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Oct 08, 2014, 03:06 AM
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that's what I do... I always mod, on purpose or by accident..
I like the box fuz..
at 19" it will go well outside and inside..

post some more, specs on the gear , AUW weight, etc
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Nov 13, 2014, 02:26 AM
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reporting after a few packs.


I got the pp1 in the air. Flew nice. I turned down the rates a little. Flies nice at speed, and slows to a walk for landing. I have a 2730-1700kv motor on 2s, and it goes vertical with no problems. All up weight is 220 grams, so not real lite for 19 inch width.

At the moment, I fly it like the simple delta. Only used the rudder for takeoff to counter prop torque.

it flies very smooth, and I enjoy it.

thanks for the design.
Last edited by mojoteri; Nov 13, 2014 at 02:33 AM.
Nov 13, 2014, 02:43 AM
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yes, I never thought, it is like a fatter simple delta, but with dihedral its also a lot more stable..

you can fly without the rudder and you can fly without the ailerons... but try both for slow and manoeuvrable its a lot of fun.. fly it like a nutball that's the best way
Last edited by davereap; May 26, 2015 at 11:17 AM.
Nov 13, 2014, 10:10 AM
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It loops in its length. That is like the nutball. It rolls better than my nutball. My pp1 has about 12 degrees of diehedral, and flys inverted better than the nutball. The nutball and sd are from 9mm epp with no leafing edge shaping, and not as fast. The sd has the same power/prop setup as the pp1. The nutball has a 1500 kv, and likes a 3 cell better. I took all 3 to the field, and ran a pack through each. At this point, it has moved ahead of the sd in preference. Maybe it is just the new plane feel, but I like the smoother flying of the pp1.

remember this is 2 inches shorter than your plans. It didnt seem to hurt it much. Just moved the cg some.

I ended up with the servos at the front of the plane. Im tempted to build one with a 50 gram motor and move the servos back a little. The only problem would be needing a 120 gram battery. At twice the weight, it would need to fly fast. Oh well, life is full of tradeoffs.
Nov 14, 2014, 03:52 AM
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The PP1 is my fall back model.. I always take it and I fly it when I want some more relaxed flying...its easy chucking it about... as you say its smooth...
It is especially good at high alpha manoeuvers.. nose up 180 degree turns in its own length and slow, slow flight in a small area
Made from EPP it has taken some major impacts with no damage..

the SD is a model that likes to go a bit faster, with less span it rolls faster, and its basically not as stable.. but its another good'n with an easy build..

Make a bigger version PP1.. I went to a 24" with 150W of power ..made out of 6mm depron..
The bigger one does it all the same, it just needs to be flown outside.. and the bigger version can carry a lot of weight...



The ultra light 16" span setup with the 2gm servos is still ok, although I think one of the ailerons needs some freeing up, the servo struggles on one side, its slow .. but that doesn't make it fly poorly,
the servos have stood up well to impacts, where bigger servos .. noticeably the hobbyking 3.7 have stripped their gears with just a small bump...
Last edited by davereap; Nov 14, 2014 at 03:58 AM.
Nov 14, 2014, 10:36 AM
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I have some mpf that would make a nice 24 incher. I'll check out the motor box, and see what would work. I also need to figure out how to get it in the car with all the other models I take to the field. I like building as much as flying, and have about 18 models in flying condition. I try and take 4 or 5 to the field when I can get out. The real limitation is where to keep them.

I've only done high alpha on landing. If I get a calmer day, I can try some. It is not one of my best skills. Lets just say a few nutballs died getting to where i am. Thats why the current nutball is epp with lots of carbon. With more experience now, an mof pp1 should survive for a season.
Nov 16, 2014, 01:50 AM
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I over powered my 24 with about a 150W motor... it goes very well.....lol...

High alpha is very easy on the PP1 because its dihedral keeps it so stable...in low power, slow flight , gently feed in elevator and gently increase the power to keep the model flying level..
the power is needed to give the lift instead of the wing.. as the nose gets higher more power is needed till finally you are in the hover.
but you only want the nose up at 45 or so degrees, so you juggle the elevator/elevons and power to keep it there, whist steering round on the rudder and elevons..
The Nutball is flown the same way..
both models can be turned through 180 in their own lengths, by getting the nose up, turning with hard rudder and increasing power to pull them through, accelerating and levelling as they get round.. its a cool way of turning.. I can fly almost up to a wall at speed then be going back the way I came in a flash...
I will do some more video next session to show the high alpha

I have exactly the same storage problems.. I love both building and flying but when I build one that's a keeper it means an old one has to be cleared away to make room
Last edited by davereap; Nov 16, 2014 at 02:04 AM.
Nov 16, 2014, 02:08 AM
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Inverted with the PP1... it shouldn't be so stable that way, but it is, and with the cog correct it is hands off stable either way up....weird or what?...

its not really surprising because thinking back, the paper model it was based on used to do the same thing, it would get in a good glide either way up, and stay there...
Nov 16, 2014, 12:46 PM
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Started a 24 incher


I agree about too many airplanes. I have the same problem. I've run out of wall/shelf space in the house. In the old days, this wasn't a problem as many planes only lasted one or two flights due to pilot errors. Things are a little better now.

Just a few pictures of the 24 incher. Material is a sheet of MPF.

Motor still being figured out.

I have the following candidates in the motor box:

2836 1100kv (hk rated at 300+ watts)
2826/6 2200kv (hk rated at 342 watts)
2836/9 950kv (hk rated at 240 watts)
2730 1500kv (hk rated at 80 watts)

I normally find hk optimistic by about 2X. At the moment, I am thinking the 2836/9 would work. It will give enough nose weight to achieve balance with the servos away from the leading edge

A few pictures of limited progress. I understand everyone has a favorite method, so please suggest yours, but understand I may also like mine
Last edited by mojoteri; Nov 16, 2014 at 02:31 PM.
Nov 17, 2014, 07:07 AM
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Looking fine...

the 2836/9 will be a bit much, but its always better to have too much power than too little.. the throttle is there to keep it in check...

I stuck a 150W Axi on mine and that was more than enough

moving the step back is good, I should have done that on my smaller versions, it does keep the rear end a bit stiffer

the only thing I do differently now is to keep the elevons cut square at the centre.. my fuse goes back to the rear of the wing and the fin and rudder are fitted on top..
It doesnt make any difference to its flight however.....
Last edited by davereap; Nov 19, 2014 at 04:05 AM.
Nov 19, 2014, 04:15 AM
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Ive now posted some revised drawings back in the thread, updating the lines to follow the latest builds... its only some slight changes, it will simplify the build..
Last edited by davereap; Nov 19, 2014 at 04:40 AM.
Nov 19, 2014, 10:07 AM
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Started mine...........................
Nov 19, 2014, 10:58 AM
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that's good I will look forward to your thoughts on this one...
Nov 25, 2014, 02:52 AM
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On the indoor model size , If you want extreme performance uprate the servos to 4.3 size and up the power plant to a z1705-14 hyperion motor ..it adds another 100gms to the max thrust

Ive replaced the 1811 with the 1705 on a couple of models, the extra weight is more than compensated for by the extra thrust... the downside is the cost of the hyperion motors

note 15gm 1700kv also work well on the 16" versions and at 17" I am now using the turnigy 2211-1700kv from hobbyking
Last edited by davereap; May 26, 2015 at 11:21 AM.
Nov 25, 2014, 04:27 AM
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Going with either the AX1806 or the SK3 2118. Got started, then too many interruptions came along.


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