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Old Feb 09, 2014, 09:48 PM
tchalfant is offline
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Yes. It will recognize loss of radio signal and put the sub into a pre-configured mode (like blow the ballast tanks).
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Old Feb 09, 2014, 10:07 PM
ThorDesign is offline
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That is a second release Thor Design SSN 637 Sturgeon class SSN.
Old Feb 09, 2014, 11:21 PM
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Matt, do you still have available your manual for the second release 688?
Cliff Hanger aka Ralph --- SSBN 598
Old Feb 10, 2014, 12:32 AM
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Ralph,

Sorry, I do not. Those were sent along with the molds when I sold the kit off. However, they were almost identical to the digital instructions for the PERMIT kit which I still sell. I do have an all new SSN 637 Sturgeon class kit due out the end of 2014. Whoever owned that boat before placed an LA prop on the kit. It is much too large for that boat and should be replaced with the proper screw! It will not handle correctly with that oversize screw on her.

I would not replace that WTC that boat came with. That version of the WTC 3.0 was one of the best made.

Leave it as is...go to ebay and buy a used 75 Mhz transmitter (cheap). Get the proper crystal and see how everything works. No need to re-invent the wheel here. As Andy said earlier, this appears to have been assembled by someone who knew what they were doing.

You may download the PERMIT instructions for free in .pdf format here:

http://www.precisionpattern.biz/subs...structions.pdf
Last edited by ThorDesign; Feb 10, 2014 at 12:38 AM.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 01:05 AM
redboat219 is offline
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Lucky bloke
Old Feb 10, 2014, 05:09 AM
Sub culture is offline
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Man from Atlantis
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WTC stands for Water Tight Cylinder (or Compartment).

Your background in CB repair may be an advantage when looking for a radio. 72mhz sets tend to be cheaper than 75mhz, so you can probably retune one.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 05:36 AM
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You also need to put on a new waterproof boot on the power switch on the front bulkhead.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 10:45 AM
Ronin055 is offline
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Ah, so its THIS again. . .
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Thanks for the intel guys.

The switch on the front, is actually a slider. That knob actually pulls out or pushes in to activate the electronics. Personally I would have put a water tight toggle, but thats me not the guy who built it. Im struggeling with wether or not ill replace that. Because honestly, I want to keep this original.

And now that Ive said I want to keep her original, I have to go sideways from that and ask if anyone runs Lipo in subs. My friend at the hobby shop seems to think its a bad idea. And I want to keep it original.

Oh ya, and two more questions.

How do I use the front schrader valve to equalize the pressure?

And where do I acquire an adapter to put the duster air into the copper cylinder?

Thanks guys.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 11:20 AM
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Front Schrader valve.

When you install the End caps on the cylinders it produces a slight internal pressure. This pressure pushes on the end caps and can if there is not a tight fit push the caps out. After installing the end caps, just push on the Schrader valve and release the internal pressure. It just takes a second or two and the inside pressure will equal the outside pressure securing the end caps from being pushed out.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 12:31 PM
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This is also a good way to check that everything is sealed up.
Give it a minute or so and then listen after you push the schrader in.
You should hear a short. Psssssssssss!
If not you may have a leak. Dave.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 02:08 PM
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Ah, so its THIS again. . .
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Awesome! You see that didn't even occur to me. I was thinking that I had to attach a small hand pump or something to it and suck a little pressure out of it to make it seal. I didn't even think about just regulating pressure.

Man this is getting closer and closer in my mind to being understood.

And some good news. I called my friend at the hobby shop, and he thinks he has the original radio laying around for the sub. hes not sure where, but he thinks he has it, or at least something in the dungeon that will work with it.

I feel like a little kid !!
Old Feb 10, 2014, 05:17 PM
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If you do not hear any sound when you put on the end cap or suspect a leak,
Remove the stem from the Schrader valve.
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Attach a vinyl hose
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and you can suck some air out using your mouth. Seal the hose with a clamp and look for water coming in anywhere. Sometimes it is hard to see. You can blow air in, BUT If you blow air in, hold on to the end caps to keep them from popping off. Look for any air bubbles escaping.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 06:09 PM
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Ah, so its THIS again. . .
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Thank you, that is a helpful tip. I was just thinking that I was going to unhook the linkage to the rudder and dive plane, and do a leak test in the sink or tub tonight.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 08:00 PM
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As redboat219 recommended, the boot over your toggle switch looks a little frail. When you replace the boot (if needed, I can not tell for certain, is it completely missing?), I like RTV rubber to seal the new boot at the bottom to the end cap, but a good marine silicon would work too. You can get the replacement boot at hardware stores or even Walmart. Do not test your system if the rubber is cracked, missing, or torn, water will get in through that.
Also before you test get some silicon grease on the seals, o-rings, and pushrods. You have beautiful sub there made by Matt and as Matt said a perfect wtc (water tight container or cylinder) to complement your sub. Do not rush and with care you will have a great sub. Really want to see you succeed.
Last edited by tchalfant; Feb 10, 2014 at 08:11 PM.
Old Feb 10, 2014, 09:04 PM
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Ronin055,

I'm sure you are picking up on the very steep learning curve. Most is common sense once you are exposed to what is happening and what has to happen.

After one sub you will understand the terminology and some of the different system associated with working subs. There are several. All different. All work just fine.

Looking at the list of responders, I will tell you without hesitation that some of the very best and some who pioneered these functional submarine systems are here.

I can only imagine that other pros in this hobby are watching. They are here as well. Just haven't had anything to add yet. It is a rather a small group of people who commit to submarine models and they all want to see new to subs be successful.

There are lots of answer once the questions are asked.

Keep going. Help is at hand if you needed it.
Ralph SSBN --- 598 (aka Cliff Hanger)


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