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Feb 28, 2014, 08:35 PM
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Build Log

My LOSI Trail Trekker 1/24 Rock Crawler


Here is a build/upgrade log of my LOSI Trail Trekker 1/24 Rock Crawler.


If you have arrived at this page via my BLOG, please click HERE to access the entire entry
Last edited by valiantGLX; Feb 28, 2014 at 08:55 PM.
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Feb 28, 2014, 08:36 PM
Technomancer
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Ok, so, here's my latest purchase, a pint sized thing of beauty that actually requires no introduction......

The LOSI Trail Trekker 1/24 Rock Crawler



I picked this little number up second hand for $80AUD, and though rough at the time I think you will agree that she has now scrubbed up a treat.



Initially I went for a flat out Aussie, ute muster-esque theme, complete with; 20c beadlocks, Southern Cross on the roof and Bundy Rum tonaeu cover. However after adding the light kit the Bundy tonaeu cover no longer fitted, so I opted for a slimmer Monster Energy Drink tonaeu cover.



While I have made my Trail Trekker aesthetically pleasing, there is plenty going on under the body: The modifications, where to start, where would you like me to start? I'll tell you what I'll work from the most expensive down to the free mods.

I call this the "Chrome Heart" mod, and its assembled of a handful of pieces that I have picked as being the only true worthwhile aluminium parts to get. I have selected these parts for their heatsinking properties. As we know the souped up brushed motor gets rather warm rather fast, so by adding these aluminium parts the heat is absorbed, dissipated and even transferred into the chassis.
  • Aluminium Slipper/Gear Cover (on it's way)
  • Aluminium Main Center Gear Case (installed)
  • Aluminium Cross-member/Skid Plate (installed)
  • Aluminium Spur Gear (installed 56t)
  • Brass Pinion (not ordered yet)















Next up I ordered a set of Interco Super Swampers, it was a toss up over these and the Mickey Thompsons, but I opted for the Super Swampers because they seem to have a more aggressive tread pattern. (ordered and on their way)





There are several perfectly fitting servos that suit the Trail Trekker, namely the Tower Pro MG90S, Hi-Tec HS65 MG & HB, but I opted for the Traxxas TRA2065 servo because it's waterproof and I found one for $9AUD on ebay. The TRA2065 accepts the stock servo saver perfectly, however I had to dremel the 4 screw holes into the servo ears.



I reworked the Hobby King Scale Car Light kit with some smaller LEDs including SMD LEDs in places and some skinnier gauge wire. I just need some small zip-ties to clean up the wires, other than that it's pretty much completed. The really cool thing is I have functioning indicators now, see the video below:



This mod cost me a whopping 90c. I strapped 3 20c (34.5g) pieces to the servo at the front, I then wedged 3 10c (17g approx) pieces in between the suspension link arm posts above the rear axle. This helps keep the wheels planted firmly on the ground.





Being slightly cheaper than the last mod, this one won't break the bank. I used 4x 20c pieces as beadlocks/wheel weights. These add 11.5g to each wheel.



Now we are finally in the realm of FREE modifications. I'll start by sharing my battery relocation mod. After switching to 2s 300mah Nano-Tech Lipos, I was fed up with constantly jamming them into the stock nimh position. Not only was this a PITA, it also left the battery sitting rather high up. My solution was to tuck it under the rear tray, nearly completely concealed by the chassis around it and my custom tonaeu cover. Yes it adds weight to the rear, but it's a small price to pay.









I repositioned the receiver platform towards the front, and flipped around then used the lower part of the stock battery holder to create another platform which was perfect for attaching my light controller to.

[IMG]Sorry no pic yet[/IMG]


The stock shocks work ok, but there's a few things you can do to get better performance. By removing the travel limiters on the piston shafts and positioning the shocks on the lower most holes you get a lot more articulation. I also removed the springs on my Trail Trekker because I like to tackle pretty hardcore rocks, by doing this I get an even lower CG and with my heavy axle load the wheels seem to find where they need to go for maximum grip over the roughest terrain.



Lastly I have switched the whole core of the vehicle 180* around, this inturn moves the motor from the rear to the front of the vehicle. This means more weight towards the front of the vehicle, and now the BLING* Bling* HR Slipper/Gear Cover can be clearly seen through the back of my Trail Trekker.



[IMG]I'll get this photo once my gear cover arrives[/IMG]



[IMG][/IMG]
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Last edited by valiantGLX; Mar 01, 2014 at 01:58 AM.
Mar 05, 2014, 09:15 AM
Registered User
Hi Valiant!

