 13, 2016, 07:19 PM
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OK I now have it in 4.2oz refill bottles for those that want it in bulk. $21 including shipping in the US.
Last edited by Otakar; Mar 12, 2017 at 05:48 AM.
Nov 14, 2016, 07:51 AM
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Ambroid cement available again under "Amrulose"

Yes guys, as much as you desire. 2oz dispenser bottles and 4.2oz refill bottles.
Last edited by Otakar; Nov 20, 2016 at 07:03 AM.
Dec 04, 2016, 10:37 AM
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Great discussion everyone , I really like glue and nothing about it could ever bore me.
I always am checking for new glues to appear ,I consider it my duty to do so.
And the paticular times we are living in now are like a glue golden age , there are so
many I can't properly test them. However a lot of these new glues fit into a few very
distinct families ,so it isn't that overwhelming.
I would love to spread the news about my recent discoveries, but that will have to wait.
This thread is about Ambroid and I will stick to that for now.
This is what I have deduced. Ambroid proper , is only a fond memory , in my region at least
But there are many more glues that are in the Ambroid family , more than one would think .
Of course Sigment is one and Duco ( which I never liked since childhood) . But what about the others ? How can they be determined to be of the Ambroid clan ?
It's quite simple, I only found out you could thin Ambroid about a year ago , but because of that fact the other Ambroid relatives are revealed. Ambroid can be thinned with Acetone, it
wont work with anything else. This is the case with all of the variants also. Sigment is great at
50/50 or any ratio really . if you squeeze a tablespoon of Sigment into a small container, you need only to dump some acetone in with it. You don't even need to stir it if you aren't in a hurry to use it. What I'm getting at is that since Sigment mixes with acetone so easily , it should be and I have found that it definitely is the same with all of the other types .
Those little testor types test positive of course ,but so do these ones Beacon QuickGrip , Beacon 527 , Duco , loctite spray adhesive, I could go on, but anyone can see if two unknown glues are actually a form Ambroid plus, are completely compatible when mixed together.
That should answer anyone who is wondering why they need to bother knowing all these Ambroidish glues instead of sticking with one. Well it should be occurring to some that there
is a advantage . Some of these are super sticky Contact cement , one is a " metal weld" putty for auto use , this means you can work on the perfect recipe for say strut mounting ,or a strong as hell but flexible landing gear formula. As I said I haven't really tested any combination in a systematic way yet , But you can find yourself making a thin solution with Sigment , then throwing a few shots of auto hood ornament cement for good measure. It is simply more fun to be blunt.
When you have what you think is a obvious clone of Ambroid, you will know when you spend a minute for the acetone test . If it passes then you have a substitute that you can get down the street. Beacon 527 is virtually the same as Sigment ,that's one I did test .
If you find a glue that has got that classic magic golden color , and it fails the acetone test
You will be sure that it won't be compatible, because when a sample fails , it doesn't mix with acetone at all , instead it clumps into a ball of useless HasMat goo.
This is what happened with me , you might have seen this glue at. Mikes , I thought it was Ambroid only because the tube has that cool serious vibe , there is one that is called " The Ultmate" with "unbelievably strong! " emblazoned in red on the package, it has a sister that
Is super quick drying. If anyone is like me and found yourself in the Snicker Doodle isle at
Michales looking at glue, because all the hobby shops closed forever, and even your defiant
"I'll be damned if going to be like some Crafter" couldn't fight the need for glue, well then you've seen this glue . It is the only kind there that isn't a "tacky modge podge " Well that glue died immediately in the acetone, Tragic , but what if there's another way?
This brings me to the final spin of the find the Ambroid of Old saga, A lot of seemingly perfect candidates fail , they die on the grill. But this one time when there is another side of the coin that's just as shiny.
There is another glue that makes up most of the acetone rejects, But this not a fault , These Glues can be thinned with M.E.K. ,they melt in the stuff just like the Ambroid stars.
They simply are based on Methyl Ethyl Ketone instead Acetone! They are easily found with a M.E.K. Test (Ambroid perishes just as gruesomely in mek) .
So that is my discovery , Ambroid is alive and well in dozens of variants that can be mixed into custom formulas , It is just as rich as the world of White Glue . But better , because there
is an alternate reality of M.E.K. Glues that has been there all along But no one knew . John
Dec 04, 2016, 11:05 AM
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Ambroid has only three organic solvents in it. They are ALL hygroscopic. Acetone and Isopropanol are two of them. I got the MSDS from the manufacturer of this Nitrocellulose cement. What makes Ambroid work so well in comparison to other solvent cements , on wood, is that it will absorb the water in wood and will therefore penetrate deeper than the others. Also it is strong, hard but not brittle. One irony of nitrocellulose is that it is in fact more flammable when dry than when it is in solvent form. The material solid, is in fact stored in Isopropanol to reduce its combustion properties. Go figure. This is the main reason the cement actually contains Isopropanol. The other sweet part is that it can be plasticized very easily with vegetable oils. At this point it shrinks a lot less and flows better. When I thin it out to make a coating, depending on what I am putting it on and how quickly I want it to dry and also how I am applying it, the main solvents I use are Acetone (never MEK), Glycol Ether, Butyl Alcohol and Toluene, This really reduces shrinkage and allows easy application even with an airbrush. Unfortunately, once you use Toluene and Butyl Alcohol, it becomes no longer hygroscopic (nether of these two solvents are) and can blush while drying. It also reduces the adhesive properties of the "dope" from its original state. For the average person, Acetone is going to be the only viable solvent for Nitrocellulose. The main difference between Nitrate and Butyrate dope is that Nitrate thinners contain Acetone and Butyrate thinners contain MEK. Unfortunately the average hardware store thinner contains both of these. Also Nitrate thinner contains Toluene while Butyrate contains Xylene. The HW store kind contains both plus petroleum distillates. This is a NO NO for any aviation grade dope thinner. This really reduces adhesive properties but aids in flow characteristics.
Last edited by Otakar; Dec 04, 2016 at 11:17 AM.
Dec 05, 2016, 01:06 PM
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Just FYI, a very good dispensing bottle for NC cement is an empty CA bottle. Just wash it out and than flush it with either Acetone or Nitro methane if you have it.

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