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Jan 09, 2014, 12:58 PM
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Prepping the Fiberglass for Paint


After the second coat of resin had cured the entire hull was wet sanded with 220 grit. Then a thin coat of red spot glazing putty was squeegeed onto the hull and allowed to dry, and then wet sanded. At this point the hull is basically ready for prime.
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Jan 09, 2014, 01:05 PM
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Installing the Prop Shaft and Rudder Bearing Tubes


Before the hull was primed I wanted to get the prop shaft and rudder bearing tubes installed and faired in. The tubes were alinged and tack glued in place, then faired with a slurry of West Systems Epoxy and Micro Balloons. The epoxy was applied with a syringe and smoothed out by smearing it around the perimeter. The slow curring epoxy flows nicely, and by doing it that way renders a near perfect fill with very little sanding required once it cures out.
Jan 09, 2014, 01:14 PM
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Installing the Rudder and Drive System Components


The rudder servo tray was set up and the servo installed per the instructions. The full size servo required a 3/32 shim to clear the bottom of the hull, but there's plenty of room, so no problems aroze from the mod. A smaller servo could be used, though it really isn't necessary.

The Suppo 2820/6 Outrunner motor has proven itself well in several other applications, so desided to go with one in this project too. The mounts were made up from .030 X 1/2 brass strap and the motor mounted in the stock location. Aproximately 1/4" needed to be removed from the mount height to lower the motor so it would align with the prop shaft. And with that, the drive system is all in.
Jan 09, 2014, 01:25 PM
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Working Up the Cockpit Components


The Instrument panel and front seat frame was built up per the instructions. Both mahogany parts had been pre-sealed with two coats of un-thinned West Systems resin and sanded smooth prior to assembly. Then once assembled a top coat of Spar Varnish was applied.

The seat cusions were cut from balsa and sanded to shape. Two coats of Shellac were applied to seal the cushions and make ready to prime.

The Steering Column was built up and the wheel painted red and silver. The floor boards were cut from the .040 styrene provided, painted flat black, buffed to a satin sheen, then bordered with aluminum duct tape.

And with that, the basic assemblie is finished, so now it's time to get things primed up and prepped for color.

PAT
Jan 09, 2014, 07:48 PM
mahoganyfan
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Great Job


Jan 15, 2014, 05:49 PM
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Getting Started on the Paint Work


Once the hull was sanded and cleaned up a heavy coat of sandable promer was sprayed on. The flaws were repaired and reprimed until the entire surface was ready for color. Then with a final wet sanding with 600 grit the hull was ready for color.

Meanwhile, the seat cusions were carved and sealed with 3 coats of Shelack and primed. The flaws were puttied up and reprimed, and are ready for color.
Jan 15, 2014, 05:53 PM
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Shooting the Colors


The entire hull was given a base coat of white. When dry, the water line and deck was masked. The red deck inly was sprayed, and when dry, masked off and the black shot on the sides. When dry, all the masking was removed.
Jan 15, 2014, 05:59 PM
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Decals and Clear Coat


With the colors on, the entire hull was color sanded with 1200 gritt to take the edges of the color mating lines. The decals were applied next, and finally the clear coat was sprayed.

Now, since the bottom was done with Rustolium Copper, I knew I'd never get away with a catalized clear coat without wrinkling the enamel, so the clear coat was applied using high gloss spar varnish. I've used this stuff before with terrific results, and this time was no exception. The only catch is, the adhesion is not the greatest on the Nasson lacquer colors. Under normal use it holds up just fine, but care must be taken when masking is required so's not to chip the surface with overly aggressive masking tape.
Jan 15, 2014, 06:05 PM
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Getting Started on the Deck Fittings


The Deck fittings were secured using double sided tape left over from a M.A.C.K. products boat kit. The stuff works great, and beats the daylights out of chasing the fittings all over the deck from sliding around on epoxy waiting for it to cure. And so far, not a single fitting stuck down with the tape has ever fallen off.

The flag and Jackstaffs were rigged per the instructions and fitted into their recepticles on the deck, but were not glued in. Sometimes removing them comes in handy, so the pins are simply slip fitted into the masts.