Very nice work!!!
I'm thinking to buy a Axial SCX10, but... many projects, no so much money...
Mar 06, 2014, 06:59 PM
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G'day Dan,

First off thanks mate! I would love a 1/10 crawler too but they are just so damn expensive, thats why I have been dabbling around with the micros.

If you like modding and tinkering, get a Sumo Crawler as they can be much more capable. If you just want to crawl or hit the trails get a trail trekker as they are pretty good straight from the box
Last edited by valiantGLX; Mar 06, 2014 at 07:45 PM.
Mar 14, 2014, 06:58 PM
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Awesome work Valiant! Does the gear cover help to heatsink as well? I plan on doing the trans gear case and the skid plate (I noticed the stock plate even gets pretty hot).

So far I've lowered the shocks to the lower mounting hole, flipped my shocks, removed the shock limiters, added 15g of weight (3 US nickels, I got body torque while steering with 4 nickels BTW) above the servo.

I still plan to relocate my battery (probably to rear axle) & maybe remove my esc/rx casing and heatshrink the electronics then mount it above the front axle (removing the 15g weight).

I need to cut my springs a little too to set up some droop (I'm a little hesitant, though I might just try to remove the springs first). Lowering the shock mounting position gave more articulation but definitely raised the cog a little too, so it tips over a little easier sometimes, I'm hoping adjusting length of my spring will help with this.

I tried to make some coin wheel weights similar to yours Valiant, mine were about 9g each, but my dang drill bit snapped. I might try to get some washers and make some for the inside beadlock too.

I haven't decided on tires yet.

Overall, I'm probably going to keep it as a trail truck instead of going exclusively rock crawler with it.. but I would sort of like the closest to the best of both worlds. Who knows, I might push it further towards a rock crawler, but the Trekker is more of a trail truck to begin with.
Last edited by finguz; Mar 14, 2014 at 07:05 PM.
Jan 20, 2015, 07:31 PM
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Hey Valiant, have you done anything to your trekker lately? Or even the sumo?

I've mostly been working on my 1/10 recently, but there's a couple things I've done to my trekker since I've got it.

I recently drilled new holes into the frame for the rear bumper to sit on top of the frame. It allows to run a few different styles of batteries mounted on the rear axle including those 300mah nanotechs, a dynamite 180 2s I have, and the stick pack micro nimh's (that fit the rally/sct 1/24's). Before the bumper would bottom out onto the battery. It works pretty good, at least the weight is down low. And it still provides rigidity to the frame.

I also removed the foams and trimmed every other lug in the tire tread to make it more aggressive. Trimming those lugs makes the tire overall a lot softer too, because they act like exterior ribbing for the rubber. At the same time I added BB weight to the wheels, 8g front & 5g rear... I'm still experimenting with tire weight, but some MRC tires I have I ran a little less weight in and it still worked pretty good so I'll probably just take out a couple BB's out of each. With the trekker tire trimmed up and foams removed it outperformed the MRC tires with just the foams removed.

Also I installed a 90T predator motor with a 10T brass pinion. Lots more torque, lower turn but also now the wheels are weighted so it kind of offset any longer run times I would have gotten.

I flipped the tranny/motor.

Everything else I've kept stock, the rx/esc case is only like 4g and adds some durability, as opposed to liquid electrical tape. I figured the LET probably weights something too, but after using LET on something else I might just do it eventually to the trekker esc too... a couple grams up that high is a lot. I could probably shave a gram off just getting rid of the screws that hold that rx/esc case together.

I have some baja claws to install, but I haven't messed with it yet. It almost seems like I need to trim the rubber beadlock part of it to get it to glue on better to the stock wheel. But either way, I'm waiting to get some pvc connectors so I can try the PVC beadlock mod. If it works, I can spend the money on tires instead of wheels .

I want some miniQLO tires too, but I would need wheel wideners too then, and that's getting a little carried away.. at least for now.

I've also thought of chopping my chassis down to match the mRC chassis a little more, but I need to figure out different body mounting at that point.
Last edited by finguz; Jan 20, 2015 at 07:44 PM.
Aug 18, 2015, 04:45 AM
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Sorry Finguz, I just saw your replies I'll read through them and get back to you ASAP

This is what I'm working on at the moment....




