its only too easy to get distracted... I started on a cutlass design, then built 3 aerobatic biplanes instead, then sketchup-ed a couple of twin boom models, the alleycat and vampire....lol

At least with these simple fun models , like your nutball, they can be made in an hour.. it always takes me longer to fit the gear in and set up the radio, rates and all, than it does to make the model...

Will get done before next Tues., our next indoor session.

My 16" brightly colored PP1 is still going superbly... It gets just the one flight per evening session , always the last one, for a final relaxed, "show off" flight...
It is so easy to fly at under walking speed in a tight area, doing 180 turns in a couple of feet, or giving it some power to loop and roll round the hall..
Its had numerous mid airs and crashes and because it bounces so well nothing gets broken or tatty...

apart from props...lol

edit dec11-2014
I managed to damage the front end when in a very hard crash the EPP got torn and the layers got split and all got cut up by the prop which then broke in collision with the concrete floor... UHU will put it right in a couple of minutes ready for the next session...
lol... I didn't want to do that... lol...

Here's my version of the PP1. The span is 20"and it's powered by a SK3 2118/2250 spinning a 6X4 on 2S 460. At 5.3 ounces RTF the wing loading is 2.6 oz. per. sq. ft. I built the center section flat to keep the parts count down for a low wing loading and slanted the tips for the dihedral effect.

The PP1 flies like a NutBall, but can do stuff it can't, like perfect axle rolls, fly inverted with ease and do perfect prop hanging torque rolls. I'll have to take it outdoors and really wring it out.

A wonderful rock steady design Dave, thanks for the fun.

Frank

I see you've made a few mods Frank....lol...
note
If you add some centre dihedral the basic stability is increased without loosing any of its abilities... and if you use the KFm2 wing you don't need any CF spars.. I just use some cheaper pallet strapping instead to strengthen the wings...

by going flat you have tested the extreme end of possible dihedral angles...
Ive got mine set from 20 degrees on the 24" outside model, down to about 12 for the indoor 16" version..
I cant tell any difference between them for chucking about, only its stability does alter slightly..
With dihedral its even stable when inverted...weird...

For a demo, the 16" can be trimmed to fly in consistent circles in our hall, hands off.. and that is what I do when I want to show a heli flier how easy model planes can be... it is funny, you should see their faces when you turn away and chat to them while the model flies round and round, or pass them the box and watch them panic...lol

weve a lot of heli fliers who miss out on flying when the plane session is on going, so I try to show them how easy, simple and cheap the models can be made... your nutball and my PP1 is what I tell them to have a go with... both being as simple as it gets...

My longest "hands off" was about 5mins before it got too close to the wall and needed correcting

I honestly don't see the merit in the KF airfoil for light slow flying indoor models. Plus, I'm 1 1/2 ounces lighter, so my PP1 floats light a butterfly and stings like a bee.

Davereap, You might have missed it in goldguy's coloring scheme. I think he's got the dihedral at the wingtips instead of the center. Keeping it similar to the nutball.

goldguy you are correct, the benefit of the KF on this type/shape of model is only in its strength.. two layers being a lot tougher

No I didn't miss it...lol..
He's made a good variation... going lighter is always beneficial for a floaty model, and having dihedral tips gets/keeps the stability with a flat central section.. that's why the nutball works so well...
My tips do more in keeping the wing flat and stiff than for anything else.. but I suspect they aid tracking and inverted stability...

I have found that while the KF section doesn't aid the slow flight on these shaped models it does increase its damage protection.. two layers being a lot tougher than the single layer..
So my EPP version can and does take hits very well..
The model itself will carry a lot of weight without showing much loss in performance.. I fly mine with a big 1000mA 2s lipo , for a long flight, and it goes just as well as it does with a lighter lipo..
You can see a difference but its not significant enough for me and I do get more fed up with having to change out the small lipos a few times in a 30min session...
I can fly a session on the big lipo...

Shooting limbo inverted is something I can't do with the NutBall, so I'm lovin' the PP1. It adds to the fun and ramps the flying up a notch.

I believe that more than anything, the shape of the wing platform is the most important aspect of this design. Although round rules, the part delta combines the best of the Pizza Box Flyer and the Simple Delta. Neither along can fly like the PP1, but married together they work excellent.

Oh, and a tad bit of NutBall too.

The nutball has been my "standard to equal" for a long while ... The PP1 worked although I had to go 4ch to achieve an improved roll while keeping all the nutballs great qualities.. however I like having both ailerons and rudder, it makes you use both sticks fully for better control..
all good practice..

Like the nutball my model had to be a very easy and cheap build... so keeping it simple , makes it possible for any beginner to planes to both build it and to fly it.. all quick and easy ..

that was a must it had to be easy in all ways..

I am pleased that you are enjoying it....

Other models do perform better, but they are all for more advanced/capable fliers
My latest 3D-biplane, which is heavily based on the crack pitts, does it all, but it is one that has to be constantly flown... so its not for relaxed flying, its not that difficult, but is not for beginners... whist the Nutball and PP1 can also be used as a trainer, them being so nice and stable

I've been flying the HK Reaktor for awhile. Full blown 3D cheap. I liked it so much I bought a spare.

I've had this thing in the back of my head about a big Simple Delta. I may make that a big PP1 now.

try what I did... 24"or there about, with a KFm2 ..and then overpower it.. I used an axi of about 150W... it goes very well...
.lol.
later in the thread you will find a big 30" version with 300+watts and using 2200 3s lipos its a great park flier

I got to fly it outdoors where there were no walls. Spent some time fine turning the CG and control throws. This thing rocks................love it!!

Let the others give it a go last night at indoor, everyone impressed, loads of fun

BUILD ONE!!!