The rub rails were glued in place and "chromed" using aluminum duct tape, then the floor mats and gear shift lefer were glued in place. And with that, the only thing left to do is the windshield and exhaust stack, and then get the running gear hooked up and working.
Jan 15, 2014, 06:09 PM
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Fitting the Windshield


The double stick tape was also used to secure the windshield frames to the deck. The glass panels were cut from the kit provided acetate and glued in with Tacky Glue.
Jan 15, 2014, 06:12 PM
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Setting Up the Running Gear


The motor, ESC, and rudder servo were connected and test run, then the Rx was secured under the deck on vlecro. The battery tray was made up from light ply and the battery secuered on velcro as well. And with that, the Painted Racer is pretty well ready to go.
Jan 15, 2014, 06:17 PM
mahoganyfan
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Wow!


Can I use spar varnish as a gloss coat on any Rustoleum spray paint?If so I will try to replicate your color combo if you don't mind.The copper bottom is killer.The boat looks great.Were there any hangups for you on the build?I only slightly dove into our kit we have and I seem to be missing the propeller shaft that is threaded.
Jan 15, 2014, 06:32 PM
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A Few Observations


Now that the Racer is finished I can't wait to get her in the water for a test run. With a little luck, that'll happen this weekend, and will post up the running pics when it happens.

In all, the Racer was a terrific build, and I didn't find any problems with the kit along the way. The Instructions are complete and clear, the Detail Drawings provided give more then adequate reference to the areas that without them might be a bit confusing to a new, or low time builder.

The balsa planking went on well, and since there was no mahogany, sanding and surface prep was easy. And because the model is painted rather then a natural wood finish, the final surface prep for paint was a breeze. Painting can easily be done from the primer up with aerosol, so no specialized equipment is needed either.

Meanwhile, the scale color scheme was supposed to be red, white, and royal blue with a red bottom. However, there's no law against creativity, so you can pick your colors as desired. The kit also offers the option of mahogany planked transom, so if you haven't done that sort of thing before, it would be a terrific way to get you feet wet without having to deal with all the compound curves of a fully planked hull.

Taking all of that into consideration, the Painted Racer would be a perfect first Chris-Craft kit to learn the basics of building some of the more complex Dumas kits. Then from there the next logical step would be the 19' Racing Runabout -- it is mahogany planked, but the lines are straight with very few tight bends, so is easier then any of the others I've done. With those two under your belt, you'd be prepaired to build just about any of the Chris-Craft kits Dumas currently offers.

PAT
Jan 15, 2014, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by californiakid
Can I use spar varnish as a gloss coat on any Rustoleum spray paint?If so I will try to replicate your color combo if you don't mind.The copper bottom is killer.The boat looks great.Were there any hangups for you on the build?I only slightly dove into our kit we have and I seem to be missing the propeller shaft that is threaded.
Cal, Yes, you can apply spar varnish over any of the enamel base colors as long as you don't thin it with Lacquer thinner. For this one I used Bob Ross Oderless paint thinner made for thinning artists oils. And something else to consider as a "happy side effect" when using that thinner: it evaporates slowly, so the paint will remain thinner longer, thus flowing out to a very smooth finish. With Lacquer thinner, it leaches out quickly so the varnish tacks off a good bit quicker and doesn't dry nearly as smooth. Either way, you'll need to leave it alone for at least 24 hours to dry thoroughly.

Meanwhile, feel free to use that color combo. I really like balck hulls with copper bottoms, so figured since the CC was painted anyway it would be a great way to go.

Now that you mention it, my prop shaft wasn't threaded either, so I nicked the shaft in several places with a Dremmel cut-off wheel and glued the prop on with Gorilla Glue. I'm glad you brought that up, and I will mention it to the guys at Dumas next time we talk.

PAT
Jan 15, 2014, 07:00 PM
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Very nice. Mark Mason of Bootlegger fame had one painted yellow with a blue center plank and cover boards. I like you choice of colors. Great work as always.
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