I am impressed, very nice. Never got into scale but always enjoy seeing them and the workmanship involved.

Michael, I have that Dalton 300 ML with a DA 200, and fly In Louisiana, and in the summer, temps are in 100 F during peak of summer, and my airplane's hottest temps are in 280 range. SO not bad at all. On another Dalton that I built, I did not use the plenum, but instead, did use the baffle plate, but a rear "wall" that separates the intake area. let me see if I can get a picture. But, my point being, with that set up, in the hottest day, one cylinder did get to 310 F. Which, I did not like. I prefer the plenum.

No question that the plenum approach is superior; even on cold days (had an adjustable cowl flap to throttle the outflow that, in turn limits the inflow. Never finished my auto-adjust bit before selling it.

IMHO, baffles are only a rough approach and work where temp extremes aren't an issue. I still recall doing a test flight for a chap who had a cooling problem, but I was heading on an extensive trip and figured that it could be managed safely. It did mean doing the run-up while on a fast taxi. 'Course, that was in my 'yute, not now.

Most folks think that the plenum must run hotter as it encloses so much of the cylinder head cooling fins, but, as you indicated, it is managing airflow (volume and velocity). I do like the photos of your birds; great going.

Michael

Originally Posted by orthobird

Michael, I have that Dalton 300 ML with a DA 200, and fly In Louisiana, and in the summer, temps are in 100 F during peak of summer, and my airplane's hottest temps are in 280 range. SO not bad at all. On another Dalton that I built, I did not use the plenum, but instead, did use the baffle plate, but a rear "wall" that separates the intake area. let me see if I can get a picture. But, my point being, with that set up, in the hottest day, one cylinder did get to 310 F. Which, I did not like. I prefer the plenum.

Does anyone know, if JETI USA or JETI worldwide, has a recommendation or anything in writing, on the recommendation for installation of 2 receivers, and how best to achieve maximal signal diversity and coverage.

I have looked and cannot find.


I imagine, that they(jeti engineers/designers) have looked into this and probably have done a great deal of testing, to determine the best way to install two receivers (4 antennas) and get best results. (with the CB 200/400 setup).

Anyone know about this?

thank you


Cam

PS, I have read the manual for the CB 200 and CB 400, and neither go into detail on how to position both receivers and distance recommendations between the two, etc...

Cam I have not seen anything really specific from Jeti about this but rules for 2.4 ghz and for most antenna installation are the same:

1) the "dead" receiving end of the 2.2 ghz antenna is dead on, the best is at 90 degrees i.e side ways. So with this in mind you want your antennas position so that never more than one will be pointing at you in any orientation.

2) keep them away from anything that makes "noise" such as ignition...

3) avoid having anything in the way of your reception such as carbon....

4) spread them as much as possible from each other.

Personnally I always have two antennas position in a basically 90 degree "V" on each side of the plane about the wing tube area. The actual point of the "V" would be outside of the bottom of the plane since they are far apart from each other on each side of the plane.

The other two are in the back fuse, as far as my arm can reach easily and where I can mount them, one pointing in the center up or down and the other pointing at the tail. It seems to work flawlessly so far.

Thank you Eric, this is what I thought, I appreciate you!

If I am storing a plane for a week in between flying sessions with a cb200 setup do I have to physically disconnect the batteries from the cb200? I am worried there may be a small draw from the batteries by the cb200 that would cause the batteries to go dead.

Rather ask than find out the hard way.

Scott

Unless you have an R3 as a remote switch connected to it, it will not drain anything when turned off.

I use Lipos, so I always take them out and put them to storage charge when putting away stuff. Not sure what other batteries need if left alone.

Originally Posted by Scott_S

If I am storing a plane for a week in between flying sessions with a cb200 setup do I have to physically disconnect the batteries from the cb200? I am worried there may be a small draw from the batteries by the cb200 that would cause the batteries to go dead.

