Originally Posted by Mr.Atkins

I have that fuselage. What mods did you make?

This is a helpful tutorial. The one shown is for a 200 not the 200 srx so some things are a little different. if you have the srx you won't need to modify the top for the servo as in the video because the servo placement is different.

Blade 200s /200srx Jetranger fuselage installation (11 min 9 sec)

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Mr.Atkins

Thanks!

Have fun with it.

With the demise of the gear sets I finally decided to do the Servo upgrade. I used the original servo casing and modified it to take the Turnigy. All Ok
My heli has an upgraded motor the 1160H with a 10 tooth pinion. I felt I needed torque. Hence when I apply a lot of throttle it does tend to shake a bit.
I am after suggestions for the Gain Adjustment settings. With the Turnigy it really had the shakes. Via this forum the information seemed to be to reduce the Cyclic. I found I had to reduce the Filtering as well. I reduced the Cyclic to 10, Tail Rotor 112, Filtering 30 and the Motor 175. Does this seem correct?
It fly's Ok but is nowhere near as stable as it used to be. Any thoughts?? Thanks

Originally Posted by ssobol

A helicopter is a bunch of parts that are trying their best to all go in separate directions. A helicopter is also a device that has no inherent ability to fly. If you were to tow a real plane on a line behind a car, the plane would at some point fly by itself. If you tow a helicopter behind a car you are likely to end up with a pile of scrap metal.

Model helicopters are pretty much the same as a real helicopter in this regard. They are complicated precision mechanical devices that can require a lot of attention to work correctly. Basically the thing is not really meant to fly.

If you think the 200 is a pain, you should have seen what early RC helicopters were like. None of this electronic stuff. They had gas(nitro) engines, mechanical mixing, and if you where fortunate enough to have a gyro it consisted of a motor turning a couple of relatively heavy wheels (you had to wait for it to spin up before you took off). If you crashed it, or even landed hard you might spend weeks repairing it and tweaking it all up again. You could spend hours just getting the blades balanced correctly.

When you went to fly you took a lot of stuff with you. Fuel, a starter, a starter battery, tools, in addition to the heli and the radio. Bringing spare parts to the field wasn't really necessary because if you actually needed them you had a lot more work to do than could be done on the spot. Nowadays, you can have the heli in one hand, the radio in the other, and a spare battery in your pocket and you're all set.

Yeah, you can crash a 200. But you can also buy a part off the shelf, screw it on and be flying again in minutes. I'll take the 200 any day over what I used to do.

As someone once said....

"The thing is, helicopters are different from planes. An airplane by its nature wants to fly, and if not interfered with too strongly by unusual events or by a deliberately incompetent pilot, it will fly. A helicopter does not want to fly. It is maintained in the air by a variety of forces and controls working in opposition to each, and if there is any disturbance in this delicate balance the helicopter stops flying, immediately and disastrously. There is no such thing as a gliding helicopter.

That is why being a helicopter pilot is so different from being an airplane pilot, and why, in general airplane pilots are open, clear-eyed, buoyant extroverts, and helicopter pilots are brooders, introspective anticipators of trouble. They know if something bad has not happened, it is about to."

This post deserves a bump/resurrection.

Agreed
CCC

Amen.

I dusted off my SR X 200 but it seems to have esc issue. Even with high C batteries on every second flight or so mid flight it will lose a lot of power like it is hitting low voltage protection. The only way to resolve is land. Disconnect & re-connect the battery. Then when I take off all is fine.

1/ I've seen a few threads on using a separate opto esc on the tail. But I've no idea if this is to fix the same problem I have. Is it?

2/ Alternatively, has anyone tried installing another suppliers duel esc such as eachine e160. The reason I ask is the 230 S V2 esc is nearly a $100 AUD here and honestly is just too much to pay, while the eachine is less than $40

https://www.banggood.com/Eachine-E16...N&rmmds=search

I like this bird & I'd like to keep flying her.

I can't answer your ESC questions but .... High C batteries are not going to make much difference ..... what are the ages of your batteries and how do you maintain them between flights. Myself, I do not keep mine fully charge more than 8 to 12 hours before flying them (night before charging) and put them in storage at an 3.8V/cell storage voltage. As my OEM batteries are now about 7 years old, I still get OK flights (haven't put my 200 in the air in a year) but have a slightly reduced time, but I have retired a few of them due to accidents and replaced with other brands of batteries.

Batteries aren't the issue. I have new tattu 650's, 850's & GNB 550's at the moment.
Happens with new or old, high C or low C.

Tried converting to an XT30 including larger wires from the esc but made no difference.

Not relevant to your post but GNB's are my favorite as it is not the most powerful heli, keeping it light helps.

Originally Posted by SilverSport

I can't answer your ESC questions but .... High C batteries are not going to make much difference ..... what are the ages of your batteries and how do you maintain them between flights. Myself, I do not keep mine fully charge more than 8 to 12 hours before flying them (night before charging) and put them in storage at an 3.8V/cell storage voltage. As my OEM batteries are now about 7 years old, I still get OK flights (haven't put my 200 in the air in a year) but have a slightly reduced time, but I have retired a few of them due to accidents and replaced with other brands of batteries.

I'm not sure that the dual ESC will fix your problem. It certainly fixes the tail problem on these Heli's. It does however increase the weight factor quite a bit and motor/lift is affected.
I like you idea of the eachine ESC. Just had a look and might but 1 for a try. I'm no electronics expert so like you I hope somebody still reads this thread and may have a knowledgeable input.
We do pay for parts in WA.!! thats when they are available.

Thank you.

I am a heli dabbler at most. I fly fixed wing FPV, quads, & 3D foamies when I am sick of wearing goggles. I just bought an XK110 K110 BNF as it was less than an esc for the 200 SR X.

I think I will hang off on a replacement esc until I feel more confident on diagnosing my issue.

As you are in Perth, where do you fly? I could do with some company.

Originally Posted by Maturecruiser

I'm not sure that the dual ESC will fix your problem. It certainly fixes the tail problem on these Heli's. It does however increase the weight factor quite a bit and motor/lift is affected.
I like you idea of the eachine ESC. Just had a look and might but 1 for a try. I'm no electronics expert so like you I hope somebody still reads this thread and may have a knowledgeable input.
We do pay for parts in WA.!! thats when they are available.

I haven't flown mine in a long time but I had installed the recommended (somewhere here) inline capacitor and I think it solved my problems? Cheap/easy thing to try.

Thanks but I searched high & low for the mod but can't find it.

Any more clues?

Originally Posted by Brian VT

I haven't flown mine in a long time but I had installed the recommended (somewhere here) inline capacitor and I think it solved my problems? Cheap/easy thing to try.

Still haven't flown mine in a long time .... have only flown anything at the 2 clubs about 6 or 7 times since the germ invasion began.

Here is a link to a users 200 SRX thread in another forum that shows the mod with pix .... kind of hard to understand some of his slang ..... go there soon, you never know how long those 6 year old photobucket pix will stay online. https://www.rctech.net/forum/rc-flig...de-200srx.html

It's basically a cap with a servo plug on it to keep the Rx power level when the esc is not doing so. HKing used to sell one of these all made up ... like the big one he started with.