Honestly the best hundred bux I have ever spent on anything RC! Get one quick while they're still cheap
Last edited by valiantGLX; Aug 18, 2015 at 04:52 AM.
Aug 18, 2015, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finguz
Hey Valiant, have you done anything to your trekker lately? Or even the sumo?

I've mostly been working on my 1/10 recently, but there's a couple things I've done to my trekker since I've got it.

I recently drilled new holes into the frame for the rear bumper to sit on top of the frame. It allows to run a few different styles of batteries mounted on the rear axle including those 300mah nanotechs, a dynamite 180 2s I have, and the stick pack micro nimh's (that fit the rally/sct 1/24's). Before the bumper would bottom out onto the battery. It works pretty good, at least the weight is down low. And it still provides rigidity to the frame.

I also removed the foams and trimmed every other lug in the tire tread to make it more aggressive. Trimming those lugs makes the tire overall a lot softer too, because they act like exterior ribbing for the rubber. At the same time I added BB weight to the wheels, 8g front & 5g rear... I'm still experimenting with tire weight, but some MRC tires I have I ran a little less weight in and it still worked pretty good so I'll probably just take out a couple BB's out of each. With the trekker tire trimmed up and foams removed it outperformed the MRC tires with just the foams removed.

Also I installed a 90T predator motor with a 10T brass pinion. Lots more torque, lower turn but also now the wheels are weighted so it kind of offset any longer run times I would have gotten.

I flipped the tranny/motor.

Everything else I've kept stock, the rx/esc case is only like 4g and adds some durability, as opposed to liquid electrical tape. I figured the LET probably weights something too, but after using LET on something else I might just do it eventually to the trekker esc too... a couple grams up that high is a lot. I could probably shave a gram off just getting rid of the screws that hold that rx/esc case together.

I have some baja claws to install, but I haven't messed with it yet. It almost seems like I need to trim the rubber beadlock part of it to get it to glue on better to the stock wheel. But either way, I'm waiting to get some pvc connectors so I can try the PVC beadlock mod. If it works, I can spend the money on tires instead of wheels .

I want some miniQLO tires too, but I would need wheel wideners too then, and that's getting a little carried away.. at least for now.

I've also thought of chopping my chassis down to match the mRC chassis a little more, but I need to figure out different body mounting at that point.
Nah I haven't done anything with my micro crawlers in far too long now, since burning out my electronics I've just had them sitting in a box. I have new electronics for them, just gotta find the time to fix em up.

How about yourself? Any news from the western front? Did you get the PVC bead locks done?

Have you seen the HSP 1/24 crawlers on ebay? I'm thinking about adding one to the collection.
Nov 03, 2015, 09:20 PM
what goes up, must come down..
Following...!
Nov 08, 2015, 12:03 AM
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Hey Valiantglx, it's been a while. Sorry for my late response as well, I don't check in here as much as I used to, at all.

I watched on your youtube channel that you got that 6x6 HGP601. Nice! Have you broken anything or upgraded anything on it yet? Seems like a sweet little machine!

About the PVC beadlocks for the micro, I gave up, they kept pulling the bead. Maybe I made the beadlock too skinny, but they were a pain so I gave up and threw some BB's inside Mickey Thompsons and glued them to the stock rims.

I've done a couple other things to help capability, but recently I've thought about just chopping the front and rear of the chassis and being left with basically a MRC chassis... or maybe I should just buy the MRC chassis. Either way it should help get rid of some unnecessary weight. Other than that, it's a pretty capable rig anyway now.
Nov 09, 2015, 08:38 PM
what goes up, must come down..
Hey Valiant, did you use wheel spacers and if so where did you get yours from? I only have some from crawlerX and it says on their site they don't work with the Trekker and I even tried mine I had bought to mod my Sumo with and they don't add any more width to the wheel base! So if you used them, where did you get yours from???
Nov 20, 2015, 02:19 AM
Team Armattan
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After seeing your review i almost got the sumo. However, this little guy caught my eye while searching for 1/24 sized crawlers. Took four days shipped from u.s. warehouse. Very very satisfied with purchase. Beadlock wheels, very good grip (crawled over smooth cardboard laminate at around 50 degree angle. Very resilient (if turning wheels while entire vehicle is jammed plastic ball bearing give out first, very easy to pop back on. Best of all is the dual servos, with 4 different ways of turning the tires. Simply ecstatic with what a good purchase this was..

http://www.banggood.com/HBX-2098B-12...-p-932834.html

Cheers m8


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