Rather ask than find out the hard way.

Scott

My understanding is that there is always a small draw by the CB200 when turned off as it needs to watch the switch port. However, it is a very small draw and would probably be fine for a week. But, if you are using an RS3SW (or RSAT) as a remote switch, the draw is much higher as it needs to keep the switch RX powered.

What I do is have two leads from the MPX battery ports on the CB200 with Deans ultra male plugs at the other end. My batteries all have the matching Deans ultra female plugs. I route and place the batteries for easy disconnection and removal for charging.

...jim

Originally Posted by JimBrown

My understanding is that there is always a small draw by the CB200 when turned off as it needs to watch the switch port. However, it is a very small draw and would probably be fine for a week. But, if you are using an RS3SW (or RSAT) as a remote switch, the draw is much higher as it needs to keep the switch RX powered.

What I do is have two leads from the MPX battery ports on the CB200 with Deans ultra male plugs at the other end. My batteries all have the matching Deans ultra female plugs. I route and place the batteries for easy disconnection and removal for charging.

...jim

You are correct, there is a tiny amount of current consumed but I seem to recall it is in the order of 80 micro amps. Unless my math is wrong(and it may be) that amounts to about 4.8 milliamps per day or approximately 200 days to use 50% of a 2000mah receiver pack. I've left packs connected to a CB200 for about 9 months with little discharge noticed.. While it's always good to disconnect packs during long term storage it shouldn't be a problem for anything being flow on a regular basis. As others have mentioned this is only true when using 2 R3s. The R3/SW used as an RC switch draws dramatically more (20 mah) and must be disconnected daily..

Wayne

Jim you are right the magnetic switch does drain a very small current 80 uA which would take a very long time to drain any batteries.

The R3/RCSW drains 22 mA at all time so better disconnect then because it can drain over 500 mA in a day.

Edit: Guess I was 2 minutes too slow on that one

Anyone try to update the firmware on the cb200? I cannot seem to get them to connect even though I can updat other Jeti items.

Scott.

I got my Jeti DS 24 and really like it, but quite different from my JR 28X.


Anyone with good advice for a good setup for large scale warbirds with accessories like ignition, smoke and lights? What kind of switches to use?


I did plan with CB 200, two satellites and rc switch but not sure what's good and safe for ignition, smoke and lights

Any good setup that just works? Is CB 400 better for this kind of setup?

Any suggestions appreciated. 
Thanks Alf

Originally Posted by affas

I got my Jeti DS 24 and really like it, but quite different from my JR 28X.


Anyone with good advice for a good setup for large scale warbirds with accessories like ignition, smoke and lights? What kind of switches to use?


I did plan with CB 200, two satellites and rc switch but not sure what's good and safe for ignition, smoke and lights

Any good setup that just works? Is CB 400 better for this kind of setup?

Any suggestions appreciated. 
Thanks Alf

I use the Tech Aero IBEC for ignition power/kill in all my gas powered airplanes. Prety much everyone at my field does too and no one ever has the slightest problem with them. The Tech Aero unit has optical isolation betweenit self and the signal wire to the receiver and also extensive filtering on the power and ground lines. I've not heard of anyoone haveing any ignition related interfernce issues using a TechAero IBEC. It seems to be the "gold standard" for such devices but I'm sure there are others that work well to. Still for $45 shipped, it less than the price of a separate ignition battery and kill switch and no ignition battery to charge and since it's powered by the receiver if you have redundant receiver batteries then your ignition will remain powered as long as your receiver does.

As for smoke and lights, those should probably have their own battery if they draw significant current so I wouldn't expect them to be significant sources of interference.

As for switch selections, that is pretty subjective and you really just need to hold the transmitter and see which switches you can easily find without looking at the transmitter. I'd start with something as close to waht you are used to as possible and if that location has the wrong type of switch you can easily swap it out with a different switch type (2 position vs 3 position, etc).